Live Your Best Lives
As life becomes more affluent, the differences between major cities are becoming increasingly narrow. Shopping malls are everywhere, and there's no shortage of them. However, it's precisely the simple, everyday lives of ordinary people that truly capture a city's soul. Just as a trip to Northeast China necessitates sitting on a traditional kang (fired bed), and a trip to Shanghai necessitates exploring its alleyways, Chengdu boasts a diverse array of lanes. And to truly experience the authentic flavor of Beijing, explore its hutongs.
Picture @Photo.net
Back in the old days, Beijing's social hierarchy was incredibly strict: imperial relatives, nobles, and the common people. While much of the imperial family's life is now lost to history and recorded, traces of the lives of ordinary people can still be found, hidden in the alleys and lanes. If you're not careful, you'll stumble upon history.
People who have lived at the foot of the imperial city for a long time have seen tall buildings rise and fall, and have become accustomed to the changes of power in dynasties. They have become more lazy and indifferent in their lives, which is reflected in the width, narrowness, corners, and crisscrossing of the alleys.
Picture @Photo.net
"If you can't see me, I'll ask you if you've eaten. I'll say a few polite words and then go back inside."
"Eating at a hundred houses in a slum, distant relatives are not as good as close neighbors," "A joke arranged marriage actually became a reality"
This is the living condition of most old Beijingers in the hutongs.
Picture @Photo.net
The word "hutong" is said to have originally come from a transliteration of the Mongolian word for "well." In ancient times, wherever people lived, there was naturally a source of water, and "well" gradually became a synonym for residential area. A closer look at the hutong layout reveals its intriguing design. From east to west, the residential area is divided into a grid, with hutongs running horizontally and vertically, and courtyard houses arranged in a staggered, orderly, and regular pattern.
Picture @Photo.net
The names of Beijing's hutongs are also quite intriguing, offering a glimpse into the grassroots, aristocratic, and commercial culture of old Beijing. You can see traces of the ancient official institutions, titles, and celebrities who once lived there, such as Xishiku Hutong, Wen Chengxiang Hutong, and Shijia Hutong. Similarly, you can also glimpse the simple life of ordinary people in the hutongs, as old Beijingers often say about the "seven necessities of life"—firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and tea.
Let’s take a walk through the simplest elements that make up the city of Beijing.
Shichahai is a renowned online-famous check-in spot in Beijing. As the saying goes, "The capital's water originates from the Baifu Spring, flows to Wengshan Lake, passes through the ancient Gaoliang Road, and accumulates to form a pool, which is Shichahai." This area was once home to vast rice paddies and lotus flowers, rippling green waters and a vibrant, wild scene, rivaling the beauty of Jiangnan. This "most beautiful landscape in the city" was once home to royal palaces, numerous temples, and renowned gardens.
The application of the Grand Canal for World Heritage status is now underway. The area around Shichahai was once the northern end point of the Grand Canal for grain transport from Beijing to Hangzhou during the Yuan Dynasty. The planning and construction of Yuan Dadu and the Beijing city of the Ming and Qing Dynasties were based on the central axis with the eastern end of Shichahai as the intersection point.
Picture @Photo.net
Here, you'll also find Yinding Mountain, once one of the "Eight Scenic Spots of Yanjing," and the only viewing gallery in the old city showcasing the fusion of mountains, water, and city. On a clear day, stand on Yinding Bridge, connecting Qianhai and Houhai, and gaze northwest. Nearby, you'll see shimmering water, swaying green willows, and in the distance, a vast sky, light clouds, and a hazy veil over the Western Hills. The breathtaking scenery of emerald waters and verdant mountains is unparalleled.
Picture @Photo.net
Nowadays, every city has a street bustling with tourists, from Chengdu's Kuanzhai Alley to Shanghai's Tianzifang, Nanjing's Wuyi Alley, and Xi'an's Huimin Street. Nanluoguxiang has also made the list, but few people know that it holds Beijing's deepest memories. Once the heart of the Yuan Dynasty capital, Nanluoguxiang formed part of the "back market" within its urban layout of "ancestral temples on the left, community temples on the right, and market squares in the front." It still serves this purpose today, making it one of the few places in Beijing that retains the Yuan Dynasty's "lifang" (lifang) style, the basic organizational unit of ancient Chinese residential areas.
On both sides of the north-south main street of Nanluoguxiang, there are 8 alleys neatly arranged in a fishbone shape. The whole block is like a giant centipede, which is a typical manifestation of the checkerboard-like architectural layout of Yuan Dadu.
Image @ Baidu Map
Due to its unique location, Nanluoguxiang and the surrounding areas were a magnet for dignitaries during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Numerous royal palaces and stately homes have witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties. From the late Southern Song Dynasty's national hero Wen Tianxiang to the renowned general Hong Chengchou, who led the Qing army into the Great Wall, Wu Sangui and Chen Yuanyuan, who risked their lives for their beloved, Emperor Qianlong's beloved daughter Princess Zhuangjing, Senggelinqin, who bravely repelled the Anglo-French coalition, to the Republic of China's Sun Yat-sen, Yuan Shikai, Duan Qirui, Feng Guozhang, Chiang Kai-shek, Qi Baishi, and Mao Dun, all left their mark on Nanluoguxiang.
Old Beijingers have a saying: "If you go out into the slanted streets, you're not taking the right path." Beijing has surprisingly few slanted alleys, but why are they slanted? Yandaixie Street, located adjacent to Shichahai Lake, was shaped by the currents of the river. Take a look! As for its origins, it's because during the Yuan Dynasty, the Grand Canal's northern terminus was at Jishuitan, extending to Shichahai. This slanted street, built along the waterway, naturally became the ideal location for selling goods.
Picture @Photo.net
It later became famous because the Manchus living in the northern part of the city often smoked either dry or water pipes. During the Qianlong Emperor's reign, this street was originally called "Gulou Xiejie" (Drum Tower Street), and in the late Qing Dynasty, it was renamed "Yandai Xiejie" (Smoking Piece Street). It's said that Empress Dowager Cixi's pipe was once restored. So, if you're visiting Shichahai, discover the centuries-old stories of old Beijing beneath the eaves of houses, by the bridges, and by the lake.
The Republic of China era was a turbulent time, marked by warlord separatism and relentless artillery fire. Consequently, numerous stories set within this period have been adapted for film. While we lament the fates of the protagonists, we are inevitably captivated by the unique charm of Republican-era architecture. The intricate European style, the elegant tables, chairs, and sofas, and the love-hate dynamics of each sophisticated young man and woman within these buildings, all add to their allure.
Formerly known as Dongjiang Rice Lane, Dongjiaominxiang (Dongjiaominxiang) was the seat of the "Five Government Offices and Six Ministries" during the Ming and Qing dynasties. In the late Qing dynasty, it was forced to open up to the outside world as a legation district, attracting foreign governments, banks, and post offices. Numerous Western-style buildings of varying styles have emerged here, perhaps even more fittingly calling it "a country within a country." St. Michael's Cathedral and the French Church are among Dongjiaominxiang's most memorable landmarks, with their classic Gothic architecture and unique church art. Passersby can't help but pause to contemplate this century of history.
After 1949, Dongjiaominxiang continued to serve as an embassy district until 1959, when all embassies moved to the Sanlitun area outside Chaoyangmen. Dongjiaominxiang is a protected cultural relic district in Beijing, and the Western-style buildings lining the street still tell of its past to passersby.
The former French Post Office boasts a distinctly French style, showcasing the exquisite refinement of French architecture. The wall reliefs are also very French. Passing by here, you'll be tempted to snap a few photos. The Republican era always held a captivating and unique charm. Fortunately, time has shed history but warmed the old houses, still radiating a sense of elegance.
Over the centuries, countless celebrities have emerged from this hutong. The historical images from modern and contemporary times are particularly numerous and dizzying. It can be said that this hutong records the living history of half of China. The history of Shijia Hutong dates back over 700 years, and it can be clearly seen in the map of Yuan Dadu designed by Liu Bingzhong during the Yuan Dynasty. The hutong stretches 700 meters and still contains 80 siheyuan (quadrangle courtyards), of which approximately 30 are intact. The deep hutong is almost devoid of tourists and commercial activities, with the exception of one or two hotels, all of which are traditional Beijing siheyuans.
Photo @Shijia Hutong Museum
No. 20 Shijia Hutong is the birthplace of Chinese drama and the predecessor of the Beijing People's Art Theater. Playwrights such as Cao Yu and Li Bozhao once worked here. Lao She also wrote the famous "Longxugou" in this courtyard.
No. 24 Shijia Hutong is a quadrangle courtyard with two levels. The plaques on the four door lintels were inscribed by Mr. Shu Yi, son of Lao She. It was once the residence of Ling Fupeng, the governor-general of Zhili in the late Qing Dynasty. Ling Shuhua, "the first Chinese female writer to conquer Europe", was born here in 1900. After she married the famous writer Chen Xiying, this courtyard became the "young lady's study" where Beijing celebrities gathered. Gu Hongming, Chen Yinke, Qi Baishi, Ba Jin, Xu Zhimo, Shen Congwen, and Tagore were all frequent visitors to No. 24 Courtyard.
Photo @Shijia Hutong Museum
Photo @Shijia Hutong Museum
No. 51 Shijia Hutong is the former residence of Mr. Zhang Shizhao. Later, his adopted daughter Zhang Hanzhi also lived here after marrying Qiao Guanhua. In 2011, his daughter Hong Huang returned the courtyard to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
Number 53, Shijia Hutong, was the residence of Shi Kefa. It later became the outer residence of Li Lianying. After liberation, it housed the offices of the All-China Women's Federation. Deng Yingchao and Kang Keqing also worked there. Shi Kefa's ancestral hall is also located within the hutong, and some have speculated that this is the origin of the name. However, closer examination contradicts this. Shi Kefa was a hero who resisted the Qing Dynasty during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and the name "Shijia Hutong" already appears in the Jiajing-era "Collection of Alleyways and Alleys in the Five Cities of the Capital." This inference suggests that the Shi family had lived here for generations, for over a century before Shi Kefa's birth.
In 1909, the Qing government used the Boxer Indemnity returned by the United States to establish the Office of Study in the United States in Shijia Hutong, specifically to select students for study in the United States. The original site is now Shijia Primary School. Compared to the spacious campuses of today's schools, Shijia Primary School was somewhat cramped in the hutong. However, its rich history has transformed this seemingly small school into a symbol of its time.
Today, Shijia Primary School is even more dazzling than ever, a prestigious school sought after by many parents. It has hosted Prince William of the United Kingdom, envoys from various countries, and David Beckham. It has also hosted Olympic champions. Students from Shijia Primary School have also participated in the opening ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics and the closing ceremony of the 2022 Winter Olympics.
How about this primary school? Is it important enough?
Since the Ming Dynasty, when the Outer City was expanded, Qianmen Street has become a prime location in Beijing. The bustling scene of people and goods, merchants, and merchants has continued for hundreds of years. Describing the prosperity of Qianmen's business, one wrote: "The dazzling colors are blinding, and goods are lined up in all directions. Looking up, the sky is indistinguishable from clear or cloudy, and the narrow streets are crowded with people." After the Ming Dynasty relocated its capital to Beijing, shop-front "corridors" were built outside Qianmen. In the first year of the Yongle reign (1403), the Ming government relocated wealthy merchants from Zhejiang, Suzhou, and other places to settle here.
In the 23rd year of the Jiajing reign (1553), an outer city was built in the south of Beijing. After the goods transported via the Grand Canal arrived at Tongzhou Wharf, most of them were transferred here for distribution, which attracted merchants from all over the country to settle in the south city. Stalls and markets appeared one after another, eventually forming the Qianmen commercial district and creating the prosperity of Qianmen Street.
Compared to major national events, many people are more concerned with the mundane details of daily life. The Eight Great Hutongs, once Beijing's most famous brothel, have captured the attention of the world, just like the Qinhuai River. They have been the site of both dark crimes and beautiful legends. While the Eight Great Hutongs are now unrecognizable, we can still share our memories of their former "paradise on earth."
At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, most of Beijing's entertainment venues were concentrated on Qianmenwai Street. Firstly, it was close to the inner city, making it convenient for officials to go out of the city for pleasure; secondly, there was a railway station here, with many passengers traveling to and from the north; thirdly, Qianmenwai Street was a famous commercial street in the capital, and it was quite prosperous. This area was a concentration of theaters, teahouses, and restaurants, providing a place for eating, drinking, and having fun.
The so-called Eight Great Hutongs refer to an area including Wang Guangfu Street, Shaanxi Lane, Zhumao Hutong, Hanjiatan, Yanzhi Hutong, Shitou Hutong, Baishun Hutong and Zhujia Hutong. Among them, these are the most important and famous.
In the "Complete Map of the Capital" from the Qianlong era, this street was once named Yangmeizhuxie Street, and later, during the Guangxu era, it was refined to Yangmeizhuxie Street. Yangmeizhuxie Street's artistic flair dates back to the Republic of China. Lu Xun hosted banquets at Taifenglou, located at the entrance of the alley; Shen Congwen wrote "Border Town" here; Cai E and Xiao Fengxian met here; Kang Youwei, Tan Sitong, Liang Qichao, Liang Shiqiu, Yang Xiaolou... countless literary and artistic figures throughout history have frequented the street. During the Republican era, seven renowned bookstores converged here, making Yangmeizhuxie Street a popular destination for the nation's top literary figures.
The Old Beijing Rabbit God shop at No. 19 Yangmeizhuxie Street is a shop that sells purely handmade old items. It is opened by a inheritor of Beijing's intangible cultural heritage. The rabbit gods here are all made of clay and hand-painted, symbolizing good luck, success in career, and good fortune. They embody the hard work and perseverance of the craftsmen. If you want to buy authentic Old Beijing Rabbit Gods, come here, you can't go wrong!
A small, white, Republican-era-style building on Route 31st catches the eye, its traditional Chinese characters for "Model Bookstore" faintly inscribed on it. Its pillars and windowsills exude a sense of time. This is the most prominent building and sign on Yangmeizhu Street. It was once home to the World Bookstore, a prominent institution alongside the Commercial Press and Zhonghua Book Company. Stepping inside, a unique yet alluring atmosphere washes over you. Walking across the weathered wooden floor, quietly flipping through the antique books on the shelves, and admiring the neatly arranged lighting, flowers, and ornaments, one is instantly transported back to a bygone era.
"I met a monk in a bamboo courtyard and had a chat with him, which gave me a little leisure for half a day." A cup of hot coffee, a heavy history, a strong Republican style, and a trip to the most prosperous place in old Beijing, in search of the elegance and art of the past.
Chengxian Street, home to the Temple of Confucius and the Imperial College, boasts a striking and refreshing archway, a unique sight in modern Beijing. The moment you enter Guozijian Street, the bustling traffic of Lama Temple Street vanishes, leaving only the dense, towering ancient locust trees lining its sides, their green tiles and red walls complementing the Imperial College's Confucian Temple. The street's name derives from the ancient building it houses: the Imperial College. The street stretches 669 meters, averaging 11 meters in width, and boasts a 700-year history. As Emperor Qianlong (1161-117) noted, "The capital is the most privileged district, and the Imperial College the most privileged place." In 1990, the Beijing Municipal People's Government designated Guozijian Street as one of the first batch of historical and cultural preservation areas in Beijing.
Here, you'll find the quaint grandeur of the old city, the tranquility of the hutongs, the fun of old Beijing life, and even the modern international cultural exchange and the hipster aesthetic of young people. With its sophora japonica trees, red walls, courtyards, and persimmon trees, strolling along Guozijian Street year-round reveals the most distinctive beauty of the ancient capital.
Wudaoying Hutong lies within the city walls east of Andingmen, bordering Lama Temple Street to the east and Andingmen East Street to the northwest. It borders the Confucius Temple and the Imperial College to the south, and faces the Temple of Earth across the road to the north. During the Ming Dynasty, this area was part of Chongjiaofang, housing a city defense barracks known as Wudeweiying. During the Qing Dynasty, Manchu bannermen renamed it "Wudaoying," based on the pronunciation of "Wude." After the Qianlong Emperor's reign, the area essentially took shape as a hutong. While the north side of the hutong still contained only a few houses, primarily military barracks, the south side already had a denser concentration of residential buildings.
In recent years, Wudaoying Hutong has gradually evolved into a culturally rich and artistic alley. A popular photo spot, the romantic Wudaoying is captured daily by countless cameras. It constantly witnesses the smiles of young women, the sweetness of newlyweds, and the playfulness of children. Tranquility, artistry, and a slow pace—all aspects of life are condensed in this small alley. Wudaoying Hutong, with its unique character, is telling a new story for this old alley. Quiet streets, hurried people, and cats lazing on the steps—everything flows so slowly and naturally.
In his novel "Camel Xiangzi", Lao She described "the most beautiful street in Beijing" through the rickshaw pulling Xiangzi. He wrote: "There is everything here, including the Imperial River, the corner towers of the Forbidden City, Jingshan Hill, Beihai Lake, the White Pagoda, the Golden Turtle and Jade Dragon Bridge, the Round City, the red walls, the library, and the large stone lions. It is so beautiful." This is Beijing's Fujing Street, also known as Fujing Historical and Cultural Street.
Formed during the Yuan Dynasty, it endured through the Ming, Qing, and Republican eras, stretching 3.8 kilometers to this day. From historic buildings to modern sites, from imperial palaces to Western churches, it boasts a wide array of offerings. Calling it "Beijing's most beautiful street" is no exaggeration, and "seven hundred years of history in one street" is no exaggeration; the charm of this place truly shines through.
Living in Fuchengmen, I often passed by the White Pagoda when I was a child. I could only peek at the pagoda through the cracks in the locked mountain gate. The elderly always like to circumambulate the White Pagoda to pray for blessings and good fortune, good weather, family health, and good luck. Now, after a closed renovation, the 750-year-old White Pagoda Temple has finally reopened! Major media outlets are competing to report on it, and it has attracted much attention because the White Pagoda Temple is currently the oldest Tibetan Buddhist pagoda in Beijing, and it is also the oldest and largest existing Lama pagoda in China.
Picture @Chongpo
Baita Temple, also known as Miaoying Temple, is named after the white pagoda within it. In 1271, Kublai Khan, the founder of the Ming Dynasty, personally ordered the reconstruction of a Lama Pagoda on the site of the original Liao Dynasty pagoda. Nepalese craftsman Ani Ko was commissioned to design and construct it. After eight years of construction, this first stupa in the form of a covered bowl was finally completed. This is a continuation of our Belt and Road friendship.
Picture @Chongpo
Emperors throughout history gathered for meetings. Constructed in the tenth year of the Jiajing reign, this is the only imperial temple in my country for 500 years dedicated to the Three Sovereigns and Five Emperors, emperors of all dynasties, and their civil and military achievements. The Jingde Chongsheng Hall, 21 meters high, nine bays wide and five bays deep, features yellow glazed tiles and a double-eaved hipped roof, making it comparable to the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden City. Its magnificent golden nanmu pillars further enhance its value, while the floor is paved with "gold bricks." While the Forbidden City's main halls are now shielded by high railings and can only be admired from a distance, here, one can step on the golden bricks and experience the imperial aura. Entrance requirements were stringent; initially, even Qin Shi Huang and Emperor Yang of Sui were excluded. However, the Kangxi and Qianlong emperors relaxed the requirements, resulting in the hall now enshrining tablets for 188 Chinese emperors and 79 prominent officials.
Picture @Temple of the Emperors of All Dynasties
The term "hutong" originated in the Yuan Dynasty capital, where 29 hutongs existed. However, only Zhuan Ta Hutong has any written records. Furthermore, Zhuan Ta Hutong is documented from the Yuan, Ming, Qing, and Republican periods to the present day, making it a unique example in Beijing and the "roots" of the city's hutongs. The ancient blue brick pagoda is the burial pagoda of Wan Song Lao Ren, the teacher of Yelü Chucai, a renowned Yuan Dynasty official and a renowned monk during the Jin and Yuan dynasties. Zhuan Ta Hutong, Wan Song Lao Ren, and the brick pagoda are mentioned in numerous ancient books and dramas from the Yuan and Ming dynasties. Even today, "Brick Master" guards the sky within Zhengyang Bookstore.
The area at the foot of the Imperial City is always shrouded in mystery. The area south of Donghuamen is called Nanchizi Street, while the area north of it is called Beichizi Street. This is one of the streets closest to the Red Wall and is adjacent to the Forbidden City.
Countless buildings with connections to famous figures and historical stories are scattered across this street. The street, measuring 923 meters in length and 21 meters in width, boasts two of the Eight Outer Temples of the Forbidden City. It also boasts the residence of the once-powerful Prince Regent Dorgon (now Pudu Temple), Huang Shicheng's "Golden Chamber Stone Chamber" from the Ming and Qing imperial courts, schools established by prominent figures during the Republic of China, where Cai Yuanpei, Zhou Zuoren, and Shen Yinmo all taught, and the former residence of Chen Duxiu, an early base for the Chinese Communist Party. Perhaps history seems distant now, but when it comes to luxury and lavish spending, look no further than China's wealthy wife, Wendi Deng, whose courtyard house is also located on Nanchizi Street.
During the Republic of China, this area was named "May Fourth Street," after the birthplace of the May Fourth Movement. A century ago, this area was a gathering place for those who "jumped the wave"! A red building illuminates the colors of China. The mere sight of the words "May Fourth Street" evokes a glittering history. And that history begins just north of May Fourth Street, in an old-fashioned building with red bricks and red tiled roofs. Old Beijingers who live nearby often refer to this red brick and red tile building as the "Red Building."
Picture @ Peking University Red Building
Today, the Red Building has been renovated and is open to the public as a memorial to the early revolutionary activities of the Chinese Communist Party in Beijing. A few days ago, Beijing released a list of popular check-in spots for 2021, and its inclusion is well-deserved. The Peking University Red Building, which has frequently trended on social media thanks to the TV series "Awakening Age," was once home to the Peking University headquarters, the First College (a liberal arts teaching building), and the library. Completed in 1918, with a construction area of approximately 11,000 square meters, it once housed some of China's most fashionable and ambitious people.
Picture @ Peking University Red Building
Located at the East Imperial City Wall, it is a building that combines Western and Chinese styles with a Chinese tiled roof. After a century of vicissitudes, the teaching buildings, auditoriums, library stacks and other buildings and facilities have been preserved intact and their style remains the same.
The founding of the Sino-French University stems from the work-study movement in France in the early 20th century. At that time, a group of ambitious young Chinese traveled across the ocean to work and study in France, hoping to master Europe's advanced science, technology, and cultural knowledge. Upon their return, they hoped to contribute to China's prosperity through industry, education, and science. A hundred years ago, this place was a gathering place for new knowledge and hope, and progressive young people embarked on the path to national salvation.
Now this place is a popular check-in spot for internet celebrities. As soon as you step into the school gate, you will be transported back to the old days of the Republic of China school.
At both ends of the alley is the bustling modern society, while inside the alley is the slow and leisurely old times.
The place where I was born and raised is called Beijing, the place where I cried and laughed is called Beijing, the place where I played and made noise is called Beijing, and the place where I walked and passed by is called Beijing.
