Live Your Best Lives
Ever since I first took my parents on a trip to Jiangsu and Zhejiang three years ago, I've fallen deeply in love with this Jiangnan region. Hangzhou's fragrant golden osmanthus, Suzhou's sycamore trees and gardens, Jiaxing's water towns and surging tides, Huzhou's mountains and bamboo forests. This year, I happened to be in Hangzhou again for work. After a busy week, it was the weekend, so I decided to explore the area. I opened a map app and saw Wenzhou.
Before this trip, I had no idea what Wenzhou was like. All I knew was that it had a strong economy, that its people were good at business, and that there was a hit TV series, "A Wenzhou Family," that aired ten years ago. With a desire to learn more about Wenzhou, I boarded the train to Wenzhou.
My time in Wenzhou wasn't long, only three days and two nights. While time was limited, I didn't want to rush my schedule just to check in. So, I just wanted to wander around Wenzhou's old town and see what the city looked like in the past.
Day 1: Wuma Historical and Cultural District, Nanxi Opera Museum, Zhu Ziqing's Former Residence; Evening: Jiangxin Island Transportation: Shared bicycle riding + walking
Day 2: Mifangcei Cultural and Creative Park, City Balcony, Oujiang River; Evening: Oujiang River Night Cruise at the Light and Shadow Pier, Pier Market; Transportation: Bus, Online Car-hailing
⭐️D3 Daytime: Qidu Island (Zhangli Village, Qiansha Village) Afternoon: Return, Transportation: Bus
Living in the Wuma District, I had plenty of time to soak up the culture and atmosphere of the historic district. After breakfast, before the sun got too hot, I grabbed a shared bike and prepared to ride around the area.
Wenzhou's Wuma Street is similar to Chengdu's Chunxi Road and Shanghai's Nanjing Road. Connected to the adjacent Gongyuan Road and Mochi, Wuma Street forms the Wuma Historical and Cultural District. With over 1,600 years of history, this cultural district bears witness to Wenzhou's past and present, and represents the city's character and glory.
The Wuma Historic District is vast, encompassing not only historical sites but also the cultural life of the city. Rather than exploring the bustling commercial streets and check-in spots, I prefer to explore a strange yet fascinating city by bike.
No vehicles are allowed to enter the core Wuma Street and Park Road, and you can only walk. However, because the entire historical district covers a large area, there are many spots that can be visited by bicycle.
The architecture along the way is truly exquisite, with a Jiangnan charm and a touch of Jinling influence. Cycling in the summer is only possible in the early morning and evening, when the weather isn't too hot. Cycling around 11 a.m. in the summer is no longer suitable. I'd love to come back in the fall; I really love autumn in Jiangsu and Zhejiang!
After parking the bike, I walked into Park Road. There was a bluestone pavement under my feet, green-tiled roofs above my head, and shop signs along the street full of Republican-era style... The ancient Jiangnan style and poetry were everywhere.
Park Road also contains a memory of Eileen Chang, about her past experiences in Wenzhou.
Strolling along Park Road, you'll find traces of history and culture, and historical buildings can be found at every turn.
Walk to the "City God Melody" in the middle of Park Road. This is one of the ten scenic spots along Park Road and the most unique feature of the entire road. According to historical records, the County City God Temple was built during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. Today, "City God Melody" is a replica of old photos from the Republic of China period. It consists of the County City God Temple, an ancient stage, and a cultural corridor. The stage in the south and the screen wall in the north recreate the grandeur of the City God Temple in the past. The stage also occasionally hosts performances of southern opera, which is unique in its charm.
The stage features classic characters from Southern Opera, promoting Wenzhou's treasure, Southern Opera, from all aspects.
The Wuma Historic District holds all the memories of old Wenzhou. Like a wooden box, it seals the past of all those who came before it. Today's descendants of Wenzhou reawaken these memories, gently brushing away the dust of time and revealing the treasures once again.
From the turbulent days of the Republic of China to the epics of modern times, and now to its modern legacy, Wenzhou has weathered the storms of time and witnessed China's development, reform, and transformation. As history rolls on, here, I hear the voice of history.
I wanted to find a place to escape the heat and cool down, avoiding the peak afternoon heat. When planning my route, I noticed the Nanxi Opera Museum and Zhu Ziqing's former residence were very close to Park Road and Wuma Street, only about a five-minute bike ride away. I had just booked an afternoon session.
Nanxi, a form of opera that originated in Wenzhou during the Song and Yuan dynasties, is considered the forefather of Chinese opera. It laid the foundation for the basic structure of Chinese opera and evolved into hundreds of new genres, marking the true maturity of Chinese drama. The Nanxi Museum, built in the 1920s on the site of the former Yikang Money House by Ge Mingzhai and Huang Shuxiang, is a specialized museum dedicated to the birth of Nanxi and the development of local opera.
A Western-style building with a blend of Chinese and Western styles, its courtyard is surrounded by corridors, making it ideal for viewing and appreciating traditional opera. The stage in the atrium was specially designed for the public performances of the Nanxi Opera Museum Cultural Station.
The Nanxi Opera Museum displays a variety of Nanxi opera costumes, props, books and librettos, and even a separate display of puppetry. It's a shame I didn't get to personally experience the charm of Nanxi Opera, the "ancestor of opera," during my two or three days in Wenzhou. But these arias, emanating from every corner of Wenzhou, still reach my ears.
Zhu Ziqing's former residence is just across the wall from the Nanxi Opera Museum. My previous understanding of Mr. Zhu Ziqing basically came from the Chinese textbooks in middle school. The article "Back View" is still fresh in my memory, and "Green" makes me sigh, how could someone be able to describe the green in front of him and the poetry in his heart so delicately and vividly in words.
In 1923, Mr. Zhu Ziqing came to Wenzhou to teach and lived in this house for a period of time. He also wrote four essays "Traces of Wenzhou" here, among which "Green" was written here.
The old house is a classic Chinese courtyard house, each space offering its own distinct world. Living room, study, bedroom, patio, garden. Strolling through the old house, you can experience the daily life of this great man.
Moss has grown on the tiles, warmed by the sun and moistened by the rain, sheltering this old house from the elements for years. They bear witness to the sounds of reading, the candlelight burning late at night, and the worlds depicted by every word on the desk. This old house brings to Wenzhou the enduring fragrance of books.
The turbulent currents gradually straighten out, and a solitary island stands out in the middle of the river. Clouds and sun shine together, and the sky and water are both clear and bright.
Xiamen has Gulangyu Island, and Wenzhou also has Jiangxin Island. As one of China's four most scenic isolated islands, Jiangxin Island is known as the "Penglai of the Oujiang River." Famous poets throughout history, including Li Bai, Du Fu, Meng Haoran, Han Yu, Xie Lingyun, Lu You, and Wen Tianxiang, have all left their mark on Jiangxin Island. For thousands of years, countless literati and scholars have left their mark on Jiangxin Island.
In the evening, after leaving Zhu Ziqing's former residence, the summer heat had dissipated. I walked to Jiangxin Island Pier, bought a ticket, and boarded the ferry across the river to the island. The ferry runs from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM, with departures roughly every half hour. Besides tourists from around the world, Jiangxin Island is also frequented by many elderly locals. For them, Jiangxin Island is more of a place for a quiet walk, exercise, and self-cultivation.
The ferry ride to the island is very quick, crossing only half of the Oujiang River, and reaching Jiangxin Island takes only about 5 minutes. Taking the ferry in the evening, feeling the river breeze on the deck is particularly refreshing. The river breeze is gentle, and the water is sparkling.
I secretly wish the ferry across the river would run a little slower, but good times always end too quickly. But that's ok, I also booked a cruise to experience the charm of the Oujiang River at night.
While still on the ferry, before reaching the island, we saw a strangely shaped, slightly dilapidated ancient tower. A giant tree grew on the top of the tower, resembling an umbrella or a hat. At this moment, some tourists on the boat excitedly screamed and picked up their phones to take photos and check in.
Upon inquiry, I learned that this tower is actually the East Tower of Jiangxin Island, which previously appeared in the popular manga "One Piece". The original author personally replied and confirmed that the inspiration came from the East Tower of Jiangxin Island, which attracted many manga fans to check in and take pictures.
It's undeniable that, as a place where characters in comics cultivate, the East Pagoda truly possesses an indescribable charm, as if it harbors a mysterious power, hiding a master of the martial arts world. The fact that an ancient pagoda on Jiangxin Island has been featured in a world-class comic and widely circulated is something to be proud of and delighted about.
Upon arriving on the island, you'll see a historic building. This was once the British Consulate in Wenzhou. It's now open to the public free of charge as a museum dedicated to Wenzhou's modern history. Since we arrived late, the building was closed, so unfortunately, we didn't get to explore it. However, the building's exterior is its most striking feature. Several couples have taken wedding photos here, commemorating their lifelong commitments and vows.
The shores of Jiangxin Island are a perfect spot for enjoying the river breeze and the scenery. Sitting on a bench, I gaze at the rolling Oujiang River, feeling the cool breeze. I enjoy being an observer, observing the small, ordinary joys and moments in daily life. While the scenery of mountains and rivers is undoubtedly magnificent, it's the ability to discover the beauty of everyday life, to grasp the small joys of ordinary life, that truly illuminates my own life.
Strolling along Jiangxin Island is a delightful experience. Unlike Xiamen's Gulangyu, which is dominated by a variety of architectural styles and hilly slopes, Jiangxin Island embodies the poetic charm of Jiangnan gardens, with two pagodas, a temple, and a lake that evokes a sense of nostalgia.
An ancient well on the island still produces ice-cold, pure groundwater. The islanders once relied on this spring for drinking and daily life. The well water, warm in winter and cool in summer, was a gift from nature.
As the sun slowly sets in the evening, the sky turns from azure blue to golden yellow, and the honey-hued sunset casts a shadow over the Oujiang River. After a busy day, the city gradually slows down.
Sitting by the lake on Jiangxin Island, the sunset glow was breathtakingly beautiful. The golden sunset had transformed into a pink-purple glow, blazing across the entire sky. It was a dreamlike scene. I sat on the lakeside bench for a long time, reluctant to leave. The longer I travel, the more places I visit, the more I like to slow down. Rather than rushing to check in on every attraction like a stamp collector, I prefer to immerse myself in a specific time and place, watching a sunset.
Jiangxin Island at dusk possesses a beauty unlike that of the day. While green during the day, it is adorned with vibrant colors bestowed by the sunset glow. Pavilions, towers, bridges, flowing water, the setting sun, and weary birds crossing the river.
We arrived at the foot of the West Pagoda before nightfall. The blue-lit West Pagoda and the arched bridge create a breathtaking composition. The East and West Pagodas of Jiangxin Island stand side by side, their towering towers framing Jiangxin Temple. Compared to the dilapidated East Pagoda, the West Pagoda is more intact, resembling a traditional spire-topped pagoda.
After watching the sunset fade from Jiangxin Island, the sky finally darkened. Lights came on, outlining the city's outlines. The return ferry was surprisingly quiet. No one was chatting or talking; everyone was just enjoying the river breeze.
Beijing has 798 Art Park, Shanghai has Xintiandi, and Chengdu has Dongjiao Memory. Wenzhou's trendy lifestyle is best captured in the Mifangcei Cultural and Creative Park, a former flour mill. Preserving the mill's original architectural form, it has been reimagined and renovated with the latest trends, transforming it into Wenzhou's most artistic, retro, and trendy destination.
Mifang is home to a wealth of cultural and creative shops, photography studios, cafes, and stylish restaurants and bars. It offers everything from food and drinks to entertainment. Of course, for many young people, taking photos is paramount here – it's truly a photogenic place! The retro factory-like feel and stylish decor make any shot here a true masterpiece.
This corner of Mifang is a must-see for everyone who comes here to take photos. It feels like one of Seoul's art cafe districts.
Another highlight of Mifang is its rich murals! They're all incredibly lifelike. In a random corner, you might stumble upon Spider-Man, and then turn around again, you'll find Iron Man. Finding your favorite murals at Mifang is a great way to while away the hours. Then, find a favorite cafe, sip a latte, and savor a sweet waffle. That's my kind of city life.
While browsing nearby Wenzhou, I stumbled upon a circular, hollowed-out building, perched among the city's skyscrapers, overhanging the Oujiang River. The shape was quite unique, and after searching, I realized it was Wenzhou's "City Balcony." It wasn't too far from where I was, so I could just take a taxi.
Located on Oujiang Road, the City Balcony is a landmark in Wenzhou's Binjiang CBD. Its unique design has me yearning for it. Compared to the City Balcony itself, the aerial view of it looks more like a bottle opener.
When I walked up to it, I felt that its walls were more like a replica of the Poly Theater in Nanjing, with the same flowing lines and artistic veins.
The City Balcony comprises three vertical levels. The first level is the entrance, with entrances at both the front and rear. The second level is a partially open observation deck, featuring transportation and viewing platforms. The third level houses the apron observation deck, offering the best vantage point for enjoying the scenery. A sloped surface connects the terrace to the landscaped area. Three pathways connect to the CBD Green Corridor Park on the ground level, with flower beds along the steps filled with plants and flowers, creating a pleasant and inviting atmosphere.
At dusk, on a city balcony, the Oujiang River beneath my feet has receded, and the boats, having worked all day, are returning home. Those who have worked hard all day long for home, for a meal, and to unwind from the day's boredom.
Every day in Wenzhou is filled with beautiful sunsets. Such good fortune is truly precious. I cherish every opportunity I have now, and look forward to reopening my world of travel next year.
Cities with rivers often offer night cruises. I love boat trips, especially those from inland cities. Standing on the deck, feeling the river breeze and gazing at the city lights on both sides, it instantly feels like a vacation. I've experienced night cruises in Chongqing, Guangzhou, and Hong Kong. I thought Wenzhou's night cruises were similar, but the Oujiang River Night Cruise in Wenzhou truly opened my eyes.
The first night cruise departs from Yangfushan Pier at 7:15 PM each evening. The journey takes 60 minutes. The boat has three decks. The second floor is a restaurant where you can order drinks and some meals. The third floor is a deck with a projector showing movies.
The sofa on the deck is very comfortable, offering a panoramic view of the night lights on both sides of the estuary. Today's sunset wasn't particularly stunning, but the sky was beautiful nonetheless. It's strange to say, having lived in inland cities for so long, I rarely see such brilliant sunsets. But whenever I travel to coastal cities or islands, seeing sunsets is a common occurrence. Another day I'm tempted to move here. Traveling is about moving from a place you're bored of to a place others are bored of.
Unlike traditional night tours that focus solely on the city lights on both sides of the river, this Oujiang River night tour utilizes the mountains, buildings, bridges, and landscapes along the river as a backdrop, showcasing the unique Wenzhou landscape and Ouyue civilization through dazzling illumination. The lighting design was provided by a supplier for the Beijing Winter Olympics, resulting in truly stunning lighting effects.
When the single-line voyage is almost over, the water curtain light show starts under the bridge. There are mountains behind us, the river at our feet, and a magnificent water curtain light show in front of us.
This scene made almost everyone take out their mobile phones and cameras to record this dreamy night tour climax.
The dinner on the boat was also very good. We ordered a few simple Western dishes, which were surprisingly delicious. Enjoying the stunning night view of the mountains and rivers while savoring tender steaks is a unique experience on the Oujiang River in Wenzhou.
After the night tour, the Guangying Wharf market was already bustling with activity! On an early summer night, dusk fell and the lights began to come on. The riverside was ablaze with color, and the lights on both sides were brightly lit. Wenzhou's lively young people gathered at Guangying Wharf, holding umbrellas, setting up stalls, and lighting up the lights, livening up this stretch of riverside.
Young people have "packed" their shops into their car trunks, displaying handmade cultural and creative products. Car owners have set up tents and small stools, accessorized with warm-colored light bulbs and artistic signs, and mixed their "exclusive secret drinks" on the spot. Passersby gather in groups of three or five, lingering in front of the trunks of their cars, sharing in the simple joys of human connection.
In the evening, take a night cruise at Guangying Pier. Afterward, you can browse the lively market near the pier to enjoy delicious food, cold drinks, coffee, music and culture, and enjoy the night life of Wenzhou. This is the life in Wenzhou that I envy.
In addition to Jiangxin Island, Wenzhou also has Qidu Island not far away. Unlike Jiangxin Island, which is a small secluded world, Qidu Island is more like an independent living world.
Qidu Island, nestled in the center of the Oujiang River, was formed by silt deposited by the river's tides. The island is highly modernized, with several sizable villages, each with its own distinct character.
While reviewing my notes, I came across Qidu Island, a popular weekend getaway for Wenzhou residents, so I decided to head there. From the Wuma Historical District, I took the express bus for 2 yuan per person and crossed the bridge to Qidu Island in under an hour. The first village I encountered on the island was Zhangli Village, reminiscent of a Jiangnan water town.
Zhangli Village isn't large, but what's remarkable about it is the exquisitely crafted structures in every corner. The vines of the flower wall, cascading like a waterfall, make this small villa the most striking feature of the entire village.
Zhangli Village is filled with wall-to-wall ink paintings. Even shop signs are painted in ink. These ancient and poetic ink paintings rarely appear on walls, but here, traces of ink can be seen at every turn. In the village, nearly every house bears a hand-painted depiction of the Jiangnan waterside villages, depicting small bridges, flowing water, swaying willows, and white walls and black tiles, on its walls, windows, and doors.
The murals are themed around waterside scenery and are full of creativity. The images are both simple and elegant, yet lifelike.
Zhangli Village is a place with flowing water, small bridges, crisscrossing paths, neatly built houses, and egrets soaring in the sky. This is the Jiangnan water town in my dreams. Here, I feel like I have already arrived in Jiangnan.
I wanted to visit the riverside of Qidu Island, so I took the bus to the end and walked towards the river. When I got close to the river, I came across a vast expanse of golden rice fields.
I never thought there would be such a large rice field on the island, with green leaves and golden rice fields connected, a scene full of hope for a good harvest.
Walking along the path between the rice paddies, there is a pristine natural beauty. Take the drone up into the sky, and you don't need to fly too high to see a vast expanse of golden fields.
The golden rice ears are about to be harvested, each grain plump and heavy, bowing its head. I continue to enjoy the sunshine. I remember being told that people should be like rice ears, enriching themselves and learning to bow their heads in order to rise.
In the field of hope, everything is full of hope, right?
Not far from the rice fields is the riverside, and also the ancient ferry wharf of Qiansha Village. Although this wharf is abandoned, it has become a shared nostalgic memory for locals and overseas Chinese.
These ancient ferry crossings were once important water transportation routes on the island, but they came to a halt with the construction of the cross-river bridge. Times have changed people's lifestyles for hundreds of years, but they cannot change people's longing for and nostalgic memories of the ferry.
The ferries that used to carry passengers back and forth at the mouth of the Oujiang River have lost their original appearance. They are separated by the weeds on the mudflats, left to be washed by the tides and ravaged by the strong winds. They stand alone under the setting sun and the bright moon, looking a bit desolate in the bustling urban area.
I struggled to climb onto the rusted old boat and walked carefully inside. I don't know how long these boats have been abandoned here. The old newspapers, unused daily necessities, navigation information and picture books on the boats have all been abandoned here and stranded in this mudflat.
As I reached the highest point on the deck, I spontaneously started singing "See You Tomorrow." Surprisingly, the lyrics perfectly matched the scene. "When a ship sinks to the bottom of the sea, when a person becomes a mystery." "You don't know why he left, but that goodbye was his last word."
I took this aerial photo by myself with a drone, and it's quite captivating. However, if you enjoy climbing these dilapidated boats, be careful not to fall or get hurt, as there's so much rust on them that you could get tetanus from the wounds. This is another side of the Oujiang River, and this is also another side of Wenzhou.
While Wenzhou isn't known for its culinary scene, I've discovered plenty of local delicacies here. Whether it's a must-try restaurant listed on your phone or a random street food stall you pass by, it's a must-try. In short, when you come to Wenzhou, bring your stomach-strengthening and digestion-promoting supplements! Because Wenzhou is truly delicious!
I stumbled upon this old street stall selling lantern cakes. I thought it was a good way to fill my stomach, but I couldn't stop eating! The egg yolk inside was especially runny! The yolk soaked through the beef and vegetables, it was truly amazing!
A long-standing wonton shop on Wuma Historical Street. I was drawn in by the architecture, expecting it to be packed with tourists, but it was filled with locals and a constant stream of delivery drivers. The wontons are thin-skinned and generously filled, and the broth is light and delicious.
⭐️ A must-try restaurant in Wenzhou, according to review apps. This place is truly viral online! Their menu isn't extensive, and it's primarily sauerkraut, suggesting they're incredibly confident in their pickles. Arriving at 7:30 pm, the specialty dishes were almost sold out. Their popular pickled shrimp and mushrooms were already sold out, so I ordered the pickled fish and shrimp. The pickled cabbage was truly delicious, unlike Sichuan and Northeastern pickled cabbage, which had a sweet aftertaste.
A small, two-table pig noodle shop near the hotel. A small portion costs just over a dozen yuan, and the pig intestines are so generous that they'd cost around 30 yuan in Chengdu. The intestines are cleanly prepared, and the braised sauce is perfectly flavored. The pig blood is tender and has no odor. A bowl of pig noodle soup is truly a delicious local delicacy, no matter the time of day.
⭐️ Chaoshan Pickled House is one of Wenzhou's most popular Chaoshan restaurants. Even after lunchtime, the line outside lasted an hour. Affordable and delicious. My companion was pleasantly surprised by the Chaoshan-style stir-fried clams, which resembled clams. They were literally the size of melon seeds. The pickled mantis shrimp were sold out again (how much do Wenzhou people love mantis shrimp!), but luckily, they still had pickled blood clams. The blood clams were so crispy and tender that I could easily devour them all on their own. On the other hand, I wasn't so impressed with the texture of the pickled oysters.
Wenzhou Fish Balls are the most famous fish balls in Wenzhou. I visited the main store on Park Road and was lucky enough to see the internet-famous owner personally making them. Unlike the round balls found elsewhere, Wenzhou fish balls are more like fish strips. They're cut into strips, coated in batter, and then tossed into the pot one by one until cooked. The broth is light, but the vinegar and pepper add a unique flavor.
⭐️Almond tofu: A Wenzhou local's essential summer dessert. I thought it was almond tofu, but the tofu-like white flakes are actually crisp agar-agar. The broth has a refreshing minty flavor, and paired with yellow peaches and other fruits, it's incredibly refreshing. Almond tofu is also a common dessert in Wenzhou, and you'll find it in nearly every restaurant.
Towards the end of my trip, I wanted to visit Wenzhou and see the sea, so I bought a boat ticket to Nanji Island. However, on the day I boarded the high-speed train from Wenzhou to Pingyang, I was told that the ferry service was suspended for two days due to strong winds. Thus ended my Wenzhou trip with regret. Looking back on my Wenzhou trip, I realized I'd been wandering around Lucheng District, Wenzhou's old city. Whether it was Wuma Street on Park Road, the City Balcony, or Qidu Island, I never left Lucheng.
During my two or three days in Wenzhou, I walked, cycled through the ancient city, and took a night cruise. I tried every possible way to experience the diverse experiences that Wenzhou offers me. Zhang Ailing left a legacy of love in Wenzhou, and Zhu Ziqing left memories there. So what did I leave behind in Wenzhou? If I could leave a song for Wenzhou, it would be this summer rhapsody I've written about it in this travelogue.
