Hiking Guide for Japan's Shoryudo: This is the way to see the most beautiful scenery!
Preface
Hello everyone! I'm Miyagi, the Japan itinerary manager for China-TravelNote.
Although I lived in Japan for many years, I had never really traveled around the central region until I discovered the Shoryudo Road.
This route, which runs through central Japan and Hokuriku, truly captivated me with its undiluted Japanese spirit. From April 12th to 16th of this year, I thoroughly explored the Nakasendo and gained a ton of experience! Today, I'd like to share the wonders of this route with fellow tourists.
01. First acquaintance with the Shoryudo
In the "heart" of Japan, there is a legendary route with a name that sounds a bit like a middle school student - "Shoryudo" (しょうりゅうどう).
This giant dragon runs from south to north through the nine prefectures of Chubu and Hokuriku, starting from the "dragon head" of the Noto Peninsula in the north and ending at the "dragon tail" of Mie Prefecture in the south. Along the way, it connects the Warring States period of Nagoya, the ancient Edo style of Takayama, the Gassho-style villages of Shirakawa-go, the artistic treasures of Kanazawa, and countless hidden hot springs and secret mountains and rivers.
This route was originally launched by the Japanese government in 2012. Although it had limited popularity in the early days, with the increase in European and American tourists in recent years, this brand has gradually gained international recognition and become an emerging tourist hotspot in Japan.
Here, you'll find a millennium of samurai culture and the spirit of craftsmanship, complemented by the pioneering expression of modern art. You can experience the poetic beauty of three renowned gardens and immerse yourself in the majestic grandeur of the Japanese Alps. More importantly, away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo and Osaka, Shoryudo, a hidden gem, offers travelers the opportunity to engage with the soul of Japan.
Togakushi Shrine
At the end of this year's cherry blossom season, as a tourism product manager in Japan, I went deep into central Japan, rediscovered the Shoryudo, and fell in love with this route.
02. Why do you recommend going to Shoryudo?
Why do I love the Shoryudo Road so much, even though Japan is so vast? Besides being less crowded and beautiful, the price-performance ratio is crucial, and the cost of public transportation along this route is much lower.
As the city with the most developed transportation in central Japan, Nagoya is very suitable as the starting and ending point of the trip. Domestic direct flights to Nagoya have always been a low-price option, often costing around one thousand yuan.
What I love most about Shoryudo, however, is the authentic cultural experience, undiluted by commercialization. It offers neither the exorbitant prices of Tokyo's Ginza nor the daily crowds of 25,000 people at Kyoto's Kiyomizu-dera Temple, allowing me to experience the essence of Japanese culture in a purer way.
Tsumagojuku
In the Gassho-style village of Shirakawa-go, you can observe the wisdom of nail-free and mortise-and-tenon joint architecture up close without paying for admission.
At the Miyagawa Morning Market in Takayama, you can enjoy a freshly cut A5 Hida beef set meal at one-tenth the price in Tokyo, which only costs around 1,200 yen, or about 60 yuan.
In Kanazawa, you can even try your hand at combining gold foil, which is nearly one ten-thousandth of a millimeter thick, with Japanese lacquerware and experience the craftsmanship of artisans.
Shoryudo, facing the Sea of Japan and backed by the Alps, has just the right temperature all year round. Even in the scorching summer heat, you can still find a bit of coolness here. It is a rare summer resort in Honshu, Japan.
As Lonely Planet commented: "This place preserves the undiluted Japanese soul and is the best annotation for travelers to poetic dwelling."
03. Explore Thang Long Road with China-TravelNote!
Explore the historic sites and culture of central Japan in Kanazawa, Takayama, Nakasendo, and Shirakawa-go, gaze at the Northern Alps from Kamikochi, and enjoy a summer symphony at Hida Takayama Onsen.
Come to Nagano, the last secret place in Hokuriku, go deep into Togakushi to feel the power of nature, and stroll along the Edo-era Nakayama Ancient Road. Every step seems to be traveling through the shackles of time and space.
Nagano: A spiritual haven on the roof of Japan
Lonely Planet describes Hokuriku as "a land brimming with culture, history, and natural beauty." Nagano embodies the natural beauty of Nagano, like an ancient book sealed in snow, hidden within the folds of the Japanese Alps. A cradle of mountain worship, witnessing Japan's Warring States period, it remains the ultimate sanctuary for modern escapists.
Northern Alps
Although I arrived in late spring, the snow on Mount Togakushi had not yet melted, and the snow walls on both sides of the approach still showed the afterglow of the spectacular snow scenery of winter.
Walking along the approach to Togakushi Shrine is like entering a "living natural museum" woven from 400-year-old Japanese cedar trees, and witnessing one of the most visually striking scenes in Japanese mountain worship.
Even if you arrive outside the peak of winter snow, you can still imagine that when the snow covers the branches, these giant cedars up to 30 meters high will stretch out for 2 kilometers like a formation of warriors. The approach to the shrine will turn into a silver-armored corridor, and the snow particles and the breathing of the ancient cedars will interweave into poetry.
In summer, giant redwoods line the approach to the shrine, gazing at the pilgrims. When the wind blows through, they murmur anciently, like chanting scriptures.
“A true secret place allows humans to learn to communicate with nature with humility.”
Okusha interprets the ultimate form of Japan's mountain worship with the growth rings of giant sequoias, the edges of snow grains, and the lingering sound of Kagura music. This place is not only a "roof" in a geographical sense, but also the energy intersection of civilization and wilderness.
Kanazawa: Symbiotic Poetics of Edo Remnants and Contemporary Art
Praised by Lonely Planet as the "Cultural Heart of Hokuriku, Japan" and recommended by National Geographic as one of the "25 Best Places to Travel in the World in 2025", Kanazawa is like a Ukiyo-e scroll, encapsulating the Warring States ambitions of Kaga Hyakumangoku and reflecting the avant-garde edges of the 21st Century Museum of Art.
This "Little Kyoto" surrounded by the Japanese Alps has become a hidden temple for in-depth travelers with its original sense that has not been diluted by commercialism and the density of experience folded by time and space.
Kanazawa's Edo charm lies in the mutual tolerance of samurai spirit and Zen. Whether it is the quiet teahouse street, the grand and profound Kenrokuen Garden, or the seafood craze of Omicho Market, they form a unique Ukiyo-e scene in Kanazawa.
Kenrokuen, the first of the three most famous gardens in Japan, is based on the six aesthetic principles of "grandness, seclusion, human effort, antiquity, water springs, and panoramic views", transforming the ambitions of the Edo daimyo into the Zen spirit of every pond and tree.
Strolling through Kenrokuen Garden in late spring, the scattered pink cherry trees light up the vibrant soul of the entire garden. Walking through the garden, it feels as if the shakuhachi is playing in your ears.
On the banks of the Asano River, in the 200-year-old red-shell lattice buildings on Higashi Chaya Street, it seems as if time has never flown here. Occasionally, the sound of shamisen and taiko drums can be heard, traveling through from the Edo period, and in an instant, even the air becomes expensive.
At the Foil-Gold Foil Workshop on the street corner, ice cream is wrapped in 0.0001mm gold foil. Tourists can personally experience the centuries-old handmade gold foil crafts.
Omicho Market retains a rare non-tourist atmosphere in Japan: 80% of customers are still local housewives, and stall owners retain the old business philosophy of "try before you buy".
The secret taste code of Kanazawa is hidden in the black throat fish dishes - this deep-sea fish has a fat content of up to 25%. Kanazawa people use the "sashimi - charcoal grill - tea rice" three-way eating method to let the fish fat transform into the triple flavor of nuts, caramel and kelp at different temperatures, which is in line with the time and space philosophy of "once in a lifetime" in the tea ceremony.
Mountains: A Geographical and Historical Wonder
This "Little Kyoto of Hida" surrounded by the Japanese Alps captures the breath of time with the most complete Edo castle town in Japan.
I arrived at Miyagawa Morning Market, one of the three largest morning markets in Japan, early in the morning. I saw stall owners displaying Hida beef sushi, wild mountain fruits, and handmade pickles. The atmosphere was filled with greetings in local dialects.
The white tourists couldn't wait to find a small tavern on the side of the road and started drinking while standing, with Takayama sake in one hand and Hida beef skewers in the other. In this way, they found the most authentic way to enjoy the mountains.
Takayama Brewery
Not far away is the Sanmachi Ancient Street, the heart of Takayama, where 400-year-old dark brown lattice-window buildings stretch along the Miya River.
I started from Miyagawa Morning Market and strolled along Kami-San-no-Machi in the Edo style of the mountains. The weather in late spring was sunny and rainy, and the sky was repeatedly washed by the weather. Even though there were many tourists, it did not feel crowded at all. Accompanied by the fragrance of Hida beef and sake, my steps became lighter.
The local sake breweries hidden in Takayama Castle Town are known as the "untamed spirits of oriental sake." You can buy a skewer of charcoal-grilled Hida beef at the Miyagawa morning market and pair it with a glass of Junmai Daiginjo. The caramelized fat and the fruity aroma of the wine create a perfect golden balance in your mouth.
When I came to Takayama in mid-April, I happened to encounter the annual Takayama Festival and Spring Festival, which is known as one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan. Although the float parade was cancelled due to sudden heavy rain, if you walk along the Sanmachi Ancient Street and follow the sounds of drums and shouts, you may see the parade team at the next corner.
Young boys and girls danced in the rain, and the sounds of flutes and drums intertwined in the air, just like an Edo Ukiyo-e painting.
As the northern gateway to the Japan Alps, Takayama is a hub for accessing natural wonders, from Shirakawa-go in the north to Kamikochi in the east.
Kamikochi: A Soulful Secret in the Japanese Alps
Kamikochi is located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, Japan. Its legend began in 1927 when the literary giant Ryunosuke Akutagawa vividly described this secret place in his famous novel "The Kappa", making it famous.
This 15-kilometer valley, a National Geographic-recognized hiking secret, embodies the concept of a "divinely blessed back garden." Open from April to November, the glazed waters beneath Kappa Bridge and the withered trees shrouded in morning mist create a surreal natural installation.
Kamikochi-Kappa Bridge
Since I didn't wear hiking shoes, I chose to walk along the trail from Taisho Pond to Kappa Bridge.
I stepped onto the dew-soaked wooden plank path and onto the shores of Taisho Pond. Formed by a volcanic eruption, this lake resembled a celestial blue paint splashed by the gods, its surface reflecting the snow-capped peaks of the Hotaka mountain range. Walking along the right bank of the Azusa River, the crisp sound of the stream gradually replaced the hustle and bustle of the city.
As the iconic wooden suspension bridge comes into view, the air is already filled with the sweet aroma of apple pie. Kappa Bridge is truly the soul of Kamikochi. Standing in the center of the 36-meter-long bridge, you can see the wispy sulfurous clouds of Mount Yake to your left, and the knife-like rock face of Mount Hotaka to your right.
The Azusa River beneath our feet cuts the reflection of the Alps into flowing emerald. Perhaps the legend of the kappa described by Ryunosuke Akutagawa is hidden in the gaps between the breathing of these plants and trees.
“True wilderness never tames humans; it only teaches us how to share the same breath with all things.” There are no tourists here, only nature pilgrims temporarily staying at the border of the divine realm.
Shirakawa-go: A fairytale village in the valley
Shirakawa-go, a secluded village carved by a snowstorm, is Japan's only living settlement with traditional houses designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its 113 "Gasho-zukuri" (Gassho-style) wooden houses resemble clasped hands, earning them the name "Gasho Village."
Enter the village by crossing the Sofeng Bridge suspension bridge and strolling 1.5 kilometers along the banks of the Shogawa River. You'll find the Myozenji Goshikan, a five-story, Gassho-style Buddhist temple still in use. The remains of a silkworm room in the attic testify to the prosperity of sericulture during the Edo period. Those with more energy can hike to Hatogaya Gorge, the source of Shirakawa-go's water supply, to search for traces of icefalls and black bear hibernation caves.
From the Ogimachi Castle Ruins Observation Deck, the village resembles a giant's hands clasped in prayer. The annual lighting ceremony in January and February is a highlight of Shirakawa-go. The snow-covered thatched roofs shimmer like amber under the warm yellow light, a real-life version of "Frozen."
Every visitor to Shirakawa-go seems to be able to hear the silkworm breeding songs and whispers of the mountain gods from the Edo period.
Nakasendo: A Time Traveler's Journey of Searching for the Heart
The Nakasendo, the "inland road" built by Tokugawa Ieyasu to control Japan's vital forces, served as the political artery connecting Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period. The 530-kilometer route winds through the heart of the Japanese Alps, with 69 post stations scattered like pearls among the mountains.
Today, Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku on the Kiso section have preserved the Edo period's covenant of "no sale, no lease, no destruction" by enshrining the stone roads, lattice-windowed wooden houses, and the sound of iron hooves as epics.
The wooden houses with lattice windows on both sides of the cobblestone streets of Tsumago-juku, the still-operating Wakihonjin Museum, and even the curvature of the icicles hanging from the eaves are all the same as they were during the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1603.
In order to immerse myself in the Zhongshan Ancient Trail, I once walked along the 8.5-kilometer Zhongshan Trail towards Magomejuku. The rotten wood and morning mist intertwined in the deep mountain forests to form a magical world of reality and illusion. There were few passers-by along the way, and the jingling sound of the bear bells on the bag was the only "safety alarm" that broke the silence.
Unlike Tsumago-juku's secluded atmosphere, Magome-juku, built on a steep slope, is more like a "mountain commercial complex" from the Edo period.
Magomejuku
The "Masugata" sharp turn street, which was built to defend against foreign enemies, is lined with 18 rebuilt hotels and shops. Find a soba restaurant you like, and you may taste the taste of Edo that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years.
But the most beautiful of all is Naraijuku, the 34th post station. Its unbroken Edo-style streets, stretching over a kilometer, are known as the "Nara Thousand Pavilions." Even the newly built houses retain the traditional lattice windows and deep eaves of the Thousand Bones. At night, when the streetlights come on, the entire street transforms into a floating lacquerware museum.
NARAIJUKU
The streets are lined with soba shops and Showa-style coffee shops. My favorite is Matsuya Tea House. When you push open the door, you will see the Showa-style interior decoration. Amid the gurgling sound of the siphon pot making coffee, I flip through the owner's collection of street scene albums from the 1970s. The snow scenes in the old photos overlap with the current scene outside the window.
Sitting in an old shop from the Showa period, and looking out the window at the street scene from the Edo period, is a wonderful experience.
Conclusion
Coming to Shenglongdao is not just an ordinary journey, but also a pilgrimage through time, space and mountains. It is an epic of natural wonders and thousands of years of humanities.
Natural wonders are the bones of the Shoryudo, and the snow-capped peaks of the Northern Alps are suspended in the night like a fantasy.
Taste and craftsmanship are interwoven into a cultural vein. The marbled fat of Hida beef awakens the soul of the mountains when grilled over charcoal with honeysuckle leaves.
Cultural treasures continue to thrive here. The Edo period left many marks here. Gold leaf craftsmen hammered gold leaf into thin sheets of one ten-thousandth of a millimeter, and Hida craftsmen used wood bending techniques to turn the annual rings of cypress wood into a code to decipher the movement of the earth's crust.
Kamisan Town
For seasoned travelers, the Shoryudo Trail offers more than just stunning scenery; it's a cultural awakening that awakens all five senses. Just as the 700 stone steps of Eihei-ji Temple suggest—only by diving deep can one reach the true essence of Japan.
