Live Your Best Lives
Itinerary: Guangzhou - Chengdu - Panda Breeding Research Base - Chengdu - Yingxiu 5.12 Earthquake Site - Ganbao Tibetan Village - Zhuokeji Tusi Guanzhai - Jinchuan Guanyin Bridge - Seda - Dongga Temple - Ganzi County - Gesar Royal City - 317 Internet Celebrity Old Man - Xinluhai - Dege County - Dege Printing Institute - Tibet Jiangda - Changdu - Qiangbalin Temple - Zishu Temple - Dingqing - Bujiaxue Mountain - Baqing - Zandan Monastery - Sapu Sacred Mountain - Ruo County - Ruo Skull Wall - Naqu City - Shengxiang Tianmen - Dangxiong - Lhasa Roaming - - Drepung Monastery - Potala Palace Night View - Xining - Guangzhou
TheSichuan-Tibet North Line, that is, National Highway 317, is a cultural landscape avenue and another route from Sichuan to Tibet after National Highway 318. Because National Highway 318 is so famous, National Highway 317 is completely covered up under glory, and it is almost impossible to hear or see travel photography about this route. When I was walking in western Sichuan in 2016, because the master took the wrong path, I took a detour of 317 and walked more than 100 kilometers, and happened to meet an activity of local Tibetans in Rangtang, and felt a little bit of Tibetan culture on this route. Until 2020, because of the exposure of Internet celebrity attractions such as Zishu Temple, Shaman Sacred Mountain and Shengxiang Tianmen on this route, the idea of taking the 317 Sichuan-Tibet North Line was firmly rooted in my heart and lingered. Hurry up and go, take advantage of this urge, while your physical condition is okay, hurry up. I am worried that as I grow older, I will not dare to walk such a difficult plateau route in the future. This is my second visit to Tibet this year, and my fifth time in Tibet. Tibet has always been a magic for me!
The original plan was to charter a car, but there were not enough people to join the group. My colleague recommended a route online, although it was not ideal, but I finally traveled! Three people in a car, plus a driver, exactly four people, the best match!
The morning flight sent us from Guangzhou to Chengdu, with a forecast ground temperature of 22 degrees and light rain.
I remember the last time I went to Chengdu in June 2016 to take pictures of Sichuan West, what a pleasant trip! Everything is vividly in my mind. The time is just right, the scenery is just right, and the people are just right. Now that I have come to Chengdu again, I can no longer find that happy mood.
Today in Chengdu was cloudy, and the master who picked us up told us that the weather in Chengdu is basically the same, and the sun rarely comes out. Arrange Bijia Hotel Apartment (Chunxi Road Store) located at No. 53-57 Taisheng South Road, Jinjiang District, and the conditions are not bad.
With only half a day in Chengdu, we chose to go to the panda breeding research base. Although I have been to Chengdu many times, it is the first time I have walked into the panda base. The environment here is very good, green bamboo is a forest, and the cute giant pandas live here is really a blessing. Some pandas happily ate bamboo meals by themselves, some climbed trees, and their fat figures did not seem to have any effect on their climbing trees, and some fell asleep. No matter what movements it makes or what sound it makes, its naïve appearance can be loved by people, no wonder it is a national treasure.
At this time, the news of a positive new crown nucleic acid test from Guangzhou broke our mood of continued appreciation. We know what the journey will bring. Immediately took a taxi back to the city and went to the Third People's Hospital of Chengdu for a nucleic acid test before get off work to deal with possible accidents that may occur later. At this time, it was reported that Xinjiang imposed a 14-day quarantine on citizens from Guangzhou, and all tourists who traveled to Xinjiang on the same day were persuaded to return.
Our trip began at such a special moment.
Eating local food is an essential part of your trip. That night, I found a restaurant in a nearby alley - Huifu Courtyard, and a few special dishes were really good: special glutinous rice duck: the upper layer is crispy duck skin, the bottom layer is fragrant pot rice, and the soft glutinous rice is mixed with a few peppercorns in the middle; Braised meat and taro pot: The aroma of meat and taro penetrates perfectly with each other; Handmade tomato gluten, tomato and cucumber soup is fresh enough, and the noodles are chewy enough. Eat to your heart's content, get a good night's sleep, and hit the road tomorrow.
Cloudy to sunny
DirectorJiang Wei picked us up at the hotel before half past 8, and the car was Nissan Chery 2.5T. The travel agency changed from Prado, which originally attracted tourists, to Pajero, why did it change to Chery? Fortunately, the driver is a very likable handsome guy, the car is relatively spacious, and more importantly, it satisfies our three senior beauties. A car for four people is the best match.
This weekend, there is a serious traffic jam on the highway, and it is said that most of the people in the city go to Wenchuan to pick cherries, which is the cherry season.
【Yingxiu 512 Earthquake Site】
The Wenchuan Yingxiu 512 earthquake site is a temporary addition point. I just want to see the ruins left by the Wenchuan earthquake on May 12, 2008, which was the most destructive, widespread and disaster-saving since the founding of the People's Republic of China, and it is located in Yingxiuyuan Whirlpool Middle School.
Walking into the site park, let my breathing stop instantly, the big clock that froze in time forever recorded the moment when the earthquake occurred, most of the buildings on campus had collapsed, The collapsed school building surrounds the only tower with a national flag flying on it.
The completely destroyed school buildings were unbearable, crooked, some completely collapsed, some partially collapsed, and some cracks covered the walls. What a tragedy it was at that time! The earthquake not only brought a broken ring to the house, but also took many precious lives. The green mountains are shrouded in clouds and mist, and there is silence for the dead compatriots. The dead are gone, and the living should continue to move forward!
Visit the site, remember your compatriots, and recall the bits and pieces you saw after the Wenchuan earthquake 13 years ago.The blue clock in the distance in the background is the prototype of the clock that freezes time.
Lunch was settled in Xue Town, and it was only a third of the way through.
【Ganbao Tibetan Village - An Ancient Village with a History of More than 2,000 Years】
Today's itinerary has three villages: Taoping Qiang Village, Ganbao Tibetan Village, and Zhuokeji Tusi Official Village, each with its own characteristics, covering the three major Tibetan architectural characteristics of Tibet. Because of the time constraints, we chose the last two.
Ganbao Tibetan Village, located in Li County, Aba Prefecture, is a Tibetan village with a history of more than 2,000 years, located in the mountains, built by the cliff and water, because of the 512 earthquake, what we see is reconstruction after the earthquake, basically restored to its original appearance.
When I came to the gate of the village, I was immediately attracted by the unique architectural style of the ancient village. The mountain gate made of mountain rocks is a scene in itself, solemn and magnificent, facing the green mountains. Through the mountain gate, the layers of typical Tibetan dwellings are connected and connected to each other, like a huge stone castle. It is known as "the first village in the Jiarong Tibetan area". "Ganbao" means "village on the hillside" in Tibetan, and local residents use local materials to build this thousand-year-old village with stones.
Climbing up the stone steps, I saw a statue of a Jiarong Tibetan couple and a puppy, waiting in front of the prayer wheel. First, gently turn the semicircular prayer wheel to pray for our journey; A sculpture of "two cows lifting the bar" describes the characteristics of local plowing with yaks. On the stone wall in front of the head, a huge gold leaf portrait praising King Gesar shines in the sun; Looking at the prayer flags flying on the top of the mountain, a watchtower protrudes above the mountain houses.
There are few tourists in Ganbao Tibetan Village, and there are no tickets, so it is worth savoring slowly.
[Zhuokeji Tusi Guanzhai - The Red Army once passed here]
This is my second time here. The last time was in October 2015, when I came here to participate in the autumn photo of Daocheng Aden, but because I arrived too late, it was just an appearance, and I couldn't go in to visit.
The weather is particularly good today, the sun has not yet set at 5 o'clock, there are few tourists, we can slowly take a closer look at this official village
This is a very majestic and extraordinary building, standing on a hill with an all-wooden structure and unique ingenuity. It was built in 1718 during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. This village is too famous, because in addition to its intact preservation, it is also the story prototype of the famous Jiarong writer Alai's work "The Dust Settles" won the Mao Dun Literature Award and the location of the TV series. More importantly, the Long March of the Red Army passed by here, and an important Zhuo Keji Conference was held here, where Mao Zedong, Zhou Enlai, and Zhang Wentian all lived, and red stories happened here.
In June 1935, during the Long March of the Central Red Army, he crossed Mengbi Mountain and entered the Zhuokeji area, but was blocked by the local soldiers and was forced to fight a battle with the soldiers. won the victory and occupied the Tusi official village. In the end, the chieftain agreed to the Red Army to repair it here and vacate the house.On July 3, Mao Zedong, Zhou Enlai, Zhang Wentian and other central leaders and central organs entered the official village and stayed for a week. In 1988, Zhuokeji Official Village was listed as the third batch of national key cultural relics protection units by the State Council. In the official village, there are still the Red Army conference room and the room where Zhou Enlai lived.
Climb a stone staircase and come to the gate of the official village, which is a distinctive gate, and a screen with a tiger painted on it is located behind the gate. Here's a legend. It is said that when the construction of the first Zhuokeji Tusi official village was about to be completed, it came down from the mountain and kept a tiger, and it lay and sat by the gate of the official village for a day and a night, and finally left quietly. Tigers are very rare in the local area. Therefore, in addition to the meaning of the top and supreme meaning, the place name Zhuokeji also has the saying of "hidden dragon and crouching tiger".
A tall Tibetan flagpole in front of the door, topped with a sun and moon air support, and a long mana prayer flag on the flagpole flutters majestically in the wind to resist the invasion of all evil energy.
The Zhuokeji Tusi official village is large in scale and finely structured, almost encompassing the characteristics of Jiarong Tibetan architectural art. It is not only the residence of the chieftain and his family, but also the yamen of the chieftain. Wood, stone, and clay are the three major elements of traditional Tibetan architecture, and the main body of the official village is composed of four groups of tall stone and wood buildings, without using a single iron nail. Through typical architectural features such as stone walls, corridors, and flower windows, the exquisite architectural art of the Tibetan and Han ethnic groups is integrated, and it is a model of the high integration of Tibetan and Han ethnic architectural art.
This is an imitation Han-style courtyard structure, the northern main house is a false six-storey, the east and west wings are five floors, and the middle is a patio, with a total of 63 large and small rooms. Standing on the dam of the patio and looking up at every floor, it gives birth to a majestic and eerie feeling! The first floor is mainly Jiarong culture, the second floor is mainly red culture, the third floor displays Tusi culture, and the fourth floor displays religious culture.
It is not easy to go up to the Tibetan building, you have to hold on to the round wooden handrail to go up, the stairs are narrow and steep, you have to be very careful. I browsed slowly from room to room, walking through at least 40 rooms. Toast is toast, there are a lot of treasures in the family, both Jiarong Tibetan style treasures, and Han classics.
This is really a treasure land, and I have seen colorful auspicious clouds in the sky many times inside and outside the official village.
On the same day, I stayed at the Guanyinqiao Miaoxin Lotus House, a small hotel located by the Somo River, with a triple room. Because Seda is closed and not open to the public, the once bustling and lively Guanyinqiao Town has now become deserted, only the newly opened saffron-themed inn, there is still a little smell. At night, I fell asleep with the roaring river water.
Light rain turned cloudy
In the morning, when I opened the window, a big river was wide and the mountain was shrouded in clouds and mist, and the most famous Guanyin Temple in the local area was on the top of the mountain. There is a large prayer wheel on the mountain opposite the river, and the bank is a Tibetan house.
Set off again. Walking along the green mountains and green waters of 317 along the Chengna line is really a great pleasure, last night's rain made the green mountains on both sides more lush, and the Zhuosjia River was running and jumping happily on the side. White clouds appear from time to time in the mountains in the distance, and Tibetan-style houses on the side of the mountain continue to flash. Occasionally, you can see the road painted in different colors, that is, Rainbow Road.
We stopped in front of the beautiful No. 1 Bridge in Shangzhai Town, which is a Tibetan-style bridge, from the bridge body to the piers are full of Tibetan atmosphere, which is very beautiful. I love it so much. I happened to meet two Tibetans walking across the bridge, giving me a chance to take a snapshot. Outside the bridge is the colorful rainbow road, sitting in the middle of the road and recording this beautiful moment.
So far, the road conditions of National Highway 317 are not bad, and only a few places have encountered landslides and road repairs.
The fork in the road between Rangtang County and Luhuo County is a scene, the huge Rangtang County propaganda wall on the whole wall of the mountain, particularly eye-catching, colorful roads and colorful high-speed guardrails, It all attracts you to stop.
Moving forward, a splendid temple came into view in the distance, especially the long prayer corridor on the ground floor, which is estimated to be 200 meters long. This is the Golden Goose Temple in Wengda Town, with an observation deck. There are also temples on the Golden Goose Temple. The temples on National Highway 317 are one after another, all of which are magnificent, and the people in Tibetan areas really invest all their money in the temples.
Not far ahead, we saw a pile of prayer flags and a white pagoda, which is not uncommon in Tibetan areas, but a group of Tibetan macaques attracted us and stopped immediately. It turned out that this is a protected viewing area for Tibetan macaques. Dozens of Tibetan macaques jumped and chased there excitedly, and several female monkeys jumped from here to there with their little monkeys, and the little monkeys hugged their mothers tightly and drilled around their mothers. It's funny! Some of the big monkeys ran towards us and shouted at us as if we had encroached on their territory. This group of Tibetan macaques is so interesting.
The next stop is Seda, which is arranged in the itinerary and is also a place that the two companions especially want to visit. Xiaowei inquired in many ways and heard that he could spend money to bring people in, but will he be found and repatriated after entering? It is not guaranteed.
Pass by Seda County, a small modern town that has emerged due to tourism driven by Wuming Buddhist Institute. Because Wuming Buddhist Academy is closed and closed to the public, this once lively small city is now deserted.
Passing by an artificial attraction, quite spectacular, but not stopped
Seeing that the two companions were so obsessed with the Seda Wuming Buddhist Academy, Xiaowei took us to the Luoruo Observation Deck, overlooking Sedara Rong Wuming Buddhist College. From a distance, you can see the white pagoda in front of the gate in the mountain hollow, and the red house on the hillside in the distance, but you can't enter. We understand very well these measures taken during the pandemic, for everyone's safety, for the safety of these practitioners.
[Dongga Temple - a splendid temple built on the mountain]
Since I knew in advance that the Wuming Buddhist Academy was closed, the alternative was to go to Dongga Temple. Dongga Temple is about 10 kilometers away from Seda County and arrives quickly. This is another resplendent temple built on the mountain. The temple faces an open grassland and mountains, and the view is very good. A rectangular prayer wheel wall on the ground decorates the grassland, and all kinds of wildflowers bloom on the grass in summer, what a beautiful picture it should be.
From a distance, the temple is quite large. This temple, built in 1686, is remote, so not many people come to the temple to offer incense. In addition, the Seda Monastery is holding a puja these days, and it is said that they all went to Seda, and they saw a lama in the temple. When I walked to the gate of the temple, I saw that the temple was unusually quiet, and only one place where the rain leaked made the sound of ticking water. After asking the lama for permission, I quietly walked in. An abnormal sense of tranquility and detachment suddenly appeared in my heart, and the distracting thoughts in my heart were swept away, and I couldn't help but put my hands together in front of my chest.
The architectural decoration in the main hall is the most beautiful and brilliant of all the temples I have been to, and the gorgeous and exquisite beauty has never been seen in other temples. I surrounded the hall from low to high by myself, admiring every exquisite object in the hall under the dim light.
Outside the main hall of Dongga Temple, I met a monk Juemu, and walked around the hall with her twice, listening to her tell her story of becoming a monk and the common principles of entering Buddhism. It makes Buddhist theories as deep as the sea seem to be more acceptable to ordinary people.
There is a circular mani pile next to the Great Monastery, where several Tibetans are reciting scriptures. With a cane in one hand and a Jinglun in the other, he arched his waist deeply, slowly turning around the mani pile over and over again step by step, for the unchanging belief in his heart.
It seems that there is a lama school across the road from Dongga Temple, and I saw a few young lamas playing basketball, and when they saw us taking pictures, they waved their hands and told us not to take pictures. Well, respect the wishes of the other person.
Leaving Dongga Monastery, we head to Ganzi. Because Sedar Rong Wuming Buddhist College cannot be entered, we asked the travel agency to adjust the accommodation for the night, from Seda County (3980 meters) to Ganzi County (3200 meters), the most important reason is that the altitude of Ganzi is lower than Seda by a few hundred meters!This is very important for peers who have developed high reactions. Passing by the pass of Nailong Mountain, it is 4,580 meters above sea level.
On the way, I saw a red house similar to Seda. Maybe this place will become the second Seda in the future?
Accommodation that night, changed from Seda to Ganzi Yongkang Hotel, and the altitude dropped by a few hundred meters.
Cloudy to sunny
The
"Epic of King Gesar" is known as the last epic poem still sung in the world today, and Ganzi is its birthplace and inheritance. The royal city of Gesar is a display window of Gesar culture and a platform to experience Gesar culture. Of course, you have to go to Ganzi. The Gesar Royal City is located in the southeast of Ganzi County, and we went there early in the morning, and the palace was not open yet. There is no ticket, but no one explains.
As soon as you walk through the gate, you will see a sheepskin map depicting the ruins of the legendary Gesar. Gesar represents the highest achievement of ancient Tibetan folk culture, with a complete heritage, a long history, a vast volume, profound and broad, magnificent in scale and rich in content. Although it may not be possible to understand it, I still have a deep curiosity about this ancient Tibetan culture.
This is an antique architectural landscape area, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, built on the site of the Gesar epic "Huoling War". The original appearance of the royal city is restored in all dimensions, with a magnificent atmosphere and simple elegance. The entire royal city is divided into royal city cultural area, wetland leisure area, grassland experience area, and epic sightseeing area. It is said that cultural elements extracted from epics can be found in the form of epic stories in the royal city.
Senzhudaz Palace The main hall of King Gesar, the most conspicuous architect in the city, is the "Senzhu Dazi Palace" and "Thirty Generals' Village". The most worth seeing is the Royal Palace Museum, which unfortunately no one explains, missing the opportunity to learn more about the legend of King Gesar.
King Gesar is a brave and omnipotent national hero in the minds of the Tibetan people, and there are statues of him in many places in Tibet, buildings named after him, Square.
In front of every house in the scenic village, you can see a warrior statue with a horizontal sword.
There are many small scenes reflecting the culture of the Tibetan nation in the scenic area, and you will gain a lot by walking through them and observing them carefully.
This area may be the wetland leisure area and grassland experience area in the scenic area. The sun is good and gives us a little surprise.
Some people say that this is a commercial district with a complete range of food, housing, transportation, travel, shopping, and entertainment, so there are no tickets. But because of Monday and the small number of visitors early in the morning, we have not been able to fully experience the charm of this antique building, and we left in a hurry after the museum opened.
[Internet celebrity old man on National Highway 317]
Whenthe car arrived at the Yalong River near Laima Village, Xiaowei stopped the car. I saw an old Tibetan man with a white beard sitting on a small mountain bag, shaking a large prayer tube in his hand. Xiaowei said that he is an Internet celebrity on National Highway 317, 365 days a year, almost every day here. It's rare to meet today.
We immediately jumped out of the car, took a few pictures from a distance, and then climbed onto the hill bag to talk and take pictures with the old man up close.
The old man's surname is Wang, 63 years old this year, lives in a nearby village, and has been preaching here for 23 years, except for heavy rain and snow, he comes here almost every day to pray, so that his chanting sound floats across the Yalong River and farther away to the snow-capped mountains with the prayer wheel. After 23 years of sun and rain, the old man had a dark face, a tough body, and a hearty speech, and he took out his ID card to show us. It is really valuable to be able to do one thing in a lifetime and let everyone remember you.
After obtaining the consent of the old man, we took photos and videos with the old man up close, and took a group photo with the old man.
Continue on, the next stop is Xinluhai.
On the way, we passed a large-scale temple building, built on the mountain, with red walls and golden roofs, which was extraordinary. I only know that this place belongs to Ganzi Autonomous Prefecture, but I don't know what this place is? What kind of temple is it?
The layers of white pagodas surrounding the temple are quite spectacular.
[New Road Sea - Like Xinjiang Tianshan]
Xinluhai did not go in because of the closure of maintenance, so he took a few pictures from a distance on the side of the road. This is the only lake we have encountered along the way, and from a distance, the lake under the snow-capped mountains is blue, surrounded by green pines and cypresses, very beautiful, a bit of the taste of Xinjiang Tianshan.
In the river flowing outside the lake, large and small mani stones have been washed away by the river for many years, and the colorful patterns have slowly faded. But the prayers in the hearts of Tibetans still flowed slowly into the distance with the current.
【 Que'er Mountain - Whip hitting the sky]
After passing the Que'er Mountain Observation Deck, at an altitude of 4,300, it used to take more than an hour to drive the winding mountain road to cross Que'er Mountain, but now there is the Que'er Mountain Tunnel, which can be easily crossed in just 7 minutes.
Que'er Mountain is a well-known mountain name, located in Dege County, with an altitude of 4,889 meters above sea level on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, which is the highest highway pass in Sichuan and a famous dangerous pass on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. The highest peak of Queer Mountain is 6,168 meters, and there are 3 peaks with an altitude of more than 6,000 meters! Therefore, there is a local saying that "climb Que'er Mountain, and the whip hits the sky". Now that the Queershan Tunnel has been opened, the tunnel has become one of the landscapes, with an altitude of only 4,330 meters.
Que'er Mountain is covered with snow all year round, ice and snow, majestic and majestic, and the most peculiar thing is its jagged stone peaks and jagged ridges.
Continuing on, a sign from a tourist attraction tells us that we should enter Dege in Ganzi. This may be a niche scenic spot, because the car guide can't tell what place it is. The signs signed: Dama Cave Observation Deck, Bona Great Pagoda, and Shakyamuni Statue. This is a canyon, a very peculiar Buddha building stands high on the side of the mountain on one side, and two long crimson pillars extend to the top of the cliff, supporting the golden roof. The rock wall is embedded with several beautifully carved and painted Buddha statues.
The Bona Great Stupa across the river is very similar to the Bodhaha Great Stupa in Nepal. The Buddha's eyes on the pagoda seem to be able to see through all the joys, sorrows, sorrows and sorrows in the world.
[Dege County - the last county in Sichuan]
I arrived in Dege County before 5 p.m. This is a small county town built on the mountain, the narrow streets, the houses that seem to look the same on both sides of the street, and the street lamps on the street, all of which make me full of curiosity.
Half an hour before the closure of the Dege Printing Institute, we drove the car directly to the Printing Institute and took a look at the periphery. The Printing Institute is located in the county seat and is a holy place in the minds of many Tibetans, and its status is comparable to that of Jokhang Temple. It is said that if you can't go to the Jokhang Temple in this life, you can worship at the Dege Printing Institute, which can be regarded as a complete merit.
That night, I stayed at the Degeshandi Hotel, which was another hotel surrounded by mountains and rivers, and the gable wall was like a granite ink painting in the sun; The river was rushing endlessly. It should be a hotel that has just opened, and the facilities are good.
Dege County is the last county in Sichuan on our trip, and we will be transferred to Tibet after Dege.
Daqing
[The Mysterious Dege Printing Institute]
Today's focus, and the focus of this journey, is the Dege Printing Institute. After breakfast, we came here again, and the crowd passing outside the cinnabar red wall was almost one after another, a lot of people. Turning scriptures is a major event in the lives of the Tibetan people, from morning to night, no matter whether it is windy or rainy. As long as you enter the Tibetan area, as long as there is a Tibetan landmark building, someone will pass the scriptures there.
The Dege Institute of Printing is known as the "Encyclopedia of Tibetan Culture", "The Brilliant Cultural Pearl of the Tibetan Region" and "The Treasure House Under the Snow-capped Mountains". This is a treasure of Tibetan culture, and almost all the scriptures and scriptures in the entire Tibetan area come from here, and the most primitive engraving and printing techniques are still preserved. In 2009, the engraving and printing technology of Dege Printing Institute was included in the UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Industries of Humanity.
This Dege Printing Institute, which took 30 years to build by 4 generations of toasts, has always fascinated me, and it has always been a mystery in my heart. I have been wanting to come to the Dege Printing Institute for many years, and this trip has returned my wish.
Gaze at the cinnabar red building from a high place in the distance, and the golden roof of the building shines in the sun. The rows of red houses on the hillside behind the Printing Institute seem to take people to Seda. Perhaps, this is the characteristic of the Tibetan settlement area. The crowd of people transferring scriptures is endless, adding a touch of movement to this mysterious printing house.
Walking into the gate of the printing institute, two large iron rings with prayer flags hanging from the gate, a manager told me not to bring the camera in, let me put the camera in the safe box. But mobile phone shooting is allowed. What a strange rule!
The first thing I saw was rinsing the scripture printing board, and several staff members rinsed the scripture plate in front of the running water, rinsed the ink clean, and recited the scriptures while working.
Climb the almost 90-degree wooden staircase to the second floor, where you can see nothing in the darkness.After a short period of slow adaptation, I found that this was a collector's library, like a library, one by one, full of printed plates, and in the dim light, I identified those scripture plates that I would never be able to understand and could not understand, and the shelves were very neatly divided into different categories. Each length seems to be the same, and the slender scriptures have a handle. The staff moved the scripture plates up and down, I really admired them, and I didn't know how to find them.
I went up another floor, and the hall immediately brightened up a lot, and I came to the scripture printing room. It is an open space with good lighting. There were several groups of people busy. When printing, one person runs back and forth to get the book plate, the other two sit opposite each other, one high and one low, the book plate is placed between the two, one uses the eraser plate dipped in ink to paint the plate, the other puts the paper, rolls and peels off with a tube, and a page of the book is printed immediately. It's a bit like the woodcuts I saw in the past.
The printing paper is specially made using the ancient handmade papermaking technique of the Han people, which is strong in toughness, and is said to be made of wolf poison grass as raw material, because it contains a little toxin, insects do not moth, rats do not bite, It will not spoil after being stored for a long time.
The printed scriptures are available in two colors of ink, cinnabar red and black. The Printing Institute stipulates that the Tripitaka must be printed in vermilion ink (cinnabar finely ground, glued, and made into red ink) to show respect, and the rest are printed in black ink.
Then he moved to the engraving and printing workshop, where three craftsmen were carving with tools. The wood used for carving is very particular, and the book "Tibet, Tibet" introduces that it must use green oka wood, which has a hard texture. A craftsman told me that he was repairing it, and showed me a scripture with a red tick on it, which was wrongly engraved and needed to be corrected and repaired. This craftsman is really interesting, ask me where I came from? Tell him: Guangdong. He immediately took out two engraved seals from a plastic bag, one engraved with the six-character mantra and the other engraved with Tashi Dele, saying that he could sell it to me. I politely refused, because I had not entered Buddhism and did not understand these things very well.
The small house opposite the scripture printing corridor is a place to store scripture paintings. The two craftsmen sat in front of the window, printing one by one in natural light. I looked at it for a while and wanted to leave, but a craftsman suddenly said: Why are you leaving? I don't look at it for a while. Stay and chat with them again. He told me to print more than a thousand paintings a day, which were used on the White Pagoda. For a year, except for the winter in November and December, I work here every day. He has been here for 20 years.
The best place in the printing house is the rooftop and the promenade of the scripture board, and the whole building is colorful and resplendent in the sun. I lingered and didn't want to leave.
The Dege Printing Institute is really a mysterious place, although I basically walked to every corner, but I didn't listen to anyone explain it, in my heart it is still so mysterious.
[Goodbye Sichuan! ] I'm here in Tibet! At
about 12 noon, we crossed the Jinsha River Bridge through the tunnel, and we left Sichuan and entered Jiangda, Tibet. A large stone engraved with the word Tibet stands next to the tunnel entrance in Sichuan. Goodbye, Sichuan!
The Jinsha River is the natural dividing line between Sichuan and Tibet, and the G317 Jinsha River Bridge on the Sichuan-Tibet North Line is an important passage connecting Sichuan and Tibet. It is connected to Ganzi Dege County in Sichuan to the east and Jiangda County in Changdu Tibet to the west. This is the throat fortress from Sichuan to Tibet. When the car drove on the bridge, I saw a big special billboard in front of me from a distance, "Tibet Main Gate Jiangda Welcomes You", the word "door" was deliberately written in a big way, a little funny, as if entering Tibet from other places was not going through the main gate. We came to Gangtuo Village, the gateway to eastern Tibet, known as the "First Village of Tibet Liberation".
Near the village, the first thing that catches your eye is the gate with the plaque of "The First Village for the Liberation of Tibet", the left side of the gate is carved with three brown and red flags, on which is the picture of the 18th Army entering Tibet and the Tibetan people celebrating, and the watchtower standing next to the gate seems to be guarding this beautiful village that raised the first five-star red flag in Tibet. All of this tells me that this is a place with history and stories.
In the autumn of more than 70 years ago, the 18th Army of the Chinese People's Liberation Army was ordered to enter Tibet and decided to strengthen the Jinsha River when the Tibetan government refused to negotiate peace talks and Chen Bing was stationed along the Jinsha River. In the early morning of October 6, 1950, when the peace road was blocked, the 18th Army forcibly crossed the Jinsha River and fired the first shot of the Battle of Changdu. In the evening of the same day, Gangtuo Village was liberated and became the first place in Tibet to raise the five-star red flag. Unexpectedly, we entered Tibet along the road of Tibet's liberation this time.
After crossing the Jinsha River Bridge, there was the Jinsha River checkpoint on the Tibetan side, and the three of us from Guangdong were seriously asked to register and take pictures. Pass big data + ID card + nucleic acid test report. Fortunately, nucleic acid was done in Chengdu on the 21st, and the report was received on the 22nd, and there are still 3 days left before it is valid within 7 days. It seems that nucleic acid testing will be done again before entering Lhasa, and Lhasa requires nucleic acid testing to be valid within three days.
【 to be continued】
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