Live Your Best Lives
Gannan, the southern part of Gansu Province, is known as "China's Little Tibet and Gansu's Back Garden." Fei Xiaotong called it "a window to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau" and "a springboard for Tibetan modernization."
This 45,000 square kilometer territory has witnessed human development since the Neolithic Age. It has been selected as one of the world's 50 most liberating outdoor paradises by Horizon and Expeditions, two of the most prestigious American travel magazines. It has also been recognized as one of the 50 must-see destinations by National Geographic China and Travel & Travel Magazine.
Gannan is a secret place located in the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau extending to Gansu. The average altitude here is about 3,000 meters, not as high as Tibet, but equally full of beauty.
However, Gannan is not just about the altitude, it has all the characteristics of Tibet: temples, villages, grasslands, lakes, rivers, mountains, canyons... Different from the tough and harsh Tibetan area, Gannan is more gentle, with sacred mountains and lakes, as well as a rich religious culture.
On September 29, 2023, I set foot on this mysterious land and started my journey to the colorful Gannan.
This place is filled with simplicity, breathtaking beauty, and a world away from the hustle and bustle. If Gansu's beauty is ten points, at least five points belong to Gannan. Over the next six days, I will traverse this magnificent land of Gannan.
The itinerary is as follows: Starting from Lanzhou, the first stop is the Gangga Grassland and Labrang Monastery, the world's center of Tibetan studies. Continuing on, we explore the mysterious Diebu Zhagana, Ruoergai Flower Lake, and the first bend of the Yellow River. We then arrive at Langmusi Town, visit Sichuan Temple and Gansu Temple, and hike through the Namo Grand Canyon. Enjoy the scenery of Gannan along the way.
Afghanistan during the day, Manhattan at night. If you love Lanzhou, I will treat you to beef noodles; if you don’t love Lanzhou, then I can only treat you to Lanzhou ramen.
Lanzhou, once known as Jincheng in ancient times, symbolizes a "golden city and hot springs." With a history spanning over 2,000 years, the city has long served as a vital transportation hub and military stronghold, connecting the four directions and guarding vast territories. Lanzhou enjoys a prime geographical location, situated along the ancient Silk Road.
Lanzhou is not only famous for its beef noodles, but also for its romantic scenery along the Yellow River. Coming to Lanzhou, I can't help but think of Song Dongye's line: "Stranger, please give me a Lanzhou."
Low Wormwood Band sings in the song "Lanzhou, Lanzhou": Tonight, the lonely hills behind the White Pagoda are quietly raining. The Yellow River, which has not flowed east, has a momentary ripple. Thousands of miles away, you are awake all night in the high-rise building.
I set foot on this land again. As usual, I started my trip to Poland with a bowl of beef noodles (don’t mention Lanzhou ramen) and a cup of Fangha (a milk tea brand that local young people prefer to drink).
Early in the morning, while the traffic jam in Lanzhou city has not yet reached its peak, we will cross Jincheng Lanzhou, embark on the Lanhai Expressway, pass through Linxia County, and head to Xiahe.
As you travel through Linxia County, you'll notice a variety of mosques and temples dotted along the streets. Linxia Prefecture is primarily populated by Muslims, and their sincere faith has earned it the nickname "Mecca of the East." Located at the crossroads of the ancient Silk Road's southern route, it was a key town on the Tang-Tibet Road.
This is the hometown of Chinese painted pottery, brick carving, and flowers, and is also home to the Bingling Temple Grottoes, a World Cultural Heritage Site. Due to time constraints, I wasn't able to stop here. If I had, I'd recommend visiting the Liujiaxia Reservoir, Bingling Temple Grottoes, Eight Lanes and Thirteen Alleys, the Hezheng Ancient Fossil Museum, and Songmingyan National Forest Park....
After passing Linxia, we drove all the way to Xiahe. The altitude kept rising along the way. The altitude of Jincheng Lanzhou is 1520M, and the altitude of Xiahe, the first stop, will reach about 2900M, nearly doubled. The altitudes in the next few days are as follows: Zhagana (about 2900m), Tangke (about 3500m), Langmusi Town (about 3300m)... The altitude shows a trend of gradually increasing. For most people, the altitude of more than 3000 meters will still cause mild altitude sickness. We must make some preparations in advance and reduce the amount of exercise.
We soon arrived in Xiahe County. After a quick lunch, we set off for the Shanjue Tribe on the Gangga Grasslands. The Shanjue Gangga Environmental Protection Team, a self-organized grassroots environmental protection group formed by herders from the Gangga Grasslands, travels through the grasslands and deep waters, engaging in environmental protection activities such as student aid, nature education, eco-tours, and garbage cleanup.
Master Sangjie, the founder of the Shanjue Tribe Public Welfare Organization, whose Dharma name is Sangjie Gyatso, was born in 1977 in Xike Tribe Village, Gangga Township, Xiahe County, and is currently a monk at Labrang Monastery.
After connecting with the Nianbao Yuze Environmental Protection Association, Master Sangjie not only delved into mountain deity culture but also began actively focusing on grassland environmental protection, quietly contributing to the environmental protection of his home grasslands. The Shanjue Tribe charity regularly organizes personnel to collect garbage generated by human activities on the grasslands.
Shanjue Tribe is a 20-minute drive from Xiahe County. Located in a small alley, it's easy to find by following a roadside sign. The sign features a picture of Pleasant Goat, making it easy to spot. You'll need to drive slowly to avoid missing it.
The tribal guide will first lead us into their [Black Tent Nomadic Museum] and tell us the legendary story of local herdsmen protecting the grasslands, as well as all the things they use when grazing. The Black Tent Nomadic Museum was converted from a sheep pen, so its height is limited. For people over 175 cm tall, the entry and exit and the space inside are rather cramped, but there are still commanding heights inside to stand up.
The ceiling inside is made of colorful cloth, which looks very magical under the sunlight. Afterwards, we will go to the classroom to watch a short documentary about the Shanjue tribe.
Here, the tribal staff will provide you with fresh butter tea, fried barley and other snacks. You can enjoy these delicacies while watching the documentary, and feel like you are among the herders.
I was deeply moved by the documentary, which showed volunteers picking up trash on the grasslands and documenting the efforts to protect endangered animals. It reminded me of a time last year when I hiked a mountain near our county town with some friends. Seeing the mountain littered with trash, I bought supplies and cleared over 20 bags the next day. The concept of environmental protection will continue to stay with me.
Then we started learning to make yak brooches. This craft is quite complex, but to simplify things, the tribal teachers only had us make the eyes, nose, and mouth of a goat. Haha, I accidentally made a pig goat.
After making the yak brooches, we went to the grassland outside the classroom to play "Dalcha".
"Darcha" is a sheep-herding operation used by local herders. One person rides one horse. On the grassland, the sheep flock is relatively large, and sometimes some disobedient lambs will run to far away places. At this time, the shepherds need to use "Darcha" to drive the distant sheep back. "Darcha" not only has practical functions on the grassland, but has also gradually evolved into a game on the grassland. It is also a traditional sports activity in Tibetan areas. Stones are thrown with ropes made of cow and wool, which is very skillful. It depends on who can throw the stones farther and more accurately.
After experiencing Shanjue Tribe, we drove back to Labrang Monastery in Xiahe County. Along the way, we saw blue sky, white clouds, grassland and sheep.
The Nine-Colored Gannan is like the Shambhala in a dream, and the Labrang Monastery looks particularly sacred against the backdrop of the blue sky.
Three hundred years ago, a Tibetan practitioner returned home and began building a temple in Xiahe, nestled in the Gannan Valley. He dedicated a summer and an autumn, brick by brick, to the creation of what is now Labrang Monastery. Today, the monastery boasts six colleges and houses thousands of monks, making it the world's largest "Tibetan institution" and one of the six principal monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow Sect) of Tibetan Buddhism.
Labrang Monastery is located in Xiahe County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province. Its full name is "Ganden Xiazhu Darji Zhaxi Yisuqi Julang" in Tibetan, which means "Auspicious Right-turning Temple of Joyful Teaching and Practice".
It is usually called Zhaxiqi Monastery, or more simply Labrang Monastery. The name gradually evolved from the Tibetan word "Labrang", which means the residence of the living Buddha.
The temple faces south and occupies a total area of 866,000 square meters, with a construction area of more than 400,000 square meters. It includes more than 90 main halls, six colleges, 16 Buddhist halls, 18 Angqians (palaces of great living Buddhas), monks' quarters, lecture platforms, Dharma gardens, printing houses, pagodas, etc. These together constitute a huge building complex with Tibetan characteristics, with a total of no less than 10,000 houses.
Once inside the monastery, you'll be accompanied by an Akha to tour the various temples, halls, and academies within Labrang Monastery, allowing you to experience the devout faith of Tibetan believers. What's particularly striking is the stories the Akha tell about reincarnated Living Buddhas.
When strolling in the temple, you may occasionally encounter Akhas debating.
Labrang Monastery boasts over 1,700 prayer wheels, and it takes roughly two hours to complete them all. Every day, devout pilgrims, holding a variety of prayer wheels, walk around each one, step by step, over and over again, traversing the world's longest prayer corridor and feeling the power of faith.
The main scripture hall at the Wensi College is roofed with green glazed tiles and a gilded copper dome. Labrang Monastery is interconnected, with each scripture hall forming an independent courtyard. Pilgrimages are often hurried through, creating a mysterious atmosphere.
That night we stayed in Xiahe County
After breakfast in Xiahe County, we drove to Zhagana, crossing from Gangjia Grassland to Sangke Grassland. Sangke Grassland is located approximately 13 kilometers west of Xiahe County, Gannan Prefecture. Surrounded by mountains, it lies a vast alpine grassland covering 70 square kilometers. Driving along the road to this area, you'll be captivated by every scene outside the window, filled with a sense of bliss.
In autumn, the Sangke Grassland is ablaze with orange, like a natural carpet unfolding before your eyes, a breathtaking sight. The Daxia River meanders across the grassland, like a hada floating on the orange carpet, adding a pleasant and gentle touch to the scenery.
The charm of the Sangke Grassland lies not only in its lush vegetation and elegant scenery, but also in its natural pastoral landscape. Here, the Daxia River flows peacefully from south to north, surrounded by lush yellow grass. Under the blue sky and white clouds, herds of cattle and sheep roam freely, creating a harmonious and natural scene.
Along the way, we went from grassland to mountain peaks, canyons and rocks. The mountains on both sides began to become steeper and the trees began to grow more numerous. On the grassland, the autumn colors of Gannan were reflected in the yellow grass. In the valley, the autumn colors of Gannan were more obvious in this section.
After five hours, we finally arrived at Zhagana, a mountain described as a "fairyland in the clouds." Located in Yiwa Township, Diebu County, Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, at an altitude of approximately 2,900 meters, Zhagana comprises four villages and one temple: Dongwa Village, Yeri Village, Dari Village, Daiba Village, and Lhasang Monastery. Due to its magnificent natural scenery and Tibetan culture, it has been designated one of China's ten least-known mountains and a national geological park.
During the National Day holiday, there was not much traffic jam along the way. When we were about to arrive at Zhagana, there were more and more cars and they drove in slowly. The mountain peaks and cliffs on both sides became apparent. The small Tibetan village surrounded by towering rocks was surrounded by majestic mountains.
Zhagana is a naturally formed stone city. Its name "Zhagana" means "stone box" in Tibetan. It is shaped like a huge palace, as if it was built from natural rock walls.
This place is imbued with a mysterious allure. Tibetan-style wooden houses are stacked one above the other, prayer flags fluttering in the wind. The majestic mountains, azure skies, pristine white clouds, and fresh air create the beauty of Zhagana. But even more captivating are the villagers, their simple kindness, their ever-present smiles, their tanned skin, and their rosy cheeks, radiant from the highland sun, all of which evoke a sense of approachability and warmth.
The majestic mountains of Zhagana, shrouded in mist, resemble a paradise on earth. Within this quaint Tibetan village, people engage in a variety of activities, including animal husbandry, farming, hunting, and firewood gathering, all living in harmony, a model of the harmonious integration of man and nature. Upon arrival at the hotel, you can hike to Fairy Beach. Surrounded by mountains, this meadow, paved with a smooth wooden path, is Fairy Beach. From here, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Zhagana peaks. Enjoy a leisurely hike along the Grand Canyon and stroll through the meadows of Fairy Beach to experience the tranquility and beauty of this sacred village.
After climbing Fairy Beach, continue to Fairy Lake. (The altitude is higher and the distance is longer, so it is not recommended for people with poor physical fitness.)
We will continue our journey in the morning to the misty Zhagana. Accompanied by the light mist, the first rays of dawn shine on the ancient temple. In the evening, the mountain top is dyed into warm colors by the sunset, and the pass is shrouded in clouds and mist. This series of beautiful scenery seems to bring you into a fairyland.
Departing from Zhagana, we journeyed into the depths of the Ruoergai Grassland, where the scenery between heaven and earth was as picturesque as a poem. Here, the emerald green grasslands were dotted with colorful wildflowers, emitting a faint fragrance, while the distant scenery stretched as far as the eye could see.
China's three major wetlands: the Zoige Grassland, the Sanjiang Plain Wetlands, and the Lharu Wetland National Nature Reserve. The Zoige Grassland has long served as a natural pasture for the Tibetan people. In summer, the grasslands resemble a green carpet, with a vibrant array of flowers blooming in vibrant colors. The azure skies and fresh air make it an ideal grassland destination for escaping the summer heat, experiencing Tibetan nomadic life, and connecting with nature.
The beauty of the grasslands permeates the entire journey. Once on the grasslands, visitors can enjoy traditional Tibetan homestay activities, such as tasting traditional Tibetan delicacies like yogurt, hand-pulled lamb, and tsampa, as well as participating in bonfire parties, horseback riding, and other recreational activities. The grasslands here are lush and green, dotted with colorful flowers, dotted with lakes, and crystal-clear streams filled with fish. Known as a "paradise in the clouds," the grasslands are home to numerous lakes and creeks filled with crystal-clear fish.
We will go deep into the heart of Ruoergai grassland, Ruoergai Flower Lake. It started to drizzle on the way there, and the sky was gray. The Flower Lake would not show its beauty without the blue sky and white clouds.
When we bought our tickets and entered, the sky was still gray. A light rain began to fall as we walked along the linear trail, with visible raindrops in the distance. Just as we were about to begin the circular trail, a light peek appeared in the sky. Gradually, the sky seemed to open up, revealing blue sky and white clouds. This is how the beautiful Flower Lake scene below came to be.
Strolling into Huahu Lake, the vast blue sky and rippling water create a fairyland-like, dreamlike scene. Within the lake, flocks of white cranes and ducklings dance gracefully, others soar through the blue sky, creating a dreamlike animal kingdom. Huahu Lake is renowned for its breathtaking natural scenery, including six captivating natural wonders: "Rainbow After Rain," "Fish Playing in Clear Waters," "Dancers in the Snow," "Washing Clouds on the Lake," "Sunset on Huahu," and "Eye of Huahu."
After visiting Huahu Lake, drive to the First Bend of the Nine Bends of the Yellow River, known as the "Majestic Phantom of the Universe." Here, the Yellow and Baihe Rivers converge, forming a plateau wetland nature reserve. This magnificent blend of grasslands, wetlands, lakes, and seas of flowers makes it known as an oasis on the Northwest Plateau.
At the junction of Gansu and Sichuan, the Yellow River flows leisurely. Locally known as "Maqu," it gracefully meanders through the plains, forming the spectacular "First Bend of the Yellow River in the World." This ancient landscape remains quietly integrated into nature. The Yellow River meanders through the high grasslands and, at sunset, bathes the wetlands, creating an enchanting watercolor painting.
Maqu in Gannan, known as the First Bend of the Yellow River, is picturesque. In autumn, the entire grassland is painted a deep yellow, and the blue sky, white clouds, and golden grassland complement each other. This is a natural miracle between heaven and earth, where the river flows and exudes gentle tenderness.
Stay in Tank Town that night.
Wake up in the poetic Tangke and after breakfast, head to the Western Ranch for a Tibetan experience. The name might mistakenly suggest a vast grassland, but it's actually a commercial street that integrates a number of pasture-based cultural activities, as well as hotels, restaurants, shopping streets, and bars. Located on the edge of Ruoergai County, it's known as the "town encased in glass."
Here we made tsampa together, drank butter tea, circumambulated and prayed in front of the White Pagoda, and learned the thangka painting process. Tsampa, a traditional Tibetan food, is usually made from barley flour, which is then stirred and kneaded into a uniform ball. This process is full of fun.
Everyone gathered together, enjoying the pleasure of making their own tsampa and absorbing the unique charm of this culinary tradition. Butter tea, a daily beverage for Tibetans, is typically made by beating butter tea on a cutting board. Its rich, milky aroma and unique flavor make it a perfect after-meal accompaniment. Sharing the process of preparing and savoring these delicacies is not only a delight for the taste buds, but also an exchange of culture and friendship.
When you circumambulate and pray in front of the White Pagoda, you will feel a quiet atmosphere. The White Pagoda is a magnificent Buddhist pagoda, rising from the ground, all white, solemn and majestic.
Here we can turn the prayer wheel around the pagoda, chant sutras in a low voice, pray with sincerity, and seek peace of mind and divine blessings. This moment is a profound spiritual experience and we can feel the power of faith.
We'll also learn about the thangka painting process. This exquisite Tibetan Buddhist painting often depicts the Buddha, religious stories, and sacred scenes. By learning about the thangka painting process, you'll have the opportunity to personally participate in this ancient artistic tradition.
We will paint simple thangkas, learning the techniques required to create these delicate and exquisite works of art. We will experience the joy of artistic creation and gain a deeper understanding of the beauty of Tibetan Buddhist culture. This is a great opportunity to participate in cultural heritage firsthand and will bring you an unforgettable experience.
After the experience, we drove to Langmusi. Langmusi isn't named for a specific temple, but rather for a small town that straddles Sichuan and Gansu provinces and is known as the "Switzerland of the East." Through the town flows a stream called the Bailong River, less than two meters wide, bisecting it.
There is a temple on the north bank and the south bank of this stream, which belong to Luqu County in Gansu Province and Ruoergai County in Sichuan Province respectively. They stand opposite each other across the "river" and together form Langmusi.
In the afternoon, the golden roof of the temple is particularly dazzling, smoke rises from the nomadic huts in the mountains, and mist lingers in the small villages in the valley. Here, Tibetans, Hui people, Han people and other ethnic groups live in harmony and coexist in prosperity, presenting a tranquility and harmony that is almost like the pure land of Brahma.
A stroll through Langmusi Temple offers a delightful opportunity to enjoy a few drinks at a Tibetan-style bar. In the early morning, as the sun rises, the town of Langmusi awakens from the mist, creating a dreamlike scene. With luck, you might even encounter a sika deer within the temple grounds, a delightful encounter that will become an unforgettable memory.
The Bailong River, a stream, separates the Gelug Monastery in Dacanglangmu, Sichuan, and the Saichi Monastery in Gansu. They share the same name, but the Bailong River creates a special place of convergence where their respective faiths merge.
Langmusi is a small plateau water town where many ethnic groups live together. It is also known as the "Little Switzerland of the East". This reputation comes from the English book "Tibetlife" written by a missionary couple. It brought Langmusi to the attention of the world and made it a popular tourist destination.
Nowadays, the number of international tourists visiting Langmusi has gradually decreased, while domestic tourists have become the main source.
Despite this, the town still proudly maintains its many cafes, romantic bars, couples' retreats, and unique Tibetan-Western restaurants. Lisa's, for example, remains a favorite with tourists for its yak burgers and tempting apple pie.
In the afternoon we will go to the Dacanglangmu Monastery in Sichuan, also known as the Sichuan Temple (Gelug Monastery). Gelug Monastery, located in the northwest of Sichuan Province, is one of the important temples of Tibetan Buddhism.
The monastery houses numerous esoteric and exoteric colleges, including the Gyaltsen College, the Wensi College, the Kalachakra College, and the Medical College, and boasts a comprehensive Buddhist academic system. Gelug Monastery holds a prominent position in the history of Tibetan Buddhism and is a well-rounded Buddhist university.
Compared to the magnificent Saichi Monastery on the other bank, Gelug Monastery appears more reserved. However, this does not diminish its extensive influence in Aba and Gannan. Gelug Monastery governs 18 branch monasteries and employs hundreds of monks.
Although there are many temples, only the Langmusi Cultural Center and the Zunsheng Hall are open to tourists. The Zunsheng Hall houses the remains of the Fifth Gelug Living Buddha, a miracle that has remained intact for nearly three hundred years and a precious relic of the temple.
In addition, there are many fascinating halls in the Gelug Monastery, each of which has its own unique legendary story.
Behind the temple, near the entrance to the Namo Grand Canyon, there's a meadow where young lamas often play. From there, you can gaze out over the spectacular scenery of Gansu temples and the Red Stone Cliffs. This is a place where you can experience a religious atmosphere and appreciate the natural beauty.
The little lamas would play on the meadow after class. They were always very enthusiastic about new things. A frisbee could make them happy for an entire afternoon. A knight coming from afar would also attract their attention. After class, the big and small lamas would go to the temple's canteen to buy various carbonated drinks and potato chips. The little lama started eating on the way back to the monastery. He walked forward with big strides, chewing snacks in his mouth and running green and yellow snot in his nose.
Further along the meadow is the Namo Grand Canyon, affectionately called "Naipu Valley" by locals. The name comes from the Tibetan language and means "gathering place of spirits." Naipu Valley is the gathering place of 100,000 dakinis, the holy figure where Guru Padmasambhava subdued evil dragons and ferocious beasts.
According to legend, Guru Padmasambhava subdued a Vajra dragon here, and the third Gelug Living Buddha, Dampa Raojie, then took out the sacred object that it had subdued from here. Going deeper into the canyon, you will see a towering tower that marks the location of the Fairy Cave.
The name "Langmu" comes from a stalactite in the Fairy Cave that resembles a fairy. Legend has it that a tiger once roamed the area, but Guru Rinpoche used his divine power to transform it into a fairy, who then guarded the land, earning it the reverence and faith of the people.
As you continue along the way, you will find many cracks in the rocks along the river, from which springs gush out. This is the source of the Bailong River. There are also some caves along the way, where water flows out from the cracks in the rocks.
Locals often enter these caves and wash their faces with the water in them to pray for blessings, which is also a way to pay respect to the source of the Bailong River. If you wish, you can also follow them into the cave and experience this unique ritual firsthand.
Today is the last day of our trip, and we will go to Gansu Temple (Saichi Temple) in Langmusi. The red and white building, with its golden dome shining against the backdrop of the sun, stands like a palace.
The various halls are built in a staggered pattern, following the mountain's slopes. The towering, golden-domed white pagoda at the temple's entrance catches the eye. The temple's full name is "Dachang Langmusaichi Temple," with "Saichi" meaning golden throne. This name is certainly not fictitious, as the temple's architectural style is identical to that of Ta'er Monastery in Qinghai and Labrang Monastery in Xiahe.
There is a small path in the back mountain that leads to the sky burial platform. Sky burials do not take place every day, so due to time constraints, I did not go there.
Gannan's beauty is truly endless, filled with rich Tibetan customs, which will make you intoxicated. The scenery here is comparable to Tibet. When I flipped through the photos on the way back, the numerous and complex scenes and the saturated colors made me feel that this autumn trip to Gannan was full of colors.
The nine colors of Gannan, I think the nine colors described are red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue, purple, black and white.
Vibrant Red: Tibetan architecture and monk robes seen along the way
Merit Orange: Coral and agate are abundant in Gannan, and orange coral beads symbolize wealth.
Noble Purple: Purple is the Tibetan aristocratic attire, representing nobility and honor; purple Bodhi, carrying wisdom; and purple Fern Hemp (the fruit of life).
Sacred yellow: Yellow Sect monk hats, golden temple roofs, prayer wheels, ghee, etc.
Deep blue: blue sky, lakes Ecological green: grasslands and forests along the way
Solemn Green: Located on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the inky green mountains stretch out here.
Mysterious black: black yak, black tent
Pure white: white clouds, snow-capped mountains, white sheep, white pagoda, white tent
The beauty of Gannan lies in its winding mountains and rivers, its land imbued with humanistic sentiments, its diverse ethnic customs, and its profound Tibetan traditional culture. It also lies in the perseverance and struggle in ordinary life, and the resilience and wisdom in peaceful times.
