Live Your Best Lives
Morocco, a little-known country a few years ago, once had one of the most cumbersome visa requirements in the world. However, starting on June 1, 2016, the King of Morocco visited China and implemented a visa-free policy for Chinese citizens, gradually opening our eyes to the country. In the two to three years since then, Morocco has become a frequent destination for outbound travel.
The blue three-dimensional mountain city "Chefchaouen", the world's largest desert "Sahara Desert", the world's third largest mosque "Hassan II Mosque" on the Atlantic Ocean, and the mysterious bonus of the novels of Taiwanese writer Sanmao have attracted many Chinese people to flock to it!
Seeing the photos shared by many friends, I have been attracted to it for a long time. Due to the epidemic, the travel plan to Morocco was put on hold for 3 years. During the epidemic, Morocco’s tourism restrictions were also very strict. Finally, in August 2024, China resumed tourism permits to Morocco.
This National Day, let us follow China-TravelNote and return to Morocco!
After a long 18-hour flight, we finally arrived at the northern tip of the African continent, our first stop in Morocco, Casablanca.
Casablanca, located on the Atlantic coast of western Morocco, is a historic city, the country's largest port city, economic center, and transportation hub. Of course, it also boasts Morocco's most iconic building, the Hassan II Mosque.
The Hassan II Mosque, located in the northwest of the city, is directly linked to the late King Hassan II. King Hassan II reigned for over 30 years, known for his noble character, diligence, and love for his people. He brought peace and prosperity to the country and held great prestige among his people. Believing this to be the guidance of God, the king decided to build a grand mosque in Morocco, the westernmost point of the Muslim world, to express his gratitude to God and to name it after himself.
As for why the mosque was built on the sea, it is said that it was due to a dream the king had, in which he received the true words of Allah: "The throne of Allah should be built on water."
Construction of the mosque began in August 1987 at a cost of over $500 million. It covers an area of nine hectares, one-third of which is built on the sea, commemorating the sea-crossing origins of Moroccan Arab ancestors. The mosque can accommodate 100,000 worshippers simultaneously, making it the third largest mosque in the world, after the mosques in Mecca and Medina, Saudi Arabia.
Our hotel is right next to the Hassan II Mosque, just a 5-minute walk away. From our room, we can see the towering minaret, the tallest in the world at 210 meters. The benefit of staying so close is that we can capture every sunrise and sunset over the mosque.
After putting our luggage away, we set off for the mosque, waiting for the sunset and the afterglow, the noisy tourists on the beach, the teenagers playing football, the vendors selling snacks, the fishermen fishing and collecting shells... The mosque is not only a symbol of this city, but also an important place for local people to live and gather.
If the mosque is bustling in the evening, then the early morning is definitely its most quiet and solemn time. I made an appointment with Teacher Jia to head to the mosque early in the morning to wait for the sunrise.
After breakfast, we returned to the Mosque Square and bought tickets to enter. The Hassan II Mosque is the only mosque in Morocco open to non-Muslims, so we needed to arrive early to queue for tickets. This epic and magnificent mosque, clad in Islamic mosaics, with its minaret soaring into the sky and its base floating on the sea, looks from afar like a giant aircraft carrier, majestic and regal, despite the crashing waves.
If you enjoy architecture, the Hassan II Mosque's exterior will already captivate you, but its interior will renew your admiration. The intricate Islamic cedar wood carvings, mosaic tiles, marble fountains, traditional steam baths, and a skylight that opens in three seconds, illuminating the soul with its sanctity... This embodies a millennium of Moroccan decorative art.
We stayed in Casablanca for a total of 2 nights. We couldn't bear to miss any sunrise and sunset. This magnificent mosque brought surprises and shocks every moment.
Leaving Casablanca and heading south, we did not go directly to Marrakech, but came to a small coastal city [Essaouira].
Essaouira means "picturesque" in Arabic. The Atlantic winds sweep across the city year-round, attracting many surfing and windsurfing enthusiasts, earning it the nickname "Africa's Windy City."
Essaouira is a melting pot of diverse ethnicities and cultures, where Arabs, indigenous Africans, Berbers, and Jews peacefully coexist, creating a unique cultural landscape. This interplay of cultures creates a unique charm in Essaouira.
White and blue are the theme colors of the city, with white seagulls flying freely and blue fishing boats shuttling back and forth; fishermen return from the fishing port with full loads under the setting sun, and fisherwomen sit on the beach weaving fishing nets in the sea breeze; tourists and groups of artists from all over the world stroll leisurely here... The picturesque castles and turrets, the maze-like local communities, the intricate alleys, the quiet squares and art workshops, the bustling docks, and the sunset known as the best in Morocco are all fascinating.
If the most beautiful sunset in Essaouira is not enough to satisfy you, then the Essaouira fishing port in the early morning will definitely make you fall in love with this place.
At daybreak, the fishermen in the fishing port are already busy. Some are sailing out to sea, some are fishing ashore, some are packaging and transshipping, some are selling in retail, and some are shopping... Without the disturbance of tourists, the port retains its original liveliness.
Speaking of Marrakech, I can't help but mention Kashgar, Xinjiang, China. I've visited the old city of Kashgar countless times, walking its streets and visiting every corner, and I know it like the back of my hand. Whenever I search for "Kashgar," "Marrakech" often comes up in my input method. This ancient North African city, like Kashgar's twin brother, is waiting for me to explore.
Leaving Essaouira, the Windy City, we headed straight to Marrakech. Marrakech is the third largest city in the country and the political center of the southern region. Known as the Red City, it is one of the most important ancient capitals in Morocco's history.
Nestled at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, Marrakech, a Berber word meaning "God's Domain," boasts the largest Berber souk (market) in Morocco and the busiest square in Africa. The old city was somewhat affected by a magnitude 7.0 earthquake in early September. My introduction to Marrakech began with a fine restaurant.
After lunch, the temperature in Marrakech was still hot, so we first visited the Majorelle Garden, a garden with a strong artistic atmosphere.
Jardin Majorelle, also known as the "Garden of Yves Saint Laurent," is a French luxury brand often associated with high fashion, exquisite design, and a luxurious lifestyle. However, few people know that one of the founders of this world-renowned brand, Yves Saint Laurent, actually owned a private garden on the African continent: the famous Jardin Majorelle.
Covering approximately two acres in the heart of the city, the Majorelle Gardens are renowned for their unique design and lush plantings.
More than just a private garden, the Jardin Majorelle is an artistic masterpiece by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, showcasing their love and respect for nature, art, and culture. The garden became their haven, a place for seclusion and reflection.
Today, it is open to the public and has become a popular attraction attracting tourists from all over the world.
Since ancient times, Marrakech has been an important commercial center in Morocco. It is rich in resources, has developed commerce, and showcases a vibrant urban life.
Located at the southwest end of Marrakech's Medina, Djemaa El Fna is Morocco's largest traditional market and North Africa's bustling open-air souk. Since the 12th century, Djemaa El Fna has been the city's most vibrant commercial hub. During the day, the surrounding streets and alleys are bustling with customers, while at night, the square's night market is bustling with people. Open year-round, from dawn to dusk, it's known as the "Square That Never Sleeps."
Djemaa El Fna Square is lined with shops and stalls, selling everything from food to tea, from luggage to shoes and hats, from lamps to handicrafts. The goods are dazzling and have everything you need to suit your budget. It is like a giant open-air department store, showing the most authentic life of the city and filled with the most down-to-earth urban atmosphere of Morocco.
In order to better capture the sunset and night view of the square, Xiaoxin helped us occupy the landscape restaurant next to the square early. There is a minimum consumption on each floor, and reservations and repeated confirmations are required early. African brothers are notoriously unreliable, but all these efforts and waiting are worth it.
After leaving Marrakech, we crossed the Atlas Mountains, the largest mountain range in Morocco. A smooth road cut through the vast Gobi Desert, passing through gently undulating hills, and arrived at Ait Ben Haddou, a narrow village in the oasis of a wide river valley.
Ait Ben Haddou Village was originally used as a castle by the local Berbers to defend against bandits and robbers. Thousands of years of history have not changed anything. Ait Ben Haddou Village still preserves its unique architectural style and cultural features intact. The tall walls and corner towers made of red mud mixed with chopped grass guard the layers of residential houses behind them.
In 1987, Ait Ben Haddou was listed as a World Cultural Heritage. In order to better protect it, the Moroccan government relocated most of the villagers to live on the other side of the river. The ancient village buildings are currently only used for filming and television for tourists to watch.
At least 20 Hollywood blockbusters have been filmed in Ait Ben Haddou Village, including the familiar "Lawrence of Arabia", "Gladiator", "The Treasure of the Nile", "Sahara", "Alexander the Great", "Queen of the Desert", "Star Wars", etc., as well as the well-known "Game of Thrones" and the Chinese film "Operation Red Sea". Movie fans can find familiar places here to take pictures, which is very interesting.
Sanmao is a well-known romantic writer whose stories of love and life have truly influenced a generation. Many of her works are true records of her personal experiences of love and life, such as her most well-known work, "Stories from the Sahara," which describes what Sanmao and her husband, Jose, experienced while living in the desert of Western Sahara. "Every time I think of you, a grain of sand falls from the sky, and from then on, the Sahara becomes a desert." The endless dunes, the grains of sand dancing in the wind, are all the marks of my longing for you.
"The Sahara Desert is the place with the most sunshine in the world. This is the largest desert in the world with the worst natural conditions. I don't know if I will have the good fortune to encounter it in this lifetime. Life is so long that it seems impossible to imagine what tomorrow will be like; but life is also so short that there doesn't seem to be much time to think clearly." Today, we have also followed Sanmao's story and come to the Sahara Desert. Although this is not the city "Laayoune" where she lives, the desert in Merzouga is more delicate and red.
We changed into a four-wheel drive off-road vehicle and went deep into the neighboring desert. We stayed in a Berber-style hotel on the edge of the desert. It was even a hotel with a "swimming pool" on the edge of the desert. I regretted not bringing swimming trunks to swim in the desert.
As the sun gradually sets, we pack our bags and set off to the desert to wait for the sunset and the afterglow.
Thanks to the full moon, our initially dismal starry sky actually offered a pleasant surprise. After sunset at 7:00 PM, the light gradually dimmed, the galactic center rose at 8:00 PM, and the moon rose at 9:20 AM. Heaven gave us a window of about an hour to encounter the vast Milky Way in the desert, capturing it with our camera and the occasional meteors streaking across the sky.
The next morning, we rode on tall and thin camels and went deep into the desert again, waiting for the sun to rise.
Leaving the Sahara Desert, we continue north to the thousand-year-old city of Fez.
Fez, Morocco's oldest imperial city and third-largest city, serves as the region's political, economic, and cultural center. Its history dates back to the 9th century, when King Idriss I established Morocco's first dynasty. The city is renowned for its unique labyrinthine layout, with a crisscrossing network of streets and alleyways forming an intricate maze.
Visitors to Fez often jokingly describe the leather factories there as "notorious for being smelly," and this description is no exaggeration. The sour, rotten smell not only permeates every corner of the factories, but also permeates the air of the old city of Fez.
The pungent smell comes from over 200 pools filled with a mixture of limewater and pigeon droppings. Workers clean the hides of cattle, sheep, camels, and other animals with knives, then immerse them in the lime pools. Once the fat and protein dissolve completely, the hides become smooth and soft. Afterward, the hides are removed, cleaned, and placed in dye vats for dyeing.
The dyeing process is crucial, and it's the essence of Fez leather that distinguishes it from leather products from other regions. We found a local to guide us, and even went directly into the workshop to photograph their work up close. The powerful smell and the charm of the primitive working scene made the photographers both excited and reluctant...
Most tourists who come here to visit will walk through the surrounding leather shops and watch from afar on the rooftop to take pictures. The mint leaves given by the locals cannot block the stench of smoke. We walked into the workshop up close to take pictures, and the smell was naturally stronger, but it was a rare opportunity and we were reluctant to leave.
In the afternoon, we entered the old city of Fez again from Bab Bou Jeloud. Careful friends will definitely find that the two sides of Bab Bou Jeloud are different in color. The front is the eye-catching Fez blue, and the back is the simple green wall tiles. The ancient door is like a time tunnel, spanning thousands of years back to that bustling era.
After leaving the old town, we stopped by the Royal Palace of Fez. It's one of the palaces of the King of Morocco and is still in use. You can visit the gate and take photos. The glittering golden brick carvings on the walls showcase the splendor and wealth of the royal family.
As modern city dwellers, the ancient city market during the day could not satisfy our shopping desires, so we went to the local shopping malls in groups at night to see the more lively market.
We originally planned to go to the Chera ruins in Rabat, but because the ancient site was closed for protection, we temporarily chose an alternative point [Volrublis] and unexpectedly discovered a nice ancient Roman ruins.
Founded in the 3rd century BC, the ancient city of Volubilis was once the capital of the ancient North African nation of Mauritania and a key Roman outpost, boasting many elegant and exquisite buildings. The archaeological site, a fertile agricultural region, has yielded numerous significant relics and artifacts.
The ancient city has well-preserved triumphal arches and the white stone columns of the theater. Even the streets, residential houses, oil mills, public baths, markets, etc. of the ancient city are still clearly visible, and there are many mosaic murals here.
Chefchaouen is probably the first place that many people know about Morocco. The blue buildings and three-dimensional streets, white walls and exquisite window grilles amaze many tourists.
Chefchaouen is located in the Rif Mountains and is surrounded by a wall built on the mountain. At the end of the 15th century, the Moors from Andalusia crossed the sea from Spain and settled here.
Initially built as a fortress, it gradually developed into a city, ultimately becoming Chefchaouen. Back then, the city wasn't blue. Around the 1930s, Jews fleeing Spain, facing religious persecution, arrived in Chefchaouen, a mountain city with a natural barrier. In Judaism, blue represents the sky and heaven, so they used a natural pigment made from Tekhelel shellfish to paint the exteriors of their houses blue, hoping to gain divine protection. They also planted Seville orange trees in their yards, perhaps a silent nostalgia for home.
Although Chefchaouen is geographically remote, it has suffered from wars many times. Later, other residents in the mountain city also wanted to get shelter and followed suit. As a result, the entire mountain city was slowly rebuilt and surrounded by blue.
Xiaoxin specially brought the local Moroccan clothing "Djellaba", a white robe, a pointed hood, and pointed leather shoes, becoming the most eye-catching model. Through the brim of his hat, you can see his happy smile (idol burden has come up)
There were many tourists in the village in the evening, so we went directly to the Spanish Church halfway up the mountain. From here we can overlook the entire city of Chefchaouen. The uneven mountain city and the blue and white buildings are unique and charming.
Photography requires rich light and shadow and a simple background, so we chose to visit the small town again early the next morning, while the shops were not open yet and the tourists had not arrived yet, to find small scenes in the streets and alleys to take pictures, waiting for the locals to slowly light up the small town.
Many people may not know the city of Tangier, but everyone must know the "Strait of Gibraltar". It is a strait city in Morocco, across the sea from Spain in Europe. The closest place is only 20 kilometers away. When the weather is clear, you can directly see the mountains opposite.
Tangier not only has the Strait of Gibraltar, but also a popular cave called "Africa Cave". Because its shape is very similar to the African continent, it has become a popular cave on social media. Nowadays, a high ticket price is required to enter. The power of the Internet has benefited the local people.
After leaving the internet-famous cave and putting our luggage at the Tangier Hotel, we couldn’t wait to get to the Strait of Gibraltar, feel the evening breeze of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, and watch the sunset over the African and European continent.
As a qualified scenery dog, I must not miss the sunrise the next morning.
This small city on the Atlantic coast retains a fortress built by the Portuguese in the 15th century and has now become a town of art. Since 1978, the Mural Festival has been held in the old town of Asilah every August, where artists from all over the world gather to showcase their creative ideas. It is said that only the best murals will be preserved.
Walking into the old town of Asilah, you will see clean stone brick streets and the crisp sound of waves hitting the rocks. Blue and white are the main colors here, and interesting strokes or small illustrations can be seen everywhere on the streets. It has some unexpected surprises and cleanliness compared to the blue Chefchaouen, and it also has more artistic atmosphere than the thousand-year-old city of Fez. It is my favorite city of the whole trip. Every alley will bring a different visual and experience.
Today is the penultimate day of the trip, and after a few days of getting familiar with each other, everyone is gradually letting go...
Morocco's capital isn't Casablanca, the largest city, but Rabat, just north of it. While the roads are much wider and cleaner, Rabat, with only one high-rise building, lacks the luxury of the capital and is more like a low-key city like Beijing. We didn't have much time to visit Kasbah of the Oudayas, a seaside castle in Lower Rabat. It was also the filming location for Mission Impossible. The castle, renovated to look like new, lacks some of its historical charm.
The most important and most intuitive feeling of the trip to Morocco is the locals' fear and rejection of cameras. Local legend has it that cameras can capture people's souls, so whenever they see you pick up a camera to take pictures of locals, they will refuse or avoid you, or even scold you. Cameras have only been invented for about a hundred years, which shows that religion still has a certain rejection of the development of some new things.
I knew there would be some rejection before I came, but after the trip, I found that most young people were willing to take photos, and some were even willing to take photos together. The elderly, especially some women, were more resistant, so I need to pay attention.
Morocco uses the Dirham. Exchange points can be found on the roadside in every major city. US dollars and Euros are widely accepted. A tried to withdraw money from TM, but was charged a handling fee of 35 Dirhams per transaction, which was not cost-effective.
Due to the large number of European and American tourists, local tourism costs are still very high. Roadside toilets charge 2 dirhams per use, which is about 1.5 yuan. Charging 1 yuan in China would be met with criticism, but this is probably due to the local water shortage. Souvenir prices fluctuate greatly, and you'll need to bargain a lot. Generally, the prices charged by the sellers are quite high. Prices in Chefchaouen are generally normal, while those in Fez are quite high.
Mainly Arabic, but also French, English, Spanish, etc.
I am not a person who has high expectations for food. When I came to Morocco, I also felt the lack of food here. After eating local food such as tagine, couscous, kebabs, etc. for 1-2 days, I gradually lost my appetite. In comparison, Hangzhou is not a foodie place. Finally, the Chinese meal in Casablanca unexpectedly became the best meal of the whole trip.
My most profound impression of Morocco was its rich variety of tourist resources. There were the coastal resorts of Asilah, Essaouira, and Tangier, the thousand-year-old cities of Fez and Marrakech, the small town of Chefchaouen, perfect for elopements, the vast Sahara Desert, ancient Roman ruins, various ancient cities, and traditional villages. While the drive was long, every day offered unexpected surprises. With tourism in Morocco having just resumed this year and the number of Chinese tourists still relatively low, I highly recommend you embark on your trip now.
