Live Your Best Lives
As 2020 draws to a close, the word "magic" seems most fitting to describe this year. The sudden outbreak of the pandemic has disrupted everyone's lives. Unable to pursue poetry and distant places, confined to home... this is the last thing many travel enthusiasts and photography enthusiasts want to experience. Thanks to the frontline efforts of countless people going against the tide, and the perseverance and self-discipline of countless Chinese people, interprovincial travel was fully reopened on June 4th. This war without the smoke of gunpowder seems to have finally ushered in the dawn of victory.
As a deep fan of western Sichuan, when I was excitedly preparing to set off, I suddenly discovered that many attractions had been quietly closed while we were staying at home. They were once very popular, or were hidden away by the public.
Follow my footsteps to recall these once stunning scenery and cultural customs. It’s better to travel early!
There is a place in Ganzi, Sichuan: red houses and red monk hats. Red is its eternal color, and everyone who has seen it is shocked. It is Seda.
Seda Buddhist Institute, also known as Larung Gar Buddhist Institute, is located in Seda County, Ganzi, Sichuan. Since when did Seda cease to be the name of a specific county and have become synonymous with the Institute?
This was once the largest Buddhist academy in the world. This world record was created so quickly that it is full of legends: there were only 30 people when it was founded in 1980, and the number of resident practitioners reached nearly 30,000 in the past few years - and the total population of Seda County is only more than 40,000!
There is a kind of red called Seda red
Dressed in red, he cultivates his Buddhist heart. Once, red walls separated him from the world of mortals. Tens of thousands of "matchboxes" in the valley created that moving red color. Since when, this place has become an ocean of faith. The "Tsinghua University and Peking University" of the Buddhist world is the best interpretation of his status.
There is a kind of warmth called Seda night
As night falls, Seda is enveloped in a deep blue. Faint yet warm lights gradually light up from the red house, forming a river that flows through the city, guiding people.
Every night in Seda when it is quiet and everyone is asleep, looking up at the sky, under the shocking and wonderful cold starry sky, there is a warm ray of light that seems to symbolize hope.
There is a kind of white called Seda after snow
In Seda in winter, encountering a sudden snowfall is the most intoxicating scenery in the world.
The white snow falls quietly, covering the mountains, houses, roads and prayer flags. The pure white snowflakes and pure faith are a perfect match.
There is a kind of people called the monks of Seda
Some people say that Seda is a Buddhist country far away from the hustle and bustle of the world, where life is simple and ordinary.
It is said that faith cannot be seen or touched, but here, you can see, hear and feel it from the monks’ eyes and whispers.
Tips:
Today, the Serthar Buddhist Institute has undergone replanning, demolition and reconstruction, and the dismissal of practitioners from other provinces, and has become a new world.
In April 2020, the Wuming Buddhist College Committee issued another document, officially announcing that the Wuming Buddhist College would no longer be open to the public, prohibiting any outsiders or vehicles from entering, and the opening time is yet to be determined.
Half a year has passed, and the opening of Seda is still a long way off. I don’t know when I will have the opportunity again to see the thousands of “matchboxes” in the valley, the pure eyes of the monks, and the night when the brilliant stars and tiny lights complement each other.
Yachen Gar, whose full name is "Yachen Ugyen Zen Forest", is located 15 kilometers southeast of Acha Township, Baiyu County. Compared with temples that are often hundreds of years old, Yachen Gar, which was built in 1985, has built a grand Buddhist kingdom in 30 years relying solely on the power of faith.
This place is somewhat similar to Serthar Buddhist Institute, both being large monasteries of the Nyingma school and equally renowned in Tibet. However, the practitioners at Yachen Gar are mostly nuns (jongmu). The complex transportation, scarce supplies, and low tourist traffic make the practice life here more austere and pure. For example, much of the physical labor, from transporting materials to construction, is done by the nuns themselves.
Unlike the red houses built on the mountain in Seda, most of the houses for practitioners in Yachen Gar are built around the river. The thousands of small box houses used for practice were built by the practitioners themselves.
Every early morning or at sunset, smoke would fill the air around Yachen Gar, the river would reflect the golden light, and the monks’ chanting would drift in the wind, sounding like the sound of nature, touching people’s hearts.
Most of the nuns on the island are young. They gather in groups of three or four, either returning home together after classes, or washing clothes, cooking, and chatting and laughing.
When the camera passed by, most of them would pull up their Tibetan robes and turn their heads to cover their faces, while some would quietly peek out, then smile shyly and happily when they saw their own appearance in the camera.
Looking at them like this, it is difficult to describe the feelings in my heart with words and lenses. Only by coming here can you understand the persistence and tenacity, tolerance and calmness hidden behind this simplicity and hardship.
Tips:
Yachen Gar has been completely closed due to potential safety hazards in the buildings. Strict inspection points have been set up at the entrance of the monastery, prohibiting all foreign vehicles and personnel from entering. Please do not go there without permission.
Yaha Pass is located in Jiagenba Township and Gongga Mountain Township of Kangding County, Ganzi Prefecture, with an altitude of 4,568 meters. It is about 30 kilometers away from the main peak of Gongga Mountain. It is an excellent place to view the main peak of Gongga Mountain, the "King of Shu Mountains", and the Gongga Peaks. The Gongga Snow Mountain Group stretches out before your eyes without any obstruction.
Convenient transportation, with cars able to reach the pass directly, has given many people the opportunity to make the pilgrimage to Gongga Mountain. Because it is close enough to Gongga Mountain, the knife-like textures eroded by the glaciers and the perfect curves of Gongga Mountain are clearly visible.
When the weather is fine, the view of the golden mountain in the sun is incomparably beautiful.
At sunset, Mount Gongga and its satellite peaks are bathed in a dazzling golden glow. Gradually, the golden hue of the mountain gives way to red, and as the last rays of sunlight reach the main peak, the snow-capped mountains return to white, losing their golden appearance. In just fifteen minutes, neither long nor short, it feels like a lifetime.
This is also a favorite spot for stargazing enthusiasts. Far from light pollution, the air here is clear and ideal for star photography.
From April to June each year, the winter Milky Way sets, and the vibrant summer Milky Way rises from behind the snow-capped mountains, stretching across them, creating a truly dreamy scene.
Tips:
Because ignorant people drove off-road vehicles to wantonly crush and destroy Asia's largest calcified beach, Yalonggou, near Yaha Pass, the local government tried to close the Yaha Pass for three years for environmental protection. There are checkpoints at the entrance of the pass. Please do not go there without permission. We will meet again in three years!
When the old story ends, a new chapter always begins. China-TravelNote never stops exploring, and through repeated arduous field trips, many niche, unknown, and unique new spots have been discovered. Many attractions in western Sichuan that were once closed have finally opened this year!
Cuopugou is located in Cuola Township, north of Batang County, the "Sichuan-Tibet Transportation Hub". If G318 is a must-drive road in this lifetime, then Cuopugou is a must-visit place on the must-drive road.
Snow-capped mountains, grasslands, forests, lakes, temples, and a ravine can be said to condense all the beautiful scenery of the Tibetan area in western Sichuan.
Cuopu Lake is the largest of Batang's many glacial lakes. Its clear, turquoise waters reflect the sacred Mount Zhajinbo. Known as the "First Holy Lake of Kham," it's sworn to be the most beautiful in all of Batang. The magical "fish-calling" experience is not to be missed.
Tips:
Cuopugou is now officially open to the public as a 3A scenic spot. The ticket price is 100 yuan and the sightseeing bus fee is 90 yuan.
You can navigate to the Cuopugou Visitor Center (ticket sales time: 7:30-15:30), and then take a sightseeing bus for the tour
Best time to visit: May to November
A small secret place hidden by locals near Yaha Pass. Before, I only knew that it had a view comparable to Yaha Pass. Only after coming here did I realize that there was actually an alpine meadow "hanging in the sky" hidden here.
Strolling in the golden field, with forests on both sides and snow-capped mountains in front, the altitude of 4,200 meters is not low, but the dense vegetation makes us feel no lack of oxygen. We can't help but fall into this picture of "the wind blows the grass low and the cattle and sheep are seen". From here, you can also see the beautiful picture of Gongga Valley and Yalong Valley in the same frame.
The pass is still undeveloped and difficult to reach. Why not join us on the same route and have a comfortable pilgrimage to Mount Gongga?
This is another mirror of the sacred mountain, following Lengga Co and Lisuo Lake. Lengga Co is much larger than Gongga Lake. Legend has it that there are seven large lakes at the foot of Gongga Lake, like seven offerings to the Buddha. From a bird's eye view, the two lakes, one large and one small, are emerald green, like a "Maldives" hidden deep in the mountains.
Crossing a long gravel beach, we ascend to the Grand Dejie Lake and await a stunning sunrise over the golden mountain. From here, we can see the most complete and authentic western slope of Mount Gongga, a perfect combination of Zimei Pass and Lenggacuo. Like a teardrop of Mount Gongga, it shines like a diamond beneath the snow-capped mountains, creating a perfect and symmetrical reflection of Mount Gongga.
How long has it been since I really calmed down and recalled the happy moments in life? How long has it been since I stayed away from the chaotic flow of information and felt all the beautiful things around me?
At night, we set up a tent by the lake, sat under the stars, gathered around the campfire, listened to the sound of the fire dancing, the melody of the flowing lake water, looked up at the starry sky, and suddenly remembered my childhood dream.
Tips:
Guandejie Lake is hidden deep in the heart of Xiongluo Village in Shade, Kangding City. It requires a 10km hike from Xiongluo Village to reach it, which is quite difficult. It is more suitable for outdoor professionals. The recommended camping spot is near the Small Guandejie Lake. The Big Guandejie Lake is rocky and not suitable for camping.
Best time to visit: May to November
The winding mountain road and difficult accommodation conditions have always been the biggest pain points of the various viewing platforms on the east slope of Gongga Mountain. However, next year, the most classic Gongga viewing platform - Niubei Mountain is about to make a comeback.
China-TravelNote · Niubei Mountain Campground will also be completed and open next year. No more getting stuck in the mud. You can take a bus directly to the top of Niubei Mountain. No more squeezing into a large bunk bed. You can quietly enjoy the snow-capped mountains and sea of clouds in the starry sky campground. It turns out that making a pilgrimage to Mount Gongga can be so comfortable!
Tips:
Niubei Mountain is scheduled to open in mid-2021. Before that, the scenic area will be completely closed. Please do not go there without permission.
Best time to visit: All year round
One of the main reasons for the disappearance of many beautiful places is that they can no longer withstand the intrusion and pressure from foreign visitors. I hope that every traveler can maintain the spirit of the "guest" in "China-TravelNote": passing by without disturbing others, and taking away only memories and photos!
