Live Your Best Lives
My curiosity and anticipation, sparked by watching a promotional video about Gannan, sent my mind careening through countless miles. It was the tender, plump varieties of Gansu lamb; the Dolomites-like white cliffs, the magnificent scenery shrouded in mist; the fat marmots, unscrupulously demanding food; the utopian Buddhist town of Langmusi; the radiant Jesus light shining through the morning mist in the secret realm of Gangjia; the nomadic life on the grasslands; and...
Well then, stop daydreaming and just get going!
Nearly a hundred years ago, Joseph Rock was captivated by the beauty of Zhagana. He said with ecstasy, "I have never seen such a beautiful scenery in my life. If the author of Genesis had seen the beauty of Zhagana, he would have placed Adam and Eve's birthplace here."
The Zhagana discovered by the world may be a dream, a symbol, or a metaphor, as if it were from another world, spanning thousands of years.
In that life, I grasped mountains, turned water, and transformed pagodas, not to cultivate my afterlife, but simply to meet you along the way. Mountain dwellers are ignorant of rhythm, yet millennia-old vines transform into harps. Nature's uncanny craftsmanship and humanity's endless vitality weave a most harmonious symphony. Zhagana, with her virgin heart, passed us by, becoming one of the world's last remaining paradises.
Here, you'll discover that faith is a kind of happiness. The warmth of the sun dispels the chill of the night, and you awaken to the sound of the wind dancing in the sky. Don't say Zhagana is the place closest to God; God is in Zhagana, where nature and man are one.
Zhagana, a land that swallows the sky, is boundless and limitless. Here, the soul is shaken and passion is ignited.
Zhagana is like a spiritual landmark for all mankind.
The beauty of Gannan goes beyond Zhagana. This land boasts rich cuisine, profound culture, and beautiful scenery that resembles a paradise on earth.
Let’s take a look at them one by one below.
First, we arrived in Lanzhou. I believe everyone's first impression of Lanzhou must start with a bowl of Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, but in Lanzhou, the correct name should be Lanzhou beef noodles. The amazing hand-pulled noodles, the fragrant chili sauce, and the delicious beef...
Photo@Documentary "Breakfast China"
According to most locals, the best thing to have in the morning is a bowl of Manfu beef noodles. Get up early and eat a bowl of the most magical first-pot beef noodles. If you like chewy beef, you can order a bowl of Erxi ramen, mix it with a small portion of pickles, and have a meat and egg dish. This is a complete version of the luxury beef noodle set.
Photo@Documentary "Breakfast China"
Of course, Lanzhou offers a wide variety of delicious dishes beyond beef noodles, starting with the Lanzhou Night Market. It's also one of my favorite places to visit in the city, and Zhengning Road is the perfect place to indulge in a feast. You'll find everything from egg and milk fermented glutinous rice wine, fermented rice noodles, ramen noodles, mutton offal, spicy mutton heads, and sweet fermented rice wine. One stomach simply can't hold all the food.
Just a quick aside: Little Fat Sheep is so adorable! It's my absolute favorite. Gansu lamb is also top-notch: tender stir-fried lamb, tender braised lamb, authentic hand-pulled lamb, delicious lamb noodle soup, crispy, tender, secret lamb skewers, and the uniquely delicious Daoshihe... Add some leftover ice-cold beer, and you'll be completely satisfied.
Picture @《Flavor Origin》
After enjoying the food, you can stroll to Zhongshan Bridge to digest the food. Zhongshan Bridge, also known as the No. 1 Bridge across the Yellow River, was built by the German company Tailai in 1907 and was completed and opened to traffic in 1909, the 35th year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu. It has a history of 100 years and is the first real bridge across the 5,464-kilometer Yellow River.
Next up is our exploration of Gannan, a mysterious Buddhist land. Our first stop is Labrang Monastery in Xiahe County, one of the six major monasteries of the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Known as the "World's Capital of Tibetan Studies," it boasts trees growing around the temple, white pagodas surrounded by fragrant mist, and stands as the most dazzling sanctuary on this snowy plateau.
The unique terrain, with mountains at its back and the Daxia River running through it, offers a panoramic view of magnificent golden pavilions and palaces, second only to the Potala Palace in size, creating a peaceful and mysterious scene. For Buddhists, this is a sacred Pure Land where all doubts about spiritual practice can be resolved and enlightened.
Centuries-old murals and Buddha statues, prayer flags everywhere, incense burners wafting with the scent of butter and pine, and the deep, rhythmic chanting washes away all traces of worldly dust. Labrang Monastery boasts the world's longest prayer corridor, stretching a full three kilometers. A complete circumnavigation takes about an hour, and circumambulation is essential; walk in a clockwise direction.
Young children and toddling elders turn the prayer wheels in their right hands and recite the "Six-Syllable Mantra". Perhaps you cannot understand the meaning of turning the prayer wheels, but the rotation and reincarnation will make you calm and peaceful.
Tips:
【Photography tips】
In fact, many places in the temple are good places for portraits, but after all, it is a Buddhist pure land. I hope everyone will pay attention to the situation around them when taking pictures and not disturb the normal lives of the lamas.
Walking along the bank of the Daxia River on one side of the parking lot, you can take pictures of the Gongtang Pagoda and other Labrang Monastery buildings from a unique perspective.
The hillside above the parking lot on the opposite bank of the Daxia River on the south side is also a good spot. Coming out of the gate of the Gongtang Pagoda area and crossing the wooden bridge, you can overlook the entire temple scenic area from here, which is also an excellent camera position.
If you are taking portraits, red walls and corners of stairs are very good places to shoot, and wearing brightly colored clothes will make the photos even easier.
After Labrang Monastery, the next stop is Gangga Secret Realm. Located in Gangga Town, Xiahe County, Gangga Secret Realm connects U-Tsang to the west, Sichuan and Kang to the south, and Qinghai to the north. It sits at the crossroads of four provinces and has been a culturally rich region since ancient times. The region's many histories and legends date back thousands of years. The region has produced such figures as Lama Tsongkhapa and the Gongri Cangnu Living Buddha, demonstrating the region's remarkable people and exceptional natural beauty. Its history and culture are truly captivating. Here, you'll also find Tibetan pigs, Gangga sheep, ancient temples, ancient cities, herders, monks, and more.
The eastern part of the Gangga Grassland boasts a unique ancient city. Breaking free from the constraints of round or square shapes, it stands out with its own unique style. This is the historically renowned Bajiao Ancient City. Bearing the marks of the rise and fall of dynasties, Bajiao Ancient City served as a strategic point for transportation between Gansu and Qinghai, and a key military stronghold fiercely contested by successive political regimes. Even today, it preserves cultural relics from various eras, offering both historical and scenic value.
At the end of the Gangga Grassland, a towering cliff, Baishiya, stretches for over ten kilometers. Like a barrier, it protects the Gangga Grassland below, reminiscent of the Great Wall in "A Song of Ice and Fire" and the vastness and mystery of Middle-earth in "The Devil's World." Below, Baishiya Temple is a renowned spiritual sanctuary in the Amdo Tibetan region.
You can also hike the Baishiya Grand Canyon, a hidden gem rarely seen. The small loop, approximately 14 kilometers long, cuts through Baishiya, accompanied by marmots. After a steep 400-meter ascent, you'll reach the Cloud Pasture. Who would have thought this pinnacle of the Great Wall would be a vast expanse of grassland? True to its name, the Cloud Pasture is a bit challenging, so be mindful of your stamina and safety.
Stay overnight at Ganga Secret Land, away from the hustle and bustle of the world, and savor the tranquility. Inside the scenic area, you'll find the Ganga Ecological Camp, situated on a private plateau with stunning views. Opening the curtains in the morning, you'll be greeted by the surreal sight of the White Stone Cliffs shrouded in mist. The scenery is breathtakingly beautiful. However, it's a bit pricey, and rooms are hard to come by during peak season, ranging from 1,800 to 5,000 RMB.
Of course, if you drive an RV, then it is simply the most cost-effective one in the universe. You don’t have to worry about finding a room, and there are no expensive housing prices. Bring some high-end camping equipment, and you will be the current Internet celebrity.
Get up the next day and wait for a secret sunrise, as well as the spectacular morning mist, the magnificent mountains like the Dolomites, the fields, the distant mountains, the floating clouds, everything is just beautiful, the scenery will definitely fascinate you.
Tips:
【Photography tips】
On the way to Baishiya, you can park at both viewing platforms, and the view is also top-notch.
Aerial photography will definitely give you a different kind of surprise, so don’t forget it.
Don't lie in bed, the Ganga Secret Realm is stunning at every time, whether it's the sunset, the starry sky, or the morning mist, it's absolutely worth it!!!
Afterwards, go deep into Tibet to learn about the local public welfare organization Shanjue Tribe, which is a Ganga environmental protection team. The Shanjue team is the guardian of the grassland who listens to the voice of nature. With the original intention of protecting the ecology and spreading culture, they tell the world the wisdom of the ancient nomadic culture of the grassland and tell you the stories of the growth of all life.
In Tibet, animals and humans coexist harmoniously. They represent the culture of nature. The Shanjue tribe leads the herders on the plateau to make money by hand and develop a green economy. It is a very touching place. The little babies made are lively and cute. They are all felt crafts handmade by herders. All materials and packaging are natural and environmentally friendly materials taken from nature. You can also learn from the herders and make them yourself.
In the afternoon, we will directly depart for Langmusi Town, known as the Utopia of Gannan, which is also regarded by locals as the place closest to heaven. It is also Luqu County in Gannan. It is also one of the famous towns in the Anduo Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. It is named after the Langmusi Temple in the town. It will be late when we arrive, so we can directly check into the hotel in the town and continue sightseeing the next day.
This is a canyon basin surrounded by mountains, where verdant pines and cypresses contrast beautifully with the purple-red sandstone. A small stream, the Bailong River, flows through the town. North of the stream, in Gansu province, is the Dacang Langmusaichi Temple; south of the stream, in Sichuan province, is the Geladi Temple. Together, the two temples form the Langmusi Temple. Langmusi possesses a tranquil and serene beauty, where mountains, grasslands, pine forests, and streams converge.
There's also a lesser-known hiking trail, the Namo Grand Canyon, offering stunning scenery and unique, pristine terrain. Be aware of the water and rocky paths. However, you can opt for hiking or horseback riding deeper into the valley, with local Tibetans leading the horses. The latter part of the route is up to you to explore on your own. It will truly blow your mind. Everything here is truly breathtaking, a true escape from the willow banks and blossoming landscapes. It's truly a paradise on earth.
Finally, there's the custom of sky burials. The celestial burial platform is located halfway up the mountain behind Gansu Temple, overlooking the entire town. The scene is terrifying, and the timid may experience some discomfort during the process. Remember to respect the customs and culture and refrain from taking photos. Simply observe and experience the majesty of nature and the insignificance of humans. The ceremony is usually held in the morning, so be careful not to miss it.
Tips:
【Photography tips】
The light at Langmusi at dawn and dusk is truly captivating. A small slope to the left of the temple entrance offers panoramic views. A light morning mist and smoke from cooking fires shroud the town, while the temple complex emerges from the mist, towering over the hillside. At sunset, sunlight strikes the golden roof of the temple, creating a dazzling brilliance.
After the day's tour, we'll head to Zhagana and check into our hotel. Zhagana is a village located in the northwest of Diebu County. Its terrain resembles a massive palace. The mountain, shrouded in mist and clouds, resembles a fairyland. It was named one of China's "Top Ten Unknown Mountains" by National Geographic magazine and is also one of Gannan's "Most Beautiful Photography Spots."
Nearly a hundred years ago, Joseph Rock was captivated by the beauty of Zhagana. He said with ecstasy, "I have never seen such a beautiful scenery in my life. If the author of Genesis had seen the beauty of Zhagana, he would have placed Adam and Eve's birthplace here."
The Zhagana discovered by the world may be a dream, a symbol, or a metaphor, as if it were from another world, spanning thousands of years.
In that life, I grasped mountains, turned water, and transformed pagodas, not to cultivate my afterlife, but simply to meet you along the way. Mountain dwellers are ignorant of rhythm, yet millennia-old vines transform into harps. Nature's uncanny craftsmanship and humanity's endless vitality weave a most harmonious symphony. Zhagana, with her virgin heart, passed us by, becoming one of the world's last remaining paradises.
Here, you'll discover that faith is a kind of happiness. The warmth of the sun dispels the chill of the night, and you awaken to the sound of the dancing wind. Don't say Zhagana is the place closest to God; God is in Zhagana, where nature and man are one, transcending the world and leaving no stone unturned.
Zhagana, a land that swallows the sky, is boundless and limitless. Here, the soul is shaken and passion is ignited.
Zhagana, a spiritual landmark for all mankind.
Of course, there are also stunning hiking trails here. The most popular one-day loop, covering approximately 23 kilometers with a 1,000-meter elevation gain, offers unique views of the Zhagana Mountains. Those with limited time and energy can try hiking along the One-Line Sky or Fairy Beach, offering a chance to experience a little Switzerland.
Tips:
【Photography tips】
One is the more popular Dari Village Viewing Platform. Another recommended viewing spot is Daiba Village. Park your car in the village and walk about 500 meters along the main road. You'll see a small temple, and then a green iron gate. Go through the gate and follow the only uphill road to the viewing platform.
After a reluctant farewell to Zhagana, we embarked on our return journey today. Departing in the afternoon, we could check into the Amigunghong Grassland Ranch Camp. Located on the Sangke Grassland, the camp boasts a stunning location, offering a secluded and isolated feel. Facing the vast grasslands, snow-capped mountains loom in the distance. At dawn and dusk, mist rises from the grasslands, and cattle and sheep freely graze and drink water, creating a scene that feels like living in an oil painting.
Experience two completely different worlds in the camp, where nomadic traditions dance with local culture, ancient history evolves into a beautiful future, and the pristine wilderness awakens the desire for peace. You can truly experience being a unique and authentic nomad.
Of course, having said so much, the price is definitely not cheap (ranging from about 1500 to 5000), and it is also difficult to find a room during the peak season.
At this point, it must be said that RVs offer unparalleled value for money. Enjoy the same grasslands, pastures, blue skies, and land. And with built-in outdoor aesthetics, savor the tranquility and beauty once again.
Waking up the next day, I took a deep breath of the cool, fresh air of the grasslands, mingled with the fragrance of flowers and plants, an intoxicating feeling. Burying fond memories, I continued on my return journey. Next stop, I'll re-examine what "the lean season" means.
Linxia Liujiaxia Reservoir: I believe almost everyone thinks the Yellow River is yellow. But when you arrive in Linxia, you'll find that the upper reaches of the Yellow River are incredibly clear, even swimmable. The Yellow River turns yellow after it merges with the Tao River, so from the viewing platform you'll see a distinct contrast between the two colors, intersecting but not blending.
Liujiaxia Reservoir is located in a plateau canyon, starting from Liujiaxia Dam in the east and ending at Binglingsi Gorge in the west. The lake is vast, the water and sky are one color, and the scenery is beautiful, so it enjoys the reputation of "Pearl of the Plateau".
Bingling Temple Grottoes can be visited by boat. The earliest name of Bingling Temple Grottoes was Tangshu Grottoes, which means "ghost cave" in Qiang language. It was called Longxing Temple in Tang Dynasty, Lingyan Temple in Song Dynasty and Bingling Temple after Yongle Period of Ming Dynasty. "Bingling" is the simplified form of Tibetan "Xianba Bingling", which means "thousand Buddhas" and "one hundred thousand Maitreya Buddha continent".
For lunch in Linxia, try Yellow River carp, also known as "Carp Cramp" or "Yellow River Golden-Winged Carp." Yellow River carp are plump, with rich, tender, and delicious meat. Rich in nutrients and low in fat, they are incredibly delicious no matter how you cook them. Their firm texture, delicate aroma, and minimal fishy odor make them a rare delicacy among carp.
The Liujiaxia Bridge, connecting Lanzhou and Linxia, spans the Yellow River with a towering, slender presence. As the largest span bridge in Northwest China, it boasts the narrowest width among bridges of its size. It is the first bridge to utilize concrete-filled steel tube structures (CFSTs) as suspension bridge towers, boasting the world's largest diameters. The towers' shape and tower-centered landscape design embody strong ethnic cultural characteristics. These unique conditions, ingenious design, and other topographical and geological factors contribute to the bridge's distinctive character.
Finally, we returned to Lanzhou, the final stop of this trip.
D1: Lanzhou
D2: Lanzhou - Labrang Monastery - Baishi Cliff - Gangga Secret Realm
D3: Gangga Secret Realm - Shanjue Tribe - Langmusi Town
Day 4: Langmusi Town - Geladi Temple - Namo Grand Canyon - Zhagana
D5: Zhagana-Fairy Beach-Amigonghong Grassland Pasture
D6: Amigonghong Grassland Ranch - Liujiaxia Reservoir - Lanzhou
Finally, I want to remind everyone that this world is truly beautiful. We're always traveling with our backpacks, meeting people, hearing stories, and witnessing the sights of travel, enriching our lives and hearts. However, protecting the environment, respecting history, and honoring local culture during our travels is something we should be proud of. Be like the wind, quietly going and leaving, without disturbing others, so that the world remains as beautiful and pure as it was originally.
I also wish you again that you can find a new self in every trip, and always move forward happily and explore happily.
