Junjunjuner | 2023-05-15 | 32800

Yunnan Lijiang Travel Guide | This is the first dream for those who yearn for poetry and distant places

Preface

Lijiang, a place known as the "Utopia," has ever-changing weather, adding a touch of mystery and surprise to those who explore the city, without affecting its unique delicacy and diversity.

When the sun works hard to drive away the dark clouds and the clear blue sky and white clouds appear in the afternoon, you will know that light and wind have shapes.

When "Yunnan's Eighteen Strange Things, Raining in the East and Sunny in the West" becomes a daily experience, you will find that you love this city more and more.

Embrace the wind blowing from Lugu Lake, sit on the Mosuo people's unique pig trough boat, and encounter water lilies on the calm lake; travel to the medieval pastoral Tinghua Valley, and enter a fairy tale world among the Hobbit's mountain huts and brilliant flowers.

Wander through the gentle hustle and bustle of Lijiang Old Town, where the flowing water and small bridges are the ultimate romance of Jiangnan, and breathe in the refreshing fragrance of osmanthus flowers. Stroll through Baisha Ancient Town and Yuhu Village, the ancient capital of Naxi, and discover the secluded ancient villages hidden at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, where you'll encounter authentic local customs and practices.

This is the first dream of everyone who longs for poetry and distant places. It is also a dreamland where, no matter how many times you come here, every time you encounter the mountains, rivers and lakes here, your heart will still beat fast, and you will still want to go there thousands of times.

1. Lugu Lake | Immersed in the tenderness of oil painting from sunrise to sunset

Romantic white clouds not only float in the sky, but also float in the water. Relax comfortably under a lonely tree, by the tranquil lake, watching the white clouds pass by and the time go by.

——This is a real scene that I discovered only after I came to Lugu Lake in Yunnan.

Living in this great nature, time slows down. Yaks graze leisurely on the roadside, streams gurgle, and you'll even find mushrooms slowly opening their umbrellas.

——From sunrise to sunset, every frame in my eyes is like a landscape oil painting.

Tips:

📍 Yunnan|Lugu Lake Scenic Area, Ninglang Yi Autonomous County, Provincial Highway 307

🎫 Tickets|70r/adult includes the entire Lugu Lake Scenic Area (ID card required for real-name authentication)

🚗 Transportation | Charter a car or drive around the lake - The photo spots in the scenic area are very scattered, and public transportation such as shuttle buses is very inconvenient. If you are departing from Yunnan, you can rent a car in [Baisha] or [Shuhe]

🗺 Tour route: Lugu Lake Observation Deck - Daluoshui Village - Lover's Beach - Lige Observation Deck - Xiaoluoshui

Lugu Lake Observation Deck

A four-hour drive from Lijiang, weaving through winding mountain roads, is a journey worthwhile, just for the lakeside ferry ride or stargazing. I'm already content, wanting to immerse myself in the gentle warmth of this misty blue lake.

The Lugu Lake Scenic Area Observation Deck is the first point we see after entering the scenic area from the Yunnan entrance. It can be reached by walking straight along the wooden plank road in the scenic area to the lakeside. It is an observation deck with a pavilion for resting and a stone fence. From here, you can overlook the entire Lugu Lake and the Goddess Gemu Mountain from the highest point.

Lugu Lake, known as the "Daughter Kingdom of the East," actually means "lake in the ravine" in the Mosuo language, a straightforward and unadorned expression. From the observation deck, the view is of pure, shimmering blue waters surrounded by rolling mountains.

Seeing this scene, I realized that the dreamy romance that the Mosuo people did not mention to the outside world was actually to give the travelers who came here a surprise and gift from nature.

Though the observation deck is small, the scenery that greets you at first glance is truly breathtaking. In the distance, rolling green, forested mountains stretch out, and at their foot, clusters of colorful buildings gather. A few pig trough boats drift on the tranquil, captivating blue lake. Suddenly, I have the illusion of an Italian fishing village, but I know it deserves its name: Lugu Lake.

Daluoshui Village

In Daluoshui Village, I embraced the wind blowing from Lugu Lake and boarded the colorful pig trough boat unique to the Mosuo people. Fortunately, I met the water lilies on the lake.

The car stopped beside the road of Mulengzi bungalows and walked along the wooden plank road to the lake. This small harbor seemed full of spiritual energy. The Goddess Gem Mountain in the distance was clearly visible. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the lake was like a mirror, reflecting all the beauty in the village.

Perhaps the most distinctive feature here is the rows of pig trough boats docked at the pier! The narrow, long, colorful boats sway against the azure blue of Lugu Lake and the rolling green mountains, forming a romantic oil painting. Under the blue sky and white clouds, it's like a dream, and the colors are so bright that you won't want to leave.

I asked the villagers and learned that a one-hour trip around the lake on a pig trough boat costs 70 yuan per person, but taking photos on board is free! Sitting at the bow of the boat, gazing out into the distance, the water is so clear that you can see seaweed in the water, and the waves lapping against the small rocks on the shore.

This small village at the foot of lush green mountains has even its paths dubbed the "Mosuo Fengqing Road". I was quite amazed when I accidentally passed by S Bay. Perhaps the villagers living in these colorful wooden houses are really happy with their contented life!

Yunnan Lover's Beach

On the quiet Lover's Beach, under the lonely tree, the romance remains undiminished.

The Yunnan Lover's Beach in Lugu Lake is a large sloping land. There are several lonely big trees beside the quiet lake, like a bunch of open green velvet umbrellas. The dense branches and leaves cover the sky and some branches and leaves even hang down on Lugu Lake. When the wind blows the leaves, the lake surface will rise and fall with a layer of slight ripples.

A tree's annual rings, a lake's scenery, a lush and old tree quietly stays by the lake, probably having heard many people's thoughts. But resting under the tree by the lake and quietly looking at the Lugu Lake that you never get tired of is the most healing way to travel here!

Besides the water itself, the most dynamic aspect of Lugu Lake is the ever-changing clouds, especially during the rainy season. Mornings are often overcast, but as the afternoon begins to clear, the clouds sometimes appear as soft and lovely as cotton candy, sometimes a dark cloud drifts by, and sometimes as majestic as a galloping horse. The lake also changes its appearance with the changing clouds.

Rigg Peninsula

This place, a teardrop on the azure Lugu Lake, boasts wooden and black-tiled houses nestled against the hillside, creating a truly idyllic scene. The evening sun shines generously, casting a golden veil over the eaves, the lake, and the mountains. Be sure to catch a sunrise here! The clouds will delight you.

Life on this small island in the lake must be very slow. A small path connects the tail of the island to the inland mountains. Rige was originally a small island inhabited by the Mosuo people.

However, due to its popularity in the tourism circle in recent years, the island has become a homestay and restaurant. Later, due to the excessive number of tourists, the sewage discharged on the island affected the environment of Lugu Lake. Now all the homestays on the island have been demolished, and one can only look at this beautiful island from afar on the Rig Peninsula Observation Deck. Perhaps this is also a way to protect it and keep it beautiful.

Near the observation deck on the Rig Peninsula, prayer flags flutter in the wind across the pine forest and meadows. Mani piles, scattered everywhere, offer devout prayers, creating a particularly mystical atmosphere. Walking along the narrow, cobblestone path to the lake, the sprawling Rig Village emerges with remarkable tranquility.

I'd hoped to catch the blues hour, but unexpectedly, the sunset here was also breathtakingly beautiful. The clouds, shimmering with golden light, playfully transformed into all sorts of lovely shapes. Although the buildings on the Rig Peninsula no longer twinkled like stars, the setting sun cast a soft, pink glow across the lake, a melody that sang for the quiet island.

Xiaoluoshui Village

Xiaoluoshui, located at the junction of Sichuan and Yunnan, is small and quiet. Living by the lake, you can see the morning light looming in the mist, the warm midday sun rising day by day, and the Milky Way with stars in the sky. This is the freedom and romance sung in poetry.

During this trip to Lugu Lake, we chose to stay in Xiaoluoshui Village because it is more comfortable and away from the hustle and bustle than Daluoshui Village, but it also has the Mosuo people's unique pig trough boat dock, which is like a condensed version of Lugu Lake.

II. Lijiang | Ancient Towns Where Time Slows Down

Lijiang, located in the south of Yunnan, is a place of slow life with peaceful days. This corner of the ancient city is half bustling with life and half poetic, and it contains the authentic customs and culture of the Naxi people.

Here, a young man plays guitar and sings about a day in Lijiang. The clouds and mist dissipate, leaving only a dream.

When traveling in Yunnan, you always wander between dreams and reality. When you come to Lijiang, you must hang out in these places or stay for a few days. There is magic here, it can slow down time.

Lijiang Old Town

The days and nights in Lijiang Ancient Town are like the gentle fireworks of human life. Time goes by very slowly among the gray walls and green tiles in the alleys of the ancient town. Occasionally, when you turn a corner and walk into a street, you will always be amazed by the Naxi customs and suddenly sigh, "This is the life I yearn for."

From the streets and alleys to the ancient and prosperous houses on the top of the mountain, flowers bloom at every intersection, the crisscrossing alleys seem to have no end, the densely packed shops and the original wooden carved doors and windows and the warm lights are like breaking into a series of feng shui paintings of the Jiangnan region.

The ancient charm of Lijiang Old Town is not only in Sifang Street and the big waterwheel, but also in the more delicate and stunning small streets and alleys.

1. Centenary Square

"Water flows, two carts turn, a hundred small bridges stretch across. Ancient tea-horse roads stretch far, ancient willows bloom in the new spring." This line perfectly captures this alley. On the left side of the alley are vintage shops, and on the right are gourmet restaurants across the stream. Each shop entrance leads to a small stone bridge, and both the bridges and the exteriors are filled with vibrant flowers and greenery. The cozy atmosphere of the small bridges and flowing water is self-evident.

2. Dayan Flower Lane

Perhaps the most stunning ancient street in Lijiang Old Town is Dayan Flower Alley. It's home to a vibrant array of Yunnan-themed shops, cultural and creative products, and gourmet food. You'll also find a vibrant rainbow staircase, lush bougainvillea at the corner, and colorful wish cards beneath a majestic tree.

You can also walk along the stone steps to the viewing platform of the Eye of Lijiang, overlooking the cityscape of Dayan Ancient Town. The clusters of white-walled and green-tiled bungalows of different heights provide an excellent view.

3. Sifang Street and the Waterwheel

This block is the center of Dayan Ancient Town. It is very prosperous both during the day and at night. Various Yunnan-style food stores, handicraft workshops, and souvenirs are gathered here. I really like the dusk here. The light and shadow on the eaves of the ancient town are very layered, which seems to make everything around more gentle.

The Big Waterwheel is a landmark building in the ancient city. "Mother-and-Child Waterwheel" or "Lover's Waterwheel" are its nicknames. The wishing pavilion is located in the Big Waterwheel Square, and there are a whole pavilion full of wishing boards hanging on it.

4. Xianwen Lane

Guangyi Street, now known as Wenxiang, is filled with the romantic charm of traditional Chinese culture, with oil-paper umbrellas. I stumbled across this spot in the evening, and the sunlight filtered through the umbrellas, revealing the lucky Tyndall light. It turns out light is so beautiful when it has form.

I made a special trip back to Oil-Paper Umbrella Street at night to discover its ancient charm. Remember to walk deeper into the alleys; you'll find a variety of oil-paper umbrellas hanging along the narrow streets, reflecting the warm yellow lights of the shops. It's a warm and retro experience!

Wandering in the streets with oil-paper umbrellas, even if you get lost in Lijiang at night, you will still feel romantic. Strolling along the ancient street, gazing at the halfway point of Lion Rock, dotted with stars, this ancient city that is also full of fireworks at night makes me fall deeper and deeper in love with it.

Baisha Ancient Town

Named "Baisha", it is hidden at the foot of the snow-capped mountains. As the ancient capital of the Naxi people, it lives up to its reputation for simplicity. It is more ancient than Shuhe Ancient Town or Lijiang Ancient Town.

Although it rained and I couldn't see the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain behind the clouds, this trip to the ancient town still made me travel back to ancient times in a second.

The Naxi people still wear local costumes, carry bamboo baskets on their backs, and walk through the streets; on the busy streets, the cries of various vendors can be heard, and the copper-beating, pancake-making, and fruit-selling people are all very lively.


The small shops in the ancient town are very local. Whether it is a tie-dye shop, a tavern or an ethnic clothing store, they are all worth a slow stroll and a closer look. Every household has a dog to watch over the shop, which is very cozy.













There is a shop called "Yiwatang" here, right in front of the Baisha Ancient Town Archway. It has an elegant Chinese style design and decoration. You can also take photos with the ancient town archway on the second-floor coffee shop terrace. If the weather is clear, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is behind it!


At the end of my stroll through the ancient town, I stopped by a retro shop called "Chengbei Mail" and mailed a postcard to my future self. He or she will probably miss this leisurely time in Baisha Ancient Town when they receive it!

Yuhu Village

At the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain lies one of the most secluded ancient villages in Yunnan, a place where people long for a slower pace of life. This is Yuhu Village.

Yuhu Village in Lijiang is the birthplace of the thousand-year-old Naxi culture. It is backed by snow-capped mountains and faces the blue lake. In the distance are continuous and lush green mountains and meadows, and nearby are rows of bluestone and black tile bungalows. While preserving the complete Naxi culture, it also has the desirable quiet and slow life.

Wandering along the gravel road in the village, you may occasionally encounter one or two horses, or old ladies chatting or knitting under a tree, or old men smoking and talking about family matters in dialect at the door of the store, or a few children playing with bamboo leaves, jumping and skipping for joy.

I heard that the houses in Yuhu Village are all built with glacial stone from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The bluestone and black tiled houses have been weathered by years of frost, as if each stone holds the warmth of time. When visiting Yuhu Village, be sure to visit the Locke Former Residence Exhibition Hall, where American explorer John Locke lived for 27 years. There are many historical relics worth seeing, or visit the traditional homes of the Naxi people.

We passed by a "Pu Shi Cafe", which offers accommodation, a vintage clothing store, pastries, and coffee. The stone walls and European-style glazed window grilles go well together. I didn't expect their custard to be so delicious.

Tinghua Valley

Traveling through the medieval pastoral Tinghua Valley, the Hobbit cottage, the snow mountain castle, the lake meadow and the sea of ​​flowers, I want to get lost in these scenes of Hayao Miyazaki's fairy tale.

Besides the ethnic customs, my favorite thing about Lijiang is probably this place. It's the perfect season, with lush green meadows and blooming flowers. It's like being transported to a medieval countryside in a split second, perfect for a fantastic film shoot!

1. The Hobbit's Mountain House

It is located at the innermost part of the scenic area and can be seen by walking around a lake. There are three Hobbit huts stacked on the mountainside. There are also several alpacas or ponies grazing here. Wearing a retro European skirt, a cowboy hat, holding a book, and strolling freely on the meadow, it feels like this is your own home!

2. Hydrangea Sea

There are many flower fields during the flower season. This time I only chose the hydrangea field that I like very much. The tenderness of the pink hydrangea is really dreamy. Come to Tinghua Valley and be a princess in a fairy tale for a day.


Tips:

📍 Yunnan|No. 100, Gouluo Village, Baisha Town, Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, Lijiang City

🚗 Transportation | Drive or take a taxi directly to "Lijiang Tinghua Valley" (10 minutes from Baisha/Shuhe Ancient Town; 30 minutes from Lijiang Old Town)

⏰ Time|09:00-18:00 Recommended time for playing: 3-4 hours

🎟 Tickets|120 yuan/person

Part 3: Laojun Mountain | Exploring the Wild Beauty of Danxia Landform

At the Laojun Mountain Dawn Scenic Area in Lijiang, Yunnan, the Jinsha River, Lancang River and Nu River flow parallel to each other among the mountains. The colorful Danxia landforms, stone peaks and pillars are particularly spectacular.

The enthusiastic Lisu people sing loud folk songs to welcome travelers. Here, the unrestrained wind gives vitality to every mountain and river, and weathering and erosion make the Danxia landform more unique and bizarre.

Travel Guide and Routes

The Laojun Mountain Dawn Scenic Area is very large. You can take a break when passing the First Bend of the Jinsha River or Shigu Town. The river and mountain views here are also very breathtaking, especially from the aerial view, where you can see the endless bends of the river. The villages, rivers and mountains are like a beautiful feng shui painting.

Tips:

Warm reminder: When taking aerial photos of the First Bend of the Jinsha River and the Yangtze River, remember to pay attention to the signal. If you want to capture the entire First Bend, flying towards the mountains behind will result in signal isolation. Be careful and pay attention to controlling the distance and altitude of the drone!

Liming Laojun Mountain National Geopark is a great place for hiking or rock climbing in Lijiang. Along the way, you can appreciate the wonders of nature, with overlapping peaks, steep cliffs and rocks, which are a series of magnificent and magical scenes.

Tips:

📍 Yunnan|Liming Township, Yulong Naxi Autonomous County, Lijiang City

🚗 Transportation|From Baisha or Shuhe Ancient Town, it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes to drive or charter a car

🗺 Tour | Qiangui Mountain Route: Red Stone Street – Qiangui Mountain Cableway (take two cableway sections up the mountain) – Qiangui Mountain Hiking Trail (pass by: Azalea Valley – Walking in the Clouds – Lansheng Viewing Platform – Misi Mountain God – Elephant Chasing Dragon Rui – Liming River Valley) – Qiangui Mountain (views of Buddha Peak and Sleeping Buddha) – Qiangui Mountain Hiking Trail (pass by large cross-bedding – view of Lover's Pillar) – Qiangui Mountain Cableway (take the first cableway section down the mountain)

Dawn Laojun Mountain National Geopark

After entering the geological park, you will be surrounded by mountains. Looking up at the sky, you will be shocked by the mountains that seem to soar into the clouds and split the earth into pieces. This hard-core and beautiful work of nature is so amazing that it makes you sigh deeply.

At the entrance, the scenic area's electric car will take us to the Qiangui Mountain Cableway Station. The aerial cableway can only accommodate two people. The cableway has two sections. The second section is relatively steep, but the surroundings gradually open up, taking in the panoramic view of Laojun Mountain, and more and more Danxia landforms come into view.

From the aerial cable car, you can already see the Lover's Pillar from afar, and you will be shocked by the towering red stone pillars on the cliff.

After getting off the cable car, you need to hike for about an hour to complete the scenic area. First, we go up the mountain a short distance and pass through the Azalea Valley. At the end of the Cloud Walk Trail, turn left and walk onto the Lansheng Road, which is about 150 meters long and reaches the highest point of Qiangui Mountain - Lansheng Viewing Platform.

The altitude here is approximately 2,700 meters, giving you the feeling of "standing on the summit, overlooking all the other mountains," and offering a panoramic view of the Danxia Mountain scenery. Our Lisu guide explained that the Taishang Laojun (Emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty) refined elixir on Laojun Mountain, and the surging, unquenchable flame spread across the area, creating this vibrant red sandstone.

Following the wooden plank road, we arrived at the viewing platform where we could see the mountain god Misi. This is the mountain god of the Lisu people - "Misi", who sits upright and guards the tranquility of dawn.

Then we arrived at the "Elephant Chasing Dragon" viewing platform. The scene was created by two elephants that looked like they were following a dragon to worship the main peak of Laojun Mountain. It is said that if you face Laojun and silently recite your wishes here, you will have the blessing of having your wishes come true!

The guide also sang a Lisu ballad for everyone on this auspicious viewing platform, and the melodious sound echoed throughout the valley.

She also told us that the Lisu people are a nation that chases the sun and loves the color red, and the colorful Lisu clothing is a symbol of hard work.

After passing the Dawn Valley, the trail along the way is a well-maintained wooden plank road, so there is no need to worry about hiking discomfort. There will be green trees all around, which is very cool.

As we walked, we arrived at the innermost part of the scenic area - Qiangui Mountain. Not only the top of the mountain, but also the stone pillars and road surfaces along the way have very distinctive cross-bedding due to wind erosion. The top of Qiangui Mountain is a beautiful cracked shape formed by the weathering of red rocks.

From the summit of Qiangui Mountain, you can gaze directly at Buddha Peak in the distance. This Danxia rock peak, shaped like a Buddha's hair bun, rises in layers, forming a unique dawn landscape. From a distance, it resembles a reclining Buddha.

Walking up along the long and narrow trail, we reached the top of the mountain. The view suddenly became wider. The blue sky and white clouds were so close here that they seemed to be within reach. There were strange peaks and rocks, lonely trees on the cliffs, and the unique Danxia landform. This trip was worthwhile!






On the way down the mountain, you will pass by the viewing platform of Lover's Pillar. The old trees and railings here are hung with Lisu prayer strips and wish boards.

The cable car only goes down one section, but the scenery along the way is so beautiful that you never get tired of it. The peaks are stacked one after another, and the mountains are connected to each other, with a refreshing green. It is a beautiful scenery that is not often seen in the city!

At the entrance of the scenic spot, we tasted a local Yunnan specialty dish - 6 bowls of local soil, three-line bacon, vegetable tofu, crispy pork from farmers, clear-boiled local chicken, bacon soup with dried vegetables and stir-fried meat from farmers, etc. Each dish is a delicacy that the locals like to eat, and it feels very much in line with the appetite of Guangdong people!

IV. A Serious and Practical Strategy

Accommodation Summary

1. Lijiang Ancient Town - Tinghua Hall

This B&B, nestled in a small alley in Lijiang Old Town, is a romantic garden. The third-floor terrace is stunning, offering a panoramic view of Dayan Old Town. From the flower corridors to the rooms, the B&B is filled with exquisite details, creating a feeling of being surrounded by flowers.

2. Hotel Indigo Lijiang Ancient Town

Located at the south gate of Dayan Ancient Town, this hotel is a Lijiang-style tea-horse culture hotel. The horse caravan culture here is more oriental and charming, just like staying in an inn on the ancient Tea Horse Road. From the trunks and saddles in the lobby, the horse hollow decorations in the restaurant, to the horseshoe-shaped wardrobe design in the room, it is like traveling back in time in a second!

I really love the garden style of the hotel. The courtyard is filled with the fresh fragrance of osmanthus. Whether you are strolling under the willow trees, walking through the porch, or overlooking the courtyard from the second floor, every step brings a new scene, and you can easily take great photos of the ancient city!



Each room has its own courtyard. Opening the small wooden door, you can enjoy a cup of tea in the courtyard. The rooms are spacious and bright, with everything you need, including a coffee table, desk, dressing room, and bathtub. A capsule coffee machine and Dyson hair dryer provide all the comforts of a modern stay. I especially love the kraft paper scroll of the ancient city map on the desk. This hotel truly delights those who love details!

3. Lijiang Fuyoucheng Albinong Holiday Apartment

I love this secret utopia at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain! The retro buildings with red piles and gray tiles and the single-family courtyard villas offer a relaxing escape amidst the charm of the mountains.

Behind the resort lies a vast grassland beneath snow-capped mountains. The blue sky and white clouds shimmer with dappled shadows of trees. Beneath a lone tree, I set up a table and camp chairs for an afternoon of camping beneath the snowy mountains. I heard this 500-year-old tree is called "Amei Ze," which means "place where mothers gave birth" in the Naxi language, a perfect fit for this pure and tranquil spot.







4. Baisha Ancient Town Qingpu Cultural Inn

This secluded retreat nestled beneath the snow-capped mountains retains the traditional Naxi courtyard layout, constructed with Wuhua stone from Yulong Snow Mountain, fir wood from Baisha Ancient Town, and Dongba paper. The wooden gatehouse, the Wuhua stone latticework, and the ponds scattered throughout the residence epitomize the waterside lifestyle of every Naxi person.


The room incorporates Japanese Wabi-Sabi style, and the wooden decoration is very warm. You can go up to the terrace along the spiral staircase outside the room and overlook the pleasant scenery of the village and fields.

Food Summary

1. Yuhu Village Shujia – Xiaoqing Spicy Hotpot

2. Yuhu Village, Aqiang's Home – Yak Hotpot

3. Lijiang Ancient Town: Enjoy a delicious meal and drink – Mushroom Hotpot

4. Lijiang Old Town Nawei Rice Noodles – Authentic Yunnan Rice Noodles