Live Your Best Lives
"On the sea there are mountains full of saints and sages, made of precious stones, extremely pure and tranquil, overflowing with flowers, fruits, trees and forests, and endowed with springs, streams, and ponds." —Avatamsaka Sutra
Mount Putuo, one of China's four renowned Buddhist mountains, along with Mount Wutai in Shanxi, Mount Emei in Sichuan, and Mount Jiuhua in Anhui, is the place where Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva teaches and enlightens sentient beings. As a Zhoushan native, I made pilgrimages to the mountains with my parents as a child, and later became a sort of Zhoushan host for my university classmates and friends. I recently decided to write a travel guide to Mount Putuo to share more with others about this Buddhist paradise nestled between sea and sky.
Putuo Mountain is located in Zhoushan City, Zhejiang Province
Due to the special geographical location of the archipelago, there is currently no train service to Zhoushan.
【airplane】
Putuoshan Airport is located in Zhujiajian, very close to several scenic spots. Currently, the routes opened by Putuoshan Airport include: Beijing, Shanghai, Shantou, Xiamen, Jinjiang, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Lianyungang, Qingdao, Jinan, Dalian, Tianjin, Fuyang, Chongqing, Chengdu, Nanchang, etc.... If you are in the above cities and think the flight time and ticket price are suitable, you can choose to travel by plane.
【Hangzhou direction】
1. There are long-distance buses to Putuo from Jiubao Passenger Transport Center, East Railway Station Bus Station, and Hangzhou South Bus Station, costing around 106 yuan.
2. There are also tourist buses at the Huanglong and Wushan tourist distribution centers. The price is around 110 yuan, but the space and service are slightly better. (You can purchase tickets through the "Zizai Travel" app)
【Shanghai Direction】
1. Tourist bus from Huangpu Tourist Distribution Center, ticket price is about 150 yuan; (You can purchase tickets through the "Zizai Travel" app)
2. There are regular boats to Putuo Mountain from Shanghai Wusong Wharf at 19:30 every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. After a night's sleep, you can reach Putuo Mountain early the next morning.
【Ningbo and other directions】
Since Zhoushan currently doesn't have a train service, travelers from other areas generally need to take a train to Ningbo and then transfer to a bus. Ningbo South Bus Station is right next to Ningbo Main Station, making transfers very convenient. Buses from Ningbo South Station to Putuo (Shenjiamen) typically run every 15-30 minutes.
Those who take the long-distance bus usually get off at Chengbei Bus Station. There are many scenic spots around Putuo Mountain, so the accommodation location may vary depending on the travel plan.
[Shenjiamen]
For those who are interested in traditional fishing culture, harbor culture, food stalls, and old town nightlife, Shenjiamen Old Town is recommended.
【Donggang】
The newly built district in Putuo District has a relatively rich nightlife, complete supporting facilities, and more branded hotels.
【Zhujiajian】
If you're looking to visit other scenic spots besides Putuo Mountain, such as Nansha, Daqingshan, and Wushitang, you can stay near Zhujiajian. Zhujiajian has a well-developed tourism industry and a strong commercial atmosphere, where you can find everything from farmhouse B&Bs to high-end sea view hotels.
Putuo Mountain
For those who want to explore Putuo Mountain in depth, it is recommended to stay directly on the mountain. There are also many choices of homestays and Zen hotels on Putuo Mountain, but the prices are higher. Especially during the peak tourist season, be sure to book a room in advance.
Putuo Mountain's slogan is: "Come to Putuo Mountain when you think of it." Whether it's a day of dedicated pilgrimage or a half-month island retreat, each has its own charm. However, considering the work and vacation schedules of most people, Putuo Mountain generally recommends a 1-2 day trip:
Pier - Walk - Duangu Daotou - Walk - Nantianmen - Walk via the beach - Nanhai Guanyin - Bus (You can take the cable car up the mountain or walk up the mountain road next to Fayu Temple) - Jichan Temple - It is recommended to walk down the mountain - Fayu Temple - Bus - Puji Temple - Walk - Xitian Scenic Area - Walk - Pier.
You can plan a half-day trip to Luojia Mountain, or you can make minor adjustments to your first day's itinerary. For example, if you visit attractions like Nantianmen, Baibusha, and Dacheng Temple near the Luojia Mountain pier, your first day's itinerary will be less packed. For those who need to return early the next day, you can also choose to return after completing your half-day trip to Luojia Mountain.
If you live in the old city of Shenjiamen, you can take a speedboat directly from the Banshengdong Pier to Putuo Mountain. If you live in Donggang or Zhujiajian, you can take a ferry from the Wugongzhi Pier to Putuo Mountain. The architecture of the Wugongzhi Pier Tourist Distribution Center is very distinctive, and it somewhat imitates the Potala Palace.
Putuo Mountain has off-season and peak season. The off-season is from December to January every year, and the adult ticket price is 120 yuan/person. The peak season is from February to November every year, and the adult ticket price is 160 yuan/person.
From the first to the fifth day of the first lunar month; from May 1st to 3rd; from October 4th to October 5th, the ticket price will be increased to 180 yuan per person. After scanning the ticket, the first thing that comes into view is the entrance gate with the inscription "Putuo Holy Land".
In addition, there is a bus stop next to it. Note: There are no taxis on Putuo Mountain. If you need to go directly to Puji Temple, Fayu Temple and Foding Mountain, you can take the bus directly.
After passing the mountain gate and walking about 100 meters forward, you will arrive at the archway of "Holy Land of the South China Sea". The two couplets on the archway are very meaningful: If you have feelings, you will understand. A thousand rivers have water and a thousand moons; nothing is not covered, a thousand miles of sky is cloudless; there are two tides a day, you can listen to them come and go of their own accord; don't laugh at his ignorance and unconsciousness among thousands of mountains and stones.
【Holy Traces of Short Girl】
Legend has it that in ancient times, a sister-in-law vowed to worship Buddha. After years of hard work, they saved enough money to buy a boat and sailed across the Lotus Ocean to offer pilgrimage to the mountain. However, just as the boat docked, the sister-in-law's period began. Feeling unclean, she dared not enter the mountain to face the Buddha. The sister-in-law blamed her for not being blessed enough to make the pilgrimage, so she journeyed alone. At noon, the tide rose, pushing the boat further from shore. The sister-in-law sat alone in the boat, hungry and exhausted. Just then, a woman approached from the shore, carrying a food box. She threw stones into the tide and, using them as a step, made her way to the boat. She claimed her sister-in-law had asked her to bring the food box. Upon returning from her pilgrimage, the sister-in-law heard about this and, remembering how she had just seen the sleeve of the Bodhisattva Guanyin wet while worshipping Buddha, she had a sudden realization, realizing it was the Bodhisattva's doing. She hurried back into the mountain to kowtow before Guanyin.
Next to the Duangu Holy Site is the original wharf of Putuo Mountain. Before the modern wharf was built, ships coming and going could only dock at this small wharf.
After passing the pier leading to Luojia Mountain, you will arrive at Nantianmen Temple. Compared with the temples with multiple entrances and exits on Putuo Mountain, this may be the smallest temple on Putuo Mountain. The "Nantianmen" consists of two huge rocks facing each other, with a stone lying across them. It can probably only accommodate two people, but once you pass it, the view becomes clear.
Nantianmen is a small place, but it concentrates many stone carvings of Putuo Mountain. The most famous one is "Grand View of Mountains and Seas" inscribed by Lan Li, the governor of Dinghai during the Kangxi period of Qing Dynasty.
If you walk back a little from Nantianmen and walk along the beach, you will reach Baibusha.
Baibusha is located in the core area of the former temple. Because of its location in front of Duobao Pagoda, it is also called "Sand in front of Pagoda". Baibusha is more than 600 meters from north to south, and Qianbusha further ahead is more than 1,700 meters.
The sand of Baibusha is pure and the beach is crescent-shaped. Even if you don't go into the sea, just strolling on the beach, looking at the sparkling waves on the sea, surrounded by green mountains on both sides, and tourists playing on the beach, you can also have a pleasant time.
On the beach, there's a huge rock shaped like a stone lion, inscribed with the words "Stone Master," meaning it withstands wind and waves, possesses a steadfast will, and is a worthy teacher. Walking along the beach, you can even see the Nanhai Guanyin statue in the distance.
Mount Putuo enshrines Guanyin. From the perspective of cultural heritage, the Guanyin enshrined in Mount Putuo is called "Yangzhi Guanyin". From the perspective of regional culture, the Guanyin of Mount Putuo is also called "Purple Bamboo Guanyin". However, in orthodox classics, the Buddhist name of the Guanyin enshrined in Mount Putuo is "Nanhai Guanyin". By the end of the 20th century, the Guanyin of Mount Putuo had its own image, that is, the Guanyin Buddha.
Stepping on the square bricks engraved with lotus flowers will bring you good luck of "lotus blooming with every step".
The Nanhai Guanyin statue on Mount Putuo is a very tall standing statue, with three floors and a total height of 33 meters. The Buddha statue is 18 meters high, with Amitabha on the top of the neck, holding the Dharma wheel in his left hand and making the fearlessness seal with his right hand.
Unlike the Yangzhi Guanyin, the Nanhai Guanyin statue inherits many characteristics of the Indian Guanyin statue. It is located on the Guanyin Tiao Hill at the southern end of Shuangfeng Mountain. The hilltop rises with the peaks, surrounded by lush forests. Below the hill, the Lotus Ocean ripples with clear water, and the Chaoyin Cave rumbles with waves. Gradually, this area has become a new cultural landscape of Putuo Mountain.
On the other side of Nanhai Guanyin is "Guanyin Tiao". According to legend, Guanyin Bodhisattva came from Luojia Mountain to Putuo Mountain to establish a Dharma place. She stepped on this stone and left a footprint, so it was called "Guanyin Tiao".
Huiji Temple, the third largest temple on Putuo Mountain, sits atop Foding Mountain and is the highest monastery on the mountain. Construction began during the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty, a period of rejuvenation for Putuo Mountain. The fertility-giving Guanyin deity at Huiji Temple is said to be particularly effective, so consider praying for blessings and remember to fulfill your vows when the time comes.
To reach Huiji Temple on Foding Mountain, you can take the cable car up and down, walk along the mountain path near Fayu Temple (about 30-40 minutes one way), or alternate between a cable car trip and a walk, depending on your convenience. Along the mountain path, you can admire Putuo Mountain's ancient trees and unusual vegetation, as well as the steep peaks and unusual rocks along the way.
When you reach the stone carving of "Sea and Sky Buddhist Kingdom," you're not far from Foding Mountain. "Sea and Sky Buddhist Kingdom" was inscribed by Hou Jigao, the then-Ming Dynasty imperial commander of Zhejiang. Hou Jigao was not only a general who fought against the Japanese invaders, but also an accomplished calligrapher.
While touring Putuo Mountain, he wrote inscriptions such as "Baihua Mountain," "Pantuo Stone," and "Sea and Sky Buddhist Kingdom." His calligraphy is characterized by vigorous brushstrokes and rich ink. The inscription "Sea and Sky Buddhist Kingdom," inscribed along Xiangyun Road, is particularly profound, imbuing Putuo Mountain with a profound imagery. The metaphor of "Sea and Sky Buddhist Kingdom" couldn't be more fitting. Hou Jigao's last inscription sealed the distinction, and it has since become Putuo Mountain's prestigious moniker, a term widely known worldwide.
Almost all the major temples in Putuo Mountain offer vegetarian meals. The vegetarian food at Huiji Zen Temple is also very good. Although it is purely vegetarian, it is particularly sweet, probably because it is cooked in a large pot. The meal is served from approximately 10:30 to 11:30, and the price is 10 yuan per person. Everyone should take as much as they need. If there is not enough, you can refill it, but don't waste it.
Fayu Temple, commonly known as the "Hou Temple," is the second largest temple on Putuo Mountain. It is dedicated to the Bodhisattva Guanyin. An imperial stele in the Wanshou Imperial Stele Hall of Fayu Temple, dating from the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, reads: "This Fayu Temple is the retreat of a great official on Putuo Mountain in the South China Sea." The name of Fayu Temple is directly linked to the reign of Emperor Kangxi. In the 38th year of his reign, he bestowed the title "Fayu Zen Temple," and from then on, the temple's status steadily rose.
The release pond outside the temple
Fayu Temple boasts exquisite architecture, encompassing seven halls and thirteen rooms, with the Yuantong Hall being the most famous. According to the "Putuo Luojia Mountain Records," "The Yuantong Hall has seven rooms and fifteen pillars. ... The inscription inscribed by the Emperor Kangxi, 'Tianhua Fayu,' adorns the hall. Its roof, adorned with nine coiled dragons and yellow tiles, was bestowed upon it by the Emperor Kangxi upon the removal of the old Jinling Hall, hence the name Nine Dragons Hall."
Puji Temple ranks first among Putuo Mountain's numerous temples and monasteries, practically representing the mountain itself. Also known as the "Front Temple," Puji Temple boasts a history spanning over 1,000 years. Through successive expansions, it now boasts a total area of 15,000 square meters and 367 rooms, including pavilions, towers, halls, and dormitories. In terms of history, size, and scale, it is undoubtedly the largest temple on Putuo Mountain.
Before entering Puji Temple, you can see the Duobao Pagoda, one of the Three Treasures of Putuo Mountain, just outside the temple. Also known as the Prince's Pagoda, it is located southeast of the temple and is the oldest surviving structure on Putuo Mountain. It is also the largest surviving pagoda from the Yuan Dynasty.
In front of Puji Temple, there's a shallow lotus pond. In autumn, the lotus flowers have all faded, leaving only withered leaves floating on the surface. Opposite the temple's main gate, there are three passages across the lotus pond. The middle passage is said to have been used by the emperor, leading directly to the main gate. The eastern passage, for civil and military officials, features an arched bridge spanning the pond, known as the Yongshou Bridge. The western passage, for civilians, has a horizontal horizontal bridge across the water, facing the Yongshou Bridge.
The gate of Puji Temple is quite unique. It features a tall main gate flanked by two east and west gates. Collectively, these three gates are known as the "Three Gates of Liberation," representing "Liberation of Emptiness, Liberation of Formlessness, and Liberation of No Wish." Thus, the three gates are known as the "Gate of Emptiness," the "Gate of Formlessness," and the "Gate of No Action." Strangely, the main gate remains closed, and visitors can only exit through the two gates on its sides.
Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong once visited the temple and knocked on the door late at night, asking for lodging. A young monk replied, "The main gate of this temple is closed after dark. Please use the side gate." Emperor Qianlong replied, "Tell the abbot that a distinguished person from the capital has arrived." The young monk asked the abbot for instructions, but he replied, "The gate is only opened when the emperor arrives." He then instructed the monk to inquire. As the monk was leaving, the threshold was high, and he stumbled in his haste. Dizzy after getting up, he misspoke, saying, "Even when the emperor arrives, the gate won't be opened." Upon returning to the capital, Emperor Qianlong grew increasingly enraged. In a rage, he decreed that the gate would never be opened again. Later, the abbot interceded, and Emperor Qianlong rescinded his order, changing it to a rule that the main gate could only be opened for the emperor, upon the succession of the abbot, upon his death, or once every 60 years.
Walk 100-200 meters southwest of Puji Temple and you'll reach the entrance to the Xitian Scenic Area. Compared to the other ancient temples on Putuo Mountain, the Xitian Scenic Area offers a touch of natural charm amidst its Zen charm, including the thousand-year-old camphor tree, the Heart-shaped Rock, the Pantuo Stone, and the Two Tortoises Listening to the Dharma Stone.
The three characters "Pantuo Stone" were inscribed by Hou Jigao
It is said that these were two turtle prime ministers sent by the Dragon King of the East China Sea to listen to the Dharma, but they became so fascinated by the Dharma teachings of the great official Guanyin that they turned into stone turtles.
After passing the Ergui Tinghai Stone, continue down the mountain to reach the Guanyin Ancient Cave. Inside the cave, a stone pillar hangs down to the ground. Images of Guanyin are carved above and around the cave. Incense burns year-round, attracting a constant stream of pilgrims.
From a religious perspective, Putuo Mountain and Luojia Mountain are one, collectively known as Putuo-Luojia Mountain. However, from a natural perspective, Luojia Mountain is a separate peak, located approximately 5.3 kilometers southeast of Putuo Mountain. Its most remarkable aspect is that, from a distance, it resembles the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara lying on the surface of the sea.
A round-trip ferry ticket to Luojia Mountain, plus entrance fees to the scenic area, costs 70 yuan. Departures from Putuo Mountain Pier are at 7:00, 8:00, 9:00, 1:00, and 1:30 pm. Return departures from Luojia Mountain Pier are at 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 3:00 pm, and 3:30 pm. A two-hour itinerary is generally recommended. Ferry schedules may vary during incense-related festivals and holidays, so it's best to check ferry schedules before your trip.
Finally, a few points:
First, because many of my relatives and friends are Buddhists, I was taught not to take photos of Buddha statues from a young age, so there are very few photos of the temple interior or Buddha statues in this guide. Second, the photos in this guide are from 2009 to 2019, so please don't be offended. Third, if you think of going to Putuo Mountain, go with a sincere heart. When you think of it, go!
