Live Your Best Lives
I watched "Wolf Totem" in 2015, and I still remember the film's sense of historical dislocation. I saw the grasslands' "yesterday": bustling towns of educated youth, people wearing homespun clothing and shouting labor songs; I saw the grasslands' "past": endless grasslands, the flowing backs of Mongolian robes, and horses galloping in the distance. And of course, there were the wolves, wild and divine, their eyes piercing time and reaching into eternity...
(Photo by tourists@Chongjinpo Boat Song)
In the past, Ulagai was a land of nomads. In 1170, nine-year-old Temujin stopped by the banks of the Ulagai River and saw a holy spring gurgling among the green grass...
Yesterday, educated youth spent their youth here. In 1969, the 51st Production and Construction Regiment was stationed here, and the Ulagai Pasture was built.
Today, this is the place I long for—the Ulagai River Gol and its tributary, the Seyeleji Gol, flow quietly through this land...
(Image by @阿北)
Ulagai is located in the northeast of Xilingol Grassland, extending gently on the western foot of Arshan Mountain. It is a typical meadow grassland.
Two major rivers, the Ulagai Gol and the Seyeleji Gol, flow from north to south, emptying into the lower Ulagai Basin in the south. The main stream, the Ulagai Gol, is the longest inland river in Inner Mongolia, originating in the Bogeda Mountains of the Greater Khingan Range and drying up at Daote Nur.
Ulagai has a mild spring and beautiful summer. July to August is the wet season in Ulagai. The humid weather nourishes the lush grass, which is also the best time to drive deep into the grassland.
(Photo by tourists@小野)
Tips:
The Ulagai region is bordered by the S303 to the north and the S101 to the south. These two provincial roads are wide and sparsely populated, resulting in excellent driving conditions. Cement roads have been paved within the Ulagai region for scenic development, and non-main roads are crossroads. Further into the grasslands requires careful consideration of the vehicle's specific conditions.
(Still from the film "Wolf Totem")
The exploration of history begins at Khan Mountain. Though a man-made structure, Khan Mountain, built on Guanyin Mountain, is magnificent, blending naturally with the undulating grasslands. The 50-meter-tall statues of Genghis Khan and Kublai Khan are visible from afar, and even more stunning when viewed up close.
(Photo by tourists@小野)
Upon entering the scenic area, the Canglang Road leads all the way to Khan Mountain. The two statues at the head of the road represent the Canglang and the White Deer, ancestors of Genghis Khan, followed by successive emperors and the Golden Family (for more information on the Golden Family, see Tips). Legend has it that after marrying, the Canglang and the White Deer tribes left their homeland along the Ergun River in search of more abundant pastures, bypassing the Tengjisi River, now Hulun Lake, and arriving on the present-day Mongolian grasslands.
(Pictures from the Internet)
The Mongol army formations guarding Khan Mountain resemble the Terracotta Army. While walking the Canglang Road requires considerable leg strength, you don't need to walk all the way to the foot of Khan Mountain; you can still experience the stunning view from a distance.
The Golden Family refers to the direct descendants of Genghis Khan's royal family, namely the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty royal family with the surname Bao of the Qiyuan tribe of Mongolia.
The Golden Family possessed a broad mind like the steppes, a spirit that has been passed down to this day and is recognized today in eight words: sincerity, steadiness, innovation, and dedication. Among the descendants of Genghis Khan, founder of the Yuan Dynasty, the Bao surname was the earliest and most numerous, with approximately 3.8 million Mongolians worldwide carrying the surname.
Tips:
Admission: Free
Opening hours: All day
Reference play time: 1 hour
Address: West of Holingol City, East Ujimqin Banner, Xilingol League, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region
The Bulin Temple is the most important religious sacrificial site in Ulagai, with a history of nearly four hundred years. It was first built in the 11th year of Emperor Kangxi's reign, and was later renovated and expanded to its current size.
(Photo by @Zhuangshangjiuye)
Driving across the grasslands, we suddenly encountered a cluster of brick-red buildings, a feeling of desolation. At its peak, the temple boasted over 170 monks. Prayer flags fluttered in the wind as the wind blew across the grasslands, and I wondered what kind of perseverance in faith there once was.
(Pictures from the Internet)
Taking a detour to the back wall of the temple, you will see the overgrown grass and the solemn temple wall, which creates a contrast between the past and the present and is a great spot for taking photos.
(Photo by tourists@Emotional Single Cell)
The filming location for Wolf Totem, also known as Boliyan Spring, is a magical natural, high-quality mineral spring gushing from the depths of the grasslands. It also embodies a beautiful grassland love story, which ties together our Ulagai itinerary.
Legend has it that in 1170 AD, Genghis Khan's father and his son were traveling to the banks of the Ulagai River to get engaged to one of his mother's tribes, the Hongjila tribe. It was a scorching hot day, and both father and son were extremely thirsty. Suddenly, Temujin heard the gurgling sound of a spring. Following the sound, he discovered a clear spring gurgling out.
His father Yesugei said: "This spring is holy and clear, sweet and pleasant, with the fragrance of aged wine. Temujin, you will definitely meet a gentle, kind and beautiful girl."
As expected, the father and son met Teshetsen, a nobleman of the Hongjila tribe, on the way and agreed to betroth his daughter, Borte, to Temujin. Borte followed Temujin in his battles among the various Mongol tribes, playing an important role in the unification of the Mongol tribes.
Tips:
Tickets: Bulin Temple free; Bulin Spring 40 yuan
Opening hours: 10:00-17:00
Reference play time: 1 hour
Address: 11 kilometers north of Bayinghushuo Town, Ulagai Management District, Xilingol League
"Aobao" means "pile." Early Mongolian tribes worshipped heaven and earth. Since heaven and earth were intangible, people used aobao as a symbol. They offered sacrifices and circumambulated the aobao, praying for favorable weather, thriving herds, and peace and prosperity for the country and its people.
(Pictures from the Internet)
Gulabsaihan Oboo is an important sacrificial site in Ujumchin Left Banner. Every year on the 25th day of the fifth lunar month, people from Xing'an League, Tongliao, East Uju, and even Mongolia come here to offer sacrifices. Therefore, it is also called the "International Oboo."
If you happen to catch a nomadic festival, you can catch a small Naadam. In addition to chanting scriptures and offering sacrifices, the nomads also hold competitions in the Mongolian Three Arts (horse racing, archery, and wrestling), which is very lively.
Even if you don't catch up, you can still circle the Aobao three times in a clockwise direction to pray for a smooth journey. However, be careful not to use the stones of the Aobao or climb the Aobao without permission, as these are taboos.
Address: Near Hesigeula Ranch
(Still from the film "Wolf Totem")
Bingtuan Town is a complex of buildings built specifically for the filming of Wolf Totem. The mud houses of educated youth, the educated youth canteen, the old cinema, the mottled brick walls, the iron windows and doors... The moment you step into the town, the large Mao-style characters "Serve the People" come into view, and you're instantly transported back to history.
(Photo by tourists@stdolly)
In 1969, the Sixth Division of the Inner Mongolia Production and Construction Corps of the Beijing Military Region was established in the Ulagai region. This was a period of internal and external troubles. To consolidate national defense, build the frontier, and find employment, countless young and strong people were transported from the cities, beginning a "tight" but unforgettable life.
(Photo by tourists@stdolly)
(Photo by @touristsstdolly)
The small town of Bingtuan is a perfect place for capturing nostalgic photos. An enameled water tank on a brick bed, an old-fashioned bicycle leaning against a wall, are both incredibly realistic. Traversing the bumpy dirt roads, lifting the coarse cloth door curtain, and boarding the faded red bus, one feels like a member of the Bingtuan youth.
{tips}
Ticket price: 10 yuan
Opening hours: 10:00-17:00
Reference play time: 1 hour
Address: Halagetu Farm, Ulagai Administrative District, Xilingol League
{/tips}
The Mongolian people have an old proverb: "Set up yurts in rocky places and graze sheep where there are wolves." This is very different from the understanding of wolves in agriculture. On the grassland, wolves are the guardians of the grassland and friends of herders. Wolves will only carry away sick sheep to keep the flock clean.
(Pictures from the Internet)
After the filming of Wolf Totem was completed, the Ulagai Mazong Mountain Wolf Park (Hesige Ula Wildlife Park) was built. Under the rugged stone formations of Mazong Mountain, you can see nearly seventy wolves. Some of them are descendants of the Wolf Totem crew, and some are from wildlife rescue.
Tips:
Ticket price: 50 yuan
Address: Mazong Mountain is located 26 kilometers northeast of Hesigewula Ranch
(Still from the film "Wolf Totem")
Ulagai Gol is the largest inland river in Inner Mongolia. It nourishes the land and water of Ulagai and forms the most winding river section at Jiuquwan.
(Photography by tourists@清风问山2)
We can abandon the electric car, accompanied by the gentle breeze, breathe in the rich fragrance of grass, and slowly walk up the grass hill for viewing. A quiet picture stretches out in the distance. Hold your breath and listen to the gurgling sound of water hidden under the bushes.
(Photo by tourists@小野)
It is recommended to go directly to Observation Deck No. 1. The scenery of Jiuqu Bay is extremely unique. Only in the grassland area, with a pure green background, can you get such a shocking and tranquil experience.
Tips:
Ticket price: 30 yuan
Opening hours: 10:00-17:00
Reference play time: 1 hour
Address: Wuzhumuqin Banner, East League, Xilin Gol City, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region
If you are a true river lover, heading north, you will find the Nine Bends of the Ergun River extremely beautiful, accompanied by the unique vegetation scenery of the wetlands.
The Peony Valley is located in the Hesgeula Pasture. Although it is called a valley, it is actually just a depression in the gentle hills. From mid-to-late June to early July every year, white peonies bloom in groups here during the 15-day flowering period.
(Photography by tourists@塞外夫子)
Follow the creaking wooden plank road, climb over one or two hills, and you will come across this paradise. All you can see are the delicate petals and exquisite stamens of peonies.
(Pictures from the Internet)
Lying among the peonies, looking around to see no one, watching a cloud passing leisurely overhead, I feel extremely comfortable.
Tips:
Ticket price: 25 yuan
Opening hours: 7:00-16:00
Recommended play time: 1 hour (mid-June to early July each year)
Address: 26 kilometers north of Hesige Ula Pasture, East Ujimqin Banner
Ulagai Grassland offers mature grassland accommodation, but to get a perfect yurt experience, you can also pay attention to these points.
(Pictures from the Internet)
Your stay begins with a warm welcome ceremony, where the host offers a Hada (Hada) and dismounting wine, paying respect to heaven, earth, and ancestors. You can also enjoy a horseback ride across the grass. Commercial ranches often offer a comprehensive recreational experience.
If your goal is to escape commercialism, you'll need to find genuine herders. On the Ulagai grasslands, there are many hospitable herders who wake up next to their sheepfolds and start the day with hot milk tea.
With a heart that pays attention to history, and looking at the grassland's past and present, you will find that the beauty of Ulagai is not only the beauty of the scenery, but also the length of history that has converged to this day, just like the long Ulagai River.
(Photo by tourists@stdolly)
Today's grasslands are facing threats of degradation, desertification and salinization, but the people on the grasslands are not indifferent: through balanced nomadism and mutual assistance in production and life, the people of Ulagai are working hard to maintain the vitality of the grasslands.
The history that has been connected to this day is not a history of confrontation, nor is it a history of struggle and tearing between nomadic civilization and agricultural civilization, but a history of symbiosis.
(Photo by tourists@stdolly)
Just as the theme of "Wolf Totem", in the paradise grassland Ulagai, only by making friends with nature and embracing it can we understand its beauty.
Tips:
The best time to visit the Ulagai Grassland is spring and summer. The summer period from July to September is the wet period of the grassland, when the grass is at its best throughout the year.
Because the grassland has a large temperature difference and the rainfall is unpredictable, you must be fully prepared before coming to Ulagai.
On the grasslands, you can gallop on horseback and experience the carefree nomadic life firsthand, or sit quietly and watch the breathtaking sunrise and sunset. The grasslands also offer vast uninhabited areas, perfect for roaming in off-road vehicles. Spend a leisurely afternoon enjoying the slow pace of the grasslands, the brilliant midnight sky, and search for the Milky Way you lost in your youth. Hike across the grasslands, measuring the verdant grass beneath your feet, and rediscovering so much lost beauty in this fleeting journey through the grasslands.
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