The 1001st Little Dream | 2019-12-13 | 49700

A 3-Day Guide to Lishui's Off-the-beaten-path Destinations: Songyang and Xiandu

Preface

The world is full of beautiful mountains and rivers, streams, trees and stones, valley terraces, and forest B&Bs. Watch the clouds roll by on the top of the mountain, and watch the sunrise over the clouds. Listen to the sound of the wind blowing through the mountains and forests, and feel the cool breeze. Ride in the tea garden and harvest the tranquility of autumn. Find the time-honored noodle shops in the Ming and Qing Old Street. Harvest the golden autumn in the clouds and terraces... This is a place far away from the hustle and bustle. Nature has given it tranquility and peace. Every time I set foot on this land, it is the same as the first time I saw it. Facing its tranquility and its magnificence, I just listen and can't say anything.

Songyang

Songyangcheck the details

Songyang County, located in the mountainous southwestern Zhejiang province, boasts a history of over 1,800 years and is the oldest established county in Lishui City. The county boasts "eight mountains, one river, and one part farmland." The central Songgu Plain is the largest mountain plain in southwestern Zhejiang and is known as the "granary of Chuzhou." Songyang is a provincial-level historical and cultural city, having historically served as the economic and cultural center of Chuzhou. It boasts numerous cultural relics and historical sites, including the Yanqing Temple Pagoda, known as the "First Pagoda in Zhejiang," and the Songyang Gaoqiang Opera, a national intangible cultural heritage and a "living fossil of opera." Other historical sites include the Shicang Ancient Residential Complex, the Huang Family Courtyard, the Ming and Qing Dynasty neighborhoods, and the Brothers Jinshi Memorial Archway.

Recommended month: All seasons

5688 recommendations, 4748 visits

Chenjiapu Village

This quaint village in Songyang, hailed as "the last secret of Jiangnan" and "a specimen of a county in classical China," would likely have been forgotten if it weren't for a chance encounter with a National Geographic magazine. The well-organized houses, mud-built walls, and rubble-covered eaves give it a secluded and isolated feel from afar.

At the foot of Chenjiapu is a village called Zhuanghe, further down is Xikeng Village, and further down is Xiabao Village. Each village has its own scenery, and the layered scenery stretches from the bottom of the canyon to the top.

The stepped ancient village is an architectural wonder of Songyang Village. The beautiful winding mountain road extends all the way to the top of the mountain, and then you reach Chenjiapu Village, a traditional cliff-dwelling village built on a cliff.

The red and black tiles are covered with a variety of colors such as yellow, dark brown, cyan, red, black, and blue-gray, forming a colorful puzzle that has a strong visual impact when viewed from a distance.

The houses here are old but not dilapidated. Dozens of them, constructed from stone, wood, mud, and brick, cleverly utilize the topography and rock structure, extending down the cliffs and slopes, from mid-mountain to the foot. Stone platforms support the houses, creating a village on the cliffs. The seemingly dilapidated houses exude a sense of refinement, a marvel.

Pioneer Bookstore

Four years ago, I came across Pioneer Bookstore for the first time when I went to Nanjing. Four years later, I encountered it for the second time in Songyang. You are still very literary, still very comfortable, and still the white moonlight in my heart.

This is another local masterpiece by the famous architect Zhang Lei following the Yunxi Library project in Daijiashan, Tonglu - the "Chenjiapu Common People's Bookstore" on the cliff.

Its size is not reduced by its location on the top of a mountain. It is fully equipped with all the facilities that a big city should have. There was a power outage on the day I arrived, but the sunshine was bright and it did not affect the people who came here at all. There are all kinds of items here, and the fresh and literary style hits you in the face. There are several shelves full of books, which fills my heart at once.

Everyone who comes here wants to be a writer. In the afternoon deep in the mountains, with a pot of tea and a book, they can spend some warm time reading. Put down your electronic devices, feel the warmth of the paper book, and feel the rustling sound of your fingers sliding across the paper.

Here I feel like I have walked into the clouds, into an aerial academy. It has an ethereal beauty. If I am not in a hurry, I would like to stay here for a few days, let myself walk into the mountains and let my soul be baptized.

Stray Birds

Before I went to Fei Niao Ji, I had heard of it for a long time and had seen its promotion online. When I first saw it, I thought: What a magical place this is! I really want to own it. It actually has a more famous name: Miss Leila's House.

The exterior structure of the house is consistent with the local houses, but it is different. The yellow mud exterior wall and the seemingly cracked wall have a sense of vicissitudes, but it does not lose its beauty. Entering the interior, I immediately want to have a house in the mountains, where I can stay quietly from sunrise to sunset.

The light colors and industrial-style interior design create a light and elegant atmosphere, bringing a sense of tranquility. If it rains in the mountains, brew a pot of green tea, watch the clouds and mist swirl outside the window, and the raindrops fall to the ground. At this moment, your heart returns to nature.

Ming and Qing Dynasty Ancient Street

Songyang's Old Street is also known as Nanzhi Street. It is located at the south gate of the small town. The small town has a history and cultural background of 1,800 years. When you enter from the entrance, you feel that you have come to the wrong place. It does not seem to be as "old" as you imagined. But when you go further in, it is another scene. The deeper you go, the more surprises you will find. The preservation of the old street is an index. Its peaceful ancient charm is not the luxuriously paved horse-head walls, and its atmosphere of fireworks is not the crowded shops.

There is no serious commercial atmosphere. After get off work, local residents ride electric bikes through the streets. It is a natural and lifelike scene. Neighbors greet each other, and the smiles on everyone's faces are natural and friendly.

In almost all Songyang travel guides, the water-pulled noodles at "Baixian Noodle House" on Qingming Old Street are mentioned. It has also been featured on CCTV and is an authentic internet-famous noodle house.

There are a few old wooden chairs, old furniture, and a stove powered by firewood. Every morning, the hostess mixes the noodles, boils fresh pig intestines in the big stove, and washes and cuts various ingredients. After opening, she rolls the noodles on the spot, puts them in the pot, sprinkles them with ingredients, and serves a full bowl of noodles on the table. The diners also take pictures and post them on WeChat Moments, and then eat them happily.

It is said that the owner of the noodle shop is surnamed Zhou. More than ten years ago, he took over the "Baixian" brand from his mother-in-law, and it has been passed down to the fourth generation.

Peach Blossom Spring Xikeng Village

"A distant village, a lingering smoke drifting through the village"—a poem by Tao Yuanming perfectly captures this place. The well-proportioned villages possess a unique beauty that needs no over-embellishment. Rammed earth walls, old stone bridges, listening to the wind in the valley, and watching the sea of ​​clouds and mist create a unique romance. Having seen stunning photos in magazines, this captivating place, shrouded in year-round mist, has earned the nickname "China's Most Beautiful Village."

Guoyun Mountain Residence

An unknown small village in southern Zhejiang has entered the public eye because of a homestay and a sea of ​​clouds.

There are bamboo tables and chairs placed in front of the B&B. They are probably things that can only be found in the countryside. They were everywhere when we were young, but they are slowly disappearing as we grow up. In recent years, the retro style has begun to rise again, and things that were once unpopular are gradually becoming popular again.

In the past, the door here was open to welcome visitors from all over the world. As its fame grew, the door of the B&B was gradually locked. Only guests staying here can come in and out freely, or come here for afternoon tea after 2 pm.

The tea room in the B&B is very desirable. The large space and the floor-to-ceiling glass windows let in golden sunlight, making it warm and beautiful. On weekday afternoons, there are almost no people around, and the feeling of having the entire tea room to yourself is so refreshing.

Sit here and drink tea, watching the leaves outside the window slowly turn yellow, and then in winter, when the snow falls, it will be another scene.

There is an observation deck in the courtyard of the B&B, from which you can see the mountains in the distance. If you are lucky, you can watch the sea of ​​clouds in the morning, the sunset in the evening, drink tea, walk the dog, and pet the cat. This is my ideal life. I don’t have to think about anything and can just let myself go.

Searching for the Cloud

After leaving Guoyunshanju, walk along the stone steps and you will arrive at Yunduanmijing, an open courtyard with an open hall where you can drink coffee, tea, or order a cup of coffee and enjoy a wonderful afternoon in the courtyard.

The B&B has a large terrace where you can enjoy the sea of ​​clouds and the ancient village; the exquisite houses, the perfect amount of green plants, and the large terrace overlook the distant scenery.

By the way, I visited their homestay. It has elegant colors, huge floor-to-ceiling windows from which you can see the scenery outside, and a huge bathtub to wash away your fatigue.

The names of each room in Liushui Courtyard are so meaningful:

Seeking·Red mountain, seeking·Green spring, seeking·Green fruit, seeking·Light bamboo, seeking·White lotus. Joyful courtyard: Seeking·Rising clouds, seeking·Soft wind, seeking·Blooming flowers, seeking·Shadows of trees, seeking·Flying clouds. Memory courtyard: Seeking·Freedom, seeking·Peace of mind, seeking·Joy, seeking·Tranquility.

Damushan Tea Garden

Walking in the vast tea garden, my mood becomes more open. The sweet smell fills the air, and the winding paths stretch into the distance. You can also rent a bicycle here. The autumn weather is clear and refreshing, which is a comfortable season. It is so easy to gain a sense of happiness by spending twenty or thirty yuan.

There are many signboards in the tea garden, each of which is very suitable for taking pictures.

There is no need for navigation here, nor is there any need to go anywhere specifically. Just keep going along the main road, breathing in the fresh air and enjoying the beautiful scenery on both sides.

The Damushan Cycling Tea Garden, covering 80,000 mu (approximately 1,000 acres), is known as "China's largest tea garden." Near the lake in the center of the garden stands a renowned design. Its dark, industrial-style concrete structure might seem out of place, but upon closer inspection, it seems to blend in perfectly.

Shicang Ancient Residences

The Shicang ancient residential complex is located in Dadongba Town, Songyang County. It consists of six ancient villages, including Shangchapai, Xiaochapai, Shanbian, Xiazhaijie, Houzhai, and Caizhai, with a total of more than 30 magnificent ancient buildings from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is now listed as a provincial historical and cultural protection zone.

The ancient residential buildings are situated on the hillsides along Shicang Creek, facing the water and backing onto the mountain. Their mud walls and green tiles are arranged in a staggered pattern. This architectural pattern is driven by the topography and by the fact that the east-west orientation attracts wealth, as the north and south are associated with fire and water and should be avoided. Backing onto the mountain protects against winter winds, facing the water welcomes cool summer air, and the gentle slopes prevent flooding, creating a favorable microclimate.

The Shicang ancient residential complex was built in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. It has nearly 30 large-scale Qing-style houses, ancient shops, ancestral halls, temples and other buildings. The artistic components, couplets and plaques, folk cultural relics, villages, streams, and ancient trees in these ancient buildings all interpret the ancient history of the village.

Most of the residents of the warehouse moved to Songyang Shicang from Fujian in the early Qing Dynasty. More than 300 years have passed since then. They still speak the Fujian dialect and follow Fujian customs, retaining the cultural charm of Fujian. They have a unique cultural atmosphere and life atmosphere. It is the main residence of Hakka people who migrated to southwestern Zhejiang.

The Hakka are a large ethnic group within the Han nationality in my country. Their ancestors were originally Han people from the Central Plains. Due to wars, famines, and government rewards and punishments, they migrated south. They are numerous and widely distributed, and their main settlement is the triangle area bordering Guangdong, Fujian, and Jiangxi.

The ancient dwellings in Shicang are built against the mountain. Each courtyard cleverly utilizes the terrain of the mountain, with one layer stacked up and going up in a staggered and well-organized manner. Often, the back door of the building in the front leads to the courtyard of the building behind.

Le Shan Tang was built during the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty. It covers an area of ​​more than 1,600 square meters, with two courtyards and nine bays. The brick gatehouse is tall and magnificent, with the words "Baotian" inscribed on it.

The ancient architecture here retains its intact layout. The dwellings are built in the quadrangle style, with two or three courtyards on the central axis. The widths range from three, five, seven, or nine rooms, and the wing rooms vary from two, four, or six. The courtyards are spacious and bright, and the buildings are built like horse-racing towers with double eaves. Every detail is perfectly preserved, including spring wells, large water tanks, gable roofs, horse-head walls, brick carvings, painted beams, mud walls, and gray tiles.

Yunhe Terraces

This area, nestled in the mountains of southwestern Zhejiang, resembles a paradise on earth. With an average elevation of over 800 meters, it's often shrouded in mist. In 2012, the Yunhe Rice Terraces were named one of China's 40 most beautiful attractions by CNN for their "mirage-like farmland beauty."

The scenic area is located in Chongtou Town, 5 kilometers away from the county seat. It was first developed in the early Tang Dynasty and flourished in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. It has a history of more than 1,000 years. You can drive along the winding mountain road all the way up the mountain. The road is being widened in the mountains and mud is flying on the road. Be sure to keep the windows closed when you go there.

Xiandu

Xiandu, located in Jinyun County, got its name because Emperor Xuanzong of Tang, Li Longji, exclaimed that "it is truly a city where immortals gather" and wrote the two words "Xiandu" in his own hand.

The Xiandu Scenic Area comprises five major scenic spots: Dinghu Peak, Xiao Chibi, Xiandu Temple, Niweng Cave, and Zhutan Mountain. With its winding Nine-Bend Lianxi River and ten-mile-long picture gallery, breathtaking peaks and rocks, picturesque landscapes, and rich cultural heritage, the area is renowned for its "beauty of Guilin, wonder of Huangshan, and danger of Huashan."

Xiandu Scenic Areacheck the details

Xiandu Scenic Area, located 7 kilometers east of Jinyun County, Lishui, boasts the winding Nine-Bend Lianxi River and the Ten-Mile Gallery. Its elegant landscapes, shrouded in mist, create a pastoral landscape rich in wild charm, combining the beauty of Guilin, the wonders of Huangshan, and the dangers of Huashan. It has been renowned since the Sui Dynasty. Legend has it that during the Tianbao period of the Tang Dynasty, colorful clouds swirled around the mountain, creating a resounding sound in the valley and adding splendor to the forests. At the time, Governor Miao Fengqian reported this to Emperor Xuanzong, who exclaimed in amazement, "This is the city where immortals gather!" and personally wrote the words "Xiandu." Xiandu's fame endures to this day. Since the 1950s, Xiandu's stunning scenery and captivating cultural offerings have attracted numerous film and television directors, with nearly 100 productions filming locations there, earning it the nickname "Natural Studio."

Recommended months: April to June

3410 recommendations, 3970 visits

Dinghu Peak

Dinghu Peak, also known as Dufeng, Danfeng, and commonly known as Shizhuan, is a rhyolite platform formed by volcanic eruptions 160 million years ago. Formed by geological forces, it is a spectacular pillar-shaped peak known as the "No. 1 Peak in the World." Viewed from every angle, Dinghu Peak remains majestic.

It takes about 10 minutes to walk from the entrance to the mountain cable car, passing by Yangzhi Pavilion and Tianxia Diyi Temple.

For those who don't like mountain climbing, it's great to have a cable car going up and down. The price is reasonable, 25 yuan per trip, and a total of 40 yuan per person.

Climb to the top of the mountain and look down from the pavilion, the view is amazing.

Zhutan Mountain

Zhutan Mountain. It faces Banyan Village across the river. The renowned Neo-Confucianist Zhu Xi, while lecturing in Xiandu, often visited this spot in his spare time, boating on the green lake and enjoying the mountains. Later generations named the lake Zhutan and the mountain beside it Zhutan Mountain.

The entrance to the scenic area is located on a long causeway between two bridges, called the Xiandi Causeway. This is the best vantage point for viewing Dinghu Peak, and the best times for photography are early morning or late afternoon. Tickets to the Xiandu Scenic Area are valid for two days, so you can arrange your photography according to your arrival time.

This is a favorite of many photographers. It has also been the filming base for dozens of film and television dramas such as "Ashima", "The Twins", "Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils", and "Emperor Wu of Han".

Tips:

Transportation:

train

Take the high-speed rail to Jinyun Station, and then take a bus from the train station to Xiandu Scenic Area.

car:

1. There are tourist buses to Xiandu from Jinyun Passenger Transport Center (6:10-18:10, every 15-20 minutes), passing all major attractions.

2. There is a bus every 10 minutes between Jinyun and Lishui Passenger Transport Center from 6:00 to 18:50.

Self-driving guide:

Drive to Jinyun County and head towards Huzhen (National Highway 330), which is a ten-minute drive to Xiandu Scenic Area. First, visit Dinghu Peak Scenic Area, then visit other scenic areas along the route.

Scenic spot tickets:

Tickets are 120 yuan, including 60 yuan for Dinghu Peak, 10 yuan for Niweng Cave, 10 yuan for Chibi, 25 yuan for Furong Gorge, 5 yuan for Zhutan Mountain, and 10 yuan for Zhaohou Temple.

Tickets are valid for two days.

Conclusion

From the bustling city to the sparsely populated villages, listening to the birds singing and watching the ethereal sound of the mountain breeze blowing through the branches and leaves, this is an addictive place.