Snowland Shura | 2018-09-06 | 137600

Where is Danba Tibetan Village? When is the best time to visit?

Preface

You can say:

The beauty of Danba Tibetan Village is the beauty of freedom and ease!

Here, human habitation is the embellishment of nature, and nature is the sustenance of human habitation.

The vision of Danba people is full of lush greenery, and the hearts of Danba people are full of flowers.

This is the natural attribute of Tibetan dwellings - away from the hustle and bustle of the world, at ease and content, and one with nature.

This is also the reason why National Geographic China listed Danba as the most beautiful village in China in its special edition of Beauty China.

Overview of Danba

Poetic Dwelling

Danba County is located in western Sichuan Province and eastern Garze Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. To its east and northeast lie the renowned Wolong Nature Reserve, the Siguniang Mountain Scenic Area, and the Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou World Heritage Areas. To its south and southwest lie the Gongga Mountain Scenic Area, known as the "King of Sichuan Mountains," the Hailuogou Glacier Park, and Kangding, known as the hometown of love songs. To its west lie Daofu and Luhuo, gateways deep into Tibetan territory.

This region is crisscrossed by rivers and deep valleys. The Dajin, Geshizha, Donggu, and Xiaojin rivers converge to form the famous Dadu River. It is home to the mysterious Moldo Mountain, one of Tibet's four sacred mountains. It also boasts a cluster of thousand-year-old watchtowers, hailed as "a marvel of stone architecture and fortified dwellings in China and even the world" and "a monument to human civilization." As a result, Danba County has earned the reputation of "the first city on the Dadu River" and "the home of a thousand watchtowers."

In this beautiful and picturesque environment, 15 ethnic groups live, including Tibetan, Han, Hui, and Qiang, with the Jiarong Tibetans being the most prominent. The watchtowers and Tibetan villages together form the most beautiful scenery of Danba.

Screenshot of the China special issue of the National Geographic China beauty pageant

Danba, located in the Dadu River basin at the heart of the "Tibetan-Yi Corridor," is a prime example of the cultural exchange and integration between Tibetans and Qiang peoples, and holds high academic research value. The "Tibetan-Yi Corridor," anchored by its unique natural geography and its position at the Han-Tibetan border, served as a major transportation hub for the migration and exchange of ethnic minorities in ancient southwestern my country. The Danba Tibetan village is meticulously sited and embodies simple planning principles. The traditional dwellings are tailored to local conditions, closely integrated with the natural environment, and incorporate diverse religious and cultural elements.

Zhonglu, Jiaju, and Suopo are the best-preserved Jiarong Tibetan villages in Danba. Not far from Danba County, they retain the most primitive Jiarong Tibetan architecture and lifestyle. They are all located at the foot of the sacred Mount Meldo, at the confluence of the Dajinchuan, Xiaojinchuan, and Dadu Rivers.

Danba Tibetan Village has unique scenery in all four seasons. In spring, the peach and pear blossoms are snow-white, in late autumn, they are golden and fiery red, and in winter, they are covered in silver. It is a paradise for photographers.

Transportation to Danba Tibetan Village

The county seat of Danba County is located in Zhanggu Town on the banks of the Dadu River, at an altitude of 1,800 meters. It is 137 kilometers away from Kangding and 368 kilometers away from Chengdu. There are three roads to reach Danba from Chengdu.

1. Depart from Chengdu, take the Duwen Expressway past Dujiangyan, exit the expressway at Yingxiu Town, take Provincial Highway 303 past Rilong Town at the foot of Mount Siguniang, continue west along the Xiaojin River, pass Xiaojin County, and continue along Provincial Highway 303 to reach Danba County.

2. Starting from Chengdu, take the Chengya Expressway through Ya'an, turn onto the Yakang Expressway, get off at Luding, head towards Kangding, turn right at Wasigou, and enter Provincial Highway 211. Continue driving for about 114 kilometers to reach Danba, passing through the two larger towns of Guza and Kongyu. However, this road is prone to landslides during heavy summer rains, so it is not recommended to take this route during the rainy season.

3. There are buses departing from Chengdu Chadianzi Bus Station to Danba County at 8:00 and 9:30 every day. The journey takes about 6-7 hours. After arriving at Danba County, you can take a local minivan (you can stop the car at any time and the price can be negotiated with the driver). It takes about half an hour to reach Zhonglu Tibetan Village or Jiaju Tibetan Village.

Tips:

From Danba County, travel upstream along the Dadu River. After crossing the bridge at the Danba County Passenger Transport Center on the west side of the county, head north and follow the road and signs for about 10 kilometers to reach Jiaju Tibetan Village. There's currently no entrance fee to Jiaju Tibetan Village, but buses are not allowed to enter, so private cars are welcome.

From Danba County, drive about 4 kilometers toward Xiaojin County on Provincial Highway 303. Turn right and cross the bridge. A rural road leads directly to Zhonglu. Zhonglu is located on a plateau overlooked by the sacred Merduo Mountain. The road leading to it is narrow, so drive carefully. There is no entrance fee to Zhonglu Tibetan Village.

From Danba County, follow Provincial Highway S211 south along the Dadu River. After about 4.5 kilometers, you will see a bridge on the left side of the road. After crossing the bridge, go up the winding mountain road to enter the Suopo Diaolou complex.

Danba's four seasons beauty

Danba pear blossoms in spring

As April's blossoms fade, the pear blossoms of the mountain temple begin to bloom. Spring arrives later in Danba than in the plains, yet it's even more vibrant. The Tibetan villages of early spring are tranquil and peaceful, with sunlight filtering through tender green buds and vibrant flowers, bringing life to the area.

Here, there's no clamor of traffic, no tourists thronging the mountains. Only the towering Merduo Mountain and the village's towering watchtowers speak of its history. Occasionally, a black and white magpie soars across the fields, chirping.

When the first rays of morning sunlight illuminated the village, the once gloomy landscape suddenly took on a touch of color. Slowly, the sun gradually illuminated the farmland, the houses, the watchtowers, and even the treetops and pear blossoms. The prayer flags on the roofs fluttered in the morning breeze, vibrant with color. The village, silent all night, suddenly came alive. Find a high point and watch the spring mist rise and shift across the mountains. You'll weave between the watchtowers and the mountains, drift among the green trees and fields, and permeate the pear and peach blossoms. Light and shadow outline the contours of each house and terraced rice paddy in the distant village, layered in distinct layers from far to near.

Tips: In comparison, Jiaju Tibetan Village and Suopo Tibetan Village do not have platforms that are very suitable for shooting large panoramas. When shooting Jiaju and Suopo, you can choose more small and medium scenes, such as a house with pear blossoms in full bloom or a close-up of pear blossoms.

Zhonglu Tibetan Village shooting location

Tips: Photography tips

The pear blossoms in Danba usually bloom from late March to early April, with a deviation of about one week each year depending on the climate.

Lighting: The best times to shoot are early morning and late afternoon. Combine this with the soft light around sunrise and sunset to capture panoramic views of the pear blossoms in the Tibetan village. Lighting: Pear blossoms are white in color, so when photographing large expanses of white blossoms, it's recommended to use a snow scene as a reference and increase exposure compensation as appropriate, otherwise the white flowers will appear grayish. Given the large highlights of the pear blossoms, evaluative metering is recommended. Composition: The village's unique watchtowers and traditional Tibetan dwellings can serve as a backdrop for pear blossom photography, enriching the composition. If a close-up is necessary, focus on capturing the texture, layers, and grain of the flowers.

Summer resort

Although not as gorgeous as spring, Danba's summer is cool and comfortable, with neither severe cold in winter nor scorching heat in summer. Even in the hottest months of July and August, the highest temperature is only 22.5℃. Surrounded by mountains and lush vegetation, the air is exceptionally fresh, making it the most suitable summer resort.

In summer, the vibrant colors of the woods fade, becoming solemn and desolate, but the vast expanse of lush green remains a magnificent sight, its brooding greenness resembling a military uniform. At summer harvest time, the rice fields turn a brilliant golden yellow, a classic combination of yellow and green covering the entire Danba landscape.

Danba's summers are characterized by heavy rainfall and humidity, creating a hazy, ethereal, and dreamy sky. The mountains seem distant and hazy, creating the illusion of being transported to Huangshan and yet also to Guilin, cautiously strolling through a dreamscape of fog, dreams, and rain.

Every year, starting on the tenth day of the seventh lunar month, the week-long Melduo Temple Fair is held at Melduo Temple at the foot of Melduo Mountain. A touching legend still circulates about the Melduo Temple Fair. Legend has it that there lived in Danba a brave and courageous Tibetan youth named Melduo, who stood up for justice and stood up for justice. Recruited by the Tubo Empire, he led an expedition to repel the invasion of the Balbu tribe and returned victorious. To honor his loyalty and bravery, descendants renamed Mount Gelong Melduo and built a temple and statue in his honor at its foot. From then on, Melduo became the sacred mountain of the Bon religion, and General Melduo became the patron deity of the Jiarong region. Every year on the tenth day of the seventh lunar month—the birthday of General Melduo—Tibetans flock from all over the region to the Melduo Temple to pay homage to General Melduo, burn incense, fulfill vows, and circumambulate the sacred mountain. This "tenth day of the seventh lunar month" naturally became the annual "Melduo Circumambulation Festival" in the Jiarong region.

Thousands of monks, believers, and tourists flock here to pray for the mountain deity's protection and a peaceful year ahead. However, devout pilgrims often choose to hold a horizontal banner and circle Mount Merduo, praying for protection from disasters and protection in this life. The annual temple fair also features Tibetan opera performances. Originating as religious art in the 8th century, Tibetan opera has gradually become more independent of religion, but its content still primarily revolves around mythological stories from Buddhist scriptures, with high-pitched and majestic singing. While the music is tailored to the performer, each piece is accompanied by vocal accompaniment. The dramatic performances, which have survived to this day, offer a completely different approach from traditional Chinese opera and are well worth a listen.

Merdo Temple Fair, photo provided by @Deji

Merdo Temple Fair, photo provided by @Deji

Danba Tibetan Opera, picture from Sohu Travel Network

Tips: Meldo Temple is located in Yuezha Township, Danba County. You can reach it from Danba towards Xiaojin.

Autumn colorful forest countryside

After the Frost Descent, the leaves in Danba Tibetan Village gradually turn from green to yellow and then red. Autumn winds blow, and the fallen leaves flutter, turning the forest into a sea of ​​vibrant colors.

The autumn colors of Danba Tibetan Village differ from the majestic Xinjiang scenery of late September, or the golden Daocheng scenery shrouded by snow-capped peaks in mid-October. Danba's autumn arrives later, with the vibrant forests only gradually revealing their vibrant colors in November. Yet, Danba's autumn colors are incredibly multi-dimensional, magical and unique, and the vast expanses of vibrant forests are filled with the rich atmosphere of life.

In the China Beauty Pageant special for National Geographic China, contributor Zhu Yong wrote: "... crimson stone houses are nestled in a colorful forest... Apple, pear, and walnut trees dot the landscapes around the houses. Every autumn, the uneaten fruit from the trees falls to the ground below. Late at night, you can sometimes hear the clatter of falling fruit. Here, residents and nature have achieved a high degree of harmony..."

Autumn Scenery in Zhonglu

Image from China-TravelNote Photography Network

Tips: Due to its altitude, Danba's autumn arrives later than in Siguniang Mountain, Daocheng Yading, and Xinduqiao. Leaves don't begin to turn yellow until late October, and the vibrant forests don't appear until early November.

Winter is covered in snow

The winter in Danba Tibetan Village does not have the colorful flowers of spring, the lush green of summer, or the gorgeous colors of autumn; Danba’s winter is a little more chilly and a little more quiet. However, after the heavy snow falls, Danba, covered in silver, presents another scene.

When the walnut, apple, and pear trees covering the mountain are blanketed in thick snow, the village feels tranquil yet not forbidding. People are busy preparing for the New Year and tending to the fields. The thick snow filters out all noise, leaving only the echoing calls of magpies. Towers stand tall, like guards on high alert, protecting the quiet village at the foot of the sacred mountain.

Danba Specialties

Danba Beauty

Located at a strategic intersection of ethnic groups, Danba boasts frequent genetic exchange, imbued with the bloodline of the Western Xia royal family. Therefore, Danba has been a land of beautiful women since ancient times. "Beauty Valley" is the name people give to the Danbabadi area. More words are needed; let the photos speak for themselves.

The beautiful Danba girls Deji and Lamu sisters

Tibetan food feast

Having talked about the beautiful scenery and beauties, it’s time to talk about the food. Otherwise, the gourmets will be worried.

Fragrant Pork
Legs are a Danba specialty, known as "Baami" in the Jiarong language. Except for the Han Chinese communities in the Heba area, all other villages in Danba do make them. Every December, every household slaughters the New Year pig and uses the Fragrant Pork Legs. These are made from the four legs of a fat pig. The process involves removing the hair, cutting open the pig's belly, and removing the four "elbow ribs." The skin of each "stool" is peeled along the trotter's hooves, and the fat is removed, resulting in a perfectly shaped pig leg. After the legs are prepared, they are typically left to freeze outdoors for two or three nights before being hung in a cool, well-ventilated room for a while before being eaten. Four Fragrant Pork Legs are harvested from a single pig: the two front legs are called "cha" (forks), and the two hind legs are called "thighs." The front legs are smaller, typically weighing eight or nine pounds, but larger ones can reach fourteen or fifteen pounds. The hind legs are slightly larger, typically weighing fourteen or fifteen pounds, but larger ones can reach twenty-four or twenty-five pounds.

Different regions in Danba have different customs, and the methods of preparing fragrant pork legs vary. In Banshanmen, Taipingqiao, Geshizha, Bian'er, Dandong, Bawang, and Niejia, fragrant pork legs are made in bundles. In Badi, Suopo, and Zhonglu, the lean meat is partially removed for easier drying. In Suopo and Zhonglu, the thicker lean meat is sliced ​​but not cut off. The edges of the lean meat are then pierced with wooden sticks to form a ring shape for drying, resembling a compass.

sausage

It is similar to the Handi Sichuan sausage, but the difference is that the pork used is from local wild boars, which tastes better than sausages in the city.

Zajiu,
known as "Qia Lu" in Jiarong dialect, is brewed from highland barley. First, a certain amount of highland barley grains—usually 5, 8, or 10 jin (approximately 100 grams)—are boiled in a large iron pot until 80% cooked. The grains are then placed in a dustpan to air-dry. Once cooled, a certain amount of koji (drinking yeast) is added and mixed thoroughly. The mixture is then placed in a large iron pot and fermented for three to four days. Once the aroma develops, the mixture is placed in a jar and water is added. After a day or more, the juice is consumed, which is the zhajiu.

Zajiu has a sweet, mellow flavor, and is very refreshing. While it may not seem intoxicating, it has a slight bitterness within its sweetness. It's quite potent, so those with limited tolerance should limit their consumption. Someone once wrote a poem about drinking Zajiu: "A jar of grains, even kings and nobles bow their heads. Five dragons embrace the pillars that support the sky, and the Yellow River flows backwards after being sucked dry." This perfectly captures the allure of Zajiu and its pleasurable drinking experience. The people of Badi, Shangban Township of Banshanmen, and Taipingqiao Township in Danba love to prepare Zajiu. Every household has a stock of Zajiu, and it's often exchanged between friends and family as a courtesy and social gesture. Drinking Zajiu is a local tradition.

The "Zhanggu Tunzhi (Brief)" records the food customs of the Zhailong Tutun area in the late Qing Dynasty and says: "The Yi people (a derogatory term for Tibetans by feudal rulers) placed huge jars or wooden barrels in the village. The rich people put wine in large copper bottles and planted more than ten bamboo poles inside. They sat on the ground and drank from each other. There was no toast or reward, and no dried fruits (cooked fish, meat, and dried fruits). Instead, they each had pork fat, beef, and "wooden birds" (fire-baked steamed buns). They would go home drunk and full."

Today, most villages in Badi Township, Upper Banxiang of Banshanmen, and Taipingqiao Township still preserve these customs. During festivals and celebrations, a large jar or wooden barrel filled with za wine (a type of wine made from lees) is placed in the middle of the dam. Several straws are then inserted into the jar, and everyone forms a large circle to dance the Guozhuang dance. When thirsty, each person takes turns drinking the za wine. Alternatively, one person holds a gourd filled with za wine and passes it around among the group. Alternatively, everyone sits cross-legged in a circle and passes a pot of za wine around, a practice known as "turning wine."

Sauerkraut buns and
huoshaozi (fire-stove-style steamed buns) are made with Danba's homemade sauerkraut and bacon as the filling, offering a delicious combination of sour and spicy flavors. Huoshaozi (fire-stove-style steamed buns) are made by kneading the dough into a round or oval flatbread. The dough is then placed on a hot baking sheet and baked once on both sides. The flatbread is then placed in the "zimao ash" (zimao ash) in the fire pit and baked until cooked. In some areas, huoshaozi (fire-stove-style steamed buns) are filled with sauerkraut and bacon, while in others, the baked flatbread is split in half and sprinkled with chili powder, a small amount of Sichuan peppercorns, finely ground garlic, and salt. Then, boiling cooking oil is poured over the chili powder before the flatbread is folded and served. The "Zhanggu Tunzhi (Brief)" records the Tibetans' preparation and consumption of huoshaozi (fire-stove-style steamed buns). Buckwheat flour and other ingredients are used as fillings for hualuo (noodles) with pickled mustard greens, called 'de mu niao' (fire-smoked buns). They are roasted over an ash fire until cooked. Men and women sit on the ground, break the buns into pieces with their hands, and sip tea from a few ou (small teacups).

Blood sausage
is called "Daxibubu" in Jiarong language. There are two types of blood sausage. One is pig blood sausage. To make it, dice fresh meat, a combination of fat and lean meat, and stir-fry a certain amount of cornmeal, buckwheat flour, and sesame seeds. Mix with ginger, garlic, salt, and other seasonings, and then mix with pig blood to form a thick paste. This paste is then stuffed into the large and small intestines, making sure not to overfill to prevent them from bursting. Afterward, the stuffed intestines are cooked in boiling water. During the cooking process, use a needle to periodically poke small holes in the intestines to release air and prevent localized bursting due to pressure buildup.

Another dish is sauerkraut blood sausage, which is made by sautéing fresh sauerkraut with bacon, then stuffing it with pig intestines and cooking. Eating blood sausage requires careful considerations. Cooked blood sausage has a strong, fishy smell and is unpalatable, so it's usually grilled until half brown. It's delicious and savory, with a long-lasting aftertaste. It's a specialty of the Danba Jiarong region.

Blood sausage is a tradition in most areas of Danba. Every year during the twelfth lunar month, when the pig is slaughtered for the New Year, every household makes blood sausage and sends it to relatives and friends. However, local customs vary. In Niejia Township and Bawang Township, sauerkraut blood sausage is the norm; in the mountainous and semi-mountainous areas of Taipingqiao and Banshanmen, pig blood sausage is popular; and in Dandong Township, beef blood sausage is the norm.

In addition to the aforementioned delicacies, Danba also boasts yogurt, sauerkraut noodles, sauerkraut with bacon, chicken stewed with matsutake mushrooms, buckwheat noodle soup, bacon slices, baked potatoes, and guoshuiqiao noodles. These delicacies converge on the tables of ordinary Danba residents, creating a unique rural flavor. To truly appreciate their flavor, you'll need to travel to Danba with your children and experience them in person in the Tibetan village.

Dejikanwa

——About a Jiarong girl's dream of a homestay

"My name is Deji, and it symbolizes happiness in Tibetan. I was born in Zhonglu Township, Danba County, known as the Eastern Women's Kingdom. My ancestors have lived in this mysterious land. Zhonglu is my root. Its Tibetan translation means "a place longed for by humans and gods." Anyone who has been to Zhonglu knows it's a paradise full of surprises and mysteries. Nestled on the banks of the Xiaojin River, whenever I introduce it to foreign friends, I say it's like a castle supported by a king's hand, a kingdom held high. Standing at the foot of the precipitous mountain, you can't imagine that above you lie the flat, peaceful, and tranquil mountains and rivers, and the easily defendable and difficult-to-attack terrain reflects the king's severity."

This is a text written by a girl named Deji, full of pride in being a Jiarong person and a deep attachment to her homeland. Thus, construction began on a bed and breakfast named "Deji Kangwa" in Jikayi Village, Zhonglu Township, on a terrace overlooking the entire village.

Deji means happiness, and Kangwa was once the palace of the last queen of the Eastern Women's Kingdom. Deji Kangwa - the palace of happiness, is where a Jiarong girl walks step by step towards her dream.

China-TravelNote Deji Kangwa B&B Manager——Deji

China-TravelNote Dejikangwa B&B renderings

Tips: Currently, Dejikangwa is under intense construction and is expected to be officially opened at the end of 2018 or early 2019.

Conclusion

I saw the beautiful scenery, flirted with the beautiful women, tasted the delicious food, and lived in Dejikangwa, which has a strong ethnic flavor.

As night fell and the moon climbed higher in the sky, we lit a bonfire. People raised their glasses, sang and danced, young men and women joined in the Guozhuang dance and drinking songs. "Please come to Jiarong, please come to Danba." Fiery red pomegranate blossoms filled the village, the fragrance of grains filled the air, bringing joy, joy. Raise your glasses, and auspicious clouds are coming from the sacred Mount Meldo. Auspicious clouds are coming.

Come to Jiarong, come to Danba. Millennia-old watchtowers stand tall above the clouds, and the scenery of Dangling is full of emotion. Jiarong girls are beautiful, and the Jiarong Tibetan village welcomes you. Welcome!

This is Danba, this is Jiarong. The stunning countryside is captivating, the abundant cuisine is satisfying, and the village boasts mellow wine and charming girls.

Danba Tibetan Village invites you to come: in every beautiful season, witness the mountains and rivers rising from the clouds, nourishing the earth, await spring planting, autumn harvests, summer plowing, and winter storage, listen to the ordinary oracles; cross the greatest distances to awaken dormant memories. Danba, on every night when you can hear the moonlight falling, will accompany you to get drunk together.