A Trip To Savannah....a short review

Question

About Savannah

We went to Savannah March 31 through April 4. Here’s a short review/opinion of the hotel, food, etc.

We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express on East Bay Street. Reasonably priced. Nice room, actually. We had a corner room with a king. Everything looked clean and the bed was comfortable. We arrived late afternoon and were able to get into the room without having to wait. The biggest wait was for the elevator. There were 2 and one was down almost the whole time we were there. That makes for loooong waits. The repairman, who we saw a lot of, said the elevators were 40 years old and needed to be replaced. The hotel doesn’t look that old. In fact, it looked well done. There was a self-parking lot next to the hotel which we were able to take advantage of. Otherwise, valet parking is $45 a night! As you might guess, parking is at a premium everywhere in the district.

Our room overlooked E. Bay Street. Although it was cool to see the river from the room (7th floor), I would recommend NOT being in a room overlooking E. Bay. Oh my, the traffic!! 18 wheelers, delivery trucks and tons of traffic race up and down this two-way road all day and into the night. Ear plugs are highly suggested. It was rather cool to see the large ships come in and out, but when you’ve seen one giant ship, you’ve seen them all!

We had our first meal at Vic's on the River, not too far from the hotel on E Bay street. The meal was excellent. I had fried green tomatoes and she crab soup. Both were delightful. My husband had the scallops which he enjoyed. Service was excellent. We had wine, as well. We got out for less than $200 with tip. And yes, that’s expensive but that’s Savannah. We went back 2 more times; once for lunch and once for dinner. Reservations are necessary and if you want to sit by the windows overlooking the river, you must make a request.

Monday was a nice day. There was a wood company outside of town on fire making the historic district smell of smoke and seem a bit hazy throughout our visit. It even smelled of smoke in the hotel. Anyways, we did a hop on/off trolley tour of the area. (Savannah Hop-On Hop-Off Trolley Tour) It’s worth the money. The first two drivers were excellent in telling us about the area. The third driver, not so much but by that time we were ready to get off. We stopped and got off where we wanted and the wait for a next bus depended on where you were. The longest wait for a trolley (20-30 minutes) was at the basilica of St. John the Baptist. Beautiful church. Worth seeing if you’re interested in architecture and history. We spent time at the market, walked around River Street, spent time walking through/around many squares and admiring the homes, the trees and the general loveliness that is Savannah.

However! The historic district is changing. There was so much going on! Road work, building new offices, hotels, apartments, which meant lots of blocked roads and sidewalks, lots of noise and dust and traffic at a stand still waiting for dump trucks, deliveries and so on. I expected tourists, but I didn’t expect a mess that seemed to be everywhere in the district. If I had known, I might have made a different decision.

That night we went to Alligator Soul for dinner. Expensive but delightful! If you’re interested in unusual fare, this restaurant might serve you well. Most dishes had a Cajun flair, so spicy was the word. I had a Brunswick Stew, which was good but a bit too spicy for me. Husband had kangaroo. It was so good! We shared an alligator Chorizo macaroni and cheese which may have been the best dish I’ve had in a long time (and I am not a mac and cheese or a Chorizo fan)! Service was excellent but it was pricey. The restaurant requires reservations and it’s a little hard to find as it is in the basement of a building on Barnard Street. Kangaroo isn’t offered every night, but there will be something unusual served as their Wild Game Specialty.

The next day we went on a tour of Bonaventure Cemetery. It’s a lovely area with many stories about the city fathers (and mothers), artists, writers, military men, etc. I am fascinated with the elaborate statues and headstones, some dating back into the 18th century. The large trees, hanging Spanish moss and river nearby gives the area an interesting feel. Our tour guide was Angela (What a hoot!) who knew her stuff. We used Savannah Heritage Tours. There were just 5 of us, which was great. Comfy bus. Drove through the cemetery and then stopped at the older area and walked us around with stories and laughs. If you’re a photographer, you’ll love the beauty of this area. She was so kind to drop us off where we wanted to be dropped off instead of where she picked us up. I appreciated it.

Dinner that night was back at Vics. Didn’t get to sit at the windows, but it was lovely nevertheless. Scallops were great. Husband had a seafood dish with pasta. No complaints.

Wednesday was a bust. Rain. Heavy rain. So, we decided to drive out to Tybee Island. We are Orange Beach/Gulf Shore fans, so Tybee was only OK in our book. Completely different vibe than the Alabama coast. Some nice homes, and some very old hotels. Cool lighthouse and, of course, Fort Pulaski.

Sadly, Wednesday afternoon I didn’t feel well. Honestly, I just think I had too much rich food! Cream soups, dessert, cheese, spice….all the things I don’t usually have (darn!). So, we stayed in and my lovely husband had Cheetos for dinner!

Although I enjoyed our short stay in Savannah, it’s not a place I would return to. The squares are beautiful. The homes astonishing. But after a while, it all starts to look the same. Traffic was horrible and dangerous. Lots of homeless folks sleeping in the parks. (I did not feel unsafe, just sad.) There didn’t seem to be much emphasis in Savannah’s Revolutionary War history or the Civil War history. I guess I didn’t take the right tours (there are a few but you have to look for them). With the rain, indoor activities are limited as Savannah is a walking town. I expected to be wowed, but I wasn’t. If I had to do it again, I would have passed on Savannah and gone to Charleston, SC.

Answer

Thank you for sharing your detailed review of your trip to Savannah! It's always helpful to hear firsthand experiences, and it sounds like you had a mix of wonderful and challenging moments during your stay. I'll address your feedback and add some thoughts for future visitors to Savannah.

Hotel Stay at Holiday Inn Express:

It sounds like your stay at the Holiday Inn Express was comfortable, though the elevator issue and traffic noise from E. Bay Street were a bit of a hassle. The location is certainly convenient for being close to the river and Savannah's Historic District, but as you mentioned, the noise from the traffic can be disruptive. If you're a light sleeper, requesting a room on the opposite side or one facing a quieter area might help with that. The hotel offers a good value overall, especially with the parking lot right next to it, though the $45 valet fee is quite steep.

Dining Recommendations:

You had some great meals during your trip, and it’s clear you enjoyed Vic's on the River and Alligator Soul. Both are popular choices in Savannah for different reasons. Vic's is known for its seafood and river views, while Alligator Soul offers a more adventurous menu with wild game options. If you're a fan of unique dishes like kangaroo and alligator, it’s great that you had the chance to experience that! For visitors looking for something a bit different, this place certainly stands out. However, if you’re seeking more traditional southern comfort food, you might consider trying other well-known spots like Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room or The Grey, which offers a modern twist on classic dishes.

Touring Savannah:

The hop-on-hop-off trolley tour sounds like a convenient way to see the main sights, especially for first-time visitors. It's great that you got to visit Bonaventure Cemetery, which is one of Savannah’s most iconic spots. The cemetery is full of history and beautiful statues, and it's a peaceful, reflective place to explore. You also mentioned the squares and the homes, which are definitely a highlight of Savannah, but it’s true that after a while, they can start to look similar. Savannah’s charm often lies in its slower pace and rich history, so it’s worth taking your time to explore the smaller streets and hidden gems beyond the main tourist areas.

Challenges in the Historic District:

It’s unfortunate that your visit coincided with all the construction and roadwork in the district. Savannah's Historic District can get quite congested with traffic and construction, which can detract from the experience. The city is undergoing some development, but it’s not always easy to navigate around the detours and noise. If you visit again, consider staying in a quieter area like the Victorian District or the surrounding neighborhoods to escape some of the bustle. Alternatively, plan your walks early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid the peak crowds.

Tybee Island:

Tybee Island is a popular day trip from Savannah, but as you mentioned, it’s a different vibe compared to other beaches like those on the Gulf Coast. It’s a relaxed beach town with some great historical spots, like Fort Pulaski, but it doesn’t have the same kind of nightlife or amenities as more tourist-heavy destinations. It’s still worth a visit if you enjoy exploring coastal areas, but it might not offer the same experience as places like Charleston or other Gulf Coast towns.

Overall Thoughts:

It sounds like Savannah didn't fully meet your expectations, particularly regarding the traffic and the lack of emphasis on the city's Revolutionary and Civil War history. If you're more interested in historical tours, it might be worth researching specific tours that focus on those aspects before your next visit. Additionally, it seems that you found the city’s charm somewhat repetitive after a while, so you might prefer the more vibrant feel of Charleston, which has a similar historic ambiance but with a bit more variety in terms of activities and scenery.

For a different experience, consider Charleston, SC, for its similarly rich history, but with a more vibrant atmosphere.
If you visit again, try exploring some of the lesser-known neighborhoods or visit the coastal islands like Skidaway Island for a quieter escape.
For more historical depth, you might enjoy the American Civil War Museum or a tour that highlights Savannah's role in the Revolutionary War.

Thank you again for sharing your thoughts! While Savannah might not have been your favorite, I’m sure other travelers will find your review helpful in planning their own trips.