[Takaoka Castle Town (②Restoration by merchants and townspeople)] (Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture, former province name: Etchu)

As the secondary capital of the Maeda clan of Kaga (present-day southern Ishikawa Prefecture), Takaoka in Ecchu Province (present-day Toyama Prefecture) played a major role in the history of the Hokuriku region. Even after Takaoka Castle was abolished by the shogunate's "One Castle per Province" order, the Kaga Domain preserved the remains of the castle grounds and provided ardent protection for the city, which was developed into a castle town, as it controlled water transportation on the Oyabe River and was a key point protecting the east of the domain's headquarters, Kanazawa. After Takaoka Castle was abandoned, the city temporarily declined, but the feudal lord Maeda Toshitsune (1594-1658) sent retainers to the castle site to manage the rice storehouses and prohibited the townspeople from moving out of Takaoka, in an effort to maintain the population and economic size. Furthermore, Zuiryuji Temple was built to commemorate Toshinaga (1562-1614), the foster father (and Toshitsune's real brother) who had built Takaoka Castle, and the city gradually regained momentum through policies led by the Kaga domain. The city made a remarkable transition from a castle town to a town for townspeople, and began a new journey as the secondary capital of the Kaga domain.

Today, when you visit Takaoka City, the second largest city in Toyama Prefecture, you will find the old town area lined with traditional buildings along the Senbo River to the west of Takaoka Castle. One of these is Yamacho-suji, a street along the Hokuriku road that was remodeled by Toshinaga to pass through the castle town, and it has developed as a merchant town since the establishment of Takaoka. Although much of the Edo period streetscape was lost in a great fire in the Meiji period, a stately streetscape remains, reconstructed with modern techniques while retaining the appearance of the past. A representative highlight is the Sugano family residence (photos 2-4). The Sugano family was a merchant family that made their fortune managing the distribution of goods by Kitamae ships, and even in modern times they made a great contribution to the development of the town, such as founding the Takaoka Bank. The mansion, built after learning from the great fire, is a fire-resistant storehouse-style house, and the bluish-gray exterior walls exude a unique style. Compared to the stately exterior, the interior of the mansion gives a simple impression, but there are ingenious designs scattered throughout, giving a glimpse of the family's wealth. You will be especially surprised by the Buddhist altar that suddenly appears when you open the sliding doors to the Buddhist altar room. The entire structure is painted in a lustrous gold color, casting a dull glow in the darkness beyond the sliding doors. It is said to represent Honganji Temple, the head temple of the Jodo Shinshu sect of Buddhism, which had an enormous influence on the hearts of people in the Hokuriku region, including the Sugano family, and its intricate construction, which is just like the real thing, can be seen as the quintessence of the advanced craftsmanship that has been passed down in Takaoka and its surrounding areas.

You can also experience the town culture that was driven by the wealth of the townspeople at the Takaoka Mikurumayama Kaikan (photos 1, 6-10), which is also located on Yamamachi-suji. Takaoka Mikurumayama is a float that appears at the spring festival of Takaoka Kumano Shrine, held every year on May 1st. Due to its huge size, elaborate decorations, and ancient history, it has been designated as both an Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property and an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan, and is also registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Mikurumayama is said to have originated when Maeda Toshiie (1538-1599), the founder of the Kaga domain, received a royal carriage from his ally Toyotomi Hideyoshi, which Toshiie's son Toshinaga gave to the townspeople of Takaoka. For this reason, large wheels are installed on the base, while a spear that seems to reach the sky is raised high and decorated with gorgeous decorations. At the Mikurumayama Hall, the history and significance of the festival are explained, and the actual Mikurumayama is on display. The impressive scale of the float, which penetrates the first and second floors of the building, is extraordinary, and you can see its impressive scale of over 8 meters in height. However, if you look closely, you will see that the decorations are meticulously done with no shortcuts, and it would not be surprising if you considered it a work of art. Inside the museum, you can also get a vivid view of the festival, imagining the excitement of the town on that day. At the same time, seeing the majestic Mikurumayama float thrust out with force, you can also think about the high spirits of the people of Takaoka who made a magnificent comeback after the misfortune of the castle being abandoned.

Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!)

Visited: 3rd Sunday in April around 1pm

Access: 12 minutes walk from Takaoka Station (to Takaoka Mikurumayama Kaikan)

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Oct 2, 2024