Live Your Best Lives
Working is exhausting, and all I want is a vacation. One day, I asked a friend where to go for summer vacation. The answer: Hulunbuir in Inner Mongolia, Changbai Mountain in Jilin, or Libo in Guizhou. In the end, I chose the Hulunbuir Grand Loop, which runs from Harbin to Qiqihar, Ergun, Shiwei, Heishantou, Manzhouli, Arxan, Baicheng, and Changchun. Local friends say it's their favorite and most frequently used route.
My body hasn’t moved, but my heart has already arrived. My mind is filled with thoughts of “the vast sky, the boundless wilderness, the wind blowing the grass low, and the sight of cattle and sheep.” What I saw with my own eyes was even more beautiful than I had imagined.
Hulunbuircheck the details
Hulunbuir is a prefecture-level city under the jurisdiction of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. It is named after the Hulun Lake and the Beier Lake within its territory. Hulunbuir is a multi-ethnic area with the Mongolian majority and the Han majority. Hulunbuir is a golden area, known as the "Jade of the North" and the "Green Pure Land". The total area is 262,000 square kilometers, accounting for 1/40 of China's territory, [9] equivalent to the combined area of Shandong and Jiangsu provinces. In the towns, agricultural areas, and forest areas of Hulunbuir where the Han people are more concentrated, mass entertainment activities are generally more active during the Spring Festival, Lantern Festival, and the leisure season in rural areas. The main forms of entertainment include yangge, Errenzhuan, single performances, ice sculptures, ice lanterns, and lantern exhibitions. In recent years, fireworks shows have also become popular in cities.
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Harbin's development benefited greatly from the construction of the Chinese Eastern Railway. With its full opening in 1903, Harbin, the hub and heart of one of the few major railway arteries in the world at the time, spanning over 2,400 kilometers, saw a sudden acceleration of urbanization. Numerous industrialists and businesspeople from home and abroad flocked to the city, and a variety of architectural styles flourished.
Harbin's old city consists of three sections: Nangang, Daowai, and Daoli, which were the main areas we visited. Nangang and Daoli are home to numerous churches, including Jewish, Christian, Catholic, Orthodox, and Islamic. The architecture is primarily Russian and Japanese. Lin Biao's East China Field Army headquarters was located here. Also, No. 1 Huayuan Street, where Chairman Mao and Premier Zhou Enlai lived, is a collection of old houses.
Daowai is dominated by Chinese Baroque style, and was built by Chinese businessmen at the time in imitation of the Western-style buildings in Nangang and Daoli.
Harbin summer travel routes:
Day 1: Visit the Chinese Baroque along the Songhua River - Railway Bridge/Old River Bridge - Flood Control Memorial Tower - Stalin Park - Sun Island
Day 2: Zhaolin Park - Harbin Museum - Saint Sophia Cathedral - Daoli Market - Central Street
Day 3 (optional): Volga Manor
Dajiang Bridge, located right next to the railway bridge, is now closed to traffic, but you can still see the bunkers and railway park at either end. You can ride a bicycle up to the bridge, and in the evenings, residents often stroll, cycle, and even dance to music on the bridge, making it a lively scene. From the bridge, you can overlook the scenery on both sides of the river and the Sun Island Cableway in the distance.
There are many fishing enthusiasts along the banks of the Songhua River, so it’s no wonder that there are many shops selling fishing gear on Jingyang Street at the end of the riverside trail.
Zhu Ziqing mentioned Harbin's Sun Island and its special outdoor tours: "There is a Sun Island in the river. It is very crowded in summer and people often go there with their whole family. The best thing to do on the island is naturally swimming, and the second best thing is probably boating."
Times have changed, and the sight of blonde Russian beauties in bikinis is no longer a rare sight. My vision of Sun Island is a wetland park. It's the first time I've seen such a large expanse of lotus. The island also boasts Squirrel Island, Swan Lake, and a deer park, all full of interesting attractions.
On the map, Zhaolin Park is marked as Harbin's most popular park. Curious, we couldn't resist exploring. It turns out Zhaolin Park, named after General Li Zhaolin, a renowned Anti-Japanese Allied Forces general, houses peacocks, mandarin ducks, and other poultry, as well as children's play equipment. The general's tomb sits in the park's center. We walked around the tomb, weeding it, and before departing, bowed to express our gratitude for the revolutionary martyrs' sacrifices. "Now, we have achieved the prosperity you wish for..."
Tips:
Transportation and tips:
The banks of the Songhua River are lined with trees and have bicycle lanes and sidewalks, so cycling is recommended.
Harbin has a rich resource of shared bicycles, including Ha L, M Tuan (and electric bikes), Q Ju, etc., which need to be returned to their designated parking areas. The closest one to Stalin Park is Q Ju;
The ferry terminal to Sun Island is located in Stalin Park. The ferry fares are 2 yuan, 10 yuan, and 35 yuan. The ticket seller said the 10 yuan terminal is closer to the scenic area, while the 2 yuan terminal requires a short walk. In fact, the two terminals are only 50 meters apart. The return ticket is 2 yuan for all trips.
Qiulin's leba (Russian sour bread, suitable as dry food on the Hulunbuir road), kvass (a sweet drink made from fermented leba, with a bready aroma), and red sausage;
I unexpectedly discovered that Daoli Market, across from Saint Sophia Cathedral, is a great place to shop. Not only can you buy fruits and vegetables, but there are also many local snacks and delicacies. Later I learned that this was Harbin's first large-scale folk market ("Bazashi" in Russian), and that Harbin recognized it as one of the first "Chinese Time-Honored Brands" in 2006.
There are many "Chinese time-honored brands" in China Baroque. We still remember the mutton soup at "Beisanshajia Shaomai";
Ai Xiaoma recommended Lucia Cafe on Central Street, an authentic Russian restaurant run by descendants of Russians and also the filming location of "The Cliff";
I met an old soldier at a meal in Baicheng who recommended Daotaifu's fried popsicles. I didn't get to try them, but here's a link for your reference. If anyone tries them, don't forget to let me know how they taste.
There are 15 species of cranes in the world, 9 of which are in China and 6 of which are in Zhalong Wetland, which is also the world's largest breeding ground for red-crowned cranes.
We came specifically for the crane release performances, catching two performances at 2:00 and 3:30 pm. The excitement of the performance depends entirely on the cranes' moods; sometimes they refuse to perform because they are full or too hot.
One yurt, two Mongolians, three camps, busy grazing all year round, offering sacrifices to the gods in May, the livestock are thriving, seven days of celebration, eight hundred miles of rapid travel, no shortage of wine, meat and tea, ten thanks to the happy gods.
The limerick describes the daily life of the Mongolian tribe: living in yurts, herding livestock, offering sacrifices to the oboo to pray for good weather and a prosperous year, galloping on horseback, feasting on beef and mutton and drinking milk tea, and fulfilling vows to the Eternal Heaven... It was also the highlight of the trip!
It is said that the most beautiful scenery in Hulunbuir is in Bayanhushuo, and Premier Zhou Enlai and other national leaders have visited here in person.
We will stay in one of the few yurts on the grassland with private bathrooms tonight, overlooking the Yimi River in the distance.
I got up at 4:30 in the morning and jogged to the sunrise viewing point. I saw the sun struggling to break through the dark clouds, showing us the beautiful scenery of the grassland in the early morning with its light and shadow art.
Herds of horses were nearby, the grass was illuminated in golden light, light streamed on the horses' backs, and all the fatigue from the journey was swept away.
Bayanhushuo has the largest oboo (used for sacrifices) in Hulunbuir, which is located on a small hill (which is already the highest mountain on this grassland). The oboo can be seen in the distance from the yurt.
The cliffs are a scenic area planned by the government. When we visited, a road was under construction, making the already difficult path muddy. Once the area is completed, an entrance fee will be charged, and visitors will be transported by eco-friendly vehicles, minimizing the risk of off-road vehicles driving over the grass. I look forward to seeing the Morigele River again on a sunny day!
Tips:
Food tips:
We came to Hulunbuir in August 2021. The price of mutton in hot pot restaurants and barbecue restaurants along the way was 78 yuan per portion (about one pound per portion);
I asked the off-road vehicle driver on the road, and he said a small lamb costs more than 1,000 yuan, and a large lamb costs more than 2,000 yuan. This is for reference for those who want to eat roasted whole lamb.
We usually order milk tea when the store has it, and some stores even give it away for free. Don’t miss it, it’s salty and super delicious.
Ergun is located at the junction of the Greater Khingan Range forest and the Mongolian steppe, creating a spectacular and diverse high-latitude wetland landscape.
As a resting place on the way to the Grand Loop, there is also a reindeer park in the Birch Forest Scenic Area. By buying a piece of moss for 15 yuan, you can get the opportunity to interact with reindeer at close range and take photos. There is also a cultural display area of the last reindeer tribe - Aoluguya.
Personally, I particularly dislike the attitude of the reindeer park staff who yell at tourists, and the reindeer are kept in a very small area in a poor environment. If you just want to see the reindeer, you can go to Genhe.
The Ergun River has been the boundary river between China and Russia since ancient times. The Chinese and Russian peoples and cultures also converge here, giving rise to a passionate and splendid Russian nation.
At one end of the town's main street is the Mengwushiwei Cultural Square, with a golden horse sculpture standing in the center of the square. From the town's observation deck, you can overlook the boundary river and Russia across the way.
If it is a clear evening, you can enjoy the rare sight of fiery clouds.
The town is not big, and there are concession bicycles everywhere.
You can go to the Leba Room to try Russian bread;
It is said that Shiwei is a typical tourist town with high prices. A meal costs 100 yuan per person. You can choose to eat roasted whole lamb.
Tips:
There are many homestays in the town that use the name of Mukeleng to attract business, but the buildings are actually made of bricks and cement, and only the outside is covered with a wooden veneer to imitate the look of Mukeleng. The whole logs can be seen inside and outside the authentic Mukeleng house, which is mainly made of birch wood and hand axes.
One of the most anticipated activities on this trip was riding horses across the prairie! Horsemen would match horses with different owners based on their temperaments. For example, a wild horse would be paired with a strong man, while a more docile horse would be paired with a slender woman.
You can ride a horse in Heishantou to circle the grassland wetlands. It takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on the speed of the horse. It is definitely worth the experience.
Tips:
Horseback riding: 200 yuan per time
The racecourse also offers activities such as go-karting, with three prices set according to the length of the trip: 200 yuan, 400 yuan, and 600 yuan.
"There are Suzhou and Hangzhou above, and heaven below, but neither compares to the dazzling lights of Manzhouli." The government has invested heavily in the lighting of Manzhouli's buildings. If you have the chance, explore Manzhouli at night. Besides buying Russian imported goods, beef jerky, cheese, and other tourist souvenirs, many welcoming shops invite you to sit down for a late-night snack, and if you're lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of fireworks. Manzhouli is a border crossing with Russia, and during non-pandemic periods, anyone with a passport can drive from Manzhouli to Russia. At the national border scenic spots, you can see the freight railway line passing under the national border, Boundary Marker No. 41, and the site of the Sixth Congress of the Communist Party of China.
Once you exit the scenic area and reach the bus stop, you can take a bus to Matryoshka Square, which is filled with dolls, even the trash cans (quite perverse). It's actually a theme park, perfect for families.
On the way to Arshan, you will pass by Hulun Lake. What is special about it is that there are beaches and marmots, which can be used as a resting point during the trip.
Tips:
There are six streets in Manzhouli, and the walking distance from the first street to the sixth street is about 30 minutes;
Beihu Park is also a tourist attraction in Manchuria. The night we went there, many children were playing shuttlecock in the park square, and some were setting off fireworks. You could buy firecrackers, which was a lot of fun.
Recommended by a local, I went to a store and bought Russian imported goods at wholesale prices. The chocolates that cost 5-8 yuan are not tasty and are not recommended. The ones with the % symbol on the packaging are dark chocolates that taste much better.
Air-dried beef jerky is about 105-108 yuan per catty;
After talking with local people, I heard that the rent here during the off-season is only 700 yuan/month, and the purchase price is 3,000 yuan/square meter. I will come again if I have the chance.
Russian home cooking, such as grilled sausage and suber soup, is worth trying. Compared to the Russian feasts you'll find in Harbin, the home cooking here is more refined, offering excellent value and flavor.
Arxan fulfilled my idyllic fantasy. "I built my home in a human settlement, yet there's no noise of carriages and horses." Here, you'll find China's most beautiful bicycle roads, lakes reflecting the azure sky, cattle and sheep grazing on the hillsides, and the air is sweet and the water is clear.
Arxan National Forest Park is the largest attraction in the area, boasting natural scenery comparable to that of a small Switzerland. Recommended attractions include Tuofengling Tianchi Lake, the Grand Canyon, Dujuan Lake, Santan Gorge, and Shitanglin.
Arxan is a natural ecological museum. Due to past volcanic eruptions, Arxan offers a unique opportunity to observe the evolution of native plants: volcanic lava cools into bare rock, lichen spores are spread by wind, lichens grow on the rocks, the lichens mix with rock debris to form soil, mosses form, ferns settle, small shrubs emerge, grasses form, trees grow, and finally a forest is formed.
In addition to Arxan National Forest Park, Arxan is also the filming location of the popular variety show "Dear Inn".
Just inside the Dear Inn is the Deer Park. Buy a basket of carrots and you can go in and feed the sika deer. You have to hold the basket high to prevent the shrewd deer from snatching up all the carrots. Sometimes, the neglected deer will even rub their heads against you to attract attention.
The Luyuan area is also known as White Wolf Village, and this is the home of the white wolf Fangfang. Fangfang had a miserable life, his mother died when he was just born, so his owner bought him and raised him from infancy to adulthood, turning him into a lovely little wolf who was a family member.
The smallest and most beautiful railway station in China is in Arshan. It is a Japanese-style building with two trains passing through it every day. It has a ticket hall, waiting room, luggage storage, toilets and platforms.
Tips:
The validity period of the ticket for Arxan National Forest Park is 2 days, and the transportation ticket for the scenic area needs to be purchased separately.
The road to Arxan National Forest Park has been under construction for four years, and some sections are still under construction. Taking the scenic bus is very inconvenient, so driving is recommended.
Arxan National Forest Park takes at least an hour to get from the main entrance to Tuofengling Tianchi by bus. Each scenic spot is at least 20-40 minutes apart, and you may need to transfer or take a detour to reach each attraction. A typical itinerary is to visit Tianchi Tuofengling, then the Grand Canyon, then Rhododendron Lake, and finally Santan Gorge, without backtracking.
The last bus to Arxan National Forest Park is at 17:00, so please plan your trip well. There is no ropeway/cable car in the scenic area.
You can rent a bicycle in the city of Arxan to visit Wuli Spring.
Barbecue (grilled milk skin! Tianchi crucian carp! Liugen fish! Grilled lamb chops! I accidentally ordered a plate of fried wild vegetable meatballs for 58 yuan at a barbecue restaurant. It was expensive and not very tasty. I was careless)
Boiled Lamb in Ice (a lamb hotpot method invented by Genghis Khan during his military campaigns. The meat becomes more tender the longer it is cooked. There is only one such place in the city, so don't expect much service, you will be satisfied with the meal.)
Of course, you have to eat wild delicacies when you are near the mountains. I tried a few kinds and was quite impressed by the small yellow mushrooms here.
Over 3,000 kilometers in 9 days, walking in the wilderness under the stars and moon, greeting the sunrise and chasing the sunset. Although the body is exhausted, the soul is healed.
I have been to Botswana in Africa. When I started my Hulunbuir Grand Loop trip, I looked at the same endless grassland and thought that I was going to start another journey that would always be on the road. So what is the difference between Hulunbuir and Africa?
After completing the grand loop, I thought that I would come to Hulunbuir again in the future, and to my beloved Arshan again, to eat hand-held meat, drink kumis, live in a yurt, cross the grassland with horses, and go to Manzhouli. When the epidemic is over, I will drive to Russia and drive all the way to Europe, and then drive to Italy before turning back!
