Magazine Maniac | 2018-12-13 | 37,000

Shaoxing Wife takes you around Shaoxing and explores the must-see and emerging attractions of Shaoxing.

Preface

Shaoxing, a small city difficult to define in just a few words, is a place rich in cultural heritage. From ancient times to the present, Shaoxing has produced countless famous figures, including Yu the Great, who controlled the floods; Goujian, who slept on firewood and tasted gall; Xi Shi, one of the Four Beauties; the renowned calligrapher Wang Xizhi; and the poet Lu You. Among the most famous in modern times are Cai Yuanpei, former president of Peking University; and Qiu Jin, the renowned democratic revolutionary. Zhou Enlai and Lu Xun, not to mention, are just a few. If I were to list Shaoxing's famous figures, the list would be endless.

Shaoxing is also a city rich in cultural heritage. Beginning in the Tang Dynasty, over 450 poets, including Li Bai and Du Fu, roamed the city's landscapes, leaving behind numerous poems and verses. During the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, numerous scholars and writers flocked to the city, penning numerous poems, including over 1,500 Tang poems. Shaoxing is a perfect place to study with children. With works like "From Baicao Garden to Sanwei Bookstore," "Community Opera," "Hometown," "Preface to the Lanting Anthology," and "Occasional Poems on Returning Home," it's no surprise that Shaoxing is one of the cities most frequently mentioned in textbooks.

As a daughter-in-law of Shaoxing, I have been to Shaoxing many times for work and personal reasons, but each time I did not take the opportunity to explore Shaoxing properly. This Mid-Autumn Festival, I finally walked through Shaoxing again and finally managed to successfully check in some of the must-see places.

transportation

For those living in the Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai regions, the most convenient way to get to Shaoxing is by car. However, if you don't have a car, you can also take the high-speed rail, which is equally convenient. It only takes 19 minutes from Hangzhou to Shaoxing. Shaoxing is a small city, so taxis are affordable and transportation is convenient. Some attractions are close enough to walk to.

play

Shaoxing Ancient City

Shaoxing is a water town, with its ancient city surrounded by water and crisscrossed by rivers. It's known as the "Ancient City Floating on Water." Within Shaoxing Old Town, there are several cruise ship docks. Wupeng boats, a unique water transportation method, are also a popular way to explore the ancient city. If you have time, experience the feeling of viewing the ancient city from a Wupeng boat.

The ancient city is full of ancient charm and shaded by green trees. The residential buildings with white walls and gray tiles are well preserved. Walking in the small city, you can feel the strong atmosphere of life here, which is completely different from that in big cities. The people here are not like people in big cities who are always in a hurry. Walking in the ancient city of Shaoxing, the residents of the old city are doing the work at hand leisurely, drying vegetables and lotus root powder, and chatting about family matters. Here you can feel the slow life that you have not seen for a long time.

Walking on the street, it is easy to see middle-aged and elderly men wearing Shaoxing's unique black felt hats. I have only seen this unprepossessing hat in books and on TV before, but I didn't expect it to be very popular among local people in Shaoxing.

Wang Yangming Memorial Hall

Shaoxing is the hometown of Ming Dynasty philosopher Wang Yangming and the birthplace of his philosophy of mind, earning it the title of "Holy City of Yangmingism." It's not only where Wang Yangming grew up and was buried, but also where he lived the longest and left the most relics. It's also where Wang's thought emerged and matured, profoundly influencing his followers. Within the ancient city lies the Wang Yangming Memorial Hall, which we visited.

Near the Wang Yangming Memorial Hall is the Wang Yangming Observatory, a rectangular stone platform used for divination and celestial observation. Over ten meters wide from north to south and twenty meters long from east to west, it resembles a rockery and is worth a visit. It has been renovated and has become a venue for the study and promotion of Wang Yangming's philosophy of mind.

Standing on the observatory and looking down at the ancient city, the residential buildings with white walls and gray tiles are well preserved.

Shaoxing is the hometown of the calligrapher Wang Xizhi. There is also the hometown of the calligrapher in the ancient city. This Jiezhu Temple was once the former residence of Wang Xizhi.

Opposite the Jiezhu Temple there is a pool called Mochi, which is said to be where Wang Xizhi used to wash his brushes.

Cai Yuanpei's former residence

Located at No. 13, Bifei Lane, Xiaoshan Street, Shaoxing Old Town, this is a house in the architectural style of the Chinese Ming and Qing Dynasties. It also houses the Cai Yuanpei Memorial Hall, which houses a statue of Cai Yuanpei and an introduction to his life and deeds.

The architectural style of the lattice doors and windows is very Chinese.

Shaoxing Ancient City is a small city that can be explored in half a day. Compared with visiting various scenic spots and historical sites, I enjoyed wandering through the alleys of the ancient city more. Only in these alleys can you feel the strong atmosphere of small town life.

Lu Xun's hometown

As we all know, Shaoxing is the hometown of Lu Xun. Many of the places he described here appear in textbooks. Having visited Shaoxing so many times, it's hard not to check in at Lu Xun's hometown. So, after dinner, we took another trip to Lu Xun's hometown. Lu Xun's hometown is a free tourist attraction, occupying a block on Luxun Middle Road. Even though it was evening, Lu Xun's former residence was still open, but entry required scanning a QR code at the entrance to make an appointment.

Lu Xun's bedroom:

We have seen the Baicao Garden and Sanwei Bookstore in textbooks, and now we can finally see the real versions. I wonder if you think they are the same as you imagined?

What is more interesting is that there are cultural products related to Lu Xun for sale in Lu Xun’s former residence, which is also quite interesting.

Anchang Ancient Town

Although Anchang Ancient Town in Xingkeqiao is not as famous as the six ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River, its unique local charm and less commercial atmosphere make this ancient town particularly attractive compared to other famous ancient towns.

Anchang Ancient Town is the oldest ancient town in Shaoxing. It was built in the Northern Song Dynasty and its architectural style inherits the typical characteristics of the Jiangnan water town.

I actually visited this ancient town four years ago in the summer, but it's said that Anchang Ancient Town is at its most beautiful in winter. Anchang Ancient Town's specialties are Anchang sausages, various pickled goods, and pulled white sugar. In late autumn and early winter, every household begins to pickle and dry sausages, as well as various pickled ducks, pickled pig heads, and pickled dried fish. This time, upon arriving at the entrance to the ancient town, we were greeted by a bustling display of pickled goods and sausages.

The old town's streets run along the river. Walking along the bluestone pavement, you'll find residential areas on the south bank and the market on the north, connected by an ancient bridge. The long corridors along the riverbank, all covered to provide shade and shelter from the rain, have now been converted into various traditional shops and workshops.

As the New Year is approaching, local residents have taken out all kinds of homemade sausages, pickles, and dried vegetables for sale. There are hundreds of cured food shops on the whole street. The sausages here are all handmade by local residents. After the sausages are stuffed, they are hung by the river in front of the house for ventilation. Walking on the street, the aroma is everywhere, making people drool.

Shop owners just sit back and wait in their shops, without having to shout or advertise, as tourists from all over the world come to their shops to select goods and make purchases.

If you are tired of walking, you can sit by the promenade, enjoy the river view of the water town, and taste a bowl of local specialty noodles, wontons and other snacks.

The small bridges in Anchang are also very distinctive, with a variety of shapes and a simple and elegant style. Walking on the bridges, watching the boat captain wearing a Shaoxing black felt hat rowing his black-sailed boat passing by under the bridge, it feels like time has flown back.

Another Anchang specialty is soy sauce. Renchang brand is the most famous, and the local sausages are seasoned with it. Don't underestimate Renchang soy sauce; a bottle costs thirty or forty yuan, not much cheaper than the Japanese soy sauce sold in Japanese restaurants. Renchang Sauce Factory, also located in Anchang Ancient Town, offers a glimpse through its windows, revealing large, neatly arranged vats filled with fermented soy sauce. This handmade soy sauce is far healthier and more delicious than blended soy sauce.

Shaoxing is a very livable small city. The people here enjoy their routine and ordinary lives. The nightlife here is not that rich. Unlike other famous ancient towns, at around 5 pm in Anchang Ancient Town, all the shops are ready to close, and the ancient town also becomes deserted from being bustling. If you want to experience the real life in a water town, you can't go wrong by coming to Anchang Ancient Town.

Oriental Landscape Park

Located on an island in Nandachi, Keqiao District, Shaoxing, lies the Oriental Landscape Park. Reportedly costing 8 billion yuan and taking four years to build, it's surprising such a small city boasts such a high-end theme park. The park comprises five massive, "pebble-shaped" structures and boasts the accompanying five-star Oriental Landscape Sands Hotel.

I remember the first time I went to Seoul, South Korea a few years ago and experienced the fun of Lotte World Indoor Theme Park for the first time. It was really memorable and I thought Lotte World was super fun. I didn’t expect that there would be such a fun indoor park in this small city near Hangzhou.

Oriental Landscape Water Park consists of two parts: the Land Park and the Water Park. Both are indoors, completely unaffected by weather conditions, allowing for year-round enjoyment. Upon entering the park, I was captivated by the lobby show. The oversized circular LED column in the center of the lobby utilizes advanced audio-visual technology to create a sensory feast, transporting visitors to a dreamlike world.

Since I didn't bring a swimsuit, I skipped the water park this time and instead focused on the land park. The land park is divided into the Mountain Kingdom, Dream World, and Adventure Kingdom, as well as the Underground Crystal Cave, the Treasure Museum, and the National Defense Education Experience Hall. Honestly, this park is a perfect place for children to study and play. No wonder, even though it wasn't a weekend, the park was packed with children of all ages, happily guided by teachers and parents through the various areas.

Sitting on the Yuanli airship, visitors can clearly see the panoramic view of the museum from top to bottom.

The exciting ghost ancient ship (pirate ship) has a very large swing angle. Tourists sitting on it feel like they are on a flying boat in the raging sea. This project is not only loved by children, but also by young people who like excitement.

There are several wonderful performances in the park every day, and performers often tour the park to interact with tourists.

At the National Defense Education Hall, visitors can get up close and personal with the nation's most advanced military equipment and experience a spacecraft re-entry capsule. The latest 4D film technology allows visitors to experience the impact of technological advancements. Here, visitors can appreciate the strength of China's national defense and the advancement of its equipment. This area is particularly popular with boys.

However, my favorite is the Treasure House on the second floor of the "Mountain Kingdom," which houses a vast collection of rare treasures and antiques. Sunken wood, cloisonné, and mammoth ivory are among the finest items on display. I imagine a significant portion of the 8 billion yuan investment went into this treasure house.

What is unexpected is that there is an underground crystal cave under the Mountain Kingdom. There are stalactites such as stalagmites, stone towers, and stone flowers in the cave. The crystal illusion looks particularly bright and dreamy under the coordination of lights.

There is also a tropical rainforest area in the park, and the realistic installations make people feel like they have really stepped into nature.

Visitors who are brave enough can also go to the haunted house No. 81 Tailor Shop to challenge it, but as a coward, I don’t dare to do it.

The park boasts dozens of attractions. While the park's relatively new reputation keeps crowds low and lines short, trying every attraction in a single day is still a stretch. Fortunately, the park is conveniently located near cities like Hangzhou, Shanghai, and Ningbo, making it a great place to visit again and again. Compared to previously mentioned attractions like Lu Xun's Former Residence and Anchang Ancient Town, the Ten-Mile Lotus Pond is much lesser-known. Located west of Keqiao Jinghu Wetland Park, the pond offers a unique spectacle, albeit not summer, with only a few remaining lotus leaves.

This is a very quiet place. When you have nothing to do, you can come here for a walk, breathe some fresh air, relax and enjoy the feeling of being alone.

There is also a reed marsh in the scenic area, which is a good place to take photos.

Tangdi Village

If you have extra time in Shaoxing, you might want to visit Tangdi Village. Known as "Shaoxing's No. 1 Flower and Tree Village," over 95% of the village's workforce is directly or indirectly involved in flower and tree production and management, and the village is renowned for its orchids. The road leading to Tangdi Village is covered in vibrant blooms, earning it the nickname "Shaoxing's Most Beautiful Road." Cycling along this path is sure to bring you joy.

The Shaoxing region also includes Xinchang County, Shengzhou City, and Zhuji City. This time, we also took a side trip to Zhuji. I've been to Zhuji several times, and its most famous attractions are the Xishi Hometown and the Wuxie Scenic Area, both of which I've already visited. So, this time, we decided to visit two lesser-known but equally unique and interesting spots.

Miguoguo Town

Miguoguo Town is a perfect weekend getaway for families. It seamlessly integrates agriculture and tourism. The park is divided into six zones: farming and animal husbandry, efficient utilization of farming waste, deep processing of agricultural and sideline products, rural leisure and tourism, agricultural product exhibitions and sales, and agricultural science education for youth. Miguoguo Town offers a wealth of fresh experiences, not just for children, but also for city dwellers. It's a place where you can learn a lot about agriculture, which is why it attracts so many visitors with children, many of whom are from abroad.

Torreya grandis Forest Park

Torreya grandis is a Zhuji specialty. Because its production is so low, it's a highly prized nut. While many people may have eaten Torreya grandis, they may never have seen the trees that produce them. Deep in the Kuaiji Mountains of Zhuji, Shaoxing, lies the Torreya Grandis Forest Park, where you can see what Torreya grandis trees actually look like. We visited the park this time.

There is a Torreya grandis forest in the Torreya grandis Forest Park. The ancient Torreya grandis trees have intricate roots, some are twisted and curved, and some are towering into the clouds, which is a sight that never gets boring.

You should know that Torreya trees are very tall, and picking is not an easy task. There is a wooden ladder under a Torreya tree, which is a tool for workers to climb up to pick Torreya nuts. For ordinary people like us, it seems very dangerous just by looking at it.

In fact, the season for picking Torreya grandis has passed by the end of November, but there is a Torreya grandis Culture Museum in the park where you can take a look and learn about the shapes and differences of various Torreya grandis.

Torreya grandis Forest Park boasts picturesque scenery and numerous scenic spots, including the charming Huang Siniang Pond and Huangtan Creek. Walking around and breathing in the fresh air is truly enjoyable. There's also a suspension bridge within the park, which those with the courage and interest can explore.

The entire park is rich in vegetation. Late autumn is the most beautiful time for ginkgo trees, and you can also go and admire the golden ginkgo leaves.

gourmet food

Xianheng Hotel

A trip to Shaoxing is impossible without checking out the Xianheng Hotel. It turns out the Xianheng Hotel was owned by Lu Xun's family—I hadn't known that before. The hotel is quite nice, with a statue of Kong Yiji at the entrance and an IOU for 19 cents hanging on the counter inside—quite interesting. The restaurant's decor is also quite stylish, with traditional Shaoxing tables, a bit small for modern people. Even with just eight people, it feels packed and there's not enough room for the food.

The tableware at the Xianheng Hotel is also very distinctive, with the Xianheng logo on them. Even the wooden barrels for holding rice look very antique.

Shaoxing cuisine is known for its salty and stinky flavors. Everyone's tried stinky tofu, but not everyone can stomach stale vegetables. I find it hard to swallow. The fennel beans, which Kong Yiji once ate, are also a must-try. This restaurant's dishes are quite strong, with many being quite salty. Those with a light palate might find them unaccustomed. Fortunately, as a Shaoxing woman, I can handle this level of saltiness. This is the true Shaoxing flavor.

Guyue Longshan Restaurant

When you come to Shaoxing, the rice wine town, how can you miss tasting the rice wine here? I only knew that Gu Yue Longshan was a famous rice wine brand before, but it turns out that it also opened a restaurant. The decoration of the restaurant is very much in the style of a winery, with many rice wine jars as decoration.

Since I'm at Guyue Longshan, I had to try some of their rice wine. I tried a variety of them, and this time I tried six. As someone who doesn't drink, I prefer white rice wine, but connoisseurs should be able to taste the differences. As a restaurant owned by a winery, even the cold dish, drunken dates, seemed a bit more intoxicating than what you'd find at other restaurants. The rice wine paired with Shaoxing specialties like drunken dried fish, stinky tofu, fennel beans, and braised pork with preserved mustard greens is the most authentic way to enjoy it. It was a very satisfying meal.

In addition, we also went to two restaurants that are not very famous but have a good reputation in Shaoxing. Locals also often eat in these two restaurants. No matter which one you eat at, fried stinky tofu, drunken dried fish and pork with preserved vegetables are indispensable. It seems that these dishes are deeply imprinted in the genes of Shaoxing people. Real Shaoxing people cannot live without stinky tofu for a day, and cannot live without pickled products such as preserved vegetables and dried fish.

Bo Ying Hotel

Fengguang Hotel

In Miguoguo Town in Zhuji, we ate local farm-style dishes. The portions were generous and the taste was very authentic.

Among them, pitaya rice cake is the specialty of Miguoguo Town.

snack

Although stinky tofu is served in almost every meal in restaurants, I always feel that the stinky tofu fried on the street is the most authentic, so we bought some stinky tofu to eat in Anchang Ancient Town.

Shaoxing's rice wine is also very famous, so there are many snacks made with it, such as rice wine popsicles and rice wine milk tea. It is said that the most famous rice wine milk tea is produced by a shop called "Jinghuixuan" opened by three young people near the Luxun hometown scenic area. This shop has become an online celebrity, and young people visiting Shaoxing often check in to taste it.

However, people in Shaoxing are quite laid-back by nature, leaving get off work around 5 or 6 in the evening. This shop is no different, closing promptly every evening. Although I went to the Xianheng Hotel that night hoping to try my luck, I ultimately returned home disappointed. I did manage to buy some rice wine popsicles, though. Despite the name, they weren't as intoxicating as I'd imagined. They were sweet and sticky, with a hint of wine aroma, and they were quite good.

stay

Shaoxing is a prosperous small city, and of course, it has many mid-range and high-end hotels. However, when it comes to living at home, it's always better to live within your means. This time, I personally think the hotel we stayed in was very cost-effective, and I'm very satisfied.

Kaiyuan Manju Dayu Store

Kaiyuan Manju, a brand under the Kaiyuan Group, offers affordable yet comfortable accommodations. There are several Kaiyuan Manju hotels in Shaoxing, and this time we stayed at the Dayu branch. Shaoxing, a city renowned for its literary talent and numerous celebrities, is also steeped in cultural heritage.

The lobby on the first floor has a very high ceiling and is decorated with cultural products that have Chinese and Shaoxing characteristics, giving it a strong Chinese flavor.

The hotel places great emphasis on security and privacy; elevator access requires a room card. Our room was on the seventh floor. Kaiyuan Manju's guest rooms are generally not very large, but this doesn't compromise their comfort. The main colors of the room are beige, gray, and camel, creating a bright, simple decor that doesn't interfere with daily use and creates a relaxing atmosphere.

Many Chinese elements are also used in the decoration of the guest rooms.

Compared to the guest rooms, the bathroom at Kaiyuan Manju is quite large, with a separate wet and dry area for easy use. The bathrobes are different colors to make it easier for guests to distinguish them, a testament to the hotel's thoughtful design.

The hotel restaurant is on the second floor. For a Chinese palate like mine, the freshly cooked noodles and wontons are a truly satisfying meal. Breakfast also features a variety of Shaoxing specialties, such as braised pork with preserved mustard greens and pickled fish, allowing visitors to sample local delicacies without leaving the hotel. This is a must-see. Bread, jam, drinks, yogurt, and more are also available, ensuring every guest has something to suit their taste.

Conclusion

Our three-day, two-night trip to Shaoxing has come to an end. It's a city that offers a sense of tranquility, with residents taking their time, and not much nightlife. However, I think the city's rich cultural heritage is worth a visit, especially with children, who can experience the feeling of traveling through Shaoxing as if they were following a textbook. Furthermore, Shaoxing now has many entertainment venues suitable for children, which adds to the variety of options for travelers.