Live Your Best Lives
Cultural relics unearthed from the Haochuan Cultural Site in Sanren She Township confirm that there were records of human activities and reproduction in Suichang as early as more than 4,200 years ago. It belonged to Yue during the Xia, Shang and Western Zhou dynasties, and to Gumie during the Spring and Autumn Period. Most of the dynasties thereafter were under the jurisdiction of Chuzhou. Although it was not famous in history, it was able to live in a peaceful and prosperous corner.
Today, Suichang is a small county located in the mountainous area of southwestern Zhejiang. In addition, the county's forest coverage rate is 83.58%, the county's water quality is excellent, and the outbound water quality is above Class II all year round. Therefore, in my opinion, the saying "Mountains are all pictures, and water is no article" is very appropriate to describe Lishui Suichang.
When you travel here by car, you will see mountains and rivers everywhere you look. Of course, Suichang is more than just mountains and rivers. The ancient villages hidden in the mountains are its essence. At the end of the winding mountain road, there must be the paradise you want... Because of this beauty, we embarked on a 3-day and 2-night self-driving tour to explore the mountains, rivers and ancient villages.
Learn about the "Suichang Self-Driving Route" in one minute.
The Suichang self-driving route I chose mainly includes the well-known Nanjianyan Scenic Area, with visits to ancient villages along the way, including Banling Village, Dake Village, Wangcunkou, etc. Of course, when enjoying the beautiful scenery, you can't miss the local specialties.
Sea of clouds, terraced fields, mountain houses, high-altitude glass viewing bridge, southern Zhejiang houses with earth, mud walls and tiled structures, winding mountain roads, covered bridges, waterfalls, red culture, etc.
In summary, this self-driving route takes about 2-3 days.
DAY 1: Transportation to Suichang - Suichang Banquet - Banling Village - Nanjianyan (stay at Yunduan B&B/Nanjianyan Villa)
DAY 2: Nanjianyan Scenic Area – Lunch (Advance Division Restaurant) – Wangcunkou 1935 Cultural Tourism District / Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army Memorial Hall / Hongji Bridge / Jiefang Bridge / Red Book Bar / Shooting Range – Stay at Junjie's Homestay
DAY 3: Wangcunkou - Caiyuan Township - Dake Village - Suichang County (check in at "Cook Lady" and "Fenglu Memory" and other "Hundred Counties, Thousand Bowls" food experience stores) - return
This trip mainly consists of a bus and a chartered car. The bus from Hangzhou West Station to Suichang departs at 8:30 every morning and arrives in the county town around 11:50, where the journey begins. Of course, if you want more convenience, I personally recommend driving the entire route. (The winding mountain road is narrow and winding, so be sure to drive slowly.)
Because Suichang is located in a mountainous area and receives a lot of rain, it is best to bring a long-sleeved shirt with you in the morning and evening even if you come here in the summer.
The cost of living in Suichang County is not too high, and many scenic spots are open to the public free of charge. In this three-day and two-night itinerary, except for Nanjianyan, all other scenic spots are free, making it a very cost-effective travel treasure.
Located 850 meters above sea level, halfway up the mountain in the Nanjianyan Scenic Area, lies a small village called Banling. As I braved the rain and followed the winding mountain road to Dakeng Village, just across from Banling, the rain had just stopped and the mist was gradually dispersing, revealing Banling Village in the distance.
This was probably my first time seeing the ancient village of Lishui shrouded in mist. Naturally, I couldn't help myself, so I opened the car door and immediately grabbed my camera for a photo op. Banling Village, nestled in the mist, looked like a hidden gem hidden by a sea of clouds. The terraced fields, the sea of clouds, and the village complemented each other beautifully. Another ten minutes' drive would take me closer to admire the ancient village.
While Banling's ancient dwellings aren't particularly ancient, they all feature the traditional southern Zhejiang earth-wood, mud-wall, and tiled structures, naturally creating a unique charm. Of course, what captivated me most about Banling Village wasn't the dwellings themselves, but rather its relatively pristine atmosphere. Even during my brief visit, I could glimpse into the rural life of the people, working from sunrise to sunset.
Tips:
How to get to Banling Village: On the Shuanggui Line en route to the Nanjianyan Scenic Area, there's an intersection. One route leads to the Nanjianyan Scenic Area, while the other leads to Banling Village. If you're unsure, try navigating to the Banling B&B or the Dakeng Village Committee. (Remember to read the map carefully, as there are several Banling villages in Suichang. The one closest to Nanjianyan on the map is the Banling Village mentioned in this article.)
I have seen the majesty of Mount Tai, the steepness of Mount Hua and the beauty of Mount Huang. I thought I would never be nostalgic for mountains and rivers again. However, Nanjian Rock, which is secluded in a corner, gave me another sense of beauty and made me redefine the beauty of mountains and rivers - the Pure Land of Peach Blossom Land.
From the information on the Internet, you can find a lot of introductions about it. For example, Nanjianyan integrates dangerous peaks, waterfalls, bamboo forests, wetlands, sea of clouds and terraces, mountain people, rare birds and animals and other resources. The most wonderful thing about Nanjianyan to me is the sea of clouds and terraces, ancient villages and the cascading waterfalls in the mountains.
Of course, it is not an ordinary thing to see these three kinds of beautiful scenery combined. Generally speaking, you can only encounter such beautiful scenery in the morning after the rain. I was honored to see it on my first trip to Nanjian Rock.
It is difficult to describe the scenery of Nanjian Rock after the clouds and mist have parted. The clouds and mist gradually dissipated, revealing the layers of terraces and ancient villages in the distance. Looking up, there is a sea of clouds again, and in the near distance, there are twin peaks piercing the clouds.
In addition to visiting scenic spots, you can choose a room with a viewing window in Nanjianyan Scenic Area (Shisuntou Village, Wangcunkou Town) and spend a day in the "clouds" without leaving the room.
There are quite a few houses like this in the Nanjianyan Scenic Area. I personally recommend the Yunduan B&B, which has better accommodation conditions.
Yunduan B&B has 11 themed rooms, all named after clouds, such as Cloud Mirror, Cloud Brocade, Cloud Stream, Cloud Dwelling, and Cloud Smoke. These rooms sound poetic and picturesque, and most rooms offer views from the windows, whether you're looking at a sea of clouds in the morning or chasing sunset in the evening.
By the way, I almost forgot to mention that the owner of the B&B has been a chef for more than ten years. Therefore, when staying in the clouds, you can't miss out on tasting the authentic Suichang mountain flavor. The dinner mainly consists of bacon stewed with bamboo shoots, yellow steak stew, braised stream fish and other local mountain dishes. Breakfast is paired with pumpkin porridge, brown sugar steamed buns, flower rolls, and various side dishes.
It is hard to imagine that Wangcunkou Town, hidden in the mountains, was once so glorious. It began to prosper during the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty, and especially during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, it reached its peak due to the development of water transportation.
It can be imagined that in its heyday, there were more than 100 shops on the old street of Wangcunkou Town, with more than 40 types of business. Every day, ships came and went on the Wuxi River, transporting timber and bamboo out and bringing in grain and cloth. It was a continuous stream.
Unfortunately, with the rise of land transportation and developed water transportation, Wangcunkou Town gradually lost its former prosperity. It was not until it was developed into a red tourism town in recent years that Wangcunkou Town gradually came into the sight of tourists.
There are many attractions in Wangcunkou Town. On the west bank pier, a statue of Mazu guards the Wuxi River. She is the sea goddess of Chinese fishermen and also witnessed the prosperity of water transportation here in the past.
The Red Army Advance Division Memorial Hall with rich collections, Hongji Bridge where the Advance Division held mass meetings, Cai Xiang Temple, the former site of the Soviet government, the former site of the Advance Division headquarters and other attractions bear witness to the history of the Southwest Zhejiang guerrilla base centered on Wangcunkou, and also show us that red era.
Aerial photography of Wangcunkou Town reveals a picturesque scene, with a river sandwiched between two mountains and an ancient town nestled in the middle. Other notable attractions include the 1935 Cultural and Tourism District, Jiefang Bridge, the ancient residential buildings on the old street, and the Red Book Bar.
Recommended dishes: beef and pickled mustard greens soup with vermicelli, stir-fried beef, black rice fried rice, Wangcunkou braised eggs, local potatoes, etc.
The seemingly simple Tingjinshi Restaurant is a popular online restaurant in Wangcunkou. Inside, you'll discover a different world, with murals showcasing the revolutionary era. The first-floor lobby can accommodate a large crowd, while the second floor features distinctive red private rooms for group building or dining out.
The food prepared in the restaurant is mostly based on local specialties. Beef is the store's signature dish, and there are many ways to eat beef, such as beef and shredded radish hotpot, beef and pickled mustard greens soup with vermicelli, stir-fried beef, etc. Those who like spicy food will definitely be surprised.
You can also try Wumi fried rice, green pepper and local potatoes, white-cut chicken, and farmhouse tofu stew. Tips: Tingjinshi Hotel is on the main street of Wangcunkou and is easy to find. Accommodation recommendation: Since it is a popular red tourism ancient town, there are many accommodations in the town. Tingjinshi Hotel and Junjiejia B&B are recommended.
On the way from Wangcunkou to Dake Village, you will pass by Wuxi River. Both sides of the river are lined with houses with the characteristics of southern Zhejiang. You can also encounter an ancient bridge listed as a county-level cultural relic protection. It is also very suitable for parking and checking in.
As distinctive as the ancient bridge is the ancient village hidden in the mountains. Caiyuan Township, the hometown of opera culture, once produced the "Cai He Troupe". Today, when walking in the pastoral Caiyuan Township, you can still feel the profound feeling left by this opera culture.
After passing Caiyuan Township, continue walking along the winding mountain road for about ten minutes, and you will arrive at another paradise - Dake Village, which is a famous photographer's paradise in Suichang.
Dake Village, located at an altitude of 560 meters, is built on the mountain. Houses with yellow walls and black tiles, which are characteristic of southern Zhejiang, stand in the mountains. Together with the stacked terraces, it looks like a "golden Potala Palace".
There are many alleys in Dake Village, most of which are paved with cobblestones. It is very pleasant to walk on them, and one can't help but recite the line "Dogs bark in the deep alleys, chickens crow on the top of mulberry trees."
Tips:
Recommended best shooting location: In fact, the most beautiful place to shoot Dake Village is not when entering the village, but on the road opposite Dake Village.
Recommended dishes: fish head pot, beef in old soup, stir-fried beef with young ginger, ginger chicken, spicy pork ribs, etc.
I have to admire the foodies of Suichang. For one thing, the mountainous region is rich in resources, resulting in fresh and authentic ingredients. For another, they're also incredibly creative in creating delicious dishes. At noon on the third day, returning to the county town from Dake Village, I planned to have a delicious meal on the street. I chose Suichang Banquet at 198 Shuige Road. The name itself suggested a rendezvous with the wild flavors of Suichang.
Indeed, both the decoration and the food have a date-like feel. The first floor is the lobby, with a large food selection area where dishes are delicately arranged on plates.
On the boss's recommendation, our group of three chose the braised pork ribs with bamboo shoots, the three-story wind furnace pot, stir-fried yellow beef, home-cooked Xianxia Lake organic fish, and Suichang long rice dumplings.
The braised pork ribs with bamboo shoots are made with the freshest seasonal bamboo shoots, and they are crispy and delicious when you bite into them.
Special mention should be made of the three-layered wind furnace pot, which is a local delicacy of Suichang, commonly known as Suichang pig-killing dish. It is usually used to entertain distinguished guests and is also a must-try specialty food for tourists traveling to Suichang.
The ingredients used are very rich, with farm radish as the base, and fresh pork belly, pig blood and farm salted tofu are added and rolled into a pot. Finally, it is cooked on low heat in a blast stove. It has a unique taste when eaten while cooking.
During the Dragon Boat Festival, there is a custom in Suichang of eating long rice dumplings. The so-called "Suichang long rice dumplings" are also known as "long love rice dumplings" and "sharing rice dumplings". The length ranges from dozens of centimeters to one or two meters. Compared with the daily rice dumplings, they look more domineering.
Long Zongzi comes in two flavors: salty and sweet. The salty ones are mainly filled with salted egg yolk, which is fresh and fragrant; the sweet ones are mainly filled with red bean paste and date paste, which is sweet but not greasy.
Other restaurants suitable for check-in: Chef·Peony Pavilion, Fenglu Memory and other "Poetic and Picturesque Zhejiang·Hundred Counties and Thousands of Bowls" food experience stores, Lanting Cultural Restaurant
This is my first trip to Suichang, Lishui. Whether it is Nanjian Rock in the sea of clouds, Dake and Banling on the terraced fields, Wangcunkou, a red town on the Wuxi River, or Suichang cuisine with unique local flavor, all of them have made me look at this treasure town with new eyes. I look forward to unlocking more beautiful scenery in Suichang next time.
