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In my plan to travel around Northwest China, I reserved a week for Gannan. In reality, we stayed here for nearly a month. Here, you can find all the scenery you could want. It's the right place to go.
During this month, we almost ran out of oxygen while running on the "Gangjia Grassland", turned the world's longest prayer wheel at the "Labrang Monastery", avoided the crowds to see the most beautiful "Sangke Grassland", cheered for Tibetan wrestling and yak racing at the "Gongzhuang Dance Conference", searched for traces left by migratory birds in "Gahhai", watched the annual "King Gesar Horse Racing" amid the crowds of "Maqu", saw snow-capped mountains in "Awancang", were crazy about the scenery on the way to "Ximeiduohetang", were sickened by the secularity of "Langmusi", felt the last trace of fairy air in the morning mist of "Zhagana", measured the deepest part of "Zecha Stone Forest" with our feet, watched the Danxia of "Yeliguan" at sunset, and waved goodbye to Gannan under the prayer flag corridor of "Meiren Grassland".
Gannancheck the details
Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, one of China's ten Tibetan autonomous prefectures, is located in southwestern Gansu Province, at the transition zone between the northeastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and the western Loess Plateau. It is a confluence of Tibetan and Han cultures and serves as a water source conservation and replenishment area for the Yellow and Yangtze Rivers. Professor Fei Xiaotong called it a "window to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau" and a "springboard for Tibetan modernization." Gannan boasts a mountainous climate and alpine grasslands, making it a backpacking paradise for independent travelers. It is more accessible than Tibet and western Sichuan, and its relatively undeveloped state preserves its unique pristine charm. Gahai Lake, Labrang Monastery, Langmusi Temple, Sangke Grassland, Shicheng Zhagana, and Zecha Stone Forest are all excellent tourist destinations.
Recommended months: June to August
6510 recommendations, 5010 visits
You don’t have to go back when exploring Gannan, as the cities are all distributed in a line from north to south.
1. Ganga Grassland - Ganga Secret Realm
2. Xiahe-Airport Line-Luqu (crossing the Sangke Grassland in the middle)
3. Maqu - S330 - Ximeiduohetang (snow-capped mountains, grasslands, the Yellow River, and marmots are all along this route)
4. Maqu – G345 – Awancang (mountain roads, wetlands)
5. Cooperation—X406—Yiliguan (Grassland, Terraces)
1. Introduction
Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture has six counties and one city, namely Xiahe, Luqu, Maqu, Zhouqu, Diebu, Lintan and Hezuo City. There are many ethnic groups, mainly Tibetans, Hui people and Han people.
2. Terrain
The south is mountainous, the east is hilly, and the northwest is vast grassland.
3. Climate
It is said that summer is the peak season in Gannan, because the temperature here is really cool. The average temperature during the day is around 20 degrees, and at night it is 7-8 degrees, with a huge temperature difference between day and night.
4. Altitude
The average sea level here is 2900 meters above sea level, and the highest altitude in Maqu is 3500 meters, but it is basically no problem. If you are not in good health, you can drink Rhodiola rosea in advance to prevent it.
5. Dressing
Remember these two words: sun protection and cold protection. Even if you wear long sleeves and long pants, your skin will sting after a few minutes in the midday sun. And because the temperature difference between day and night is so large, you'll still need a thin down jacket and long johns to stay warm in the early mornings and evenings of August.
6. Self-driving
Most of the roads here are easy to drive on, and even a low-slung car can drive without any pressure. But be aware that cars also have altitude sickness, the main manifestation of which is insufficient power, especially when going uphill, stalling will often occur.
7. Diet
Because this area borders Gansu, Qinghai, and Sichuan, there's a wide variety of cuisines. There's Gansu's signature noodle dishes, Sichuan cuisine, and even Tibetan cuisine. Prices are moderate, similar to those in second- and third-tier cities. A bowl of Lanzhou ramen costs 7 yuan, while Tibetan rice is just over 40 yuan.
8. Personal Issues
Most restaurants here don't have restrooms. While there are plenty of public restrooms, few are open. Even those that are open are often clean and have running water, as restrooms are everywhere on the grassland. So, my advice is to bring an umbrella. You can cover your face or even your genitals when you go to the bathroom to avoid any awkwardness. The restrooms in these places are truly impressive, so feel free to use them: the public restroom next to Luqu People's Hospital (clean, no running water); the restrooms at the Meiren Grassland Service Area (clean, running water); and the service area in Hezuo City.
9. Cell phone signal
The signal in the county town is generally good, and the signal is relatively poor on some sections of the road in the mountains and grasslands. However, compared with the three major operators, China Mobile is more reliable. Even if there is no signal, it doesn't matter. The roads here are relatively simple and the signs are very clear. It is recommended to download an offline map before departure just in case.
10. Customs
I think it's impossible to understand all Tibetan customs, but it's okay to maintain respect and equality. Temples often have Chinese signs such as "Please visit in a clockwise direction" and "Do not take photos of Buddha statues" to allow Han people to visit without violating taboos.
11. Personal safety
Although it's a Tibetan area, the security is relatively good. However, it's best not to go out at night. Always travel in groups and, if possible, bring some self-defense gear. Tibetans are accustomed to carrying knives, and you can't predict what might happen. Aside from Maqu, which is a purely Tibetan area, other areas have a relatively high Han population. Langmusi's population and security aren't particularly good, so be sure to stay safe.
As the world's leading center for Tibetan studies, Labrang Monastery boasts the world's most comprehensive Tibetan studies system, and naturally attracts numerous pilgrims. It boasts the world's longest prayer wheel corridor, with over 2,000 prayer wheels, and it takes over an hour to complete the entire process.
Tips:
Tickets: Free now, you can also visit Gongtang Pagoda and other places, but there will be more people and the road will be narrow.
Parking: The parking fee is 10 yuan for small cars and 20 yuan for large cars. You can also walk from the county town and park on the roadside in the county town without charging parking fees.
Photography: You can take photos from the Gongtang Pagoda or from the hill opposite the temple, where you can see the panoramic view. If you have enough time, remember to go to the east side of the temple to take a look. There are many open courtyards worth exploring.
Tips: Even if you don’t understand the rules of Tibetan temples, don’t be afraid. Just walk clockwise and don’t take pictures of Buddha statues and lamas when you enter the temple.
How come the Sangke Grassland has become so popular just because it has a plank road and parking lot? I want to tell you how to avoid the crowded plank road and experience the true beauty of the Sangke Grassland.
Don't rush to get off the bus when you pass the Sangke Grassland Viewpoint. Continue walking. There's a boarding school and a large open space nearby. Don't hesitate to drive up. There are fewer people here, and the scenery remains the same Sangke Grassland, but the difference is that there's a lake hidden here. Follow the path further in, and you'll find a vast expanse of knee-deep grassland, within which lies a clear lake and a river flowing out. The lake is full of ducks, and cattle graze by the lakeside. Mountains are in the distance, and grasslands lie nearby.
The water flowing out of the lake is crystal clear, and washing your face there will make you feel refreshed. Even if you camp out here, you don't have to worry about water, as there's a school nearby and a well in the schoolyard.
The Gangjia Secret Realm includes scenic spots such as Bajiao City and Baishiya, but in Gannan, scenic spots are really not as beautiful as the scenery on the road.
When you enter the Gangjia Secret Realm, don't stop at Bajiaocheng. Keep driving. There are only two lanes here, but the scenery on both sides is truly amazing. Behind you is the White Stone Cliff, and there are no people around. No matter how you pose, you won't feel awkward. Wear your most beautiful dress and act pretentious. When you arrive at the Gangjia Secret Realm, you have to mention the Gangjia Grassland. Although the Gangjia Grassland is not as famous as Sangke, I personally think the scenery is definitely better than Sangke. It has not been overdeveloped, there are few people and the scenery is beautiful. It is also a place where locals like to vacation. Most importantly, this road is full of scenery.
The competition involves lifting leather bags, each weighing over 200 pounds. Competitors must lift the bags onto their shoulders to pass. Tibetan wrestling is incredibly thrilling, with both players grasping each other's belts and pressing down on them. Weight isn't crucial here; it requires not only a stable lower body but also strong upper limbs. There's even a yak race here—how impressive!
Gahai, though called a sea, is actually a lake. Its full name is the Gahai Wetland Reserve. A wetland naturally harbors a variety of birds, including the black-necked crane, whose rarity rivals that of our national treasure, the panda. However, these birds only appear during migration in April and May. Of course, many other birds are also present, so if you visit during other months, it's just a lake.
It's only 48 kilometers from Luqu County to Zecha Stone Forest, but the navigation system tells you it'll take 1 hour and 33 minutes. The entire journey is like a go-kart, littered with inevitable pits, fallen rocks, half-collapsed roads, makeshift bridges, and countless cattle, sheep, rats, and other animals. But once you enter the stone forest, you'll forget how difficult the road was. There's an even more arduous road waiting for you. If you want to see more unique scenery, you need to measure it with your feet, to explore it. Follow the plank road to the deepest part of the stone forest, and the scenery you see will definitely not let you down.
Tips:
Tips: It is best to come in the early morning so that you can see the mist rising. The mist floating in the stone forest looks like a fairyland.
Transportation: The roads leading to the Stone Forest are all paved, but the road surface is really bad, worse than ordinary dirt roads, with various potholes. If it rains, there is also the danger of falling rocks.
I believe all major platforms have specific guides, and what I say may not be as detailed as theirs, but what I want to say today is that I do not recommend you to go to Langmusi.
There's only one reason: there are too many unruly people. You can't be safe here, and you can't be happy here. Let me start with my own experience. The day I arrived at the foot of Langmusi Temple, I only had one meal and left immediately because I was disgusted by several things.
1. Found a public parking space without any fee sign. I confirmed with the local driver that it was free. When I was leaving, someone came to collect 10 yuan, and only accepted cars from out-of-town. When I asked him where the parking fee sign was, he hesitated and was very aggressive.
2. The public toilet was locked, but someone next door opened their own toilet and charged one yuan per person.
3. When eating in a restaurant, two people suddenly rush in and start singing and playing the piano, then ask for money. If you don’t give them money, they will continue singing, and leave immediately after you give them money.
Let me tell you about another tourist. She was having dinner with a friend in Langmusi Town that evening. While using the restroom, a local grabbed her hair and choked her. Thinking he was trying to rob her, she offered him her money and phone. The man just muttered, "Not fair, not fair." Luckily, her friend showed up in time and fought off the local, putting an end to the situation. Just imagine how much of a trauma that would have left on the young woman.
If you want to visit a Tibetan temple, go to Labrang Monastery, the world's largest center of Tibetan studies. If you want to see mountain scenery, go to Zhagana, known as the Stone Box. If, after seeing all this, you still must go, my advice is: don't go alone, don't go out at night, and always carry personal protection. When you're out and about, safety is paramount.
Every year on August 13th, Maqu hosts the week-long King Gesar Horse Racing Tournament at the King Gesar Racecourse. Athletes from five provinces—Gansu, Sichuan, Qinghai, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia—attend the races, creating a truly spectacular spectacle with huge crowds and flags flying. You can find everything you want here: food, drinks, entertainment, and daily necessities. Many businesses even close their doors just to watch the races.
Awancang Wetland is about 50 kilometers from Maqu County. It was raining when we arrived, so we camped there for two days, hoping to see the most beautiful Awancang. Instead, we were greeted by August snow, which revealed a completely different scene.
There's a place in Maqu that might not seem particularly stunning without its flowers. But getting there—a mere 100 kilometers—takes over two hours by car, because every section here is a painting. It's Ximeiduohetang. From Maqu, take Highway 330 to Ximeiduohetang. The road takes you through snow-capped mountains, grasslands, the Yellow River, and sandbars. Take any side roads that catch your eye; the scenery won't disappoint. You're also guaranteed to encounter adorable little creatures like hares and marmots. If you're looking for a less crowded and scenic route, this is the right choice.
I knew about Zhagana, the place known as the "Garden of Eden," long before I even heard of Gannan. But when I arrived, filled with all my fantasies, I was suddenly doused in a cold shower. There were no isolated villages here, only large, commercialized tourist areas.
Tips:
Tickets: No, only 5 yuan per person for insurance
Attractions: This area consists of four Tibetan villages arranged from west to east, from high to low. Tourists are mainly concentrated in Dongwa Village. The scenery gets better as you go higher, but the roads become more difficult. The roads are currently under construction, so it's expected to improve in the near future.
Parking: There are numerous viewing platforms, with a uniform price of 10 yuan for small cars. About 20 kilometers before entering Zhagana, there's a large sign proclaiming "Zhagana Geopark." Continue another 20 kilometers to the entrance gate of Zhagana. After paying, continue further inside to enter the scenic area. Once inside, you'll discover that it's truly surrounded by mountains and a truly scenic spot. Everywhere you look, you'll see inns and restaurants, eagerly soliciting customers, and construction underway. The road leading here is smooth and straight, and with a national highway currently under construction directly to Hezuo, tourism is sure to flourish. If you're lucky, you can even catch a glimpse of Zhagana's ethereal beauty amidst the morning mist. If I had visited a few years ago, I think I would have fallen in love with this place.
Meiren Grassland is a magical wonder among the Gannan grasslands. The grass here isn't grass at all, but rather tiny grass bags. The entire grassland is covered in these small bags, creating a truly adorable scene. There's also a 300-meter-long prayer flag tunnel, which is truly spectacular. Most importantly, each service area here offers a stunning viewing platform, complete with clean restrooms and running water—a truly touching sight in Gannan, where running water is scarce.
Yeliguan has four scenic areas: Chibi Valley, Yehai Lake, Qinni Valley, and Forest Park. The first three are available as a package, while Forest Park sells separate tickets. Chibi Valley is entirely covered in Danxia landforms, making it a great place to visit if you don't have the chance to visit Zhangye.
Gannan has been developing rapidly in recent years. Villages are being renovated, roads and railways are being built, and with improved transportation, tourism will also flourish. It's best to travel early; the earlier you go, the better the scenery.
