Side Dish Journey Stories | 2020-04-30 | 33500

A day trip to Kunming city, walking through Kunming Old Street and climbing to the top of Xishan Mountain overlooking Dianchi Lake

Preface

Like most people, I used to think of Kunming as a transit point between Yunnan and other cities. I'd been to and from so many places, but each time I'd never spared much time for the city itself, rushing in and out. Now that I have a rare opportunity to spend more time in this city, I figured I'd really appreciate experiencing this city, where spring is the norm all year round, and the dusty memories of Kunming etched in its old alleys.

Spring in Kunming

Kunming Old Street

Counting the cultural imprints of a city

Every city has its own history and roots, and Kunming is no exception. With nearly 2,000 years of history, Kunming Old Street has become a unique cultural imprint for Kunming residents.

Historically, this place was a traditional residential settlement during the Ming and Qing dynasties, with 6 streets and 15 alleys. Cars and horses moved slowly, and the ancient streets, alleys, buildings, and gatehouses were full of a sense of time.

With the intensification of urban expansion and modernization, old neighborhoods are constantly being demolished and new buildings are springing up. The traces of the old streets have become increasingly blurred.

Since 2014, Kunming has begun a campaign to restore and preserve its ancient architecture. From Tongren Street to Nanqiang Street, and from Longtou Street to Longquan Ancient Town, each has been repaired or rebuilt, bringing the historical and cultural value of the old streets back to the public's attention.

The renovated Kunming Old Street is now a core component of Kunming's historic and cultural heritage, representing the city's authentic old neighborhood. It has become an indelible cultural imprint for modern Kunming residents, both in terms of both material and intangible cultural heritage.

📕Inside Highlights

1. Former Residence of Wang Chi

This is a traditional building built during the Republic of China period. It is the former residence of Wang Chi, the King of Money. Wang Chi, who made money all his life, accumulated wealth through profit. With his amazing business talent and unremitting efforts, he finally became a generation of King of Money.

2. Ma Family Courtyard

Located at No. 4 Qianwang Street in Kunming's Old Street, this residence is the best-preserved example of a classic Bai ethnic minority dwelling. Also known as the "Jinlan Tea Garden," it was originally the residence of Ma Xuan, a veteran of the National Defense War, a renowned general of the Yunnan Army, and the first mayor of Kunming.

3. Fu Family Residence

Built in 1931, the Fu family residence features a traditional three-courtyard, screen-wall structure. Four-cornered pavilions adjoin the east and west wings, a characteristic feature of the residence. It is also one of the most well-preserved and distinctive buildings from the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican era in Kunming.

4. Oriental Bookstore

The original site was founded in 1926. It is the most famous bookstore in Kunming's history. Walking into the bookstore is like walking into a piece of flowing history. Hanging on the walls are black and white photos of famous people such as Lin Huiyin, Wen Yiduo, Lin Yutang, Qian Zhongshu, Hu Shi, etc., as well as a series of collectible editions of books. It is one of the most popular bookstores in Kunming but it still maintains its original intention.

5. Nie Er's Former Residence

The building has a wooden structure on the first and second floors, and a two-story earthen structure house. It is said that Nie Er was born here and spent most of his childhood here. Until he was 18 years old, Nie Er left Kunming to study and never returned.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free

📍Detailed address: Old Street, west of Zhengyi Road, Wuhua District, Kunming City

🕘Visiting time: All day

Oriental Bookstore

The Independent Bookstore That Doesn't Sell and Its Past in Kunming

When you come to Kunming, you will always be attracted by an antique bookstore. When you pass by the door, you will unconsciously want to go in and take a rest. It is the Oriental Bookstore, a famous bookstore in Kunming's history. It is also one of the most popular bookstores in Kunming but it still maintains its original intention.

The original site of Oriental Bookstore was established in 1926. It is the most famous bookstore in Kunming's history. The owner is Mr. Wang Sishun, a native of Kunming and a graduate of the English Department of Peking University. In 1919, the May Fourth Movement broke out. As a young man deeply influenced by progressive ideas, Mr. Wang Sishun founded the Oriental Bookstore after returning to Kunming after graduation.

Rather than calling it a bookstore, it's more like a vast library for scholars and literati. During the Anti-Japanese War, when access to books was blocked and even cut off, scholars from all walks of life flocked here to exchange old books and exchange ideas. Despite the smoke of war, the exchange of ideas never ceased.

In history, many great writers such as Shen Congwen, Bing Xin, Lin Huiyin, and Wen Yiduo have visited here. Photos of these famous writers and a series of collectible books are still hung on the walls. Walking into the bookstore is like walking into a piece of flowing history.

The bookstore, rebuilt on the original site, opened in June 2018. The quaint old building adds a touch of ink to the bookstore and the old street. Ascending the building, the enchanting second floor offers a larger reading space. Oriental Bookstore, with its own unique expression, connects with its past while revealing a new dimension to its readers.

Nowadays, all the books on the shelves of bookstores are classic books from around the world, covering many aspects such as humanities, history, society, aesthetics, religion, etc., and the store has set the "eight no-sell" rules, which prohibit the sale of unofficial history, immortality, success and motivation, chicken soup for the soul, thick black strategy, etc., and thus it has attracted a large number of high-quality readers.

If you are interested, you may be able to find the books collected by the owner and his friends. The new owner here, Brandon Lee, is a young and senior media person in Kunming. Under his leadership, a series of activities such as offline salons, book signings, literary forums, etc. are often held here, which are very interesting.

If you are tired of strolling around Kunming Old Street, you might as well go into a bookstore, listen to the history of old Kunming, and feel the fragrance of ink in the old bookstore.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free

📍Detailed address: Near No. 52, Wenming Street, Wuhua District, Kunming City

🕘Opening hours: 10:00-22:00

Railway Museum

Listen to the vicissitudes of the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway over the past century

The Yunnan Railway Museum, located on Beijing Road in Kunming, has become a popular destination for train enthusiasts since its opening in 2004. Visitors to Kunming shouldn't miss this opportunity to hear about the century-long history of the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway.

The museum was built using the waiting room of Kunming North Railway Station. The yellow house retains the appearance of the former railway station, which is novel and unique.

The 3,176-square-meter exhibition hall showcases the history of Kunming's railway development, particularly its meter-gauge railway artifacts. Among them is a French Michelin diesel-powered train, designated a national first-class cultural relic. This high-end business train, with rubber tires, entered service in 1914 and was used exclusively by senior Chinese and French officials.

The Railway Museum is the only thematic museum in my country so far that focuses on the history of local railway development. The exhibition hall displays more than 9,500 old photos, documents and other historical materials related to the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway, including passenger carriages, freight carriages and other locomotive parts that ran on the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway at that time.

As a witness to the history of old China and an indelible page in Yunnan's modern history, it also uses advanced visual techniques to show the century-long vicissitudes of this section of railway, which is very visual.

If you have boys at home, you must come here. It is really suitable for parent-child travel. It is like an amusement park. Most little boys love all kinds of trains.

About the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway: It was built by French colonialists. The meter-gauge railway from Kunming to Hekou began construction in 1903 and was officially put into operation in 1910. Due to its arduous and grand construction and its operation history that spans the ages, it has accumulated rich historical and cultural resources.

About the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway: It was built by French colonialists. The meter-gauge railway from Kunming to Hekou began construction in 1903 and was officially put into operation in 1910. Due to its arduous and grand construction and its operation history that spans the ages, it has accumulated rich historical and cultural resources.

Tips:

🎫Ticket: 10 yuan

📍Detailed address: No. 913, Beijing Road, Kunming

🚗Transportation Guide: Take bus No. 23/61/71/236 and get off at North Railway Station or take Metro Line 2 to North Railway Station

🕘Opening hours: Wednesday-Sunday 9:00-16:00

Tea Culture Museum

A good place for Kunming people to drink tea and listen to opera

If you want to find a good place to drink tea, listen to operas and watch performances near Kunming Old Street, then the Yunnan Tea Culture Museum on Qianwang Street must be a rare and good place.

The Yunnan Tea Culture Museum is located at No. 86, Qianwang Street, Wuhua District. It was unveiled in February 2019. It has created an art center that integrates tea culture and diverse arts around tea culture, traditional opera performances, chess, calligraphy and painting. At the same time, it has created a tranquil and comfortable tea art space for the public, becoming a rare folk window for promoting Yunnan tea culture.

The exhibition hall is not big, but it is very rich. It houses more than 300 kinds of rare Pu'er tea samples, old Pu'er tea, and ancient tree tea. The oldest tea in the collection can be traced back to the 1920s, spanning a century and is of great historical value.

At the same time, the museum also displays Pu'er tea utensils and tea sets from Yunnan throughout the ages, which are rarely seen outside. Exhibits and state gifts that have represented Yunnan Province in major international events such as the 2008 Beijing Olympics and the 2010 Shanghai World Expo are also displayed here.

In addition to the exhibition, the museum also provides visitors with Yunnan Pu'er tea art, tea culture knowledge and interactive experiences. If you are interested in tea culture, I believe you will love this place.

By the way, friends who need to give gifts can choose their favorite tea here. There are so many styles and varieties that you will be dazzled.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free

📍Detailed address: No. 86, Qianwang Street, Wuhua District, Kunming City

🕘Opening hours: 10:00-21:00

Nie Er's Former Residence

Tracing the youthful traces of a generation of people's music masters

Many old houses in Kunming's old streets are quite historical. Nie Er's former residence on Yongdao Street is one of them. It is also one of the few good places to trace the memories of Mr. Nie Er's youth and feel the broad mind of a generation of people's musicians.

Nie Er's former residence is located on the official road in front of the former Yunnan-Guizhou Governor's Office, now at No. 73-74 Yongdao Street. Walking north from the Jingxing Street Flower and Bird Market, or entering from Guanghua Street or Wenmiao Street, you can see this two-story shop, facing east and west.

The interior is now open to the public free of charge. Posters of Nie Er's life story and commemorative photos are posted on the walls, and cabinets are lined with instruments he once used, such as violins and flutes, which are many traces of Nie Er's youth.

According to reports, Nie Er's father, Nie Hongyi, was a renowned Chinese medicine practitioner in Yuxi. In the late years of the Guangxu Emperor's reign, he and his wife, Peng Jikuan, moved to Kunming to practice medicine. They rented a shop on Yongdao Street in Kunming and opened the Chengchuntang Chinese medicine shop. Nie Er was born in this small shop in February 1912. He had three older brothers and two older sisters. Originally named Nie Shouxin, he was the youngest child in the family.

At that time, the Nie and Yang (landlord) families lived together in a courtyard, which was originally a Qing Dynasty official residence used as a shop. Nie Er was born there and spent most of his childhood here. Until he was 18 years old, Nie Er left Kunming and went to Shanghai to study, and began to enter the most glorious stage of his life.

Although he never returned to his hometown, his memories of Kunming, and the musical perception and talent it gave him, stayed with him throughout his life.

In July 1986, the Panlong District People's Government named the shops at No. 73 and 74 Yongdao Street as "Nie Er's Former Residence" and listed it as a district-level cultural relic protection site. It was later transferred to the jurisdiction of Wuhua District and upgraded to a provincial-level cultural relic protection site in 2003.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free

📍Detailed address: No. 72-74, Yongdao Street, Wuhua District, Kunming City

🕘Opening hours: 10:00-17:30

Dianchi Lake

I want to fly on a bicycle like a teenager

Dianchi Lake, as a national tourist resort in China, is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan, the largest lake in the southwest, and the sixth largest freshwater lake in China. It has beautiful scenery and can be said to be one of the must-visit places in Kunming. Regarding the way to play in Dianchi Lake, the most classic one is to "cycle around the lake".

In Kunming, the weather is sunny most of the time and it is like spring all year round. Cycling along the east bank by the lake is relaxing and not tiring. The scenery along the way is beautiful, and you can feed the red-billed gulls in winter.

This place is close to Daguan Park and faces Xishan Forest Park and Yunnan Ethnic Village across the water. If you have enough time, you can stop by to play and experience the multi-ethnic customs of Yunnan Province along the way.

When you come to Kunming, why not take a sunny morning or a rosy evening to ride a bike by Dianchi Lake and experience the spring-like atmosphere of Kunming all year round?

Rental tips: There is a separate bicycle rental point near the pier. External vehicles and shared bicycles are not allowed to enter. There are both single-person and multi-person models to choose from.

Recommended cycling routes: car rental site - heliport - cruise ship terminal - century-old eucalyptus forest - moving terminal - Shenniu Water Village - the best viewing point of Sleeping Beauty in Xishan. The one-way 6km plastic cycling path is also the latest upgraded characteristic cycling path built by Dianchi Lake Scenic Area. The scenery along the way is beautiful and the experience is very good.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free📍

Detailed address: Yanhu, No. 1318, Dianchi Road, Xishan District, Kunming City

🕘Opening hours: All day

Kunming Food

Creative Yunnan cuisine under the starry sky in the garden

When traveling to Kunming, you must try Yunnan cuisine. If I had to choose only one, I would recommend Eggplant Cha Cha, a creative Yunnan cuisine restaurant with many branches in Kunming.

The environment of Eggplant Cha Cha is definitely a highlight. It is a garden-style restaurant with a starry sky at the entrance. It is very romantic to dine under it and the atmosphere is particularly good. There are also private rooms inside, which are very quiet and suitable for many people.

There were quite a few people, but overall it was good. The aunties were very enthusiastic and explained the name, origin and eating method of each dish to us before serving them. Compared with other Yunnan dishes, Eggplant is better in the environment, the taste and the variety of stores. It is a very authentic Yunnan dish, especially suitable for friends who come to Kunming and want to eat Yunnan food, or for gatherings of three or five people.

🍱【Recommended dishes】

1⃣️Eggplant Cha Cha: A must-order signature dish, the eggplant is stewed until it is soft, the taste is soft, sour, spicy and refreshing, and it has only been sold for 3 yuan since it opened, which can be said to be very conscientious!

2⃣️Secret potatoes: crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with the exclusive sauce, it is really appetizing!

3⃣️Three Masters Braised Chicken: tender and delicious, the name is also very creative

4⃣️Steamed sea bass: It tastes so delicious!

5⃣️Stone pot stinky tofu: This is the first time I’ve eaten stinky tofu like this, and it tastes surprisingly good!

💰【Offer】 Group buying websites have vouchers that can be discounted by 21%, which is very cost-effective. Remember to collect it before placing an order~

Tips:

🍴Restaurant: Eggplant Chacha (Zhengyifang Branch)

📌Address: 3rd Floor, North Hall, Zhengyifang Shopping Center, Kunming

🚗Transportation: Metro Line 3, Wuyi Road Station, Exit C, about 700 meters

⏰Opening hours: 11:00-21:30

💰Average consumption: 60 yuan

Xishan

The most beautiful scenery in central Yunnan

Kunming's Xishan Scenic Area, located west of Kunming, is known as "the most scenic spot in central Yunnan." It's also known as the "Sleeping Beauty of Xishan" because it resembles a woman lying on the shore of Dianchi Lake.

The forest here is dense and the environment is fresh. You can overlook the vast Dianchi Lake when you climb to the top of the mountain. It has always been a good place for tourists to climb mountains and enjoy the scenery.

In addition to the ancient temples and palaces, the most wonderful thing in the entire Western Hills is the exquisite pavilion Longmen Scenic Spot built on the cliffs. It is also the best place to overlook the panoramic view of Dianchi Lake and Kunming city.

The Magnolia Garden, located next to the Huating Temple in Xishan, covers an area of ​​66 acres and is the largest professional magnolia garden in the country. It has 12,000 square meters of lawn and tens of thousands of flowers. Flower lovers should not miss it.

The Nanyang Overseas Chinese Mechanics Anti-Japanese War Memorial Hall is the first memorial hall in my country with the theme of the Nanyang overseas Chinese mechanics returning to China to fight against the Japanese. The display cabinets in the hall are all filled with real objects from that time. The monument outside the hall is 9 meters high, and the base is engraved with the four words "Red Son's Merit", which is of great significance.

Taihua Temple, also known as "Foyan Temple", is located on Taihua Mountain, the highest peak in the Western Hills. It was first built in 1306 AD and has experienced seven hundred years of wind and rain erosion. It was expanded and renovated many times during the Ming and Qing dynasties, but the main hall still retains the architectural style of the Yuan Dynasty. It is quiet and peaceful and worth a visit.

There is also a Xishan Ivy Art Museum in the mountains, which is an aesthetic space that combines a coffee shop, library and art gallery. If you are tired of walking, you may want to come here to read a book and rest.

Every year, the "March 3rd Playing in Xishan" is a traditional folk festival in Kunming. Many Kunming citizens gather here, singing and dancing, and it is very lively. It would be best if you can come at this time!

🚗How to get to Xishan?

1⃣️You can take the cable car near Yunnan Nationalities Village to Xishan Longmen, which costs 35 yuan per trip.

2⃣️You can take bus No. 6 from Liangjiahe, which runs every 8 minutes (06:30-19:00)

4⃣️Take bus No. 51 from No. 5 parking lot in Juhua Village directly to the entrance of the scenic area. There is a bus every 30 minutes (07:00-17:30)

5⃣️Take a tourist bus from the City Center Art Theater to Xishan, which runs every 30 minutes (08:00-16:30)

💰Ticket information

Longmen Grottoes Scenic Area: 40 RMB;

Magnolia Garden: RMB 3; Longmen Cableway (one way): RMB 25;

Sightseeing electric car (one way): 10 RMB; Eco-friendly bus (one way): 12.5 RMB

Tips:

📍Detailed address: Xishan National Scenic Area, Xishan District, Kunming City

🕘Opening hours: 8:00-17:00

Hidden Clouds·West Mountain

Hidden in the mountains, an urban utopia in the bustling city

On the way to Xishan Forest Park, I stumbled upon Yunyin Xishan, a hidden gem of a cafe and aesthetic space. It's perfect for a weekend getaway or a quiet escape from the hustle and bustle.

Yunyin Xishan is located in Xishan Forest Park, which is known as "a scenic spot in central Yunnan" on the edge of Kunming. It has a construction area of ​​more than 20,000 square meters. The planning and design of the entire space were carried out by an international first-class design team. From the functional layout, culture is used as lines to permeate every module, giving Yunyin Xishan a unique aesthetic vision.

The building we see today was transformed from the former Taihua Villa. While retaining the ancient and elegant style of the original building, it is combined with the functional design of contemporary space, giving the overall building a unique aesthetic character.

Backed by Xishan Mountain and facing Dianchi Lake, the hotel offers stunning views of the lake and the quaint eaves of Xishan Mountain. It houses a cafe, an art gallery, a Western restaurant, a Chinese restaurant, and a lecture hall for various academic exchange activities, catering to both leisure and business needs.

Next to it is the Ivy Art Museum, a private art museum hidden in the mountains, which is connected to a cafe. The museum building is integrated with the forest vegetation of Xishan Mountain, echoing the beauty of Dianchi Lake in the distance, forming a beautiful scene in itself.

Unlike most art museums, the Ivy Art Museum is actually the first private non-profit art museum in Yunnan that is built and operated in accordance with international art museum standards. It is also a public cultural service platform that integrates exhibitions, collections, research, public education, international exchanges, and cultural and creative industries.

The museum seems to focus more on Yunnan's contemporary art, ethnic cultural resources, and its commitment to discovering and cultivating young artists, and is more focused on promoting regional culture to "go global."

The exhibition hall showcases not only contemporary Chinese art from different periods, but also international art, providing Kunming residents with an excellent aesthetic space for viewing contemporary art and receiving artistic education. It also hosts occasional events and various unique cultural exhibitions, making it a must-see for those who enjoy art and fine arts.

On the basement floor of the library is a bookstore called "Yunyin Book House". It is a public library open to the public free of charge. It is also a branch of the Xishan District Library. The large floor-to-ceiling glass windows and natural wood-colored windows make the bookstore look stable and full of spirit.

If you are tired of the hustle and bustle of city life, you might as well come to Yunyin West to see an art exhibition, have a cup of coffee, listen to music and spend some quiet and leisurely time.

Tips:

🎫Tickets: Free

📍Detailed address: Opposite to Nie Er Memorial Hall, Xishan Forest Park, Kunming

🕘Visiting time: 10:00-17:30

Conclusion

This is my memory of Kunming. What is your Kunming story?