川西12日游——独自旅行
您好，我们最近刚结束了为期12天的川西之旅。在计划行程时，除非参加旅行团，否则很难找到相关信息。所以我们还是带着一份最想去的地方的行程计划出发了。我们遇到的最大挑战是沟通，因为我们既不会说中文也不会说藏语。
第一天：成都到康定——我们提前预订了从成都新南门车站出发的巴士票，早上9点发车，单程票价135元。中途可以停下来吃午饭，非常方便。我们下午2点准时到达康定。但是……由于智拉姆旅舍附近道路封闭，我们花了超过一个小时才找到出租车前往旅舍。
第二天 康定——乘坐缆车登上帕奥玛山，并在那里度过了大部分时间。欣赏到了令人惊叹的美景，包括佛塔、登托寺和圆形剧场。
第三天，康定到塔公——我们通过智林旅舍预订了一辆私人出租车，每人只需50元人民币，车程两小时，真是太划算了！在网上找住宿很困难，所以到了之后，我们直接走进AKDB酒店，订了一间带独立卫生间的房间。价格有点贵，但是很暖和也很干净。注意：酒店里没有人会说英语。塔公寺离酒店很近，步行即可到达，非常壮观。
第四天：塔公——原本计划步行前往阿尼寺，但天气极其寒冷，所以我们在草原上漫步，并观看了一场僧侣的仪式。之后，我们乘坐出租车往返，单程花费50元人民币，并在寺院和尼姑庵中游览了数小时。康巴咖啡馆的Coco帮我们购买了第二天早上前往德格的巴士票——她非常热情，而且知识渊博。
第五天，从塔公到德格——我们早上8:30在主广场对面搭乘巴士，每人180元。这是一段非常漫长的10.5小时车程，途经高海拔山口、许多隧道，还停了好几次车。抵达德格后，我们在茶马古道巴士站旁的第一家酒店住了下来，房间宽敞温暖，带独立卫生间，每晚只需180元。酒店员工不会说英语，但年轻的工作人员非常努力地尝试用各种语言应用程序来理解我们。
第七天 德格——从天亮的那一刻起，我们就爱上了德格。我们步行游览了各个地方，最后来到了德格经文印刷寺，接下来的几天里，我们又去了好几次。我们结识了几个当地的孩子、一位祖母和几个青少年。虽然我们彼此不会说话，但我们通过手势交流。当我给他们看我们在新西兰的家乡和海滩的照片时，他们都惊叹不已。
第 8 天 Dege - 与第 7 天相同
第九天，从德格到甘孜——前一天预订了早上6点的巴士，每人67元。车程4.5小时，一路平安。扎楚萨玛旅舍（Dzachusama Hostel）是个很温馨的地方，我们住的是带独立卫浴的私人房间，每晚180元，食物和咖啡都很棒。我们步行往返镇上，欣赏着远处群山的景色。
Day 10 Ganzi- had planned a day trip to Yarchen Gar but was unable to find anyone to share taxi and very nervous about not being able to make the return trip so unfortunately missed out this trip.
Day 11 Ganzi to Danba - had prebooked tickets through hostel for 7am for Y104 each but the bus didn't leave until 9am due to winter timetable and was a very long trip. Again was just found a hotel on arrival and Haide Hotel was very comfortable for Y160 per night.
Day 12 Danba - took a taxi to Zhonglu village for Y100
Day 13 Danba to Chengdu - had prebooked tickets from the bus station and took the 8am bus back to Chengdu for Y135 each. An accident in one of the tunnels meant we arrived almost 4 hrs late, tired and hungry and was unable to truly appreciate the incredible scenery.
We found the travel fairly difficult due to lack of language but it is very possible to do this on your own with the help of some good language apps, the friendly hotels and guesthouse owners who tried their very best to help and some faith in yourself!
Dege is an amazing destination and so worth the long distances to reach it. I would go back in a heartbeat.
Glad that you enjoyed it. It is challenge when getting off the beaten path. Interesting info. I was planning a similar trip next month but decided to go in the fall next year instead for better weather.
Nice report, good information updates. Thanks for sharing. This is a very interesting part of China for those who want to see Tibetan culture at a reasonable price and without so many restrictions, compared to Tibet Autonomous Region. As evidenced by the OP's descriptions, the one thing you need is TIME. And also, a willingness to forego spiffy foreigner-oriented infrastructure (there isn't much in these parts) and to communicate using phrase apps and creativity (there isn't much English spoken either).
Thanks for the report. I conclude you had a great trip. Unfortunately you missed Yarchen Gar. And yes, you can do a trip like this if you're adventurous. Nobody speaking English is indeed the biggest problem you encounter in this region. The roads have become a lot better last years but you face some long drives. I traveled myself more times in the last years in this area. I explored the area with my own guide and driver with car. An advantage of this - beside my guide speaking Chinese, Tibetan and English - is that you are very flexible in your travel and can stop and go everywhere you want to go and see things. You can't do that when using public transport.
Thanks for this - I’m hoping to do something similar in oct
Going again to Kham in October?
wow, thanks for the info, it sounds awesome! I intend to visit moxi/Hailuogou- Kangding 1 day
3. From Kangding – Tagong 1 day
4. From Tagong – Danba 2 days
5. Danba - Mount Siguniang (stay in Rilong) 2 days
6. Rilong – Chengdu
Dege is simply too far away for my taste, it seems you had to take a taxi quite a lot. Hope to have an easier trip by avoiding Dege and Ganzi...
Thanks Daan and all the best for your upcoming trip.
We travelled almost entirely by public bus, only using taxis around the local towns.
I have to say that Dege and Ganzi were the standout highlights of our time in Sichuan. Both were absolutely incredible even though we were there in the beginning of the winter season which made the travel more difficult in this remote region. I highly recommend this for anyone who is excited by some adventurous travel.
Thank you for shared your experience and a lot of information.
How did you manage to pre-book the bus to Kangding? I'm arriving overnight from Auckland and want to get that 9am bus if possible - but can't figure a way to pre-book online from outside China?
Hi . Our Chengdu hostel booked the bus tickets to Kangding for a very small fee on the day before we travelled. Unless you are going to be there in the high season all tickets can just be bought the day prior to travel. In all other towns we just went to the local bus station and bought our own, using Google translate to help.
I don't know that you can book any buses online, only the train tickets.
Have a great time, it's such an amazing region.
