Trip Report

Question

Where we stayed:

First four nights at the Holiday Inn Express in Kona, then three nights at the SCP in Hilo then back to Kona for one more night at the HIE before our flight from Kona to Kauai. I was very favorably impressed with the Holiday Inn Express; wasn’t sure what I was getting us into, but it exceeded my expectations. It was clean and comfortable, and all staff we encountered were very friendly and helpful. The breakfast buffet was also extensive and good, although seating would get pretty limited at times. The hotel is very centrally located and about a block off the main drag in town with numerous bars and restaurants.

The SCP in Hilo is very much an older property, but the staff is friendly, and they do the best they can with what they have to work with. Not our favorite.

What we did:

We drove to Pololu Valley and did the hike down to the black sand beach. They say the hike is easy to moderate, and it was all of moderate for a couple old geezers with arthritic knees. A local said they’ve already helicoptered three people out of there this year. It is a little steep but very rocky, would be easy to turn an ankle. It is beautiful there though.

Heads up…we stopped at the little café across the street from the King Kamehameha statue and were charged over $9 for two cans of diet coke.

We sailed with SeaQuest to the Captain Cook Memorial for a snorkel. Crew (B and MJ) were great, and it was a nice snorkel, although it gets a little crowded.

We hiked into Kaloko Beach and found the tide pools to be basically turtle soup. MANY green sea turtles lounging there.

On our drive from Kona to Hilo we went to the southern tip of the island and visited the Green Sand Beach. We paid $20 for a ride to the beach, rather than hiking, and it was an adventure. Those poor vehicles get the crap beat out of them, and they look like it. I got to ride in front with the driver, and he was very friendly and shared a lot of local knowledge.

We took the drive up the SE coast line from Kalapana to the end of the road where the lava took out the road. Very pretty drive. We did not hit the clothing optional black sand beach there, but cars were parked a long ways away, so it is clearly popular.

We drove the road north of Hilo to the Waipi’o Valley overlook. Another gorgeous drive, and we took in various sights along the way back including Laupahoehoe Lookout, Akaka Falls, and Onomea Bay Gardens.

We visited Volcano’s National Park and missed the eruption by two days, although we saw the live feed from the Mauna Kea visitor center. We drove to the top there, but hypoxia was not our friend, and we didn’t stay up there very long. We could see the plume from the eruption from up top.

We also checked out Wailuka River State Park and the Boiling Pot and Rainbow Falls.

What we ate:

We tried many of the obligatory eats including Poke, Malasadas, Loco Moco and Shaved Ice. In Kona, a few standouts included our meal at a Triple D joint called “Broke Da Mouth Grindz”. The Furikake Garlic Chicken is not to be missed. The Pork Belly Burnt Ends and the Portugese Sausage corn dogs at the Cheeky Tiki were quite tasty. Quinn Almost by the Sea served up a nice clam chowder, and the Big Kahuna has a very nice seafood chowder. On the Hilo side the Hilo Town Tavern served up a nice twist on a Loco Moco, serving it over tater tots rather than rice.

Impressions:

It is truly a big island. We put 800 miles on our rental car during the week we were there. Lots of beautiful spots, but it can be a long drive between them. Don’t regret going, but it’s probably a one and done for us.

Answer

Thank you for sharing such a detailed trip report — it paints a clear and enjoyable picture of your week on the Big Island. Below is a summarized, organized version of your experience for others who may be considering a similar itinerary, along with a few helpful takeaways based on what you encountered.

Where You Stayed

Your lodging choices gave you time on both sides of the island, which is the best way to see the Big Island without rushing. The Holiday Inn Express in Kona sounds like it exceeded expectations — clean rooms, welcoming staff, and a strong breakfast setup are huge perks, especially with such a convenient location just off Ali‘i Drive. It’s a reliable, comfortable base for exploring the Kona coastline.

SCP Hilo Hotel, while friendly and service-oriented, clearly showed its age. This is consistent with general traveler feedback — Hilo properties tend to be older and more rustic, but the location near downtown and nearby waterfalls often makes up for that.

Ending the trip with another night at the HIE in Kona before flying out was a smart choice, keeping things simple for an interisland flight.

What You Did

You covered an impressive amount of ground, and your activities hit many of the Big Island’s greatest highlights:

Pololū Valley Hike — A stunning spot, but definitely steeper and rockier than many guides suggest. Your note about helicopter rescues is a helpful reminder that conditions can be tougher than expected. The reward, though — that black sand beach and dramatic valley — is one of the best on the island.
Captain Cook Snorkel with SeaQuest — Great crew and a lively bay. As you saw, it does get busy, but the fish life and visibility make it worth it.
Kaloko Beach Turtle Tidepools — “Turtle soup” is the perfect description. This spot is often overlooked but offers extremely reliable turtle viewing.
South Point & Green Sand Beach — Taking the 4x4 “shuttle” is definitely the safer (and more entertaining) choice. Those rides are a memorable part of the experience.
Kalapana / SE Coast Road — Very scenic and peaceful, with dramatic lava fields meeting the coastline. Even skipping Kehena Beach, the drive alone is worth it.
Waipi‘o Valley Overlook & Hāmākua Coast — This stretch is one of the most beautiful roads in the state. Stopping at Akaka Falls, Laupāhoehoe, and Onomea Bay gives a perfect mix of scenery.
Volcanoes National Park — Just missing the eruption glow is always a bit disappointing, but witnessing it via the Mauna Kea live feed and seeing the plume from the summit is still special. Altitude sickness is very real up there — you made the right call not pushing it.
Rainbow Falls & Boiling Pots — Easy, classic Hilo-side sights that never disappoint.

What You Ate

You sampled a great mix of local classics and standout Big Island restaurants:

Broke Da Mouth Grindz — A beloved Kona favorite; their furikake garlic chicken really is famous for a reason.
Cheeky Tiki — Fun choices with the pork belly burnt ends and sausage corn dogs.
Quinn Almost by the Sea & The Big Kahuna — Two solid chowder stops for comfort food by the water.
Hilo Town Tavern — A creative spin on loco moco with tater tots — Hilo style!

And of course, checking off poke, malasadas, shave ice, and loco moco makes any Hawai‘i trip complete.

Overall Impressions

Your report captures the essence of the Big Island beautifully: it’s vast, varied, full of natural wonders, but requires a lot of driving. Logging 800 miles in a week is actually pretty typical for visitors who really explore both sides.

You experienced many of the island’s best highlights — rugged valleys, volcano landscapes, lush waterfall regions, and one-of-a-kind beaches — so it makes sense that you feel satisfied even if you don’t plan to return. The Big Island is unforgettable, but also demanding in terms of time, distance, and energy.

Thank you again for sharing such a thoughtful and helpful trip report — it will be incredibly useful for anyone planning a visit!