Explore Lanxi, a hidden gem in Jinhua, Zhejiang's Little Chaoshan
Preface
"Orchids are the national fragrance, and streams are the source of poetry"
Lanxi, what a beautiful name!
Old Hangzhou residents must have a breakfast shop called Youbu Soy Milk in their memories. This internet celebrity in the Hangzhou breakfast world actually comes from Lanxi, a low-key treasure town in central Zhejiang.
Li Yu, a dramatist in the Qing Dynasty, once said that Lanxi is a place "not surprising at first sight, heart-pounding at second sight, and fascinating at third sight."
Lanxicheck the details
Lanxi City, located in the central-western part of Zhejiang Province, is a county-level city under the jurisdiction of the province. It is a major industrial and tourist destination in the central and western part of the province, boasting convenient transportation by land and water. Known as the "Confluence of Three Rivers and the Thoroughfare of Seven Provinces," Lanxi boasts picturesque scenery, a rich cultural heritage, and numerous scenic spots, earning it the title of "China's Orchid Hometown." Northwestern Lanxi boasts three ancient villages: Zhuge Village, Changle Village, and Zhiyan Village. Bagua Village, among them, is the largest settlement of descendants of Zhuge Liang. The Lanxi Underground River boasts the most extensive cave tours in China. Other attractions include the Six Caves Mountain Scenic Area, the Mustard Seed Garden, and the Orchid Village.
Recommended month: All seasons
4177 recommendations, 3500 visits
If going to a big city is about broadening your physical and mental horizons through the impact of prosperity, then coming to Lanxi should be a relaxing and enjoyable journey away from the hustle and bustle.
All you need to do is take a direct green train from Hangzhou to Lanxi, which starts from Hangzhou and ends at Lanxi at a leisurely pace. You can just look at the scenery along the way and relax.
Here, you can stroll leisurely on the slightly old streets and take a look at the city brought by the river, where people and nature blend with each other, draw elements from nature, and create a food culture that is even older than Guangzhou's morning tea.
More than 300 flavors refined by time, all with a strong humanistic temperament and simple style, are truly irresistible.
Of course, Zhuge’s descendants have adhered to their ancestors’ teachings and have lived and recuperated here, just to pass on traditional culture from generation to generation.
The river brings local delicacies
The cool moon hangs like an eyebrow over the willow bay, and the mountains of Yue are reflected in the mirror.
Three days of peach blossom rain in Lanxi, carp come to the beach at midnight
This small ancient city hidden in Jinhua City once had the resounding reputation of "Small Jinhua Prefecture, Big Lanxi County".
In ancient times, Lanxi was "the confluence of three rivers, the waist of six waterways, and the thoroughfare of seven provinces." It was an important water transportation center at that time, a transfer point for tributes from southern provinces, and a water transportation hub connecting Shanghai and Hangzhou.
In 1912, British writer Luo Anyi arrived in Lanxi by boat. At that time, there were many shops along the river wharf, and the place was bustling with people. There were pedestrians shoulder to shoulder, and cargo ships flowed on the river from morning to night, with ships stretching for miles. There were flower boats on the riverside and teahouses in the city alleys, operas every day, and music every night, making the place prosperous.
Even today, we can still see traces of the town's former prosperity through every scene and object.
The coming and going of merchants from all over the world also promoted the integration of food cultures from all over the world, thus creating Lanxi's astonishing number of delicacies and unique flavors.
Morning tea and supper are both indispensable
How do you spend the morning in Lanxi?
The trade prosperity and gathering of people brought by the river are the first step in shaping Lanxi. The beginning of this step is the early morning in Lanxi, and morning tea is the wake-up call in the morning.
When you first come to Lanxi, you will exclaim: Oh my God, I’m afraid I can’t get rid of my fat!
Chicken buns, tofu dumplings, Lanxi beef noodles, Youbu pastries, rice cakes, and corn cakes... You have to stay here for at least 3 days and eat 5 meals a day to barely be able to try all the popular delicacies here. As for those niche flavors hidden in the corners and seasonal flavors, it is impossible to check them all out without staying here for a year.
Because, according to the Lanxi City Chronicles, at its peak, there were more than 300 kinds of snacks in Lanxi.
The best morning tea in Jiangnan, which is older than Guangzhou morning tea
A bowl of salty soy milk and large pancakes and fried dough sticks ring the morning bell for the people of Lanxi every day.
For outsiders, the temptation brought by Youbu Dim Sum Street is really unbeatable.
The local morning tea culture flourished thanks to the advantages of water transportation. Sailors valued time and would begin trading before dawn. Therefore, they always sat down at their tables to enjoy a cup of morning tea and a snack before commencing their work. Wooden tables also became a place for merchants and their employees to exchange market information.
Although there are no longer many ships, the mornings in the old street are still as lively as before.
Here, teahouses open at 4 a.m. and peak hours arrive after 6 a.m. Elderly people rush from their homes to watch the owner remove door panels to create long tables.
"Old natives" usually have their own designated seat, where they can sit with old friends and spend the entire morning chatting about everything from national affairs to family matters. The deep bond between these old friends is such that they can reminisce about their friendship several times a day without getting tired of it.
Choose one or two breakfasts you like from the dazzling array, blow away the tea leaves on the surface of the tea soup with your lips, and take a sip of boiling hot tea. The leisurely and comfortable time of traveling in the city will slowly spread out like ripples in the wind.
Of course, there is more than just tea here. You can also drink a glass of sorghum wine with the "old natives" and maybe you can make friends with them regardless of age.
However, you must note that the morning tea shop here is very "arrogant" and only accepts customers from 4 to 9 in the morning.
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shortbread
“The best Wu pastry is from Lanxi, and the best Lanxi pastry is from Youbu.” Youbu’s pastry is an absolute leader in the Jinhua pastry world.
There are pastry shops all over the streets and alleys here, and the most famous one must be the six-fingered pastry. The chef Liu Liqing who makes the pastry was born with six fingers.
The carefully selected ingredients and decades of consistent handcrafting have made Six Fingers' pastries famous. During the busiest hours, they are sold out after 8 p.m.
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Meat Sinkers
It looks simple, but it actually has a lot of tricks inside. It requires great skills to make. Use chopsticks to stuff meat into the egg yolk without destroying the overall shape of the egg.
When cooking, it should also be in a round shape and not scattered all over the pot.
When served, the eggs are tender and the meat is fresh, with a unique flavor.
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Corner Crisps
One of Youbu's traditional pastries, Jiaodaisu originated in the Tang Dynasty. However, with the increase in the variety of pastries, the time-consuming, labor-intensive and unprofitable Jiaodaisu has gradually faded from the public's view and is on the verge of extinction. There is almost only one restaurant in Lanxi that still makes it.
In addition, there are local specialties such as sauce shops and wine shops in the ancient town. You may want to experience the ancient brewing technology.
Award-winning street food
The perfect combination of carbohydrates and fats allows working people who are not afraid of gaining weight to be in great shape.
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Egg Cake
"Jizibao" is the name in Lanxi dialect, also called "eggbao", to be more precise it should be called egg pancake.
The secret lies in the ratio of egg liquid and chopped green onions. The meat patties are used as the base of the dough, and then a thick layer of chopped green onions is spread on it. After wrapping it into a cake, a small hole is left to pour in the egg liquid.
The skin is as thin as paper, the meat filling is delicious and juicy, and the taste is tender and smooth. One bite is filled with the mixed aroma of eggs, meat and onions. It can be called the "leader" of Lanxi cuisine.
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Tofu dumplings
Making tofu dumplings is a delicate craft. Firm tofu is tightly wrapped around a single piece of meat, rolled in a round bowl filled with starch, then gently slid into a large iron pot. Once the oil in the pot stirs slightly, it is served.
The overall appearance of the glutinous rice balls is smooth and crystal clear, and the taste is delicate and smooth.
There is an old shop in Nanmen that has been in business for 13 years. It uses the most delicious tofu in Lanxi, and the soup base is made from pork rib broth that has been simmered for a long time. The proprietress prepares 20 kilograms of tofu every day, just to let everyone taste the most local flavor of Lanxi.
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Tianjin steamed buns
Although it is called "Tianjin Baozi", this fried bun is not found in Tianjin but only in Lanxi, and no one seems to be able to explain the origin of its name.
When making this snack, you need to pour in more vegetable oil, and then fry the buns on both sides thoroughly, so that the buns become thin and crispy without becoming hard, and the pork filling inside is even more fresh and tempting.
A small town secretly hides 300 noodle shops
People from Lanxi love noodles to the core.
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Handmade beef noodles
Lanxi, home to over 300 noodle shops, also has its own unique take. It's said that the first thing a Lanxi traveler would do upon returning home is to have a bowl of local beef noodles at a noodle shop.
Because, in their opinion, noodles from other places do not have the "strength" of noodles from their hometown and cannot satisfy their taste buds.
The noodles in Lanxi must be rolled and kneaded by hand to make them chewy and smooth. Only when you eat them yourself will you understand how good they are.
The toppings are particular about each bowl, and you can pile in beef, Chinese mustard greens, large intestine, kidney, bean curd sheets... whatever you like.
Stir-fry over high heat until half cooked, then pour in the prepared broth and noodles, allowing the three to blend perfectly to create the fragrant taste that Lanxi people love most.
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Yue Yue Chicken Intestine Noodles
Besides the top-rated beef noodles, Yueyue Chicken Intestine Noodles is another internet sensation in Lanxi. Its generous helping of toppings is instantly appealing to offal lovers, while the traditional handmade noodles leave you slurping non-stop.
Of course, besides noodle soup, the most popular dish in Lanxi is the mixed noodles. Unlike the simple scallion oil mixed noodles you'd find elsewhere, these are surprisingly loaded with ingredients. These chewy, handmade noodles are spoon-fed with more than five ingredients—pickled radish, pickled beans, kimchi, peanuts, and more.
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Water powder
Cold-mixed shuisuofen (water-ground dried vermicelli) is a summer savior for Lanxi residents. The water-ground dried vermicelli undergoes several steps, including boiling, rinsing, draining, and cooling, before its smooth texture is achieved.
Then pour the homemade sauce over it and add shredded cucumber, kelp, peanuts, bean sprouts, diced radish, cilantro, and other cold side dishes according to your preference. If you can handle spicy food, you can add a spoonful of chopped chili pepper, stir well, and then eat it.
Let's go to Qiaotou to eat hotpot tonight
A bowl of pork rib stew is not only delicious, but also a symbol of friendship.
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Lanxi Pot
"Pot" is a delicacy full of the flavor of everyday life, and Pot Village is the gathering place for this kind of fireworks.
Lanxi residents are also particularly fond of hotpots. Whether it's black fish hotpot, old duck hotpot, or pork shank hotpot, there's always a choice that's perfect for every season, with every ingredient, and a flavor to suit your taste.
For most of the old pot houses in Lanxi, the bustling atmosphere becomes most vibrant when night falls.
With a small square table and a few bamboo chairs, a few brothers and friends can gather around a table, put on a pot of steaming food, and start eating together.
Niche gameplay that only locals know
There are many places in Lanxi that you really shouldn't miss because they are all very charming.
Zhuge Bagua Village
There is a small village in Jinhua, Zhejiang, called Zhuge Bagua Village, which is the largest settlement of Zhuge Liang's descendants discovered so far.
The village has preserved a large number of ancient dwellings from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the architectural layout is arranged according to the style of the "Eight Formations Diagram". It is the only ancient cultural village in China and unparalleled in the world.
But this village is not only breathtaking for its ancient buildings, but also for the bizarre Kongming locks invented by Zhuge Liang's descendants. It is said that the Kongming lock was invented by Zhuge Kongming during the Three Kingdoms period based on the principles of Bagua metaphysics.
It is a traditional fastener used for fixing civil engineering structures in ancient China, and is also an intellectual toy widely circulated among the Chinese people.
The owner of this small workshop, Zhuge Wencang, is the 51st generation descendant of Zhuge Kongming and the inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Kongming lock making skills.
If you are interested in this kind of craft, you might as well go and experience the wisdom from ancient times and appreciate the culture of our ancestors.
Green train
Everyone may have a green train of their own in their hearts. When you sit on it and head towards a distant destination, the scenery along the way slowly passes by your eyelids with the clanging sound of the train.
Now think about it, in this busy society that pursues speed, how many people are willing to buy a ticket for a green train and enjoy a slow time?
Lanxi Station was built in 1932 and became the only external operating window on the Jinqian Railway in 2009. In 2016, Lanxi Station only handled departure and arrival services from Lanxi to Hangzhou.
Let's experience this train together.
T7785/T7788 Hangzhou→Lanxi 16:08 - 18:50
T7786/T7787 Lanxi→Hangzhou 07:10 - 9:51
The Mustard Seed Garden Play
The Mustard Seed Garden is located at the foot of Lanyin Mountain. It was built to commemorate Li Yu, a famous dramatist in the Qing Dynasty. The overall style of the garden is that of a Ming and Qing Dynasty building.
It inherits the architectural style and name of Nanjing Mustard Seed Garden. Its simple and elegant atmosphere gives people a sense of time travel. If you meet a few people wearing Hanfu, you may wonder if you have really traveled back in time.
Although the Mustard Seed Garden covers an area of only 10.5 acres, it is all-encompassing and has "unique hills and valleys".
The garden boasts pavilions, terraces, curved bridges, and fish ponds, all adorned with valuable flowers and trees. The sense of grandeur and serenity in the small, and the allure of the winding path, creates a truly elegant and unique atmosphere. A stage stands on Fuqiu Pond, overlooking it across the water. In a trance, you can almost hear the actors humming their heartfelt songs.
As Feng Qiyong, president of the Chinese Dream of the Red Chamber Research Association, wrote in his poem: "The music is so exquisite that only the old man in the hat can be found, and the famous garden and small building are also masterpieces of art; now I move to Lanxi, where I can listen to the wind blowing in a corner of the autumn river." The unique and beautiful scenery that can be seen at a glance can also make people feel relaxed and happy.
B&B with the ancient charm of Jiangnan
The scenery of Lanxi Shuimu Tsinghua University fully displays the gentle beauty of Jiangnan, but Lanxi's Jiangnan charm is more worthy of your careful appreciation in a unique B&B.
Located in the heart of Zhuge Bagua Village, Yuzhan is a luxury B&B renovated from a century-old house. Formerly a shop, this waterfront residence, a Ming and Qing dynasty-style wooden structure, boasts over 400 years of history. Its transformation into a B&B allows guests to fully experience the rich history of this ancient city.
Facing the shore of Shangtang, opening the wooden door of Yuzhan, a breath of ancient charm washes over you. Wandering through this 400-year-old Ming and Qing dynasty house, while seemingly empty, offers the most fulfilling pleasure.
The B&B offers 12 unique guest rooms, each named after the 24 solar terms. Clean, comfortable bedding, exquisitely decorated with paintings, and amenities standard for a five-star hotel ensure you enjoy a restful night's sleep while basking in the breathtaking scenery of Lanxi's Jiangnan region.
Or simply stroll around, time passing as the town's veteran craftsmen, each one aging, their work etched with each stroke of their craft, like the polish of time, on this ancient town. Only by preserving these roots can we understand where we come from. This is where we find peace of mind.
Conclusion
In a trip, beautiful scenery and delicious food are the most basic and indispensable combination.
The Jiangnan charm of Lanxi is hidden in the ancient scenery, and of course it is also deposited in the delicious food and traditional skills. Our ancestors have left us too many memories worth remembering. When you visit Lanxi, your body and mind will always gain many beautiful memories.
