Live Your Best Lives
This country was once one of the top ten tourist destinations of the year by Lonely Planet. However, before the visa exemption, only 10,000 Chinese tourists visited annually, seemingly shrouded in a veil of Arabian charm, mysterious and alluring. However, following a visit to China by its King Mohammed VI, this enigmatic country announced visa-free travel for Chinese citizens starting June 1, 2016.
I can’t explain why I like going to Morocco. My subconscious simply tells me that I want to step into the fairy tale of One Thousand and One Nights, grab a handful of sand from the Sahara described by Sanmao, and feel the blue city in my dreams. So, let’s just go!
People who have been to this country say the most challenging part is the Moroccan trap: guides scamming people, exorbitant prices, and petty theft. I was wary of all of this before I set out, and I was prepared to face it head-on.
On January 24, 2017, when I actually stood on that land and came into contact with the people of this country, I found that Moroccans also have a very nice side. When we were escaping on the train, they took the initiative to help us carry our 26-kilogram luggage up and down the stairs again and again. The temperature was 11 or 12 degrees Celsius, but they were sweating profusely from helping us carry our luggage. However, we were just foreign passers-by who passed by them at the train station.
At that time, I knew that all my concerns were unnecessary, and it was not as bad as everyone said. At least that was not all of her. Beauty and kindness could also happen here.
Morocco is a paradise for arty shopaholics, with all kinds of handmade camel hair, wool, and fiber woven rugs, leather bags, shoes, clothes, cushions, exquisite handicrafts, robes, plates, cups, and magic lamps, which makes you want to charter a plane and fly them all home. It’s a pity that I’m not rich 😭😭
>Languages: Arabic, French.
Currency: Dirham (DH). 1 DH = 0.7 RMB. Exchange shops are available at the airport and near tourist attractions. Euros are also accepted locally, with the typical exchange rate being 10 DH = 1 EUR.
> Time difference: Located in the zero time zone, China is eight hours ahead of Morocco.
> Religion: Mostly Muslim. (No pork.)
> Transportation: You can usually walk in the old city. Taxis are available in the new city and are very cheap, but drivers may charge random prices without using the meter, so negotiate a price in advance.
> Phone card: You'll see it after you get off the plane and go through customs to collect your luggage. Everyone says Morocco Telecom has a good signal. 200DH for 5GB of data and 200 minutes of talk time. The signal is spotty in the desert, with basic 3G speeds, no 4G, and often 2G.
Safety: It's quite safe, but walking through Fez's medina at night can still be nerve-wracking. Moroccans are simple but greedy, and some young people are cunning. Be wary of street scammers and shopkeepers who overcharge (just try to bargain down to a third of the price).
Flights: There are no direct domestic flights, and the shortest flight takes about 18 hours. There are connections via Dubai (Emirates), Abu Dhabi (Etihad), Doha (Qatar), Jeddah (Saudi Arabian Airlines), Paris (Air France), Rome (Ali Air), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), and Moscow (Aeroflot). Due to limited vacation time, I chose the Emirates Hong Kong-Casablanca round-trip.
Casablanca - Marrakech - Essaouira - Sahara - Fez - Chefchaouen - Tangier - Asilah - Casablanca
DAY1: Casablanca-Marrakech (stay in Marrakech)
DAY2: Marrakech (stay in Marrakech)
DAY3: Marrakech-Essaouira (stay in Essaouira)
DAY4: Essaouira-Sahara (Dades Valley)
DAY5: Sahara (stay in Sahara Desert)
DAY6: Sahara-Fez (stay in Fez)
DAY7: Fez (stay in Fez)
DAY8: Fez-Chefchaouen (dormitory Chefchaouen)
DAY9: Chefchaouen (dormitory Chefchaouen)
DAY10: Chefchaouen-Asilah (stay at Asilah)
DAY11: Asilah-Casablanca (stay in Casablanca)
DAY12: Casablanca-Hong Kong
The historic ancient city of Marrakech in Morocco is the third largest city in the country and the political center of the southern region. It is famous for its red city, so it is also called the Red City. It is one of the most important ancient capitals in Moroccan history and the capital of the Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz economic zone from central to southwestern Morocco.
Located in the southern part of the country, despite its location on the edge of the desert, Marrakech boasts a mild climate, lush forests, and abundant flowers and fruits. Famous for its numerous historical sites and tranquil gardens, it is known as the "Pearl of Southern Morocco." As a nomadic encampment and the capital of the southern region, Marrakech acts as a magnet for the inland, attracting vast camel caravans from the south. For these caravans, this oasis is the most beautiful city they have ever seen.
Today, Marrakech exudes a unique charm, attracting countless tourists seeking to explore its medieval legends and mysteries. On the gently sloping squares, belly dancers cast their glances around, veiled in ethereal veils, while Gnawa musicians perform a graceful backflip, brushing past a speeding scooter. The heat, dust, and mud-brick fortresses make Marrakech a uniquely Moroccan city.
This is the exchange point with the best exchange rate in Marrakech and even in Morocco.
In the early 20th century, renowned French designer Jacqueline Majorelle purchased this plot of land and designed it while she was living in Marrakech, back when Morocco was still a French protectorate. Initially, it was a simple palm field. Passionate about gardening, Majorelle, after building a studio and villa, began to create this Arabian Impressionist garden, incorporating her beloved Islamic style and tropical influences. Many years later, a chance visit to the garden inspired French fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent (yes, that's the beloved Yves Saint Laurent, founder of the iconic YSL brand). He and his wife purchased the garden in 1980 and gradually transformed it into the flourishing landscape we enjoy today.
After Yves Saint Laurent's death in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the Majorelle Gardens. The Marrakech Museum of Islamic Art is located in the Majorelle Gardens and houses Yves Saint Laurent's personal collection of North American textiles, as well as a large collection of ceramics, jewelry, and paintings.
Tips:
Jardin Majorelle opening hours
October to April: 8:00-17:30,
May to September: 8:00-18:00,
Tickets are 70DH, and children under 12 are free.
This seminary boasts a history of over 600 years and is the largest Quranic institution in North Africa. Its architectural style is remarkably symmetrical, and visitors are captivated by the grandeur and sophistication of Islamic architecture. The entrance to the seminary is inscribed with the words: "Whoever enters my gates, may you constantly transcend yourselves."
Tips:
Médersa Ben-Youssef
Year-round: 8:00-17:00
Ticket price: 20DH
Located in the Arab quarter of Marrakech, Djemaa El Fna is also known as the "Square that Never Sleeps." As a tourist attraction during the day, the square is bustling and bustling, but its true charm can only be seen after dusk.
Beyond the square, this area also serves as a large market, filled with countless food stalls, magicians, snake charmers, acrobats, and musicians. Enjoying a bowl of snail soup or a meal at one of the open-air food stalls is also a great option.
There are two main dishes in Morocco: tagine and couscous. Taji, as shown in the picture, is a stew of carrots, potatoes, chicken, beef, or lamb. Couscous, on the other hand, is a millet-based dish with chicken, beef, or lamb. Couscous is a must-eat for Muslims every Friday. Flatbread is a standard item provided free of charge in almost every restaurant.
The market next to the square is full of goods, and you wouldn’t feel strange if a flying carpet flew over your head at any time.
The Menara Gardens are located west of Marrakech, Morocco, at the gateway to the Atlas Mountains. They were built by the Almohad ruler Abd al-Mut'min in the 12th century (1130 AD). The name "Menara" comes from the small, green, pyramidal roofs of the buildings, known locally as menzeh. The pavilions within the Menara Gardens date back to the 16th century during the Saadian dynasty and were renovated in 1869. While the Menara Gardens aren't particularly impressive, they are ideal for picnics, strolls, and simply relaxing, making them a popular weekend destination for local families.
Tips:
Menara Gardens
Year-round: 8:00-18:00
Free admission
There are many cost-effective Riads here that will shock you. Riad refers to the traditional houses in Morocco, usually located in the old city of Medina.
The housekeeper would come before 8:30 every morning to prepare a hearty breakfast for us.
Essaouira is known as the Windy City of Africa, but I felt like I went to a fake Africa.
Essaouira is one of Morocco's most charming cities along the Atlantic coast, boasting a year-round pleasant climate, kindhearted residents, a rich cultural history, and numerous ancient buildings. Essaouira means "picturesque" in Arabic. While it may not boast Morocco's best beaches, it boasts the most renowned winds, earning it the reputation of "Africa's Windy City."
A vibrant intersection of diverse cultures, Essaouira possesses a unique charm: white and blue are the city's main colors. White seagulls soar freely, blue fishing boats ply the streets, fishermen return from the harbor with their catches at sunset, and fisherwomen sit by the sea, weaving nets in the breeze. Walking beneath thousands of seagulls, your chances of winning are a whopping 99 percent. Unfortunately, I'm in that 1 percent.
Tourists and groups of artists from all over the world strolled leisurely through the area. During afternoon tea, we saw a foreign artist wearing a Harbin Ice Sculpture Competition uniform. He overheard us talking and told us he had just come from Harbin, China, after the competition and was on vacation.
The picturesque castles and turrets, the maze-like local neighborhoods, the intricate alleys, the quiet squares and art workshops, the bustling docks, and the sunset known as the best in Morocco are all captivating. It's a pity that we were unlucky and didn't witness Morocco's best sunset, but that didn't affect my love for Essaouira.
It takes 4 hours to drive from Marrakech to Essaouira, and the "famous" attraction on the way is "Sheep Climbing Trees".
The hotel's exterior looks old, but the inside is a different world; the hotel is different from the usual riads in the Medina, and its interior decoration, furnishings and hotel management are quite mature.
We were even more surprised by the upgraded room with unbeatable sea view. Different from the sea view rooms on the island, this one had a turbulent, cool and shocking view.
Unbeatable sea view breakfast, the view alone is enough to fill you up😎
Essaouira is a bay city, and if you come all the way here, of course you have to taste the extremely cost-effective long-legged crabs and lobsters.
Even though the local cooking method is only grilling, it does not affect the taste of the lobster at all👍
Essaouira, I love you more than I thought ❤️
Every day I think of you, a grain of sand falls from the sky, and from then on the Sahara is formed! - Sanmao
Although I don’t have a Sanmao complex, I still came across the ocean to see you.
Desert tours are divided into individual tours and private tours. Individual tours cost 650-1000 DH per person, with 15 people sharing a minibus, and the accommodations are relatively poor. Private tours typically have 4-6 people, and are transported by off-road vehicle. Prices vary depending on the accommodations. We opted for a chartered vehicle, along with hotels and tents. The journey from Marrakech to the desert and finally to Fez takes at least three days. The scenery is all along the way until we reach the Sahara.
On the first day we crossed the High Atlas Mountains to Ait Benhaddou, passed through Ouarzazate, and stayed overnight in Dades Gorge.
The Dades River, originating in the High Atlas Mountains, winds southward, forming the Dades Gorge. The valley is lined with breathtaking mountains and rivers, creating breathtaking scenery. The Berbers who settled here built numerous kasbahs along the river. I highly recommend the Auberge Chez Pierre, a mountainside hotel with a beautiful setting. It was late and cold, so I didn't take any photos. I highly recommend it.
The section from Ouarzazate to Dades Gorge is known as the "Road of a Thousand Kasbahs." (Photo: Dades Gorge's famous winding road.)
The next day, we arrived at Merzouga via Todra Gorge, rode camels into the desert, and stayed overnight in a desert camp.
In the desert, in addition to camel riding, other entertainment activities include sandboarding and ATV driving.
Our camel driver, who has been driving camels in this desert since he was a child, can now speak fluent Arabic, Berber, Spanish, English, and simple Japanese. He proudly told me that he learned all this from tourists from all over the world every day.
With the sky as my blanket, the ground as my mat, my camera and my good friends as my companions, I spent most of that night in the Sahara watching the stars.
Meteors streak across the sky at a rapid speed, disappearing in a flash before they can be seen clearly. How magnificent!
A must-see on the way to the desert, the fortified village of Ait Ben Haddou is a representative ancient village of the Berber people in Morocco. Several famous Hollywood films, including the well-known "Game of Thrones," were filmed here, making it a must-see attraction on the way to the Sahara Desert.
Todra Gorge, a natural barrier against invasion, rises 3,200 feet into the mountains, forming a striking geological gorge. Just 10 meters wide and over 300 meters high, the gorge's floor is awash in rocky cliffs, with only a ray of sunlight reaching the valley floor. A tiny river flows through the valley. Looking up at the towering cliffs on either side, and a sliver of blue sky, one suddenly feels insignificant. As soon as you get off the bus, a group of children approach you, carrying camels woven from straw ropes, constantly exclaiming, "Camel, Camel, just a gift!" If you refuse, they'll pester you until you get on the bus. Once you do, they'll constantly demand money, essentially creating a dilemma.
There are tens of thousands of forked roads, but the final destination is One Thousand and One Nights.
The journey from the Sahara to Fez is a wonderful one, going through spring, summer, autumn and winter, with ever-changing scenery that is overwhelming.
The Yellow City - Fez is one of the four ancient cities in Morocco. The old city's Medina has more than 9,000 alleys, a place where even Google Maps is ineffective. Traveler rated it as one of the top 10 most romantic cities in the world, and Lonely Planet called it the easiest city to get lost in.
When walking through the alleys, the local Arabs will always greet you in Japanese, Korean, Chinese and English. Before coming here, I heard that Fez is the most deceptive city in Morocco.
Before arriving, I kept hearing the driver nagging us not to go out at night. However, my friend and I were so brave that we sneaked out. The two girls walked in the alleys of a foreign country, facing the bustling crowd. We were bombarded with all kinds of Japanese and Korean exchanges and conversations (locals can never tell the difference between Japanese, Korean and Chinese). We were imagining the driver's warnings in our minds, and every nerve in our bodies was involuntarily tense. We only walked to the end of the street, and finally returned to the hotel in shame.
Unlike other colleges in Morocco that are only responsible for preaching doctrine, it is also a mosque for public worship. The entire building is very exquisitely decorated, with beautiful and intricate stone carvings and wood carvings on the eaves and walls.
Tips:
Opening Hours:
9:00-18:00 every day, with changes on Fridays, usually closed from 12:00-13:00
Tickets: 20 dirhams per person
Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Karaweit Mosque and University, so you can only take a photo at the entrance.
The Blue Gate of Burilu is named after its blue mosaic tiles. The green on the back is "Islamic green." Stepping into the Blue Gate of Burilu is like walking through the alleys of One Thousand and One Nights.
Walking through Medina, I see Arabs coming towards me, donkeys pulling goods when I look back, and thousands of people getting lost around the corners... I wouldn't find it strange even if a flying carpet flew over my head.
Aladdin's magic lamp 💁
Chaouwara Tanneries
Leather factories are a major attraction in Fez, with Shuara Leather Workshop being the largest. Every visitor is given a bunch of mint leaves by the leather workers, the purpose of which will become clear once you reach the rooftop.
Among Fez's many handicrafts, leatherwork is arguably its most renowned. It's said that the unique leather vats in the Old City of Fez are a major reason for its World Heritage status. These vats are composed of hundreds of large stone mortars arranged in rows, each containing a variety of dyes extracted from natural plants. The leather is soaked in lime, cleaned with pigeon droppings and cow urine, and then dyed with plant-based dyes. It's said that these vats have remained unchanged for over 200 years. The mint leaves mentioned above are used to soothe visitors' sense of smell.
Under the scorching sun, dyers plunge into the vibrant dye vats, either placing whole pieces of hides or pulling out leather already soaked in the dye. This is the most pristine handicraft we've seen in any Moroccan city today. The leather factories in the old town are the most famous attractions in Fez, and indeed in all of Morocco, cited in many travel books as a symbol of Morocco. Traditional handcraftsmanship remains intact here, and only by experiencing it firsthand can you truly experience the full impact, from the visual to the olfactory.
The Royal Palace, located in the Imperial City, was built during the Merinid dynasty and covers 80 hectares, encompassing several palaces, a mosque, a seminary, and gardens. It still serves as the residence of the Moroccan royal family, with the king residing there for several weeks each year. Entry is prohibited, so you can only admire it from the entrance. The building is very new, so it seems that a visit here is sufficient.
The cemetery itself is nothing to see, but it is the best vantage point to appreciate the panoramic view of Fez.
The cemetery is located on a hill outside the city. We lingered there to capture panoramic views of Fez before nightfall. The driver and guide took the rest of us, who weren't taking photos, to Carrefour for supplies. The driver didn't come back to pick us up until 6:30. He kept telling us to get off the mountain, refusing to even venture up. When we met, he kept calling us crazy, saying they'd never dare to be up there so late. But as foreigners, we didn't really see the point of being crazy. Ignorance is not a crime, after all.
I forgot to charge the spare battery the night before, which resulted in my camera running out of battery and I couldn't take any photos of the night scene. This photo was taken by my colleague Rongrong Boss.
In Morocco, adults and children alike will sternly tell you "No photos" if you see a camera pointed at them. I heard they believe being photographed means their souls will be taken away, so they're reluctant to be photographed. But on the hill of tombs, we met a few children who were so excited to have us take pictures. We were flattered by this sudden change of pace.
Morocco's handmade ceramics are very exotic, but the craftsmanship is not delicate enough when viewed up close.
The famous mosaic is made by hand-carving patterns and patching pieces one by one.
old man wearing a pointed hat and robe
The Arabs have really taken the beauty of symmetry to the extreme, and are deeply obsessed with carvings.
There are three famous blue cities in the world: Santorini in Greece, Jodhpur in India and Chefchaouen in Morocco. This stop is one of the three blue cities - Chefchaouen.
Meknes
Roman ruins of Volubilis
From Fez to Chefchaouen, we will pass through Meknes and the Roman ruins of Volubilis. We will arrive in Chefchaouen in the evening.
Unlike Marrakech and Fez, the people in Chefchaouen are so simple and lovely.
Coming to Chefchaouen, it really feels like walking into a fairy tale world. Light blue, dark blue, sky blue, sea blue, cyan blue, tile blue, royal blue, purple blue... There is no blue that cannot be seen, only what you can imagine.
Tangier is located in northern Morocco, at the mouth of the Bay of Tangier on the Strait of Gibraltar. It only takes half an hour to get from Tangier to Tarifa in southern Spain by boat. We stopped in Tangier for three hours before heading to Asilah, 40 kilometers away.
This is the southwestern corner of the African continent. The lighthouse marks the boundary between the Atlantic Ocean on the left and the Mediterranean Sea on the right. With Africa at its back and Europe in front, you can see the two different colors of the Mediterranean and Atlantic waters meet here.
On the Atlantic coast lies a strange cave, known locally as the "Hercules Cave" or the "African Cave." While not particularly large, the entrance is strikingly similar to a map of Africa, even including the island of Madagascar. It was formed naturally by waves crashing against the rocks over thousands of years.
The coastal town of Asilah is also known as "Graffiti Town." It's said that in 1978, two well-known local artists, along with 11 friends from around the world, painted the walls of the town with murals, which now attract a large number of tourists.
I wanted to watch a spectacular sunset over the sea in this seaside town, but unfortunately, it was rainy in both seaside towns on this trip.
Casablanca, the final stop on our trip, is famous for its role in the film "Casablanca" and is Morocco's largest city. With its towering palm trees and the constant presence of sports cars, the city's initial impression is that it's a city of considerable wealth. Casablanca, more commonly known as Casa, was developed by France into a sprawling modern metropolis during Morocco's protectorate.
The remaining elements of Morocco's traditions, including the massive Hassan II Mosque, a modern marvel of religious architecture, undoubtedly serve as reminders of its glorious past, while the famous film and song of the same name have imprinted the city with a trademark of eternal love.
Anyone who's seen "Casablanca" will be familiar with Rick's Cafe, but it's actually a fake tourist attraction. While the movie tells the story of Casablanca, it was filmed entirely on set in Hollywood. The setting may be fake, but the sentiment is real. An elderly American woman came to the cafe and recreated it exactly like the movie.
The weather is not as expected, but we have to go and fly ✈️
The next destination is still unknown, because we still have the immediate life ahead of us. But isn’t the best state to end the immediate life and take poetry with us to the distant future?
