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[Indonesia Travel Guide] Brave people, eat volcanic ash first!

Preface

Indonesia—a country with a low profile—isn't exactly a household name. Though also part of Southeast Asia, it's far less well-known in China than, say, Thailand, Singapore, or Vietnam. Many people only think of Bali when they talk about Indonesia. Some even confuse it with India. But I believe Indonesia's beauty goes far beyond its islands.

As scores of compatriots flock to Indonesia to explore its beautiful islands, please remember that this nation of nearly 20,000 islands also boasts countless unique and spectacular volcanic wonders. It boasts over 400 volcanoes, 120 of which are active, representing approximately one-sixth of the world's active volcanoes.

What is this amazing country really like? This time we're going to cross the equator to get a glimpse of it.

Indonesia through the lens

The main equipment used for this "Indonesia 🇮🇩" shoot:

  1. Main body: Sony A7R4

  2. Wide-angle lens: Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8 Di III RXD

  3. Medium-focus lens: Tamron 35-150mm F/2-2.8 Di III VXD (main focus)

  4. Telephoto lens: Sigma 100-400mm/5-6.3mm DG OS HSM | Contemporary

  5. Drone: DJI Mavic 3 Pro (strongly recommended)

  6. Photo taken with a mobile phone: Apple iPhone 15 Pro

  7. Tripod and head: Gitzo 1544T + ARCA 801213

  8. Filter system: ND8 (3 stops of neutral density) + ND1000 (10 stops of neutral density)

Indonesia | About Indonesia

▼Overview

The Republic of Indonesia (Indonesia), commonly known as Indonesia, abbreviated as Indonesia, is located in Southeast Asia and its territory spans Asia and Oceania.

Indonesia, comprising 17,506 islands, is the world's largest archipelago. The larger islands include Kalimantan, Sumatra, Irian, Sulawesi, and Java, earning it the nickname "The Land of a Thousand Islands." With a total population exceeding 270 million, Indonesia is the fourth most populous country in the world and also has the largest Muslim population, with approximately 87% of its population practicing Islam.

Climate

Indonesia has a tropical rainforest climate, with an average annual temperature of 25°C to 27°C. The dry season runs from May to October, and the rainy season runs from November to April. We deliberately chose to visit Indonesia during the dry season to minimize the impact of inclement weather on our photography. The dry season is characterized by high temperatures, low humidity, and intense sunlight. Therefore, loose, breathable clothing is recommended, and sun protection products such as a sun hat and sunscreen are essential.

Time difference

The Indonesian archipelago geographically spans four time zones, from UTC+6 in Aceh to UTC+9 in Papua. However, the Indonesian government only recognizes three time zones within its territory: Western Indonesia Time, which is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (UTC+7); Central Indonesia Time, which is eight hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (UTC+8); and Eastern Indonesia Time, which is nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (UTC+9).

The boundary between the Western and Central Time Zones is a line running north from Java to Bali, through central Kalimantan. The boundary between the Central and Eastern Time Zones runs north from the eastern tip of Timor to the eastern tip of Sulawesi. So, while we were in Java, we were an hour behind China. By the time we arrived in Bali, the time difference had disappeared, and time was synchronized with China.

▼Language

Indonesian is the national and official language of Indonesia and is spoken throughout the country. Most Indonesians also have their own national languages ​​and dialects, with Javanese and Sundanese being the most widely spoken. Due to Indonesia's booming tourism industry, English is often a viable language for communicating with locals. If you're having trouble communicating, download a translation app on your phone.

▼Currency

The Indonesian Rupiah is the official currency of Indonesia. Its currency code is IDR and its symbol is Rp. Mobile payment services in Indonesia are relatively poor, so it's essential to carry cash when traveling there. However, you can easily withdraw cash from ATMs in Indonesia using either UnionPay or Visa credit cards.

Exchange rate in June 2024: 1 US dollar = 16473 Indonesian rupiah, 1 RMB = 2268 Indonesian rupiah (but the actual exchange rate is not that good, 1 RMB can be exchanged for 2100+ Indonesian rupiah, which is already a good exchange rate).

Like the Vietnamese Dong, the Indonesian Rupiah is one of the smallest and largest currencies in circulation worldwide. Banknotes range in denomination from 1,000 to 100,000, and a taxi can easily cost over 100,000. Fortunately, locals are aware of this and customarily remove the last three zeros when negotiating. For example, they'd say "two" for 2,000 IDR and "twenty" for 20,000 IDR, making it much easier to understand. To calculate the price in RMB, simply remove the last three zeros and divide by 2 to get the RMB price.

▼Telephone network

After landing, you can easily get a SIM card at the airport (passport required). I recommend the TELKOMSEL Simpati SIM card, which is said to be the best in the area. 4G in Bromo is excellent, and you can even get a signal from the top of Mount Ijen. However, since I arrived in the early morning, I bought it in advance from Taobao in China to save time, so I could enjoy the internet the moment I landed.

It's important to note that most Indonesian phone plans are tiered by region, so it's best to confirm your intended destination with the staff before purchasing. Regarding signal quality, 4G is generally available in Jakarta, Surabaya, Probolinggo, Yogyakarta, and Bromo. While signal levels on the mountain roads and near the summit typically fluctuate between no signal and 2G, it's a rare opportunity to experience nature, so it's best to put down your phone and enjoy the scenery.

▼ Electricity

The local socket is a European standard two-hole round socket, with a voltage of 240V and a frequency of 50Hz (it is recommended to bring a conversion socket and a three-way plug strip from China to facilitate charging multiple devices at the same time).

Visa|About Visa

▼ Passport

Original passport, valid for more than 6 months.

▼ Tourist Visa

On June 21, 2023, the Indonesian government suspended its visa-free entry policy for 159 countries and regions. Chinese citizens traveling to Indonesia are required to apply for a visa on arrival (VOA) or an electronic visa on arrival (e-VOA). Applicants for an e-VOA can extend their visa online through the e-VOA website. The e-VOA has a dedicated channel and allows for expedited entry. The VOA can be used for a variety of purposes, including socializing, business, and vacationing.

  1. Electronic Visa: The official website for electronic visa applications is https://molina.imigrasi.go.id. If you find yourself struggling with this process, you can also find an online agent. The E-VOA is typically valid for 90 days. If the visa is not used within 90 days, it will be automatically cancelled. The permitted stay period for an electronic visa on arrival is 30 days, calculated from the date of entry, meaning you can stay in Indonesia for 30 days. If you exceed this period, you will need to renew your visa.

  2. Visa on Arrival (VOA): A traditional visa on arrival (VOA) is issued upon arrival at the airport in Indonesia. This fee is US$35 and allows a stay in Indonesia of up to 30 days.

Tips:

I still recommend applying for an e-visa. There's a dedicated lane for electronic visas on arrival, and with your new passport, you can experience seamless entry through the self-service gates. Not only does it save time, but you also avoid dealing with customs agents and unnecessary tipping.


Customs|About Customs

According to Indonesia's latest regulations, starting September 5, 2022, all passengers entering Indonesia must declare their personal belongings online to the Indonesian Customs. This can be done through both the website and the app.

The filling steps are divided into 5 pages in total, in the following order:

After completing the above 5 steps, a personal QR code will pop up. You can screenshot and save it. At the final checkpoint outside the airport, customs officers will scan the code for verification. Remember to open your phone in advance to avoid blocking the road at the airport gate.

Tips: Customs declaration can be filled in in advance before departure to avoid network problems and inability to declare online after landing.

【Yogyakarta】Thousands of years of piety in the jungle

Yogyakarta is not a major tourist destination for most Chinese tourists, and they may not even have heard of the city. But would you be surprised if I told you that this unassuming little city is home to two world heritage sites?

So, no matter what, we had to squeeze in a day in Yogyakarta, specifically to visit Borobudur and Prambanan. As Yogyakarta's two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, with similarly awkward names, similar ages, and black exteriors, many people can't tell which is which.

I summarized it: Borobudur is in the west, Prambanan is in the east; Borobudur is one, Prambanan is a pile; Borobudur is Buddhism, Prambanan is Hinduism.

What makes Indonesians so tolerant of so many religions? I suspect it has something to do with volcanoes. With the recurring eruptions of volcanoes across this land, Indonesians have long adapted to surviving these frequent disasters. Perhaps no one understands the power of nature better than they do. Their reverence for nature is reflected in their reflection and tolerance of religion. Therefore, their religious buildings, whether Buddhist or Hindu, are constructed from volcanic rock and mimic volcanic shapes.

For the historical and cultural information contained in both, you can refer to the brochure provided by the visitor center (there are Chinese versions). Here we mainly talk about the tour related information:

Tips:

There is no daily ticket for Borobudur now.

There are only regular tickets for climbing the tower (445,000 IDR) and outer tickets (which seem to cost more than RMB 100)

The ticket for climbing the tower will come with a pair of soft-soled rattan shoes (you must change into them when climbing the tower, and you will be given a bag to store your shoes), and a tour guide

The tour guide will take you around and talk you through the story. If you want to see the whole thing, you should walk clockwise around each floor, because the Buddhist murals above are carved in the order from the birth of the Buddha to his death.

However, there's one important thing to note: these two scenic spots are closed to the summit on Mondays! The scenic spots are open for business, but you can't climb to the top. Don't ask me why I'm so clear on this, because unfortunately, we happened to be there on a Monday, so we could only admire the view from the outside and couldn't climb to the top. It was a shame. But when it comes to travel, let's leave some regrets so we can see you next time.

The Borobudur sunrise, recommended by CNN as a "once-in-a-lifetime must-see," has long been controversial. The main reasons are: first, foreign tourists pay significantly higher entrance fees than Indonesian tourists, and second, the chances of seeing the sunrise are lower during the rainy season, from November to April. But now, there's no need to worry about whether it's better to watch the sunrise at Borobudur or at Punthuk Setumbu Hills, as Borobudur has stopped selling both sunrise and sunset tickets.

Punthuk Setumbu Hills is located 4 kilometers west of Borobudur Temple. From there, you can overlook Mount Merapi, Borobudur, and the Chicken Church. Although the June sun doesn't rise directly behind Borobudur, the ever-changing light and morning mist are equally beautiful. Once you arrive, you'll need to hike uphill for another 15-20 minutes, including stairs. So, if you're planning to visit, remember to arrive half an hour before sunrise to allow for the climb.

The viewing platform has a row of long tables and high stools. Even if you're not a photography enthusiast, you can still sit quietly on the high stools, drink a beer and enjoy the beautiful scenery. However, because of the long tables, there are not many places to set up a tripod. Also, if you want to take pictures of Borobudur, you need a telephoto lens of 400mm or more because it is very far away.

Although Borobudur is known as one of the four wonders of the ancient East, it is very low-key compared to the famous Great Wall, Taj Mahal and Angkor Wat. Most people may not have heard of it, or even if they have heard of it, they cannot remember where it is or why it is famous.

Its beauty lies not only in the grandeur of the building, but also in the fact that it was carved out of a volcano. Therefore, this world's largest pagoda, built over 1,000 years ago, is still under restoration, with pieces being taken out and put back in place piece by piece.

Nine stories, 99 steps, 72 stupas, and 504 Buddha statues allude to the idea of ​​unity. The stacked towers and over 2,000 exquisite reliefs make Borobudur a vast work of art, a testament to the wisdom and craftsmanship of ancient humanity. Standing at the foot of this monumental work of art, one can only gaze in awe.

Prambanan is a large temple complex with the main attraction at its center - three large temples dedicated to Shiva, the god of destruction, Vishnu, the god of protection, and Brahma, the god of creation. There are also three smaller temples dedicated to Nandi, Garuda and Hamsa, the mounts of these gods.

The entire area is being rebuilt, but the pace is very slow. There's a larger pagoda in the middle, and several smaller ones around it. If all were restored, it would be a spectacular temple, but they can only restore one per year.

At 3:30 p.m., we entered the scenic area and were greeted by Prambanan, which was taller and more magnificent than we had imagined. However, under the scorching sun, the volcanic stone spires seemed almost scorched. Those black spires soaring into the sky bore a striking resemblance to Cambodia's Angkor Wat, though its scale is smaller, which may explain Prambanan's lesser fame.

In Yogyakarta, weather permitting, you can always see the majestic Mount Merapi (2,911 meters above sea level). This imposing, perfectly conical volcano is located approximately 28 kilometers north of Yogyakarta. Mount Merapi is the youngest of South Java's volcanoes, erupting regularly since 1548, with its most recent major eruption occurring on August 6, 2021.

Mount Merapi, with smoke billowing from its summit at least 300 days a year, is one of the world's most iconic volcanoes. However, Merapi also possesses a gentler image: thanks to the abundant volcanic ash, the surrounding soil is thriving with crops and vibrant life. And as dusk falls, people return from their work, their figures transformed into silhouettes against the distant backdrop of Merapi. What a beautiful picture of life this is...

[Malang] A flower blooming on barren land

We took a train from Yogyakarta to Surabaya, and then continued on to Malang. Unlike the special forces students who drove directly from Surabaya for seven or eight hours to Bromo, we chose to split the journey in two to avoid excessive fatigue. Malang was a great resupply point along the way and the perfect starting point for visiting Bromo Volcano and Sewu Waterfall, both of which are not far away.

In comparison, Probolinggo is close to Bromo but far from Sewu Waterfall, and the accommodation conditions in Malang are much better than those in Probolinggo, so it is right to come to Malang.

Malang offered two surprises: the Rainbow Village and the hotel we stayed in. This area was once a slum facing demolition. Local university students, in collaboration with the government, repainted the houses in rainbow colors, turning it into a popular photo spot for tourists and boosting the local economy.

Upon entering Rainbow Village, every villager you encounter will greet you with a simple, sincere smile. The vibrant colors bring joy and momentarily isolate you from the chaos and bustle of the outside world. Although tourists have begun to flock to the village, the people here still lead simple and ordinary lives. The vibrant colors symbolize hope, and I hope everyone can find color in their lives.

I also have to highly recommend Hotel Tugu Malang, which I stayed at in Malang. It felt more like staying in a museum than a hotel.

The owner of the hotel has a strong hobby of collecting, and in order to have a place to display these collections, he built this hotel. The food in this hotel is also very good~

Saiwu Waterfall: Magnificent waterfalls under the volcano

The most iconic scene at Saibu Falls is probably the one below: the circular, multi-line waterfall cluster framed by Mount Semeru in the distance. However, this photo couldn't be taken from the observation deck; it required a drone. Throughout my trip to Indonesia, I captured many of the best photos I could only have taken with the help of a drone.

Many young people climb down to the base of the waterfall, which is a great way to get some great photos. However, the descent is difficult, safety precautions are lacking, and it can get wet, making it difficult to carry a camera. Whether or not to descend depends entirely on your personal preference.

【Bromo Volcano Group】Listen to the Earth's Heartbeat on the Surface of the Moon

Although it is called Mount Bromo, it is actually a volcanic cluster. The six volcanoes together create a fantastic landscape, making it one of Indonesia's most spectacular natural landscapes. It has been called "the most lunar-like place on Earth" by National Geographic.

Watching the sunrise here is a bit like watching the sun rise from the moon. However, many people don't know how many volcanoes there are here, or what they are called. Some even don't know which one is Bromo. From the observation deck, we heard many of our compatriots shouting "Bromo" to the foremost volcano, Bartok. So, I'd like to briefly explain the distribution of these six volcanoes.

We planned a two-day trip to Bromo specifically to capture as many satisfying photos as possible. Not only did we get to see two sunrises, but we also visited different viewpoints. Looking back, this decision was truly a wise one! There are four popular viewpoints in the area, and we chose to visit the first two on two different mornings, the third on one sunset, and the last one for another time. The four viewpoints are as follows:

Penanjakan Bromo (locally known as Penanjakan 1/Pananjakan Mountain Viewing Platform 1), 2782 meters above sea level, Google rating 4.8

King Kong Hill (King Kong Mountain), 2657 meters above sea level, Google rating 4.7

Seruni Point (locally known as Penanjakan2, Pananjakan Mountain Viewing Platform 2), 2434 meters above sea level, Google rating 4.7

Bukit Cinta, Taman Nasional Bromo Tengger Semeru (locally known as Love Hill or Pananjakan3, Love Hill), 2680 meters above sea level, Google rating 4.7

On our first day, we visited the Penanjakan Observation Deck, the highest point. Unfortunately, by 3:00 AM, there were almost no seats left. The sun was blazing, but the anticipated sea of ​​clouds didn't appear. This unique volcanic landscape was a visually stunning sight from the moment we first encountered it; it seemed to be gathering tension, ready to break free from its stillness.

Turning my head, I gazed towards Semolawang Village and beyond. Under a pale pink sky, mist lingered over the lush valleys and plateaus, creating a scene of ethereal beauty and purity. It was truly wondrous: on one side, the barren wasteland wrought by the eruption was awe-inspiring; on the other, the farmlands, forests, and villages nurtured by the volcanic ash were a heartwarming scene of vibrant life.

The next morning, we headed to the King Kong Hill Observation Deck. This one was more challenging to reach than the previous day, requiring a steep climb up a dirt road. However, its location mid-mountain, slightly lower, afforded an unobstructed view of the entire sand sea.

From a photographer's perspective, King Kong Hill is actually more suitable for photographing volcanic clusters. We were lucky that day, with a starry sky, sunrise, and sea of ​​clouds, we captured them all!

To capture the perfect photos in Bromo, you really need to get up early! Although sunrise is around 4 or 5 a.m., the crowds are eager to see it! If you're not out by 2 a.m., you'll likely find no space for your tripod on the mountain. The temperature before sunrise is also incredibly low, only feeling around 5 degrees Celsius. Even in summer, even in the tropics, warm clothing is essential!

The best time to take photos is half an hour before and after sunrise. Once the light gets too harsh, there's really no point in staying on the observation deck. Next, we'll head to the crater to experience Bromo up close. Jeeps chased around the base of the volcano, dropping off large numbers of tourists. The journey felt like a Western blockbuster, like we were chasing a bandit in the desert.

From the parking lot, you'll need to cross a vast sea of ​​sand to reach the slopes of Mount Bromo. The hike to the summit takes about an hour. Every step across the sand creates a cloud of ash, so you need to be careful and avoid incurring as much dust as possible. The fine sand and gravel are difficult to walk on, so if possible, you'll want to ride a pony, though the final steps still require a hike. The sun will shine brightly at dawn, and the temperature will rise considerably. Remember to remove any thick clothing before continuing.

The staircase totaled 253 steps, ascending left and descending right. We rested at each step on a small raised platform. At 9 a.m., we finally reached the crater. Although we had seen numerous photos and videos of the crater before setting off, being close to it was still awe-inspiring. It was a feeling of extreme desolation and loneliness that was hard to describe.

The immense roar was like the pulsation of the planet's heart, a mysterious aura that made me feel not only emanated from outer space but also emanated from the very land we lived in. Human joys, sorrows, anger, and happiness were so insignificant in the face of nature, not worth mentioning.

In the evening, we also encountered a strange ceremony in the village. At dusk, it was even more solemn.

[Beach + Forest] Rest before the second volcano

After leaving Bromo, many people opt to drive directly to Banyuwangi for the seven-hour journey, then make a nighttime foray into Ijen. Obviously, such a commando-style itinerary isn't ideal for those of us who want to balance photography with leisure. So, we added two stops on the way from Bromo to Ijen: Jember Beach and the Enchanted Forest.

The real name of the Magic Forest is De diawatan forest. Because there are many vines wrapped around the tall trees, the name Magic Forest is enough to summarize its main characteristics.

[Ijen Volcano] The day starts at dawn

We had to get up early to see Bromo because we'd miss out on flights if we arrived too late. We also had to get up early to climb Ijen because we wouldn't be able to see the blue flames after daybreak. So, what time did we set off that day? Midnight! The drive from our hotel in Banyuwangi to the Ijen volcano entrance took an hour. But we encountered our first challenge along the way: heavy rain!

The torrential rain pounded against the car windshield and our hearts. A single thought raged through our minds: Is it even worth climbing in this weather? I wonder if I'll be completely blind. By the time we reached Paltuding Camp, it was pitch black outside, but thankfully the rain had stopped. Although the forecast predicted a significant chance of further rain, we decided to head out anyway.

Before departure, the guide gathered everyone and distributed gas masks and trekking poles. At 2 a.m., we began our ascent to the summit. The round trip was about 8 kilometers. Of course, there were VIP services for those with the means: Bromo rode on horseback, while Yizhen rode a Lamborghini (a human-powered rickshaw).

The most challenging part of climbing Yizhen is the first 3km of slow ascent, with a few steep inclines. As long as you pace yourself well, you won't have to breathe heavily. The temperature on the mountain in the early morning was quite low, but because you're constantly moving, you actually feel quite hot. Therefore, Yizhen can take some warming measures according to your needs.

The second section wasn't a continuous climb like the first. Within a quarter of an hour, we began a horizontal traverse, and in just over an hour, we reached the summit. I'd looked up guides online and heard that Yizhen was difficult to climb, but honestly, the climb to the summit was just about average mountain climbing, and for most people, it should be relatively easy. The truly challenging part was the descent from the crater to the Blue Fire: dim, steep, crowded, and filled with a strong odor of sulfur.

Normally, climbers on Yizhen have to choose between the Blue Fire and sunrise. The descent from the summit to the Blue Fire area takes an hour, and the round trip takes two hours, meaning it's impossible to reach the summit before sunrise. However, our three-person vanguard team was incredibly fast, so after taking photos of the Blue Fire, we quickly retreated and arrived at the summit just in time for sunrise. Being able to see both the Blue Fire and the sunrise in one go was the perfect reward for this late-night hike.

The way down the mountain was less exciting than the way up, and it was a bit embarrassing. At this moment, I really envied the wealthy athletes who whizzed past me.

[Bali] Special Forces End! Vacation Begins!

The Yizhen volcano was probably the most intense part of our trip. After descending from Yizhen, everyone breathed a sigh of relief; it was finally over. At this point, I couldn't help but ask myself, why did I go to such lengths to suffer? Hahahahaha

Fortunately, we will go to the resort island of Bali for the last two days of the trip to rest and relax for two days before returning to China. It can be regarded as a reward for our tired bodies.

Conclusion

All good things must come to an end, and every trip is so hard to leave when the last day arrives. I hope this article helps dispel some of the misconceptions about Indonesia. There's so much more to Indonesia than just Bali! While you're still young and brave enough, you should definitely see as much of the world as you can.

Life is truly worth it! We are truly cool 👍 So where will our next stop be?