My childhood in Cangnan, Wenzhou, I fell in love with the mountains and the sea
Preface
What makes you fall in love with a city, a person, or a past event? When I was in Cangnan, I fell in love with this place just because of the mountains and the sea.
Some people have been asking where Cangnan is. Located at the southernmost tip of Zhejiang Province, it's a small county within Wenzhou City. It's named Cangnan because it's located south of Yucang Mountain. It's adjacent to Fuding City in Fujian Province and is known as the "Southern Gate" of Zhejiang.
Cangnan Transportation
Arrival from other places
high-speed rail
Cangnan is a county town located in Wenzhou City. It has a high-speed railway station, Cangnan Station. There are trains and high-speed trains from almost all over the country, which is very convenient.
airplane
Cangnan has a general airport, but it is mainly used for private aircraft. Wenzhou Longwan International Airport: From Wenzhou Airport, take the airport bus to Wenzhou South Railway Station, and then take the high-speed train to Cangnan Station.
Local transportation
Cangnan's scenic spots are relatively scattered. If a group of people are traveling together, you can rent a car, or it will be more convenient to travel by car. You will have plenty of time and don't have to rush.
Xiangdong Village
Xiangdong Village is located on the Jiangnan Plain, southeast of Cangnan County, Wenzhou City, Zhejiang Province. It is a village where the river flows quietly.
Next to Xiangdong Village in Cangnan lies Jingang River, where numerous tour boats are docked, waiting for tourists. Compared to the 35 yuan per person one-way ferry ticket to Gulangyu Island in Xiamen, here, a boat can seat eight people for just 50 yuan per hour, and that's for the entire boat.
The boatman said that in addition to tourists, many Cangnan locals also come here to take the boat, so the price is very affordable. The wooden structure is a bit wobbly when you get on the boat, so you must sit firmly and balance the weight on both sides.
Accommodation recommendations
Cangnan Wanshun Hotel
Address: No. 268-298, Station Avenue, Lingxi Town, Cangnan County, near Jianxing East Road.
Yanting
There is a seaside town called Yanting in Cangnan, Wenzhou. It faces the sea and has mild sunshine. There is a tourist attraction called Golden Sand Beach in the town, and the seafood here is particularly famous.
Yanting's golden sand beach is flanked by mountains, forming a vast expanse. The sea stretches as far as the eye can see. Besides its seafood, this place is also known as the "Chinese version of the Maldives." Nearby, there's an island that, viewed from above, resembles a heart dropped into the sea. This "heart" island is currently completely undeveloped and uninhabited, its current form shaped by the constant erosion of the natural sea.
Golden Beach Bathing Beach
The best beach in Yanting, the favorite beach of locals. The key is that there is no entrance fee here, the beach is open to the public 24 hours a day. You can take a bus to Yanting Town and walk to the Golden Beach.
The first meal in Cangnan is a seafood feast. Enjoy authentic Cangnan seafood at Yanting. Recommended dishes include: swimming crab, conch platter, fish cakes, dried fish platter, fried rice cake with river crab, dried eel, fried pomfret, and fish balls in clear soup.
Accommodation recommendations
I stayed at Cangnan Suwanshun Hotel that night, one of the more famous hotels in the area. The room was stylish and spacious, with a soft carpet on the floor. I stayed in a standard room, which was bigger than I expected, with a separate computer desk and a chair for resting.
Address: No. 268-298, Station Avenue, Lingxi Town, Cangnan County, near Jianxing East Road.
Price: From ¥418
Lanbutou Village
As soon as you enter the village of Langbutou, you can feel the strong atmosphere of life. A child is reading a book and watching the shop in front of his own shop.
The paths in the village are mostly paved with large cobblestones, which are said to improve blood circulation. There's a stream next to the village, where you can have water fights and play in the summer.
After crossing the long bridge pier and walking forward for about 100 meters, you will find the Xie family residence in Lanbutou. It is said that the first group to move to Lanbutou Village was the Xie family, followed by the Lai family... Gradually, they intermarried and developed into the hardworking and simple "Lianbu people" today.
The Xie Family Residence in Langbutou faces south and is a three-courtyard wooden structure. The eaves, columns, chess pieces, screen windows and other components of the residence are exquisitely carved. It is a representative work of residential architecture in southern Zhejiang and eastern Fujian during the Qing Dynasty.
Wanyao Ancient Village
Wanyao Ancient Village is an ancient village famous for its Wanyao. It is located in Qiaodun Town, Cangnan County. It was originally called Jiaotan Wanyao. Later, it was renamed Wanyao because immigrants from Fujian moved here.
Wanyao Ancient Village is located halfway up the mountain. You need to walk up the mountain. The long stone road extends to the innermost part of the village.
The aerial footage shows the ancient village of Wanyao, with old houses stacked up along the slope. There are also houses and temples from the Ming and Qing dynasties preserved here.
The village still maintains the tradition of making bowl kilns. First, clay is placed in a rotating machine. Masters use their exquisite skills to create a bowl in just a few minutes on a high-speed rotating turntable. Visitors to this area can observe the kiln production process and even take one home.
Water pestles are important facilities used in the porcelain-making process of Wanyao Ancient Village, which utilize water power to pound clay. At its peak, there were more than 20 water pestles in Wanyao Ancient Village.
There is also an ancient stage in the village, a wooden structure that is very well preserved. It has four corner pillars, a square plan, and a back building.
Charcoal Mooncakes
You've seen all sorts of mooncakes, but have you ever seen mooncakes made with charcoal? Put the shaped mooncakes into a pot, then put it into a charcoal hot pot and bake for about an hour. The mooncakes made in this way are really delicious.
【Ticket】: Free
Getting There: From Cangnan Railway Station, take bus No. 18 to Lingxi Station (2 yuan, about 15 yuan by taxi). Then, take the Lingxi-Qiaodun Town bus (5 yuan). From Qiaodun Town, transfer to the Juxi bus (5 yuan). The bus stops at Wanyao. These buses run frequently, making transfers convenient. Take the bus to Dayuanba Village Station, which is within walking distance.
Yucang Mountain
People often ask me where to go to Cangnan, Wenzhou, to see the best and most beautiful sunsets. Without hesitation, I will tell you: Yucang Mountain in Cangnan.
Yucang Mountain, formerly known as Baiyun Mountain, is also called Bamian Mountain because of its eight-sided appearance. It's located in a national forest park in Wenzhou, Zhejiang Province, 20 kilometers northwest of Cangnan County. The rocks on the mountain are unique, appearing to have been carved, large and rounded.
Yucang Mountain, Wenzhou's highest peak, stands at 921 meters above sea level. The hike up takes about 45 minutes, passing through a steep section called Haohan Motianling. There are boulders several meters long that slope up at a 35-degree angle, and only chains are available for you to pull on as you ascend. The mountain is infested with mosquitoes, so be sure to pack some mosquito repellent if you want to watch the sunset. Once you reach the summit, you'll be treated to breathtaking views of the setting sun, the forest, the park, and the steep, precipitous rocks.
Note: Don’t go back too late after watching the sunset. It takes about half an hour to go down the mountain. When it gets dark, the road is not easy to walk on.
transportation
Train: Take bus No. 18 from Hangzhou City Railway Station or Hangzhou South Railway Station to Cangnan Railway Station and get off at Lingxi Town Passenger Station, then transfer to Qiaodun to reach Yucang Mountain.
Car: Depart from Hangzhou South Bus Station to Cangnan Bus Station and then take a bus or taxi to the scenic area.
Self-driving: From Hangzhou, take the Qiaodun Guanmei exit of the highway, and then proceed 6 kilometers along National Highway 104 and take the right exit to reach Yucang Mountain.
Fudewan Old Street
Fudewan Village boasts an old street with a history of over 300 years. Blessed with a constant stream of pedestrians daily, it was once the most prosperous spot in Fanshan. This quaint and charming street, built along the hillside, is approximately 100 meters long and 3 meters wide. The winding stone ridge forms the street's main market. With each step up the mountain, the market rises a level, creating a nearly 10-meter vertical drop between its highest and lowest points.
As Fude Bay Village became more and more famous, more and more people came to visit. The original residents of Fude Bay also saw business opportunities. They actively responded to the government's call and renovated the dilapidated old houses.
Dailing
In Cangnan County, Wenzhou City, Zhejiang Province, there's a small village called Dailing, where everyone, young and old, is She. The She Ethnic Culture Park showcases their traditional culture, including bamboo pole dances, wedding ceremonies, and traditional clothing.
Bamboo pole dance is the most basic dance of ethnic minorities. A few bamboo poles can be used to perform many different dances. It is said that if you want to marry a She girl, it is essential to be able to dance the bamboo pole dance skillfully.
She ethnic group wedding customs
In Cangnan's Dailing Village, the traditional She ethnic group wedding customs are still preserved. As the couple sits in the bridal sedan chair, gongs and drums beat, a long procession forms along the street.
She ethnic group weddings are characterized by a grand procession. The sedan chair requires at least four people: two in front and two behind, making it wobbly as it moves. Upon reaching its destination, the sedan chair tilts forward, and the groom, holding the bride's hand, walks toward the ceremony hall. Under the master of ceremonies' guidance, the couple bows first to heaven and earth, then to their parents, and finally to each other.
It is said that the She people have always married only one person in their lifetime and practiced monogamy. Women generally do not marry Han people, otherwise they will be criticized by their family, but men can marry Han women.
The headdresses of She ethnic group brides are all made of pure silver, and they wear dark red traditional She ethnic group wedding dresses, which are full of festive atmosphere.
ps: You can experience wedding activities in the She Nationality Culture Park. Visitors can play the role of a bride or groom. I recommend you to try it.
Palm Cove
Cangnan Palm Bay is located in Zonglitou Village, Chixi Town, Cangnan County, Wenzhou City, Zhejiang Province. Palm Bay is about 50 kilometers away from the county seat. Not many people know about this place, perhaps because it is too remote, or perhaps because it has not yet been developed.
The scenic area is currently closed, so you can enter without a ticket. A 10-minute walk from the entrance takes you to the summit observation deck, offering panoramic views of the endless ocean. Free from industrial pollution and the hustle and bustle of the city, it's a perfect getaway. Hikers can also use this area as a camping base, pitching a tent at the summit observation deck for the night.
transportation
By car: Exit the Guanmei exit on the G15 Shenhai Expressway and continue straight along Provincial Highway S232 toward Mazhan, then Yuliao. Pass the Dingkui Tunnel and turn left at the Wucheng intersection. Follow the Longkui Line toward Cixi, and you'll reach Zonglitou Village (Zonglongwan) approximately 9 kilometers away. Exit the Xiaojiangkou exit on the G15 Shenhai Expressway and follow Century Avenue and Longjin Avenue to Jinxiang, then turn onto the Longkui Line along the Southern Zhejiang Golden Coastline to Chixi. Continue driving toward Yuliao for approximately 7 kilometers, and you'll reach Zonglitou Village (Zonglongwan).
Bus: Get off at Cangnan Railway Station, take the bus from the station to Lingxi Bus Station, get off at Lingxi Bus Station and transfer to the bus to Chixi, get off at Zonglitou Village.
Conclusion
The three-day trip to Cangnan took us across mountains and seas, as well as through crowds of people. I fell in love with the mountains and seas of Cangnan.
