Live Your Best Lives
The Balkan Peninsula, along with the Iberian Peninsula (home to Spain and Portugal) and the Apennine Peninsula (home to Italy), is considered one of Southern Europe's three major peninsulas. Compared to the other two, the Balkan Peninsula is somewhat more mysterious. Although once rife with conflict, it is now a remarkably different place, boasting not only unique cultural customs but also breathtaking natural scenery. With several countries in the Balkan Peninsula offering visa-free or conditional visa-free travel, the Balkan Peninsula, with its sparse populations and beautiful scenery, is a prime destination for spontaneous European adventures.
This itinerary is a three-country self-drive tour, starting in Belgrade, Serbia, and continuing on to Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina for a 13-day drive, concluding in Belgrade. Therefore, the tickets are round-trip flights to Belgrade. Major European and Middle Eastern airlines offer flights to Belgrade, including Etihad Airways, Aeroflot, Turkish Airlines, and Qatar Airways. All flights require connecting flights. When booking, pay attention to information about connecting flights and through baggage check-in. Choose an airline based on your needs. Hainan Airlines officially launched direct flights from Beijing to Belgrade on September 15, 2017. However, due to poor operational performance, the direct service was canceled starting November 26, 2018. Therefore, all domestic flights to Belgrade are connecting flights.
13 days, nearly 2,000 kilometers of self-driving itinerary planning
The first European country in history to grant visa-free access to China was actually the Republic of San Marino. However, although it has visa-free access to China, it is surrounded by Italian territory. To go there, one must first enter Italy and actually still need to apply for a Schengen visa, so visa-free access has no practical significance for us.
However, since January 15, 2017, Serbia's visa-free policy for China has come into effect. Serbia has become the first European country to truly offer visa-free entry to us, opening the door for us to various Balkan countries.
While Montenegro is still not a visa-free country for Chinese citizens, it has implemented visa facilitation measures for Chinese citizens. Citizens of the People's Republic of China holding ordinary passports traveling as a group can enter and transit Montenegro visa-free for a stay of up to 30 days, presenting paid itinerary, proof of transportation back to China or to a third country, and other documentation issued by a travel agency. Group tours refer to tours organized by travel agencies from China and Montenegro that have signed a Montenegrin tourism market access agreement. Holders of two or more valid Schengen, US, UK, or Irish visas or residence permits also enjoy visa-free entry and a stay of up to 30 days. On this trip, we all entered Montenegro by land using US visas, and we personally tested both activated and unactivated US visas, without the need for an EVUS enrollment form.
When we first planned our trip, Bosnia and Herzegovina hadn't implemented a visa-free policy. However, even before that, we could simply apply for a visa at the Bosnian Consulate in Belgrade, which took one business day to issue. Unexpectedly, a week before our departure, on May 29, 2018, Bosnia and Herzegovina's visa-free policy for Chinese citizens officially took effect, giving us our first taste of visa-free travel.
The three countries are 6 hours behind China in summer time and 7 hours behind China in winter time.
Serbia: The RSD (Dinar) is equivalent to approximately 0.065 CNY. Cash withdrawals are available at ATMs upon arrival at the Serbian airport, but currently, UnionPay withdrawals are not accepted, only VISA and MasterCard. Alternatively, you can exchange euros in China and then exchange them for dinars at an exchange point within Serbia.
Montenegro: Euro (EUR), approximately 1EUR equals 7.728CNY. The Euro is the currency of choice in Montenegro, and because of this, Montenegro has the highest consumption level of the three countries.
Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mark BAM, 1 BAM is approximately equal to 3.946 CNY
Serbian phone cards cost 300 dinars each and are valid for 7 days. After inserting the card, you'll need to recharge to extend the validity period. However, there's no signal when traveling across borders. If necessary, we recommend subscribing to a mobile overseas data plan.
The luggage conveyor belt is decorated with car butts, which is a bit cute
The Balkan Peninsula is rife with mountainous roads, making intercity public transportation underdeveloped and international shuttles even more difficult to access. Many scenic spots are hidden deep in the mountains and wilderness, making public transportation even more difficult to reach. Therefore, besides traveling with a tour group, self-driving is the best option for traveling in the Balkan Peninsula. Driving habits in all three countries are left-hand drive and right-hand traffic, just like in my country.
We chose Europcar, a large European car rental company, in advance on a domestic car rental platform to rent a Mercedes-Benz V-class MVP. When renting the car, we noted in advance the countries we needed to transit through. After arriving at the airport, we went directly to the car rental company counter, presented the car rental reservation form, original passport and driver's license, translated driver's license, and used our credit card for pre-authorization as a deposit. The pre-authorization was returned when we returned the car, and we only had to pay the cross-border fee when we returned the car.
We also recommend purchasing supplemental comprehensive insurance when renting a car, which not only covers roadside assistance but also chassis, glass, and other damage. Our friend accidentally scratched the car while on the road. Upon returning the car, the staff first verified the repair costs, requiring us to pay them on the spot. Upon returning home, we provided receipts and a credit card bill for the full reimbursement. (A small scratch can cost over 10,000 RMB to repair, so saving a small amount on insurance is a huge loss. Therefore, it's highly recommended that you purchase insurance.)
This V-class seven-seater MVP is relatively rare in China, and I was concerned about its space before setting off. After picking it up, I found it was more than enough for six people, with six 25- and 26-inch suitcases in the trunk. Both the ride and the driving experience were excellent, and it was rock-solid even at 160 mph on the highway. I highly recommend this car for group road trips.
Their eating habits are similar to those of most European countries, primarily focusing on Western cuisine. They emphasize the presence of condiments on the table and the rich, caramelized aroma of their dishes. They generally dislike salty flavors, preferring slightly sour flavors. Noodles are their primary staple, with potatoes also a common staple. They enjoy beef, lamb, pork, chicken, duck, fish, shrimp, sausage, sea cucumber, and eggs. They also enjoy vegetables like tomatoes, bell peppers, lettuce, peas, onions, cauliflower, and sauerkraut. They prefer seasonings like onions, garlic, chili peppers, pepper, and butter. They favor cooking methods such as pan-frying, stir-frying, deep-frying, baking, roasting, and grilling. As long as you're not overly picky, these dishes are generally acceptable.
I won’t recommend restaurants one by one here. You can download the TripAdvisor app and choose a restaurant based on the recommendations. Generally, the top ones taste very good.
They also enjoy drinking, especially wine, and coffee. From large wineries to roadside stalls and even major monasteries, they all have excellent value for money. So much so that even I, a heavy drinker with an allergy to alcohol, needed medication several times during this trip to alleviate my allergies.
While Serbia might not immediately come to mind, you certainly remember the thrilling women's volleyball match between China and Serbia at the 2016 Rio Olympics. For older generations, Serbia is a country with a troubled past, a historically battleground. The 1999 NATO bombing of the Yugoslav embassy took place here. It's a country that blends ancient and modern, traditional and exotic.
Serbia is a landlocked country located in southeastern Europe, in the central Balkan Peninsula. Its total area is 88,361 square kilometers, with Belgrade as its capital. It borders Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Macedonia, and Albania, and one-fifth of the Danube, Europe's second-largest river, flows through Serbia. Serbia is also considered one of the most ecologically intact regions in Europe. In addition to the Danube, Europe's second-largest river, Serbia boasts five national parks, over 30 nature parks, and special nature reserves. It also boasts iconic 19th-century architecture, including the Church of St. Sava, the world's largest Orthodox church and one of the world's ten largest churches.
The largest Orthodox church in the world - the Church of Saint Sava
Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, is one of Europe's oldest cities and a crossroads between the West and the East, where the Sava and Danube rivers meet. Stroll through the city's heartland, including Republic Square, Koniz Mihajlova Street, and Kosancık Square. Explore the National Theatre, including the Opera House, the National Museum, the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences, the Cultural Center, numerous galleries, antique shops, and more.
Here, you can admire Serbian architecture and art, experience local life, and savor its cuisine. Beograd is divided into two main areas: Old Beograd (Stari Beograd) and New Beograd (Novi Beograd). Most of the scenic spots are in Old Beograd, while New Beograd is primarily an economic development zone and focuses on business. The most central tourist attraction in Old Beograd is Kalemegdan Fortress, with other important attractions located within a 3-kilometer radius. Therefore, if you're driving to Beograd, consider choosing a guesthouse or hotel with free parking, so you can park your car and explore Old Beograd on foot.
Federal Parliament
St. Mark's Basilica
Knez Mihajlova Street
Kalemegdan Fortress, where the Danube and Sava rivers meet
The remains of the Chinese Embassy in Yugoslavia have been demolished to build the Belgrade Chinese Cultural Center
Western Serbia boasts enchanting scenery and captivating views, embodying much of the essence of Serbia's mountains and rivers, making it a must-see destination for tourists. Whether it's the authentic Slavic traditions of the Siló Valley, the relaxing health resort of Zlatibor, the wooden village created by the genius director Amiel, the clanking forest train that winds its way through the mountains, or the St. George's Church atop the Black Georgian Memorial Park, featuring a massive mosaic of 1,500 historical figures, the immersive experience of the visual beauty and spiritual impact is truly worth the price of admission.
However, such beautiful scenery is not easy to come by. Western Serbia is a mountainous region, with winding, narrow roads, mostly single-lane, two-way roads. Most locals don't speak English, and road signs are in Serbian. Communication signals are spotty, and navigation is prone to errors. On the way, we used the address to navigate to our homestay, but the navigation system actually took us to another city. Remember to use coordinates for your destination if they are provided.
From Belgrade to Zlatibor, the small card is similar to the one you get at the checkpoint on the highway in China.
Google misbehaved, leading us down the wrong, yet surprisingly beautiful, country road. While we were walking around, an elderly couple, who spoke little English, enthusiastically gestured to us to visit their home. They had a dog, a cat, and a garden, all meticulously maintained. They even offered us homemade cherry juice. I complimented them on the beauty of their garden flowers, and it was too late to refuse. They immediately picked a cherry each for us, their simple kindness endearing. After about an hour of gestured conversation, we hugged and said goodbye.
On the other side of the river is Bosnia and Herzegovina
Užice
The Bullet Hole Monument, located 14 kilometers from Užice, is Serbia's largest memorial to the former Yugoslavia during World War II. Its futuristic design has attracted countless tourists and photographers.
The River House is located in the Drina River in the town of Bajina Basta, Serbia. It is said to have been built by coach Milu, who led the Chinese national team to realize their 44-year World Cup dream on October 7, 2001, and several of his brothers.
Before departure, by chance, I met a Chinese brother who had lived in Serbia for many years. He said that he knew the owner of the house and if the time was right, he could arrange for us to visit the cottage and stay in Milu's old house. Unfortunately, our itinerary had already been booked and we missed this opportunity.
Tara National Park, Serbia
The "Utopia" of the genius director Emil - Wooden Village
Novi Pazar, nestled in a valley in southwestern Serbia, belongs to the Raška Canton. It is the cultural center of Serbian Bosniaks and the largest city in the Sandžak region. It is a beautiful and charming city where diverse languages and cultures converge, and it boasts numerous historical sites. The nearby Serbian Orthodox Sopočani Monastery was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.
Some call Novi Pazar "Little Istanbul" because of its distinct Turkish influence. Every morning, the minaret-adorned fortress awakens to the call to prayer. The quiet Orthodox scene is common, but you can also find a large number of Muslim women around every corner.
Stari Ras and Sopoćani Monastery are located on the east side of the Morava River, approximately 15 kilometers from Novi Pazar. They were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. Stari Ras, once Serbia's first capital, still retains some medieval architectural structures. Sopoćani Monastery exemplifies the fusion of Western and Byzantine civilizations.
The Church of the Holy Apostles, the oldest church in Serbia, was built in the 4th century AD and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Subotica belongs to the autonomous province of Vojvodina in Serbia. First mentioned in historical records in 1391, it serves as a vital transportation hub. Subotica is a charming, modern city, and many of its downtown buildings are decorated with renowned Hungarian Čonáj ceramics, lending the city a unique charm.
Near Subotica is the famous Lake Palić, which is equipped with hotels, villas, sports facilities, artificial beaches and a zoo, making it a tourist destination. Every summer, various cultural and art festivals such as the "Palić International Film Festival" are held here.
Novi Sad, a city with sadness in its name, means new farm in Serbian. It is a city in northern Serbia and also the second largest city in Serbia. During the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it was the cultural center of Serbia and was known as the Athens of Serbia.
Novi Sad is a quintessential Central European city, brimming with artistic flair and boasting numerous museums and art galleries. Historically, Novi Sad has maintained a diverse and vibrant blend of cultures and ethnicities. Freedom Square is a prime landmark, and a walk around it offers a panoramic view of Novi Sad's renowned European-style architecture. In the evening, you can watch the sunset from the castle.
Sremski Karlovci is one of Serbia's most romantic towns, situated on the banks of the Danube. In ancient times, it was a Roman fortress, first mentioned in 1308, and gradually developed into a town in 1690. During the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Sremski Karlovci gradually became the political, religious, economic, and cultural center of Serbia. This Baroque town offers beautiful scenery and a pleasant environment. Here, you can visit the famous Krusedol Monastery, visit the Honey and Wine Museum, and taste seven types of wine and three types of honey.
The romance of the Danube River is all here. Zemun, a quintessential Central European town just below Belgrade, sits on the banks of the magnificent Danube. Along the riverbank are bike paths, walking trails, green spaces, and the leisurely Belgrade residents, as well as adorable white swans. Feeding the geese by the river or chatting at one of the dockside cafes is a true delight. Standing beneath the Millennium Tower, the tallest point in Zemun, and gazing at the town's red-tiled, white-walled walls, a rich European atmosphere washes over you.
"At the dawn of the universe, the most beautiful encounter of land and sea must have been on the coast of Montenegro." By George Gordon Byron
Montenegro (Serbian: Црна Гора, meaning "Black Mountain"), also known as the Republic of Montenegro, is a mountainous country located in the southwestern Balkan Peninsula, on the eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea. Perhaps you've never heard of this country, because until 2006, it was a single country alongside Serbia, known simply as Serbia-Montenegro. Prior to 2003, Serbia-Montenegro was better known as Yugoslavia. I prefer to call it Montenegro, which sounds more romantic.
In fact, this tiny country is captivating with the call of its mountains and sea. Its beaches are as charming as the sapphire beaches in Croatia, its steep and rugged peaks are comparable to those in Switzerland, its canyons are as deep as the Grand Canyon, its squares are as elegant as the Piazza Venetian, and its towns are as ancient as those in Greece. It is surrounded by the Mediterranean climate and its area is only two-thirds the size of Wales. It seems isolated from the world, but it has a natural romantic atmosphere. It is so breathtakingly beautiful in a corner you have never heard of.
Žabljak is Montenegro's "back garden," with scenery comparable to Switzerland and New Zealand. If you're not driving, you'd miss this charming little town. Originally a stopover for a cross-border stop, it unexpectedly became a favorite stop on the trip. Žabljak, with its Swiss-inspired charm, is surrounded by mountains. It serves as the central city and transportation hub for the entire Durmitor region. It's also the highest city in the Balkans, at 1,456 meters above sea level. It's nestled in the heart of Durmitor National Park, and the tourist facilities of Durmitor National Park are all built around Žabljak.
In Žabljak, a landscape painting unfolds as soon as you open the window. The snow-capped mountains in the distance, the colorful cabins in the middle, and the meadows nearby—from far to near—are a perfectly composed painting, evoking the feeling of living in a fairytale. Žabljak is not only renowned for its beautiful scenery and pristine air, but also as Montenegro's premier ski resort, it's considered a "paradise on earth" by Montenegrins. Snow-capped peaks stretch out, lush trees crisscross the landscape, and ski slopes for all levels are available, ensuring a comfortable experience for both advanced and novice skiers. Nearby lies the Tara River Canyon, Europe's deepest canyon. This small town in northern Montenegro is surrounded by numerous lakes and peaks. Žabljak offers a unique beauty in every season, with winter and summer being the peak seasons for visitors.
Budva, a renowned tourist destination in Montenegro, is a true gem of the Adriatic coast. With its castle and cottages nestled against the backdrop of the blue sea and white boats, it evokes a relaxing and relaxing atmosphere. Though the oldest ancient city in the Balkans, the 15th-century city was devastated by a 1979 earthquake. With the exception of two churches, the city has been rebuilt by residents to its original appearance. Before the disintegration of Yugoslavia, Montenegro's tourism industry flourished, making it a popular holiday destination for Hollywood stars.
Not far from Budva, the small island of Sveti Stefan shone brightly in the 1960s, hosting the likes of Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, and Princess Margaret. Later, with the political upheaval in Yugoslavia, it fell into disrepair. Recently, Aman Resorts, recognizing the island's unique geography and Montenegro's tourism potential, has preserved the island in pristine condition, restoring it to its original state and putting Montenegro back on the map for discerning travelers.
Montenegro, a mysterious European nation that became an independent state after the breakup of Yugoslavia, is best known for the Bay of Kotor, a frequent stopover for Mediterranean cruises. Kotor, nestled in the deepest fjord in southern Europe, is one of the most intact medieval cities on the Adriatic coast and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kotor also boasts numerous historical sites, including the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, built in 1166, and the 4.5-kilometer-long city walls in the Old Town. The Bay of Kotor is dotted with numerous historic towns and pleasant beaches. Further south along the coast, numerous seaside resorts are popular with European tourists.
The small town of Perast, about 10 kilometers from Kotor, is a pearl in the Bay of Kotor. Two tiny islands off the coast attract visitors.
Montenegrins describe it this way: There are two islands, each as small as a basketball court, but miraculously, they lie almost parallel to the sea level, like two chess pieces placed by God on the surface. One of them, Our Lady of the Rocks Island, is a man-made island formed by piling up stones and shipwrecks. Legend has it that fishermen returning safely from the sea would throw a stone into a specific spot on the surface of the sea as a vow to Our Lady. Over time, this miraculously created an island, and the Our Lady of the Rocks Church on the island has become a must-see pilgrimage site. The other, smaller, natural island, Our Lady of the Rocks Island, is now a private island.
Herceg Novi is arguably the Adriatic's brightest new star, serving as the administrative, economic, and cultural center of the city, bordering Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Founded in 1382 as a commercial town (salt and silk), it was once settled by an Illyrian tribe, according to Greek records dating back to the 5th century BC. It was the first town at the entrance to Boka Bay, one of the world's most beautiful fjords, the southernmost in Europe, and the deepest in the Mediterranean.
Herceg Novi boasts a rich cultural and historical heritage and breathtaking natural landscapes. This coastal town enjoys abundant sunshine, averaging over 200 sunny days annually, with 10.7 hours of sunshine per day in July and August. The average annual temperature is 16.2°C, the same as the Mediterranean city of Naples, earning it the nickname "City of the Sun."
The temperature doesn't fluctuate much, with the average daily temperature fluctuating no more than 4°C. From Herceg Novi, you can take a boat to explore the Blue Cave, just 6 nautical miles away, or visit Mamula Island, 3.4 miles away. Boat trips cost around 15-20 euros per person. You can also spend a day exploring the nearby castle ruins.
Mamula Island has been acquired by a luxury hotel group and is planning to build a hotel on the island, so it is currently closed to visitors.
Bosnia and Herzegovina (Bosnia and Herzegovina), abbreviated as BiH, is a country on the Balkan Peninsula. Located in the central part of the former Yugoslavia, it borders Serbia, Montenegro, and Croatia. It faces Italy across the sea. Its land area is approximately 51,000 square kilometers, equivalent to one-third the size of Guangdong Province. Its capital is Sarajevo.
Bosnia and Herzegovina was once ranked number one in the world's most value-for-money travel destinations by the world-renowned travel magazine Lonely Planet. It has also been recognized as a "European Capital of Culture," "Jerusalem of Europe," and "Best Affordable Ski Resort."
Mostar was founded by the Ottoman Turks in the 15th century. It became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1878 and, after World War I, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Following Bosnia and Herzegovina's declaration of independence in 1992, Mostar was attacked by the Yugoslav Federal Army. Bosniaks and Croats defended the city, but the Federal Army and Serbs began shelling it from nearby. The subsequent conflict between Bosniaks and Croats became even more devastating, and the Old Mostar Bridge, a symbol of Mostar, spanning the Neretva River, was destroyed during this period.
After the 1994 armistice, the town began to recover in 1995, but the conflicting ethnic communities began to separate. Restoration of Mostar's Old Bridge over the Neretva River began in 2001 and was completed in the spring of 2004. In 2005, the bridge and the surrounding area were registered as a World Heritage Site. The bullet holes in the buildings are still shocking to see...
Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is perhaps a familiar city to you when you think of the city that sparked World War I, the Bosnian War, and Walter. The film "Walter Defends Sarajevo," a household name in China, was filmed here, and I'm sure many of the scenes are still vivid in your memory.
The Latin Bridge is the famous bridge where the assassination attempt in Sarajevo ignited World War I. On June 28, 1914, a young Bosnian Serb named Princip shot and killed Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir apparent of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and his wife, triggering World War I.
The Sarajevo Tunnel is a tunnel built between 1992 and 1995 during the Siege of Sarajevo in the Bosnian War. The tunnel was built by the Bosnian Army to connect the city of Sarajevo with Sarajevo Airport.
The "Sarajevo Rose" in the lower right corner depicts a brutal landscape scattered across Sarajevo after the Bosnian War. The Bosnian War, considered the worst massacre in Europe since the end of World War II, left mortar craters on the streets. To commemorate the war, the Bosnian government poured red resin and paint into the craters, naming them the Sarajevo Roses.
Finally, I have compiled a self-driving itinerary for your reference.
D1 Arrive in Belgrade - Cathedral of Saint Sava - Kalemegdan Fortress - Knez Mihajlova Street - D2 Tito's Residence - St. Mark's Church - City Hall - Federal Parliament - National Theatre - National Museum - Nikola Tesla Museum - D3 Belgrade - Užice - Riverside Cottage - Tara National Park - D4 Mileseva Monastery - UVAC Canyon - Novi Pazar - D5 Novi Pazar - Žabljak - D6 Žabljak - Budva Old Town - D7 Budva - Sveti Stefan Island - Kotor - D8 Kotor Fjord - Old Town - D9 Kotor - Perast - Herceg Novi - D10 Kotor - Mostar - Sarajevo - D11 Sarajevo - Novi Sad - Subotica - D12 Subotica - Sremski Karlovci - Belgrade - D13 Belgrade - Ruins of the Chinese Embassy in Yugoslavia - Zemun - D14 Return to China.
