Live Your Best Lives
Although compared to a decade ago, the keywords of travel to France for many have gradually become: terrorist attacks, robberies, strikes, unrest... Some even consider visiting France a heroic act of directly attacking a terrorist lair. But in my mind, the keywords of France will always be "chanson, jazz, coffee, blues," "elegance, indulgence, playfulness, and sadness."
Sister Fubing enjoys writing travelogues that combine beauty and wisdom, so as usual, I'll be sharing my original Sunflower Guide. However, with the development of major travel websites today, I no longer feel the need for a non-expert like me to write detailed and comprehensive guides. Websites like Qyer and Mafengwo have already condensed and refined all the information you need, providing you with everything you need to know about your destination. Therefore, to keep this article short, I'll only share what I find useful, and won't be revisiting the various tips and help posts I've obtained from other sources.
This guide focuses on visiting Nice, the Dordogne Valley, and the Loire Valley in southern France. The Côte d'Azur's Mediterranean scenery, classic cities like Nice and Marseille, and a variety of charming Mediterranean towns are perfect for both leisurely vacations and leisurely strolls. You'll also find the Dordogne and Loire Valleys, exemplified by their numerous castles that once served as war fortresses or royal palaces.
Note: The content of this guide is original by Fubing, and all pictures are taken by Shanying. Please do not steal or reprint pictures without permission. Thank you for your attention!
The reason I highly recommend this book is that I fell hopelessly in love with the cover scene at first sight. However, after searching through the entire book and Baidu, I still couldn't find the place where the cover was taken. So Shanying, with his rough understanding of the French terrain, found the location of the photo on GOOGLE Maps based on the building features, the direction of the valley, the mountains and bridges in the distance, and added the Castelnaud Castle in the Dordogne Valley to our itinerary.
Compared to LP, in fact, we have read more books in the Travel Around the World series in the past two years. Although the best one I have read so far is the Swiss edition of Travel Around the World, it is still a good book for fully understanding a country and planning your route.
The above two books can help you have a comprehensive understanding of the destination country you are going to and help determine your itinerary.
If you are going to the southern coast and Provence, I recommend you read the following two books:
The Childhood Quartet is a classic autobiographical novel by Marcelo, which tells the various interesting stories of the author's childhood growing up in his hometown of Marseille, and is full of southern French style and nostalgia.
Peter Mayle's "Mountain Years" series: A Year in Provence, Return to Provence, Forever Provence
Highly recommended, at least I personally enjoyed it. This is actually a travelogue by Linda and her husband, but they seamlessly integrate French history into their descriptions of each attraction, using a wealth of historical details and scenes to enrich our understanding of art, culture, history, society, and even the Revolution. It's not boring at all, and after finishing it, I gained a comprehensive understanding of the major events in French history.
I love Nice, a Mediterranean coastal city. It's a slow-paced getaway, with a rich Mediterranean atmosphere in its old town. It also serves as a gateway to the iconic French Riviera destinations, including Cannes, Marseille, Monaco, and various Mediterranean towns like Eze. Driving from Nice to these cities and towns generally takes around an hour, making it very convenient. Nice also has a well-developed bus network, making it easy to reach any of these destinations.
The most economical way to get from Nice Airport to the city center is to take bus No. 23. However, bus No. 23 is not in the airport area, but on the street outside Terminal 1. Because it is just a bus passing by the airport, the airport is just one of the stops. So people like us who land at Terminal 2 need to take the free shuttle bus to Terminal 1 first, and then drag our luggage to the street to find bus No. 23. Although it only costs 1 euro, such a hassle does not conform to our rules for going out, so we don't consider it at all.
So we took the airport bus, which cost 6 euros per person. While the bus stops along the way, few people get on or off, making it almost indistinguishable from a direct bus. There are two bus routes: 98 and 99. Route 98 goes to the city center near Place Masséna, so those staying in the old town should take route 98. Route 99 goes to Nice Central Train Station. Our hotel was on Madison Avenue, just a 5-minute walk from the train station, so we took route 99.
Tickets for the airport bus can be purchased at the INFORMATION TICKET inside the airport, rather than on the bus.
You can also buy other Nice public transport cards at the airport. A 10-trip ticket is 10 euros and a one-day pass is 5 euros.
Nice is surrounded by mountains on three sides and faces the sea on one side, with a 7,500-meter coastline. These mountains protect Nice from the cold northerly winds, resulting in warm winters and cool summers. Its coastal location also ensures abundant sunshine and clear skies year-round. As a result, Nice is one of the warmest cities in mainland France, enjoying a pleasant year-round climate with warm winters and cool summers, a typical Mediterranean climate. Nice is a small city divided into the New Town and the Old Town, with the Old Town being even smaller. We lived in the very heart of the New Town, a ten-minute walk to Place Masséna and a fifteen-minute walk to the beach. Across Place Masséna is the Old Town, so in Nice, it doesn't matter which street you live on; everything is within easy walking distance.
I think the best way is to walk around. There are several check-in spots in Nice:
The Promenade des Anglais and the Bay of Angels
The entire Promenade des Anglais stretches along the Mediterranean coastline. The bay here is called the Bay of Angels, and it feels great to stroll along the seaside in the evening.
Place Massena and Old Town Nice
Massena is just a square, nothing special to see, but next to Massena Square you enter the old town of Nice. What I like most is the old town, it is ancient and warm, especially the night time is more charming.
Castle Hill
A high ground east of Nice, the main attraction is the panoramic view of Nice, especially the charming sea view of Angel Bay. There are also parks and squares on the top of the mountain.
Place Saleya
In the morning, this is a bustling flower market, and in the evening it turns into a food court with a strong urban atmosphere.
The Dordogne Valley was definitely the biggest surprise of our trip. This valley rarely appears in Chinese travelogues and guidebooks. I first encountered it while researching it, where it was described as the heart and soul of beautiful France. However, since our itinerary was already largely set, we hadn't yet made time to visit the Dordogne. But when we saw the cover of the 2015 edition of the LP and discovered that Castelnaud was located in the Dordogne Valley, we felt there was no reason to refuse. We adjusted our itinerary, cutting one day in Provence and one in Arles to focus on the Dordogne Valley. After driving over 500 kilometers from Avignon, we were delighted to discover that the Dordogne offered far more than just Castelnaud. The castles and towns along the valley were breathtakingly beautiful, each step a scene. The exquisite beauty was unparalleled, putting the old towns and villages of Nice and Provence in the shade. So, if you have the time, don't miss the Dordogne Valley, over 700 kilometers from Paris. Of course, the best way to explore this region is by car.
The Dordogne River region, located in southwestern France, boasts a mild climate, dense forests, vineyards, and fruit trees. Its beauty captivated many French people, earning it the nickname "French Tuscany." The four colors of green, white, purple, and black are often used to describe the Dordogne, which is divided into four parts by the Drôme, Dordogne, and Vésère rivers. Green evokes the forests and fields of the north; white represents the limestone valleys of the center; purple symbolizes the red wine-producing Bergerac region; and black represents the southeastern region's specialty, the delicious mushroom known as "a gram of black dew equals a gram of gold."
The Dordogne region is also one of the oldest inhabited regions in France. Humans have been living here for over 20,000 years, resulting in numerous caves and cave paintings that record the daily lives of the ancient people who once lived there.
The Dordogne region's ancient architecture is remarkably well-preserved, with many structures remaining largely unchanged since the Middle Ages. Romanesque architecture is predominant in this region, particularly in religious buildings. This isn't because the Dordogne wasn't inspired by the splendid culture of the Gothic and Renaissance periods; rather, for various reasons, the region was economically underdeveloped during these periods, making the enormous costs of rebuilding or renovating these ancient structures unaffordable. However, this shouldn't be a cause for regret. As the Chinese saying goes, "What goes around comes around." While the majestic Gothic and magnificent Renaissance architecture has been lost, these ancient Romanesque structures remain for today's people, preserving the architectural treasures of that era and fueling people's imaginations of the Middle Ages.
Compared with southern France and Provence, the Dordogne Valley in southwestern France is relatively inconvenient to reach. The best way to get there is by car. We did not do research on other means of transportation, but there are several cities along the Dordogne Valley that are connected to high-speed rail, such as SARLAT and Bordeaux. There should be high-speed rail lines from Paris to these cities, but to enter the real countryside and valley, you can only drive, because the essence of the Dordogne is still in the villages and caves.
As mentioned in the French edition of Travel Around the World, people who don't drive can choose "fransatem", a professional travel agency in southwest France. This agency has small bus tours departing from Toulouse, visiting the beautiful villages and caves in the Dordogne Valley. We did see a small group when we were at Castelnau Castle.
Aside from the journey to the Dordogne, it's recommended to spend at least two days in the Dordogne region. There are so many small towns, castles, and caves in the valley that it would be a shame to rush through them. We squeezed in a day to visit the Dordogne, so we only had one full day, which was a bit insufficient. In the end, we didn't even get to visit the decorative caves in the Vézère Valley.
castle
When it comes to ancient castles, most Chinese people think of the Loire Valley. However, the Dordogne Valley actually boasts far more castles than the Loire itself, reportedly boasting 1,200. Most of these were built during the long, turbulent era, beginning with the Hundred Years' War. They're more like abandoned fortresses than castles. Unlike the extravagant palaces and castles of the royal family and aristocracy in the Loire Valley, the castles of the Dordogne Valley are desolate and majestic, riddled with scars from war yet still imposing. We later traveled to the Loire Valley and visited Chenonceau Château, but we both preferred the castles along the Dordogne River.
Among the castles along the Dordogne Valley, the most famous are the Château de Beynac and the Château de Caetelnard.
Renowned for its best preservation, the Château de Beynac stands atop a cliff overlooking the Dordogne River. Originally built in the 12th century, it fell into ruin in the early 20th century. It was purchased by its current owner in 1961 and subsequently restored. Several films have been filmed here, most notably "Joan of Arc."
Another castle, Chateau de Caetelnard, is on the cover of the LP2015 edition that facilitated our trip to the Dordogne. During the Hundred Years' War, Chateau de Caetelnard and Chateau de Beynac were enemies. At that time, the Dordogne Valley was the border between England and France, and the two castles faced each other across the river and fought for a hundred years.
Ancient Town
Sarah
It should be a large city along the Dordogne River Valley, but we didn't go there. The description of Sala on Travel Around the World is that the entire city is an architectural museum, with streets that preserve buildings from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance, mixed with buildings throughout the 17th century.
Domme
We did not visit the larger 13th-century fortified city located on the hill.
Beybac and Cazenac
Located at the foot of Beynac Castle, there are many ancient stone houses on the slopes on both sides of the castle.
The village of La Roque-Gageac
The entire village is built on the mountain facing the Dordogne River, and the ancient and exquisite houses are like inlaid on the stone wall.
River Valley Boat Tour
The Dordogne River flows gently and calmly, making it a great choice for boating or a river cruise. For a more casual boat trip, take a large, nostalgic sightseeing boat down the river at La Roque-Gageac, returning to the foot of Castelnau Castle in about an hour. Many people also rent kayaks at La Roque-Gageac and enjoy a leisurely paddle along the river.
From the Dordogne Valley to the Loire Valley, we chose the free highway. We set off in the morning and arrived at Chenonceau Castle at around 2:00 p.m., which took a total of 5 hours, including the lunch time at the rest stop.
The Castle of Chenonceau (French: Château de Chenonceau) is located in the Loire River basin in the Indre-et-Loire department of France, near the small village of Chenonceaux. It is built on the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire River.
Chenonceau's two wings straddle the Château de Château de Champs-Elysées, a tributary of the Loire, connected by a five-arch covered bridge. Hence, it's often called the "Boat Moored on the Château de Champs-Elysées." Through the care of successive hostesses, Chenonceau has become the most exquisite, elegant, and romantic of all the castles in the Loire Valley. While lacking the grandeur and splendor of Chambord, its delicate tenderness, refined elegance, and rich feminine aura are unique to Chambord. This is why Chenonceau is often called the "Women's Castle."
The Loire Valley is home to numerous castles. Unlike the Dordogne Valley, these castles are mostly built for royalty and dignitaries. The most famous are Chenonceau, Chambord, and Amboise, all of which are incredibly luxurious and exquisite. However, we both felt that these castles were not particularly appealing. We felt that the castles of the Loire Valley were too delicate and formal compared to the stark grandeur of the Dordogne Valley castles. Furthermore, when it comes to river valleys, I personally don't think the Loire Valley can compare to the Dordogne. The Dordogne is winding and varied. Our drive along the Dordogne was filled with a dazzling array of forests, rivers, and small towns. Meanwhile, along the Loire Valley, the scenery along the valley was relatively monotonous.
We stayed in the small town of Chenonceau that night. The hotel was great. As mentioned earlier, the hotel’s restaurant has won a French gastronomy award. The French food is super delicious and reservations must be made in advance.
As usual, all hotel accommodation issues are handled by Booking. In fact, in recent years, every time I travel, I want to try other websites, but after getting used to one website, I am really too lazy to study the pages and payment methods of other websites.
B&Bs in France are pretty good. There are quite a lot of B&Bs in Nice and Provence on Airbnb. Since I booked early this time and the cancellation policy of the B&B is relatively strict, I didn’t consider it. But I actually like B&Bs very much. I still miss those country B&Bs in the Tuscan countryside of Italy.
During this trip to the south of France, we recommend the following two accommodations:
L'Oustal de Vézac in the Dordogne Valley
The best value B&B on this trip was in Vezac, in the Dordogne Valley. It's located on a large farmstead, and the hotel's pool overlooks Castelnaud Castle. It's only 80 euros a night. The breakfast was delicious and plentiful. The castle is a 5-minute drive away, and other towns in the valley are within a 10-minute drive.
Auberge du Bon Laboureur Chenonceaux next to the Château de Chenonceaux
The four-star hotel itself is very good, only a five-minute walk from Chenonceau Castle. The key is that the hotel’s own restaurant is a Michelin restaurant and has won the 2018 French Food Award. We had an authentic French meal, which was really delicious!
I feel compelled to say this to those considering a trip to France: Travel teaches us humility, an open mind, and the joy of accepting opportunities. The ever-changing scenery, the wondrous experiences, the unexpected companions, the unexpected surprises—everything that may unfold on a journey is a form of untold charm. France is beautiful and safe, and the French people are graceful, casual, and warmly welcoming. Don't be stingy with your steps; bring your soul with you, and you'll find that every day you spend in France is truly marvelous...
