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Nanjing, known as the "Ancient Capital of Six Dynasties and the Metropolis of Ten Dynasties," exudes the rich history and cultural atmosphere of Jinling. Even now, millennia have passed, and the past has faded with the wind, but Nanjing's mountains, rivers, streets, alleys, and even the little paths we stumble upon still tell extraordinary and legendary stories. Many fascinating places await our discovery.
△ Jiming Temple Road when cherry blossoms are in full bloom
△ Nanjing surrounded by the Ming Dynasty city wall
△ Jinling City, a city full of sycamore trees
Nanjing's historical place names, located within the city of Nanjing, are situated in the basins of Purple Mountain, Qinhuai River, and Chu River, where "Zhongshan lies like a dragon coiling around its head and Shitou like a tiger crouching on its brow." These place names originated throughout the dynasties from the pre-Qin period to the Republic of China. Nanjing, one of China's first historical and cultural cities, has been a major metropolis in southern China since ancient times. During the Six Dynasties and the early Ming Dynasty, it served as the nation's political, economic, and cultural center, boasting a flourishing industry and dense population, giving rise to a rich reservoir of place names, making it a "rich mine" of historical place names.
Purple Mountain
△ Qinhuai River
Place names are "living fossils" of history, authentic records of relevant information from various historical periods. Nanjing's old place names showcase the organic unity of nature and humanity, the solemn vicissitudes of history and the imprint of the capital, the inherited dragon and phoenix culture, the rich religious culture, the meritocracy of the imperial examination system, the aristocratic culture of luxurious mansions, the rich ancient merchant culture, the colorful common people's culture, and the distinct cultural characteristics of the Ming and Qing dynasties and the Republic of China. Therefore, Nanjing's streets and alleys are full of stories.
△ Overview of Nanjing Place Names
Nanjing is a city well-suited to being filmed, with its dense sycamore trees, clusters of Republican-era buildings, and a strong 1980s retro feel, all embodied by the word "nostalgia." Many TV series, such as "In the Name of the People" and "So Young," were filmed in Nanjing, and last year's hit "Children of the Qiao Family" once again captivated the world. These dramas feature many of Jinling's landmark buildings, familiar streets and city walls, Nanjing's unique cuisine, and the familiar Nanjing dialect, transporting viewers back to the past. Let's explore the familiar yet unfamiliar Nanjing.
△ The streets of Chengnan and the Yangtze River Bridge that appeared in the play
Then follow the camera and check in these "Nanjing streets and alleys" that appear in film and television dramas.
Set against the backdrop of thirty years of social change in Nanjing, the play tells the story of the five children of the Qiao family—Yicheng, Erqiang, Sanli, Simei, and Qiqi—who supported each other and relied on each other during difficult times. The play is filled with Nanjing elements, so check out the same ones together.
This is the place where Yicheng first met his first love. It is also a must-visit place for many literary young people when they come to Nanjing. With yellow walls and green trees, any photo taken is a blockbuster. When the sun is shining, the shadows of the trees are swaying, and when it is cloudy and rainy, it is literary and elegant. In short, Nanjing has Yihe Road just right.
If we want to trace the history of Yihe Road, we can't do without the "Capital Plan" of 1930. According to this plan, Yihe Road was built into a high-end residential area. On both sides of the boulevard, most of the buildings are two-story buildings that combine Chinese and Western styles. The building density is relatively low. This is today's Yihe Road Republican Architecture Protection Zone.
△ The Pioneer Yihe Library on Yihe Road
The Yihe Road Mansion District, with the Ninghai Road roundabout as its center, radiates out along Ninghai Road, Yihe Road, Guling Road, Mogan Road, Jiangsu Road, and Beijing West Road. It has more than 200 mansions of important officials of the Republic of China government. It is the area in China with the largest number of mansions from the Republic of China period. It is also one of the characteristic attractions of Nanjing's Republican-era architecture and an important modern architectural complex in Nanjing, earning it the reputation as the "Republic of China Architecture Museum."
△ The Republican-era architecture of the Yihe Mansions, photo by Jin Yu
The blue house number "Shamao Lane – 55" is the Qiao family's old house in the play, and the story basically takes place in this lane. In reality, there are two Shamao Lanes in Nanjing: Big Shamao Lane and Small Shamao Lane.
Dashamao Lane runs from Chengxian Street in the east to the intersection of Laohuqiao, Xiaoshamao Lane, and Yanjiaqiao Lane in the west. The Qing Dynasty's Tongzhi Shangjiang County Chronicles named it Shamao Lane. Legend has it that this area was home to workshops and artisans who made gauze hats, hence the name. Its western end, connecting south to a branch lane on Zhujiang Road, was originally named Shuanma Lane, but later adopted its current name due to its proximity to Shamao Lane.
This is where the family in the play often takes walks and chats, and it is also where Yicheng encounters love. Speaking of the Ming City Wall, we have to mention the things about the Ming Dynasty.
Nanjing's Ming City Wall takes advantage of the mountains and rivers, and is surrounded by rivers and lakes. With the Qinhuai River as a natural moat to the south, Zhongshan Mountain as its support to the east, Houhu Lake as its screen to the north, and the Stone City wall to the west, it forms a three-dimensional military fortress with unique defensive features.
The Beijing city wall is 35.3 kilometers long, of which 25.1 kilometers are still intact. It is the largest city wall in China and the largest city wall in the world. It has been selected as the world's largest city wall by the World Records Association. The outer city wall outside the Beijing city is more than 60 kilometers long and encloses an area of more than 230 square kilometers, the largest in world history.
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How much do you know about Nanjing’s Ming City Wall?
The inner city wall has a circumference of 35.267 kilometers and an enclosed area of 55 square kilometers. The city wall is 14-26 meters high and 7-30 meters wide. There are 13,616 battlements, 200 shelters, 13 city gates: Zhengyang Gate, Tongji Gate, Jubao Gate, Sanshan Gate, Shicheng Gate, Qingliang Gate, Dinghuai Gate, Yifeng Gate, Zhongfu Gate, Jinchuan Gate, Shence Gate, Taiping Gate, Chaoyang Gate, and 2 water gates: East Water Gate and West Water Gate.
The Yangtze River Bridge's bridgehead, as soon as it appears in the drama, is immediately eye-catching. Located between Xiaguan in Gulou District and Qiaobei in Pukou District, it is the first double-deck railway-highway bridge on the Yangtze River designed and built in China. It holds significant significance in both Chinese and global bridge history, earning it the nickname "the Bridge of Victory." In 1960, it was entered into the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's longest dual-use railway-highway bridge.
In addition to history and culture, Nanjing also has many interesting place names. For example, do you know where places like "Nima Lane", "Shipo Temple", "Screw Turn" and "Cibei Society" are hidden in Nanjing?
Running from Jinxianghe Road in the east to Danfeng Street in the west, it runs parallel to Beijing East Road. Shipo Po Lane was once the dormitory area of National Central University. Xu Beihong and Sun Duoci strolled here, and Hu Lancheng once lived at 20 Shipo Po Lane. It's also where Eileen Chang once visited. Today, it's a dining destination, home to arty cafes, Japanese and Korean cuisine, and more. The true story of Shipo Po is still up for you to discover.
It turns out this could also be a place name. Located near Xinjiekou, "Screw Turn" stretches approximately 150 meters from Hanzhong Road in the north to Shigu Road in the south. Ming Dynasty Nanjing scholar Gu Qiyuan's "Guest's Notes" states: "Entering the Stone City Gate, turning north toward East Street, the road curves like a ring, earning it the name 'Screw Turn.' Some believe this is a misnomer, as the curve is at the corner of Tieta Temple, formerly known as Luo Temple. This road, therefore, is named 'Luo Temple Turn.'"
The Cibei Society was a charitable organization in old Nanjing, similar to the Moral Society, primarily focused on charity, almsgiving, aid, and the printing of Buddhist scriptures. Over time, the street where the Cibei Society was located came to be known as the Cibei Society. Now, it's a hidden gem in the city, with countless exquisite and artistic shops to check out, and the aroma of coffee lingering along the way.
The area stretches from Rongzhuang Street in the east to Pingshi Street in the west. It was named this way in the Ming Dynasty. Legend has it that this is the site of the "Mud Horse Crossing King Kang." The Qing Dynasty Daoguang era poem "A Study of Jinling's Scenic Spots" states: "Mud Horse Lane, where Emperor Gaozong of Song fled south for refuge, arrived here on horseback after crossing the river. It was only then that he realized it was a mud horse." A poem also reads: "King Kang's crossing of the river was divinely assisted, his horse wading through the current as if it were a road. When he reached this spot, he whipped his horse and it wouldn't work. He realized it was a wonder of the ages."
△ Picture by Jin Yu
Beyond its cultural heritage, Nanjing's alleyways are also incredibly well-suited to its culinary scene. Have you ever heard the saying, "No duck leaves Nanjing alive?" When it comes to food, Nanjing residents are incredibly influential, and they've made a real splash with duck. Duck blood vermicelli, duck meat sesame cakes, roast duck, salted duck, pressed duck, and so much more—stop by and experience the flavors of Nanjing at any of the numerous duck blood vermicelli shops dotted throughout the streets and alleys. Besides duck, there's also a myriad of other snacks, like wontons and sweet osmanthus candied taro shoots.
△ Picture by Jin Yu
This is the food paradise of old Nanjing. Speaking of the hutongs of Beijing and the alleys of Shanghai, Nanjing's alleys are indispensable. Next time you visit Nanjing, don't go to Confucius Temple or Laomendong for food; instead, visit the "Three Sevens and Eight Alleys" in the south of the city. These small alleys, cherished by Nanjing residents, are said to be the "best places to eat."
△ Picture by Jin Yu
Xinjiekou is a famous food street, offering everything you could want. According to the Qinhuai Chronicles, dating back to the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, sheep-horn lanterns were once a specialty of Jinling. They were made by boiling sheep horns into a liquid, mixing it with colored paint, and then pressing it into thin sheets, called mingwa. The mingwa corridors in Jinling's markets were all home to these lanterns. These mingwa lanterns, strung together to create a light-transmitting lamp, were fire-safe, and resistant to cracking. They were also used in the Forbidden City. Note: In short, mingwa is the equivalent of ancient glass, but made from sheep horns.
As the saying goes, good wine needs no bush, and Nanhu is just that. The food here is authentic and well-rounded, and the variety is extensive. Especially after its renovation, it has been completely transformed, becoming a popular online check-in spot. Those who live here are likely to have a high happiness index, as they are right outside their doorstep, a food paradise.
Hongmiao Old Street, established in the early 1980s, is a vibrant urban scene. Crossing Deji Road and Changjiang Road, standing at the intersection of Wangjinshi, you'll be greeted by the vibrant energy of the city. Just a few steps further in, you'll reach Hongmiao. Its quaint residential complexes, welcoming neighborhoods, and countless delicious restaurants are a tribute to Nanjing. Despite its bustling location, you can find a wide variety of delicious dishes for just 20 yuan per person – a truly affordable and well-deserved experience.
△ Picture by Jin Yu
Tips:
How much do you know about Nanjing cuisine?
Jinling snacks, also known as Nanjing snacks, are ranked among China's four major snacks. They boast a long history, unique flavors, and a wide variety, dating back over a thousand years to the Six Dynasties period. They boast over a hundred varieties. These famous snacks include both meat and vegetarian dishes, sweet and savory, and come in a variety of forms. The most representative of these snacks are found in the Confucius Temple area along the Qinhuai River. The snacks are meticulously crafted, beautifully presented, made with carefully selected ingredients, and offer a unique flavor. Beyond the Confucius Temple, a diverse array of dim sum and snacks has gradually formed in areas such as Hunan Road, Xinjiekou, Chaotian Palace, Changle Road, Shanxi Road, Zhongyangmen, Huimin Bridge, and Yanziji.
A must-see in Nanjing is the Confucius Temple, also known as the Nanjing Confucian Temple. Dedicated to Confucius, it is China's first national institution of higher learning, one of China's four great Confucian temples, a hub of ancient Chinese culture, and a focal point for the rich history and culture of Jinling. Not only was it the cultural and educational center of Nanjing during the Ming and Qing dynasties, it also boasts the largest cultural and educational complex in Southeast China. Today, let's explore the alleys hidden within the Confucius Temple.
"The swallows that once flew in front of the halls of the Wang and Xie families now fly into the homes of ordinary people." This quote refers to Wuyi Lane in Confucius Temple, one of China's oldest and most famous ancient alleys. It was once the residence of prominent Chinese families and, during the Three Kingdoms period, served as the barracks for the Wu army defending Shitou City. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the Wang and Xie families resided here, and their descendants favored wearing black robes to signal their noble status, hence the name Wuyi Lane. This saying is widely circulated among the people of Nanjing.
The "Wende" in Wende Bridge's name is derived from the Confucian concept of "literature and morality are supreme under heaven." Because the bridge is located directly on Earth's meridian, on the fifteenth day of the eleventh lunar month, the full moon appears in the sky, and the bridge divides the moon into two halves, one on the east and one on the west. This spectacular sight is known as the "Wende Split Moon" or the "Wende Bridge Half Moon." This natural wonder attracts countless visitors each year.
Taoye Ferry is an ancient ferry crossing on the Qinhuai River. From the Six Dynasties to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Taoye Ferry was a bustling area, with river boats lining the river and lantern boats blaring. Speaking of Taoye Ferry, one must mention a legendary story: Wang Xianzhi's famous work "Taoye Ferry," which contains four poems: "Peach leaves reflect red flowers, graceful even without wind. Spring flowers reflect countless numbers, I am grateful that my love picked them for me alone."
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Origin of the name Taoye Ferry
1. During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the river bank was planted with peach trees. When the wind blew in spring, peach leaves would float on the water surface one after another and were blown everywhere by the wind. The boatman looked at the peach leaves floating on the river and jokingly called it Peach Leaf Ferry.
2. The Eastern Jin Dynasty calligrapher Wang Xianzhi had a concubine named Taoye. When she traveled between the Qinhuai River and the Huai River, Wang Xianzhi would personally greet her and see her off. He even composed the "Taoye Song" for her: "Taoye, Taoye, you don't need an oar to cross the river; crossing is effortless, I will personally welcome you."
Ming Palace - Qingxi Road - Zhongshanmen Street - Mingling Road - Qianhu Lake - Ming City Wall - Pipa Lake - Taipingmen Road - White Horse Park, walk through the streets and alleys, and go deep into Purple Mountain.
Zhangfu Garden - Nima Lane - Anping Street - Nuomi Lane - Pingshi Street - Xinanli - Jinshajing - Qianniu Lane - Dayufang Lane - Laomendong, walk through the streets and alleys deep into the south of the city.
Bridge Park - Xiaguan Theme Train Park - Xiaguan History Exhibition Hall - Main Road - Yangtze River Porpoise Viewing Area - Former Site of Capital Power Plant of the Republic of China - Zhongshan Wharf, return to the 1980s.
Xi'an Gate - Ruins Park - Pilu Temple - Hanfu Street - Meiyuan New Village - Changjiang Road - Beiting Lane - Shipo Nunnery, looking for stories about Nanjing and the Republic of China.
Nanjing has many surprises, too numerous to mention, hidden in its streets and alleys, waiting for you to discover them. Come to admire the flowers in spring, escape the heat in summer, admire the leaves in autumn, and walk in the snow in winter. Nanjing is worth visiting.
