Silent | 2019-12-26 | 59400

Kumano Kodo - the same hiking route from "Spirited Away," a thousand-year-old pilgrimage to the secret realm of the soul

Preface

As a UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage route, the Kumano Kodo is a global model for the preservation of both cultural heritage and the environment. The ancient trail's "Oji," shrines, and ruins remain largely intact.

Walking on the ancient road, time seems to have flown back to the Heian period in Japan. The shrines and temples scattered among the mountains are silently telling people the vicissitudes of life that took place on the ancient pilgrimage road.

Hiking the Kumano Kodo is the most direct and effective way to experience Japanese culture, so there is a saying: If you want to truly understand Japan, you must visit the Kumano Kodo.

Kumano Kodo

Basic Overview

Location: Southern Kii Peninsula, Honshu, Japan

Highlights along the route: Nachi Falls; Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine; Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine; Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine; Seigantoji Temple

Best time to hike: Spring and autumn

Mileage: more than 1,000 kilometers

Kumano Kodocheck the details

The Kumano Kodo, located in the southern Kii Peninsula of Honshu, Japan, stretches over 1,000 kilometers across Wakayama, Mie, and Nara prefectures. Along the route, you'll find numerous shrines and temples scattered among the mountains, including Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, as well as five sections of ancient trails leading to these religious complexes. The Kumano Kodo primarily encompasses the following five routes: the Kii Route (Watanabezu to Tanabe), the Obe Route (Koyasan to the Kumano Sanzan, approximately 70 km), the Nakabe Route (Tanabe to the Kumano Sanzan), the Obe Route (Tanabe to Kushimoto to the Kumano Sanzan, approximately 120 km), and the Ise Route (Ise Jingu to the Kumano Sanzan, approximately 160 km). Many of these routes were designated as National Historic Sites in 2000 as "Kumano Pilgrimage Routes" and were registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004 as part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes of the Kii Mountain Range." However, the Kii Route is not included in this registration.

Recommended month: November

314 recommendations, 501 visits

Main roads

The Kumano Kodo mainly refers to the following five roads:

Kii Road (Watanabe-Tanabe)

Small side road (Koyasan-Kumano Sanzan, about 70km)

Nakabe Road (Tanabe-Kumano Sanzan)

Obe Road (Tanabe-Kushimoto-Kumano Sanzan, approximately 120 km)

Ise Road (Ise Grand Shrine - Kumano Sanzan, about 160 km)

History of Kumano Kodo

The Kumano Kodo is the collective name for the pilgrimage routes used by ancient Japanese royalty, nobles, and the general public to reach the Kumano Three Mountains: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. These five trails stretch through Wakayama, Mie, and Nara prefectures in the southern part of the Kii Peninsula on Honshu, Japan, weaving through towering mountains, lush forests, and rural villages.

As early as 2004, the Kumano Kodo was listed as a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO (excluding the Kii Route), which shows its high cultural value.

Its influence in Japan itself is even more astonishing: the Kumano Sanzan are regarded as the origin of Japanese beliefs, Ise and Kumano on the ancient trail are two sacred places where Japan's spiritual culture originates, and Koyasan, another important node of the Kumano Kodo, is an important place of Japanese Buddhism.

The cobblestone paths of the Kumano Kodo have welcomed countless pilgrims since the 17th century. The Kumano region on Honshu's Kii Peninsula has been considered a sacred site since prehistoric times, and improved trails in the 17th century encouraged even more devotees to the area.

The Kumano Kodo is not a single trail, but a network of paths that wind through the forested Kii Mountains. During the Edo period (1603-1868), the Nakabe Road was Japan's most popular pilgrimage route. Today, you can follow a section of the route for 40 kilometers, from Nenjiri Ojisha (a minor temple) to Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine at the summit.

Hiking on the Kumano Kodo often involves passing through deep mountains and dense forests. The primeval forests along the way have been baptized by rain, dew, wind and frost for hundreds and thousands of years, and still stand tall beside the ancient trail, waiting for everyone who passes by.

Especially the 3-kilometer-long classic ancient road leading to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, which is the "gate version". It feels like entering another world when you walk in, and the towering ancient trees standing on both sides are breathtaking.

Perhaps now you'll have a better understanding of forest philosophy, the very origin of Japanese culture: Why did the Japanese philosophical critic Takeshi Umehara call forest philosophy the origin of Japanese culture? Why did he combine Japan's unique natural and cultural environment with the tenets of primitive Japanese religion, such as "mountains, rivers, grasses, and trees are all gods," "Buddhist equality," and "eternal recurrence"? As hikers, we can only speculate: perhaps his inspiration also came from the Kumano Kodo.

Millennium Pilgrimage Route

Kumano, Japan's spiritual center, has stood the test of time, with a history dating back over a thousand years. The Kumano Kodo is one of only two pilgrimage routes in the world to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the other being the Camino de Santiago in Spain). UNESCO states that "the Kumano Kodo ruins, a cultural landscape that blends Shintoism and Buddhism, preserve the enduring spirituality of the sacred mountain."

For millennia, the Kumano Mountains have been considered sacred, "a sacred place where the gods dwell." Over the past ten centuries, people from all walks of life have journeyed to the tranquil Kii Mountains, following the many pilgrimage routes to the revered Kumano Sanzan Shrine, hence the collective name "Kumano Kodo."

The magnificent Sanzan Shrine on the Kumano Kodo blends Buddhism with Japan's indigenous Shinto religion, and numerous shrines dedicated to deities are dotted along the trail, providing thoughtful resting places for walking pilgrims.

You can choose from four hiking routes along the ancient trail, or walk through the mountains and forests, or walk along the coastline, or visit the sacred mountain, or visit the ancient village, or walk through the bamboo forest, or view the rice fields, or visit the hot springs, or visit the tea house.

The same style as Spirited Away

Walking along the Kumano Kodo is like traveling back to the movie "Spirited Away". The deep and quiet ancient road, the moss-covered statues of gods, the solemn and magnificent shrine gates, the pagodas of the sacred three mountains, the coastline along the ancient road, and even the hot spring pools are all somewhat similar to "Spirited Away".

A reverent and compassionate attitude towards nature—this is perhaps the greatest reward and essence of our humanistic spirit while traversing the Camino de Santiago. Nature lovers and hikers will undoubtedly resonate with this sentiment.

As we wander the Kumano Kodo, immersed in nature, our souls are inspired and purified, and we gradually develop a reverence for nature and a sense of the sacredness of all things. "There is a true meaning here, and I have forgotten the words to express it." The significance of the pilgrimage is self-evident.

Japanese Tea Ceremony Experience

Japanese teahouses have been distributed along pilgrimage routes since ancient times. Therefore, on the Kumano Kodo, we can enjoy tea in teahouses along the way, experience the charm of Japanese tea ceremony, and find warmth and healing during the tiring journey.

The Japanese tea ceremony, embodying the principles of harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility, is a cultural and artistic practice that integrates religion, philosophy, ethics, and aesthetics. Due to its emphasis on form and process, a traditional tea ceremony can take up to four hours to complete. Let's take a look at the general process of a traditional tea ceremony.

1. Arrive at the tea room early.

2. The ritual of washing hands and mouth in a stone basin purifies the body and soul, symbolizing freedom from worldly dust.

3. After removing your shoes, return to the tea room, bow, and kneel down to wait. Once all guests are seated, the host will enter the room and greet each guest.

4. The host starts cleaning the tea set and making tea.

5. Begin tea tasting. The host presents the tea bowl to each guest in turn. When it's your turn, simply accept the bowl, bow your head, and hold it high as a sign of respect for the host. Admire the bowl and rotate it to avoid drinking from the front. Take a sip and compliment the host on the tea. After a few sips, wipe the rim of the bowl and pass it to the next guest. And so on, until the last guest returns the bowl to the host.

6. Next, the guest will receive a bowl of thin tea. This is a more relaxed moment in the tea ceremony, allowing guests to chat with one another. The host will then collect the tea utensils and clean them in front of the guests. After cleaning, the guest is asked to inspect the tea utensils used in the ceremony as a sign of respect and gratitude to the host. Once finished, the host will collect the tea utensils and conclude the tea ceremony.

Heal your tiredness with a hot spring bath

Pilgrims often visit the hot springs along the Kumano Kodo, a haven not only for travel fatigue but also for spiritual and mental cleansing rituals and delicious hot spring cuisine.

Don’t forget to get your Kumano Kodo hiking certificate stamped.

The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route in Japan and the Camino de Santiago in Spain are the only two pilgrimage routes in the world to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After completing the Camino de Santiago in Spain, present your Kumano Kodo Hiking Certificate and receive a special certificate, congratulating you on completing your global pilgrimage!

Hiking Tips

1. Most of the Kumano Kodo's guesthouses are located in mountain villages, so they're rarely available on Booking.com or Airbnb. Most must be booked through the Kumano Kodo official website. All other hiking accommodations along the Nakabe Trail, with the exception of Tanabe City, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha, can only be booked through the Kumano Kodo official website. It's important to note that all hotel reservations must be made at least seven days in advance. During peak season, reservations should be made as early as January.

2. Although most sections of the Kumano Kodo pass through dense jungles, there are still some sections that are national highways, prefectural roads, etc., so you must take good sun protection measures to prevent sunburn. Sunglasses, gloves, long-sleeved quick-drying clothes, hats and even sunscreen are necessary.

3. There are many stones along the Kumano Kodo. The small stones are very slippery and the large stones are very painful. It is recommended to wear hiking shoes and bring some Band-Aids or plasters to prevent your feet from being rubbed.

4. There are many long downhill sections on the Kumano Kodo, which are very steep and slippery. It is recommended to bring a walking stick and knee pads to prevent slipping and injury.

5. Most of the guesthouses on the ancient trail and the lodgings on Mount Koya do not accept credit cards and can only be paid in cash. It is recommended to bring enough cash.

Other classic hiking routes in Japan

Kamakura (Daibutsu) Great Buddha Hike

The 11.4-meter-tall bronze statue of the Buddha at Kotoku-in Temple is a landmark of Kamakura. It's said to have been erected in 1252 and originally enshrined within a vast hall. However, the hall was destroyed by the 1498 tsunami, and ever since then, the statue has gazed down upon the world, its head resting on the ground and its head resting on the sky.

There's a 3-kilometer hike from Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha, which takes about 1.5 hours. Along the way, you'll find several tranquil temples and shrines, including the Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine, which is believed to bring good fortune.

It is said that the spring water in the Zeniarai Benzai Tenyu Kafuku Shrine has the power to increase wealth, and washing money in it will double the amount.

Tips:

Starting point: Jingzhi Temple

Duration: 1.5 hours

One-way distance: 3 km

Difficulty: Beginner

Traveling across four countries

"Walk 1,400 kilometers, cross four ancient Japanese countries, visit 88 temples, and witness 1,200 years of history." "Henro" means "to worship, to make a pilgrimage," and "Shikoku Henro" is the Japanese name for the pilgrimage to the 88 Buddhist temples on Shikoku Island.

This route originated from the apology journey of a greedy and cruel rich man named Saburo Emon. After his eight sons died of illness one after another, he felt extremely remorseful for his past evil deeds. He searched for the wandering monk he had hurt and was finally saved.

The most significant difference between Shikoku Pilgrimage and other pilgrimage routes lies in its origins as a journey of atonement. According to legend, pilgrims on this route must wear specific attire, similar to shrouds, and undertake their pilgrimage with the intention of preparing for death. It is said that approximately 300,000 people complete the Shikoku Pilgrimage each year, visiting 88 temples and ultimately achieving spiritual rebirth.

Tips:

Starting point: Faran Temple

Total length of the line: 1,400 kilometers

Difficulty: Advanced

Hiking in the Northern Alps

The Japan Alps, named for their majestic, Alpine-like beauty, offer breathtaking scenery and easy access. Even novice hikers can reach peaks over 3,000 meters and gaze upon the surrounding mountains.

The Japanese Alps can be divided into three sections: central, southern, and northern. The Northern Alps are the most popular among outdoor enthusiasts. Also known as the Hida Mountains, the Northern Alps are located within Chubu Sangaku National Park, a Y-shaped volcanic mountain range that spans Toyama, Nagano, and Gifu prefectures.

The northern spur, based at the Tateyama summit, is best started at Murodō on the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route. The southern spur is best started at the resort of Kamikōchi, at the base of the Y-shaped mountain range. The northeastern route of the Y can be started from Hakuba, the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. This ski resort is particularly beautiful in autumn and is also a great destination for onsen enthusiasts.

Northern Alps Hiking Trail - Tateyama Kurobe Line

The Tateyama Kurobe Route is a classic descent of the Northern Alps, offering unique scenery throughout the year. Summer and autumn are the best seasons for hiking, with the mountains in bloom and autumn leaves resembling a painting. The Murodo and Daikanbo scenery from September to October is a must-see in the Northern Alps.

Murodo is the highest point on this hike, and there are many ways to reach it: you can walk here like a professional hiker, or take the Tateyama Ropeway to overlook the mountains and the 186-meter-high Kurobe Dam.

The Northern Alps enjoy pleasant temperatures from June to September, but temperatures can be quite cold before and after this period. Winds can also be a challenge for hikers, especially during the summer. A single layer of clothing is sufficient for hiking in the summer, but warmer layers like sweaters are recommended for spring and autumn hikes.

There are hotels and mountain guesthouses near the Northern Alps where you can stay overnight. You can even camp near Kurodo and immerse yourself in the natural scenery around the clock.

Tips:

Starting point: Baima Village

Duration: 3 days (7-8 hours/day)

Difficulty: Advanced

Hokkaido Volcano Hiking

Daisetsuzan National Park is Japan's largest natural park. It was established in 1934 and covers an area of ​​more than 2,300 square kilometers. Daisetsuzan in Japanese means "active volcano".

This is a fantastic hiking destination, with the park rarely inhabited, home to deer and brown bears, hidden hot springs, beautiful lakes, and lush forests. You can choose to stay overnight in a nearby hot spring village, with Asahi Onsen and Kogen Onsen both being popular destinations.

Sapporo, host of the 1972 Winter Olympics, is world-famous for its ramen, beer, and annual Snow Festival held in February. In this youthful city, you can enjoy skiing, culinary delights, beer museums, and snow festivals—there's something for everyone.

Mount Fuji

Mount Fuji, Japan's highest peak at 3,776 meters, is a breathtaking sight, capped in white snow. Its iconic beauty has long been a symbol of the country and a must-see for many outdoor enthusiasts. Japanese reverence for Mount Fuji dates back to the 8th century, and today, approximately 300,000 people reach its summit each year.

There's a Japanese proverb that says, "He who climbs Mount Fuji once is a wise man, but he who climbs it twice is a fool." Mount Fuji on a clear morning is indeed magnificent, but its beauty is also built on an extremely difficult climb. During climbing season, the route becomes even more difficult due to congestion.

Looking at Mount Fuji up close, the climbing path is particularly barren and desolate, far from the beautiful scenery when looking at it from a distance - this may be a disappointment, but conquering Mount Fuji itself is a very beautiful thing.

Okinawa and the Southwestern Islands

The Southwest Islands, a collective name for Japan's South Sea archipelago, comprise several island chains far from the mainland. These islands, with their beautiful coral fringes, retain the relaxed pace of life and unique culture of the former Lekki Kingdom—a secluded paradise compared to the bustling cities of Japan.

Since World War II, Okinawa, the region's largest island, has been home to several of the United States' most important military installations in the Pacific. Consequently, it has become a focal point for conflict and the venue for important East-West encounters. Today, Okinawa's bustling capital and resorts are a major attraction in Japan, drawing tourists from around the world.

If you're looking to experience natural beauty, the Southwest Islands are a must-see! These islands boast breathtaking beauty and a diverse array of unique features: from towering peaks to turquoise waters and soft white sand; from magnificent corals to mysterious mangroves—the beauty of the islands awaits your discovery!