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The Hexi Corridor, enhanced by documentaries, has made Gansu province more recognizable, with its Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, Jiayuguan Pass, and the colorful Danxia formations of Zhangye. However, exploring China with China-TravelNote reveals a different side of Gansu: Wuwei at the eastern end of the Hexi Corridor, the Yugur people of southern Sunan, and the Qilian Mountains.
The 36th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (1608)
Starting from Lanzhou, passing through Baiyin and Jingtai, it takes about 2 to 3 hours to reach Yongtai Turtle City. In 2006, it was listed as a national key cultural relic protection unit.
The third issue of China National Geographic in 2010 also reported on Yongtai Turtle City from the perspective of military fortress relics.
Is this the world's last desert tortoise city, the Great Wall fortress? Or perhaps a "Little Loulan" that flourished during war and perished amidst the changing natural environment? So, let's begin our exploration of the ancient city of Leitai Han Tombs by looking at the most popular Yongtai Ancient City: its bird's-eye view—a tortoise.
In the 36th year of Wanli's reign, the ancient city of Yongtai was completed. Even after 400 years of ups and downs, it still maintains its original form.
There are watchtowers built on the four east, west, south and north barbicans. There were originally cannons on each of the 12 battlements. There are also parapets and battlements on the city walls. Even if you enter the city, the internal roads are not well-connected. There are many T-junctions, which can greatly slow down the pace of war.
Such a large city has never been breached. It has a circumference of 1,700 meters and a height of 12 meters, all built with rammed earth. It was originally equipped with the Great Wall, barracks, training grounds, gunpowder fields, arsenals, fodder fields, horse farms, etc. It is known as "a textbook example of ancient Chinese military fortresses."
Late Eastern Han Dynasty (186 AD)
We continued heading north. In the 1970s, members of the Wuwei Xinxian Commune Brigade accidentally discovered an Eastern Han Dynasty tomb while digging an air-raid shelter.
An exquisite bronze artifact was unearthed in the tomb, which was temporarily called the "Bronze Galloping Horse" at that time. Two years later, when Mr. Guo Moruo was accompanying Cambodian foreign guests on a visit, he admired its ingenuity and renamed it "Horse Stepping on Flying Swallow".
There was a description in "Ode to the Eastern Capital": "Dragons and sparrows are coiled, and the celestial horse is halfway across the Han River." "Horse Stepping on Flying Swallow" happens to be a combination of these two.
After passing through Leitai Park, you will see a high platform. On the right is the Leitai Han Tomb, which you can visit. It is divided into three rooms. The interior has been reinforced, but you need to lower your head when walking as it is sealed inside.
Above the Han tomb is a Ming Dynasty temple dedicated to the God of Thunder - Leitai Temple, so the mound here is also called Leitai (Lingjuntai). Originally there were Leizu Temple and Sanxing Doumu Temple. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Leitai Temple was built to worship the God of Thunder.
Western Han Dynasty (121 BC)
If the bronze ware of Horse Stepping on Flying Swallow is amazing, then the land that breeds art is Shandan. This grassland established by Huo Qubing became the largest military horse farm in Asia and was used for more than 2,000 years.
The Shandan grassland is like an emerald under the Qilian Mountains. It covers a large area. We came to the Shandan Military Horse Farm. In addition, there are 2 to 4 other farms in Shandan.
This division is because military horses were a state-owned industry in the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, and there seems to have been not much change until now. Military horses gallop under the towering snow-capped mountains, and the canyons and lakes remain in their original state.
Then we must have a "horse racing" experience. Shandan has specially trained and gentle horses where you can experience equestrianism.
Use the reins to control the direction of the horse and simple movements to control the movement. You can imagine that you have just got your driver's license and are driving on the road at a speed of 20 yards, feeling excited and nervous.
Our route went around the shore of Luanniao Lake. The "Shandan Military Horses" were resting on our side. There were not many people on the road, and occasionally large agricultural machinery would pass by.
In addition to Junma, there is also a reservoir (Xidahe Reservoir) in Shandan, also known as Luanniao Lake, which is the lake on the other side of us. Away from the city, the lake water becomes very clear and looks like a blue gem in autumn and winter.
There is an ancient Luanniao city in Huyuan. Except for professional researchers, there is no more information about this city on the Internet. It lives with cattle and sheep in Shandan, which is hard to describe.
On the way back, we happened to encounter a military horse farm. Unlike our saddled horses, the galloping Pegasus looked quite heroic.
Yaks are the third species of herd animals on the plateau grasslands. Between the town where Junmayi is located and Luanniao Lake lies Kulong Gorge, a place where yaks flock. It is said that the gorge got its name because of the numerous caves in the gorge, which make the creeks rumble through it.
Here is the Shambhala Choko Prayer Wheel, which once won the Guinness World Record as the world's largest prayer wheel.
The Yugur people believe in Tibetan Buddhism, so there is also a Tibetan temple here - Hongwan Temple.
Hongwan Temple is not located at its original site. The temples you see now were all newly built later. After the relocation, everything original in the temple has been redesigned.
The tour of Mati Temple is currently divided into two parts: Thirty-three Days and Thousand Buddha Caves. It is also a temple where Han and Tibetan Buddhism coexist and was once very popular.
The closest to the gate is the Thousand Buddha Caves, which houses a Han Buddhist temple. The grottoes on both sides were originally used to store the relics of ascetic monks. The Medicine Buddha Hall is an old relic from the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. It has been preserved through wind and rain, which is very difficult.
With its unique rock formations, pristine and beautiful snow-capped peaks, and vibrant valleys, this is a little-known secret in Sunan. Like the region's renowned scenic spots, it will eventually rise like a rising star.
You may have been to Binggou Danxia before, but Alien Valley must be a niche among the niches. Learning at the ticket office that this scenic spot has only been open for three months can prove this.
According to the online plan, this place consists of four parts: Mercury Valley, Jupiter Valley, Mars Valley, and a large number of steel ruins. The mountain roads are rugged and have preserved various landforms since the Cretaceous period.
Xuefeng Cafe (2020)
Bals, the "Alps of the East," is considered sacred by the Yugur people. A snow-capped mountain over 5,000 meters high in the Qilian Mountains, it quickly became a destination on our bucket list thanks to the recent access to the mountain.
The wind and snow on the mountain are very strong, but there is a mountaintop cafe with floor-to-ceiling windows where you can enjoy warm coffee comfortably, which is also a special experience.
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