Live Your Best Lives
Because of work, I went to the island more than a hundred times in 2019. When it wasn't work, I would just go there for a nap, and at night I would go with friends to explore restaurants and have a free meal... So I think I know Gulangyu pretty well.
I took a lot of fresh and good photos this year and discovered many new places that are meaningful and good for photographing. I would like to share them with you here. I hope that friends who read this guide will also have the opportunity to get the hidden unique charm of Gulangyu Island.
I won’t elaborate on how to buy tickets to the island here. For details, please refer to the guide I wrote before↓↓↓
How to buy tickets? → How to buy ferry tickets to Gulangyu Island in Xiamen? Here's a practical guide to Gulangyu Island.
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According to my own understanding, I made a division map and divided Gulangyu into four parts: ABCD. The island looks small on the map, but it is almost impossible to check in all the attractions in one day.
So everyone should try to choose the attractions they most want to visit and choose the route that suits them best according to this map.
Route ①: C (Neicuoao Island) → A → B (Sanqiutian Island)
Route ②: B (Sanqiutian Island) → A → B (Sanqiutian Island)
A: The most crowded, with the best villas and the most major attractions, it is a must-see for first-time visitors to the island
This was the area where the wealthy people of Gulangyu lived in the old days.
Recommended check-in spots: Longtou Road, Shuzhuang Garden (Piano Museum), Catholic Church & Concord Chapel, Trinity Church, Fanpo Building, Haitian Temple, Huang Rongyuan Hall, Sunlight Rock, Huang Family Garden, Jingulou, Lijiazhuang, Liao Family Villa (Lin Yutang's former residence), Lin's Mansion, Ronggu Villa, the former site of the Great Northern Telegraph in Denmark, Silu Mansion, Guanhai Garden, the former site of the Pok Oi Hospital, Dadeji Beach, and Gangzaihou Beach
B: The flow of people is second only to A, and there are many hidden photo spots and small attractions
Recommended check-in spots: The most beautiful corner, the boat house, the HSBC Residence, the HSBC staff quarters, Moonlight Rock, Guancai Tower, Chuncao Hall, Yizu Villa, Lim Boon Keng's former residence, the Public Trial Hall, and the Bagua Tower (Organ Museum).
C: There are few people, and the attractions are small but interesting.
This is the area where civilians used to live on Gulangyu Island.
Recommended check-in spots: Gulangyu Academy of Fine Arts, Zhongde Palace, Xiyuan Road, Anxian Hall, Yin Chengzong's Residence, Pinyin Trail, Gulang Stone, Christian Church Cemetery, Meihua Beach
D: Gulangyu Island residents' backyard, a good place for morning jogging, almost no tourists, and the attractions can be ignored
Because this place is quite remote, I don’t recommend you to go here if you are on a day trip to Gulangyu Island.
My colleague sitting next to me is a native of Gulangyu Island. She grew up in Neicuo'ao, the area at the junction of Districts C and B. Even now, when people mention Gulangyu, they subconsciously think of it as being inhabited by the wealthy. This isn't the case; there are certainly areas for the common people here—Neicuo'ao. To get from District C to District B, you have to climb a mountain. To make life easier for local residents, Longshan Cave and Bishan Cave were built: the former for boat trips, the latter for grocery shopping.
Tips:
Recommended route: Former US Consulate → Most Beautiful Corner → Qingtian Wall → Guxin Road Boathouse → HSBC Residence → HSBC Staff Quarters → Bishan Road → Moonlight Rock → Chuncaotang → Guancai Tower → Yizu Villa or Lim Boon Keng's Former Residence → Public Trial Hall → Second Beautiful Corner → Trinity Church → International Buildings → Longtou Road
I've never been fond of this place because it's been hyped up so much. There are always long lines here, and during peak season, the background is filled with people, which is not very pretty. During the pandemic, I happened to be on the island and there were no people around, so I took a couple of random photos. Gulangyu has a lot of corners, so I don't recommend waiting in line to take photos when it's crowded.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 42 Guxin Road
Walk up the slope on the right side of the most beautiful corner for two minutes and you will see this wall. As a Jay fan, you must not miss it.
Tips:
📍Address: Sanming Road (go straight on the right fork at the most beautiful corner)
There are many alleys crisscrossing Gulangyu Island, and due to the terrain, there are many triangular parts, thus this special form of building came into being.
This building was built around the 1910s. Its owner, Huang Da Pi, was a doctor at Gulangyu Rescue Hospital at the time. The land he owned was sandwiched between the intersection of three roads, which made the construction of the house more difficult.
He invited his dean, the American-Dutch John Yu, to design it. John Yu, who had studied design, had of course designed other works before, such as the Bagua Building.
Such complex terrain inspired his creativity and he designed this romantic dock-style villa.
Tips:
There are quite a lot of people taking pictures here, but standing on the flower bed and taking pictures downwards is a very good angle to avoid the crowds.
📍Address: No. 48 Guxin Road (stop immediately after taking photos of the Sunny Wall, turn back and take the small road on the right to see it)
Standing next to the boathouse and looking sideways, you can see a huge natural rock cliff. If you look closely, you can see densely packed small characters carved into the rock wall. The inscription reads "Record of the Revitalization of Gulangyu Sanhe Palace." Climbing the steps, you can see the old villa built on the cliff, which was built in 1876.
HSBC was founded in 1864 and established a branch in Xiamen in 1873. It was the first British-owned trade and financial institution in China to enter Xiamen, even 30 years earlier than the Chinese "Bank of Qing".
Occupying such a precious location, one can have a glimpse of the entire sea area from the window, which shows the momentum and status of the British who dominated Gulangyu Island at that time.
Now it is used as a coffee and afternoon tea shop, a great place to escape the summer heat.
Go straight ahead along the path and you will reach the HSBC staff dormitory.
The best time to take photos here is at dusk. The warm orange light sneaks in through the gaps in the porch, and there is a large lawn at the door, which is really comfortable.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 57 Guxin Road
A place recommended by locals, this is the second highest viewing platform on Gulangyu Island after Sunlight Rock. It's free and you can lie down in the sun and watch the sunset. The best time to go here is before sunset around 5 or 6 pm.
Across the street is Xiamen Island.
Tips:
📍Address: Near Bishan Park, Bishan Road
The original owner of this building was Xu Chuncao, one of the earliest members of the Tongmenghui in Xiamen and later elected president of the Xiamen Architects' Guild. This villa is one of the few on Gulangyu Island where descendants continue to live and meticulously maintain it. The large courtyard at the entrance is filled with a variety of flowers and features a large wooden sign that reads "Fragrant Spring Grass," brimming with life and vitality.
The villa next to Chuncao Tower, also owned by the same owner, is now used as a B&B, hence its name, "Fragrant Spring Grass." Like most villas on Gulangyu Island, it appears ordinary from the outside, but its interior is a world of its own. Nestled halfway up the mountain, you can see the sunset from the window.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 17, Bishan Road
This authentic Dutch-style villa was owned by an anonymous Dutch engineer who left many works on Gulangyu Island. After arriving in Xiamen, the engineer chose this prime location for himself and personally designed the villa, which was built by his neighbor Xu Chuncao's company.
I previously wrote a guide explaining that this building earned its name because its roof resembles a coffin, but some of my friends disputed this. Later, after digging through numerous historical records, I came up with this explanation: "No matter from which angle you look at it, the coffin image is so strongly symbolic that the building acquired its nicknames from the moment it was completed: Bridal Sedan and Coffin Building. However, because the former couldn't compete with its coffin-like shape, the name stuck to this day."
In local folklore, the "coffin building" isn't considered unlucky. After all, it symbolizes meeting an official and gaining wealth. However, the name isn't quite elegant in writing, so scholars adopted the homophonic name "Guan Cai Lou." This building, nestled high in a corner of a mountain, faces the sea, and from the windows, one can gaze upon the rosy clouds and the sea, earning its name.
The appearance is also unique, with distinctive spiral Roman columns and corner columns ingeniously stacked with whole pieces of granite, making the entire corner rounded and smooth.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 6 Bishan Road
There is a long and narrow staircase on the left side facing the Guancai Tower. You can see the villa by walking down the stairs.
As one of the ten largest villas on Gulangyu Island, its grandeur is evident from the porch alone. However, it is not open to the public, so one can only peek inside through the iron gate.
The original owner of this villa was the Vietnamese-French businessman Xu Xian. The owner's hobbies influenced the style of his villa. For example, this one has a unique French neoclassical style, and the decoration of the front yard has a strong Baroque style.
Like many luxury homes of Chinese businessmen on Gulangyu Island, even in European-style courtyards, Chinese-style stacked stones and classical courtyards are used as embellishments.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 9 Bishan Road
Going down the slope on the right side of Guancai Tower is the former residence of Lim Boon Keng, the first president of Xiamen University. This building was where Lim Boon Keng lived with his wife when he was president.
After Lim Boon Keng passed away, he donated this villa to Xiamen University. It is probably occupied by retired faculty and staff now, and it is not open to the public.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 5 Bishan Road (If you search directly on Baidu Maps, you will find No. 5 Gushan Road, which is not the correct location)
In 1902, Gulangyu Island officially became an international concession. Similar to the Shanghai International Settlement's joint trial hall, Gulangyu also established a public trial hall, stipulating that "all cases involving foreigners, no matter how minor, will be heard by the consul himself or his deputies in conjunction with the court officials." Upon entering, a black sign on the left shows a photograph of a Chinese man with a long braid kneeling on the ground, being interrogated by a group of foreigners. Clearly, this is another testament to the humiliation suffered by a weak and impoverished China at the time.
The corner in front of the Public Trial Hall is particularly good for photographing because there are few people around, and it can be used as an alternative to the most beautiful corner.
Tips:
Recommended route: Gulangyu Academy of Fine Arts → Xiyuan Road → Anxian Hall → Jishan Road → Pinyin Trail → Gulang Rock → Ganghouzi Beach → Shuzhuang Garden → International Architecture Complex → Longtou Road
This is the Gulangyu campus of the Xiamen Academy of Arts and Crafts, Fuzhou University. After the school relocated in 2010, it lay unused for eight years. It's now undergoing renovations and is being used as a shared art space. Exhibitions are occasionally held there, and a small area is currently open to the public.
Because the area inside is not open to the public yet, it is overgrown with weeds, giving it a dilapidated and desolate beauty. The classrooms and auditorium are still the same as before, as if you can see the scene here decades ago.
It has an exquisite shape and skylights with little angels hanging all around.
Tips:
If you happen to come across a topic you are interested in, you can register at the door and go in to visit.
📍Address: No. 151, Kangtai Road
This path is lined with bougainvillea and firecracker flowers, which makes it very nice to take pictures.
Tips:
📍Address: Facing the Four Seasons Spring Hotel, on the narrow path on the right
If you continue along the path, you'll come across Anxian Hall, the first valuable, protected building in the area. Its founders, managers, and donors were American Seventh-day Adventist missionaries John Allen and his wife, and it was originally a place of worship for the Seventh-day Adventist Church.
In front of the Anxian Hall is the Monte Cristo Cemetery, where Lu Gangzhang, a pioneer of the Chinese phonetic writing movement, is buried. To commemorate him, the path from the cemetery to the seaside has been renovated into a "Pinyin Road," with the Chinese phonetic alphabet engraved on the stone path.
A spacious stone villa nestled on Jimu Mountain is the former residence of renowned Chinese musician, pianist, and composer Yin Chengzong. It was here that he lived and practiced piano in his youth, and at the age of nine, he held his "Young Yin Chengzong Solo Concert" here.
Tips:
It is currently inhabited and maintained, and is not open to the public.
📍Address: No. 16 Jishan Road
There are so many great buildings in this area that I won’t recommend a specific route here, just exploring freely is the best.
This eye-catching red roof can almost be regarded as the landmark of Gulangyu Island. It is a large villa invested and built by Lin Heshou, a wealthy Taiwanese businessman and Lin Erjia's cousin in 1907. The Organ Museum is located in the Bagua Tower of Gulangyu Island.
Tips:
Ticket price: 15 yuan
📍Address: No. 43 Guxin Road
This building is located near Longtou Road, the most prosperous street on Gulangyu Island, with the famous Sunlight Rock behind it. The unique geographical location shows the status of the owner. This is the most famous private mansion on the island, Huang Family Garden, owned by Huang Yizhu, an Indonesian Chinese tycoon.
There are three buildings in the garden, the middle building is the residence of Huang Yi. After 1949, Huang Family Garden became the State Guesthouse of Xiamen, and the middle building became the residence of domestic and foreign heads of state and dignitaries including Deng Xiaoping, Deng Yingchao, and Nixon.
Tips:
Currently, one of the buildings is used as a hotel, named "Zhongdeji Holiday Villa", where you can also have afternoon tea.
📍Address: No. 25 Huangyan Road
In a small alley on Zhangzhou Road, Gulangyu Island, beneath an ancient banyan tree stands a remarkably old, quaint English-style villa. This was the bridal chamber of the renowned writer Lin Yutang at his 1919 wedding, and the home of his wife, Liao Cuifeng. It's also one of the oldest villas on Gulangyu Island. Currently, the villa has changed hands and is no longer owned by the Liao family. It's currently uninhabited, overgrown with weeds, and in a state of disrepair.
The Liao family was one of Gulangyu's prominent families in the past, having made their fortune in Southeast Asia and settled on the island. Speaking of Gulangyu's Liao-style families, it's worth mentioning that Zhong Nanshan and Yin Chengzong both have connections to the Gulangyu Liao family. Lin Yutang married Liao Cuifeng, a cousin of Yin Chengzong's mother, while Zhong Nanshan's cousin married Yin Chengzong's father.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 44 Zhangzhou Road
Walking into the alley on the right side of the path in the picture is Lin Yutang's former residence. Lijiazhuang was the villa of timber tycoon Li Qingquan, and is now used as a souvenir shop.
If you pass by, be sure to go up to the top of the building to take a look. If you don’t go to Sunlight Rock, this is also a very good viewing platform.
It was bought by Huang Cimin, a Chinese living in the Philippines, as a residence in 1924. Its distinctive feature is the two "golden melons" on the roof, which makes it unique among the more than 1,000 villas on Gulangyu Island.
Tips:
Currently not open to the public
📍Address: No. 99 Quanzhou Road
Haitiantang was built by Filipino Chinese expatriates Huang Xiuliang and Huang Nianyi. The site was originally occupied by the Xiamen Club, built by Westerners. The Huangs purchased the property and renovated it. This is the only villa complex on Gulangyu Island that is symmetrically arranged along the central axis.
The most exquisite thing is the carvings on the eaves, which show the integration of Nanyang style and Chinese classical style.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 38 Fujian Road
Ticket price: 88 yuan
Concord Chapel is the earliest church on Gulangyu Island. It was built in 1863 and is also the first Western religious building on Gulangyu Island.
A hundred years ago, Lin Yutang and his wife Liao Cuifeng held their Western-style wedding here, and now it has become a popular place for taking wedding photos.
This Catholic church is a classic example of Gothic architecture. Designed by a Spanish architect, it is the only Gothic Catholic church in Xiamen. Its unique castle-like style is a tribute to the King Jesus, and the church is also known as the Church of the King Jesus. The church is dominated by Gothic spires, pointed arches, and pointed windows. Even the facade decorations, door lattices, and openwork parapets are pointed.
Tips:
The main entrance of the cathedral is often closed by some photography organizations, but you can go in from the side path.
📍Address: No. 34 Lujiao Road
The original owner of this villa was Li Qingquan, the same owner as the Lijiazhuang villa above. As a timber tycoon, the entire interior of the villa is made of single-piece golden nanmu wood, including tables, chairs, and staircases and floors. However, this villa is currently closed to the public and is privately owned.
The original owner was a subordinate of Mr. Chiang Kai-shek of the Kuomintang. I was fortunate enough to get in and take a look. The housekeeper told me that Chiang Kai-shek had stayed here for a while before leaving the mainland, and the bed that Chiang Kai-shek slept on is now displayed in the house.
Last year, I was lucky enough to meet the crew of "A Burner of Incense" filming here, and I almost met Eddie Peng!
This is my favorite beach in the entire Gulangyu Island.
Compared with other beaches, there are fewer tourists here and the sea water is very clean. It overlooks the Yanwu Bridge and Gemini Island on the opposite side of Xiamen Island.
There is also a small wooden house on the beach for local islanders to use when they go out to swim and wash.
Tips:
📍Address: No. 3-2 Zhangzhou Road
If this is your first time visiting Gulangyu Island, I highly recommend this attraction.
This place was built by Taiwanese businessman Lin Erjia, who was very poetic and had the same ambition as Tao Yuanming. Therefore, the entire garden is full of mountains and hidden seas, and it has captured the essence of Chinese garden structure.
The piano museum donated by Mr. Hu Youyi is also on display here, so this attraction is quite cost-effective.
After much deliberation, I decided to include Sunlight Rock. In 2020, the scenic spot released a preferential policy for Xiamen residents, with ticket prices only 20 yuan until June. With fewer tourists now, it's a great place for local photography enthusiasts to visit.
I highly recommend it during peak tourist season! It's incredibly hot in the summer, and the top observation deck only holds about a dozen people. The line up at the bottom takes at least half an hour, and the 60 yuan ticket price isn't great value for money. Wouldn't it be better to save that time to explore other fun, free places?
(photo by Nohara-kun)
I have previously recommended Shen’s Rice Noodle Rolls, Ye’s Mochi, and the unknown fish ball shop in front of Lijiazhuang. This time, I would like to recommend some new small shops.
My Gulangyu native colleague highly recommended it, saying it's a time-honored shop where locals have been eating since childhood. Now it's only 5 yuan each, a small piece with a crispy exterior and a filling of curried pork and chopped green onions.
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Long-time islanders recommend the Longtou Fish Ball Shop, which has remained unchanged for nearly 40 years, making fresh fish daily and making handmade shark balls with no additives. During the pandemic, when all other stores were closed, this shop was one of the first to open.
For me, Gulangyu is a place where I can constantly discover surprises. The stories that have happened behind those old villas hidden behind the lush vines are the most worth exploring.
