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The fame of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs is largely attributed to Shanghainese people. While Suzhou and Wuxi, the cities surrounding Yangcheng Lake, also enjoy hairy crabs, Shanghai's proximity, high demand, and high prices naturally made it a hub for these crabs. As a trading port, foreign merchants, after tasting them, were impressed by their delicious flavor and unforgettable taste. This spread the word, and Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs became renowned nationwide.
A photo circulated online recently, titled "In 1945, impoverished Shanghai families could only survive on Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs." The photo depicts a family with no proper table, a coal stove powered by an aluminum pot, and a broken bamboo basket nearby. The exposed left arm is covered in patches of clothing, yet there's a table full of hairy crabs, each weighing more than 3 taels! Some have offered an explanation: rice was expensive at the time, and the poor couldn't afford it, so they relied on hairy crabs.
This photo was actually taken by American photographer Walter Alufat and is from his album "Shanghai 1945." Therefore, the time period of the photo is correct. While we don't know the price of crab back then, we can roughly estimate from newspapers that one hairy crab could be exchanged for five kilograms of rice. A rough calculation suggests that the hairy crabs in the photo, converted into rice, would have fed a family of five for two months. While the true situation is unknown due to the passage of time, it's safe to say that hairy crabs were still unaffordable for poor families at the time.
As the saying goes, "Autumn winds blow, crabs' legs itch; chrysanthemums bloom, and the smell of crabs comes." September and October are the months when hairy crabs are roe-rich and oily. Fresh hairy crabs from all over the country are available, and the best are those from Yangcheng Lake. The fame of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs isn't due to their unique species; in fact, the scientific name for all hairy crabs, river crabs, and large hairy crabs is the Chinese mitten crab.
Yangcheng Lake has a subtropical monsoon climate with distinct seasons, abundant rainfall, abundant aquatic plants, and swarms of fish and shrimp, providing an ideal growth environment for hairy crabs. Furthermore, the water in Yangcheng Lake is slightly alkaline, making the crab meat taste even sweeter. The alkaline water environment means crabs don't need thick shells to resist the corrosion of acidic water. Therefore, Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs have relatively thin shells, and the nutrients originally used to grow the shells are used to grow the crab meat. Alkaline water also makes crabs less susceptible to disease, so generally, Yangcheng Lake crabs are rarely treated with medication during their farming process. However, many people believe that wild crabs are tastier, but this is actually a misunderstanding. Because crabs are scavengers, wild crabs often contain a large number of parasites, which are harmful to the body.
Four characteristics of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs:
Green Back
The shell of Yangcheng Lake hairy crab is thin and blue-gray in color.
White belly
65% of the bottom of Yangcheng Lake is hard and there is less silt, so the lake belly is whiter and has no spots.
Yellow Hair
The water of Yangcheng Lake is clear and rich in minerals. The hairs on the crab legs are long and yellow, each one standing straight. Most of the hairless crabs are soft and fatless.
Golden Claw
The four claws of the hairy crab are strong and powerful. Even when placed on smooth glass, it can stand with its head held high and its claws pointing to the sky.
The hairy crab season typically runs from late September to mid-December. Because Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs are renowned for their high demand, the earlier you purchase, the more likely you are to get authentic hairy crabs. The 2018 Yangcheng Lake hairy crab season begins on September 22nd, coinciding with the Mid-Autumn Festival holiday. Those who can afford it recommend visiting Yangcheng Lake directly to sample the freshly caught, cooked, and eaten hairy crabs. Each bite is filled with a delicious sweetness, while you can also enjoy the beautiful scenery of Yangcheng Lake.
A special reminder: Since ancient times, there's been a saying about eating crabs: "Nine females, ten males." In September, female crabs are laden with eggs, their roe plump, and therefore best eaten. In October, female crabs spawn, while male crabs have their gonads fully developed, appearing plump and yellowish-white. Male crabs are best eaten. Distinguishing the sex of crabs is simple: simply turn the crab over and look at its belly button. A triangular shape indicates a male, while a round one indicates a female.
Hairy crabs molt approximately 6-7 times throughout their lifespan, from hatchling to mature. The best crabs are those that have molted 15 times and weigh at least 6 liang (male) or 5 liang (female) during the current season. Even in the best environment and with the best feed, such crabs are still rare, making them extremely expensive. When choosing hairy crabs, consider the following three criteria:
First look at the back
Whether it is muddy green or gray-green, it should be shiny! You can wipe it dry with a napkin to see if there is any baldness. The bad crab will look dull and lifeless
.
Weigh the crab to see if it is heavy, touch its eyes and claws to see if it is active, but be careful not to touch the claws.
That is to say, the width of the gap under the crab shell. The wider it is, the fatter the crab is.
Zhang Dai, a Qing Dynasty gourmet, was considered the best crab eater. He believed that "the only food that has all five flavors without salt or vinegar is crab."
Crabs are meant to be eaten fresh, and steaming is the best way to preserve their flavor. Before steaming, remember to clean the crab thoroughly. If you're at home, place it in clean water for ten minutes to remove any sediment. Then, steam it directly in clean water for about 5-10 minutes. When steaming, tie the crab to prevent its legs from falling off and the roe from leaking. When shelling raw crabs, blanch them in boiling water for three minutes to make the meat easier to remove and avoid wasting.
After a long process of picking crabs and steaming them, it is finally time to eat them. However, eating crabs is actually a technical job. If you want to eat them elegantly, you must know a few tricks.
first step
First, cut off the crab's eight legs and two claws. This is because the meat will shrink and separate from the shell after it cools down, making it easier to poke out, so you can eat it last.
Step 2
Open the crab shell and peel off the crab intestines, which are the dirtiest part and cannot be eaten. Then eat the crab shell first, and use a spoon to dig out the crab stomach under the crab mouth. This part cannot be eaten and should be thrown away. Use a spoon to dig out the rest and eat it all.
Step 3
After eating the crab shell, remove the crab gills and split the crab body in two. The crab roe can be broken out and eaten directly, and the remaining delicious crab meat can be enjoyed directly after removing the black part.
Step 4
Finally, the crab legs can be split in two along the joints, using the tips of the crab to poke out the crab meat. The crab claws can be divided into three sections. The first two sections can be cut directly through the crab shell and the meat can be scooped out with a spoon. The trick to the last claw is to cut open both sides and then manually bend the two claws in opposite directions to completely separate the shell.
Legend has it that thousands of years ago, a ferocious-looking beetle with two claws and eight legs roamed the rivers and lakes. It not only ate rice but also used its claws to injure people, earning it the nickname "the man-crushing insect." Later, when Dayu traveled south to control floods, he sent the warrior Ba Jie to oversee the construction. The infestation of man-crushing insects severely hampered the project. Ba Jie devised a plan: he dug a ditch around the city walls and filled it with boiling water. The man-crushing insects would rush in and fall into the ditch, scalding to death. The scalded man-crushing insects glowed red and emitted a delicious, alluring aroma. Curious, Ba Jie cracked open their shells, and upon smelling the aroma, he bravely took a bite. The flavor was incredibly delicious, surpassing anything else. Thus, the once-dreaded pest suddenly became a household delicacy. To express gratitude for Ba Jie's pioneering spirit, they added the character for "insect" (jie) under the character for "jie" (jie) and called the man-crushing insect "crab," meaning that Ba Jie had conquered the man-crushing insect and was the world's greatest crab-eater.
Annual hairy crab production typically falls below 2,000 tons, yet 20,000 tons of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs are consumed nationwide each year. Unsurprisingly, over 90% of these are "bathed crabs" or "private label crabs." For authentic hairy crabs, there are two options: buy from a reputable brand or go directly to the farms and eat from trusted farmers.
This year, China-TravelNote has a special crab-eating route. Not only can you personally take a boat trip on Yangcheng Lake and catch your first net of hairy crabs, but you can also go to Yuantouzhu to watch the annual fireworks display.
1. Crabs are cold in nature, so they can easily cause cold hands and feet. People with weak spleen and stomach should not eat them. Crab paste and roe are high in cholesterol, so those with high blood pressure or obesity should not eat them in large quantities.
2. It is best not to eat dead crabs. When crabs die, they will secrete a toxic substance called amine, which accelerates the corruption of crab meat. Always eat fresh crabs.
3. You can eat crabs with vinegar and ginger, which can not only dispel cold and replenish qi, but also have a certain disinfection and sterilization effect. Eating crab meat with vinegar can enhance the freshness.
Tips: Ingredients: Light soy sauce (also known as fresh soy sauce), aged vinegar, sugar, sliced ginger, and chopped green onions. Instructions: First, pour the light soy sauce into a pot and bring to a simmer. Add the aged vinegar, ginger, and chopped green onions. When the soy sauce is boiling, add the sugar and stir continuously. Once the sugar is completely dissolved, strain and transfer to a container to create the crab vinegar.
Modern dining tables are increasingly diverse, offering access to delicacies from around the world without leaving home. However, the joy we derive from food is diminishing. Strong flavors numb our palates, like an addiction, and only more stimulating flavors can appease our increasingly discerning appetites. Yet, sometimes we yearn for the flavors of childhood, where simple, seasonal ingredients can steam to create unforgettable flavors. The annual Yangcheng Lake hairy crab harvest, enjoyed seasonally, allows us to rediscover our sense of taste and authenticity. If you're looking to experience the blissful taste of hairy crab for the first time, don't miss this opportunity!
