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"So close, so beautiful, I'll head to Hebei for the weekend." The extensive high-speed rail network makes transportation within the Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei region incredibly convenient. This year, we took advantage of a two- or three-day weekend to explore many parts of Hebei. In late October, in the depths of autumn, we returned to Chengde to explore the "Rehe" back garden of the Qing Dynasty imperial family.
Chengde, also known as "Rehe," gets its name from the renowned Chengde Mountain Resort. The hot springs within the resort flow into the Wulie River, keeping the river thawed in winter and causing steam to rise, hence the name "Rehe." Chengde's most famous cultural and tourist attraction is the Mountain Resort and its surrounding buildings, built during the Qing Dynasty. As a crucial hub connecting Beijing, Tianjin, Hebei, Liaoning, and Inner Mongolia, Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty built the Rehe Palace (also known as the Mountain Resort). Subsequent Qing emperors frequently visited the resort during the summer, seeking refuge from the heat, hunting, and meeting with northern ethnic minority leaders. It became a vital "royal back garden" of the Qing dynasty.
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Chengde is a city brimming with vitality and vigor. A landscape garden city characterized by "blue skies, green land, verdant mountains, picturesque waters, refreshing air, smooth roads, clean cities, and harmonious people" is gradually shedding its veil of shyness and presenting itself beautifully to the world. This beautiful and magical land of Chengde boasts numerous "world records": the world's largest imperial garden, the world's largest imperial temple complex, the world's largest imperial hunting grounds, the world's largest wooden Buddha, the world's shortest river, and unique stone pillars. The Chengde Mountain Resort, my country's largest imperial garden, boasts a simple and elegant style and meticulously laid out layout. The resort boasts lush greenery, picturesque scenery, and a diverse yet harmonious blend of architectural styles.
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Today, Chengde's Mountain Resort and its surrounding temples are one of China's top ten scenic spots and a national key scenic area. They are also listed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. In late autumn, the forests here are dyed in colors, the sun is shining brightly, and it presents a charming autumn scene.
When talking about Chengde, Hebei, many people probably immediately think of the Chengde Mountain Resort. Indeed, the Mountain Resort, also known as the "Rehe Palace," and its surrounding temples are perhaps Chengde's most famous historical sites, and as a whole, they are listed as a World Cultural Heritage.
Built during the reign of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty, the Chengde Mountain Resort served as the Qing emperor's summer palace. The emperor would spend extended periods of time here, hunting, escaping the heat, and receiving leaders of northern ethnic minorities.
The Chengde Mountain Resort is broadly divided into a palace area and a garden area. The palace area served as the emperor's residence for meetings, work, and rest, while the garden area is further divided into plains, mountains, and lakes. The plains, dotted with yurts of varying sizes, served as venues for large-scale events. The mountain area, like a winding wall (including a ridge with a chariot wall), protected the resort.
The essence of the villa lies in its lake area, home to eight lakes of varying sizes: West Lake, Cheng Lake, Ruyi Swimming Lake, Upper Lake, Lower Lake, Silver Lake, Mirror Lake, and Half Moon Lake, collectively known as the Sai Lakes. The islands are staggered and winding, their architectural style reminiscent of Jiangnan gardens. For example, the Misty Rain Tower is modeled after the Misty Rain Tower on Nanhu Lake in Jiaxing, Zhejiang, while Jinshan Island is inspired by Jinshan Island in Zhenjiang, Jiangsu. In late autumn, the forests are ablaze with color, the water shimmers, and the sun shines brightly. Walking through the villa is like stepping into a painting, a delight that will leave you reluctant to leave.
1. Enter the Summer Resort from the Lizheng Gate and first explore the Palace area, now a museum. This was where the Qing Dynasty emperors met guests, worked, and rested in Chengde. You can see exhibits of Qing Dynasty porcelain, clocks, and other furnishings.
After touring the palace area, turn left downhill to the mountain bus boarding point. Tickets are 60 yuan per person and are recommended, as the 7-8 km circuit is quite strenuous. The bus runs on a rolling basis, just like the bus, and stops at three stops. The first stop offers a panoramic view of Chengde City. The second stop offers the best views, as you can climb the city wall to the north and overlook the Putuo Zongcheng Temple, the "Little Potala Palace," and the Xumi Fushou Temple, the "Panchen Lama's Palace," as well as Qingchui Mountain in the distance. The third stop is Qingfeng Green Island, home to a vast expanse of maple trees with the best views of the red leaves, and a distant view of the Mountain Resort.
The mountain bus stops near the Shuixinxie section of the Summer Resort. Here, you can enjoy a self-guided boat tour, a purely sightseeing dragon boat ride, or simply stroll along the lakeside. The architecture here is a replica of Jiangnan gardens, and in late autumn, the scene is a dazzling spectacle.
Standing on the city wall on the hill of Chengde Mountain Resort and looking down, you can see a building complex that looks like the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet - this is the Putuo Zongcheng Temple, known as the "Little Potala Palace" ("Putuo Zongcheng" is the Chinese translation of the Tibetan word "Potala"), one of the famous "Outer Eight Temples" in Chengde, and an important part of the world cultural heritage "Chengde Mountain Resort and its surrounding temples".
The Putuo Zongcheng Temple was built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty to celebrate the 60th birthday of Emperor Qianlong and the 80th birthday of Empress Dowager Chongqing. Its construction was modeled after the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, so it is well-deserved to be called the "Little Potala Palace".
This temple, built into a mountainside, faces south and covers a vast area. The front section features the mountain gate, stele pavilion, and five-tower gate; the middle section features a glazed memorial archway, white platform, and monks' quarters; and the rear section houses the main building, the Dahongtai, and surrounding structures, totaling over 60 in total. Tibetan-style red and white structures are scattered throughout, with the highest point being the 43-meter-tall Dahongtai, the main structure.
Arriving at Putuo Zongcheng Temple in late autumn, the sun was shining brightly, the autumn breeze was refreshing, and the flat-roofed, white, watchtower-style buildings, rich in Tibetan style, nestled amidst a vibrant sea of red leaves, truly felt like being transported to Tibet. Climbing the stairs, I came upon the majestic Red Terrace, surrounded by three-story buildings. In the center of the podium stood the "Wanfa Guiyi" Hall, with its double-eaved, pointed roof and gilded copper tiles. Its gleaming golden roof was a dazzling sight.
Emperor Qianlong visited Putuo Zongcheng Temple several times. When the Torghut tribe returned eastward, he met with their leader, Wubaxi, and his entourage in the Wanfa Guiyi Hall of the temple. Two stone tablets in the temple, "Record of the Complete Surrender of the Torghuts" and "Record of Favorable Treatment for the Torghut People," commemorate this event. Tip: A combined ticket for Putuo Zongcheng Temple and Xumi Fushou Temple costs 80 yuan per person. Free electric shuttles run between the two locations, and the walk only takes a few minutes.
Not far to the east of the Putuo Zongcheng Temple, the famous "Little Potala Palace" in Chengde, there is a temple complex built in the style of Tibetan temples - this is the Xumi Fu Shou Temple, built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty (1780). It is the latest of the "Eight Outer Temples" in Chengde and is also part of the world cultural heritage "Chengde Mountain Resort and Surrounding Temples".
The Xumi Temple of Longevity and Bliss was built by Emperor Qianlong to welcome the Sixth Panchen Lama to his 70th birthday. Modeled after the Panchen Lama's residence, Tashilhunpo Monastery, it is also known as the "Panchen Lama's Palace." Compared to the adjacent "Little Potala Palace," the Xumi Temple of Longevity and Bliss combines the architectural features of both Tibetan and Han monasteries. Its main building, the Dahongtai, is located at the center of the temple. The imperial stele in the stele pavilion is the only one among Chengde's "Outer Eight Temples" to feature a stone tablet with a bixi (a type of ox-bearing lion) carved into it, highlighting its uniqueness.
The Xumi Fushou Temple is also largely built according to the mountain's terrain. North of the glazed archway lies the main structure, the Dahongtai. The Miaogao Zhuangyan Hall, located in the center of the courtyard enclosed by the Dahongtai's podium, was the venue for the Sixth Panchen Lama's lectures. Most striking of all, the hall features a double-eaved, pointed roof covered in gilded copper fish-scale tiles. Each of the four ridges is adorned with two gilded copper dragons, one above and one below. The majestic and powerful form of the dragons creates a sense of grandeur.
At the northernmost and highest point of the Xumi Fushou Temple is the octagonal glazed Wanshou Pagoda. Its base is surrounded by a wooden corridor, topped with yellow glazed tiles, and the tower's facades are constructed with green glazed bricks, creating a unique and picturesque scene.
The most convenient way to get to know a city is to visit its museums. Chengde, rich in history and culture, boasts a unique collection of museums. The Chengde Museum is located north of the Chengde Mountain Resort, close to the Putuo Zongcheng Temple, also known as the "Little Potala Palace," and the Xumi Fushou Temple. The museum's design is unique. Due to height restrictions, the museum features a sunken courtyard with a simple layout, "hidden" underground, creating an artistic atmosphere.
As the location of the Rehe Palace of the Qing Dynasty, Chengde is also rich in cultural relics. The Chengde Museum has a collection of many national first-class cultural relics. The collections and displays here mainly revolve around the Summer Palace, Buddhist culture, the lives of the emperors and empresses of the Qing Dynasty, and ethnic exchanges. The following cultural relics are treasures that cannot be missed when visiting the Chengde Museum.
Iron Scepter: This Qin Dynasty artifact was unearthed at the ancient city site of Xiaozuizi Mountain in Longtoushan Township, Weichang County. The iron scepter is semicircular in shape, with a slightly flattened top and a curved knob. A round hole at the bottom houses an iron ingot. The entire scepter bears an inscribed edict from Qin Shi Huang, inscribed in Li Si's small seal script: "In the twenty-sixth year, the Emperor will annex all the feudal lords and common people under heaven. He will establish the title of Emperor. He will then order the Prime Minister to review all laws, measures, and regulations, clarifying any discrepancies." This is a rare Qin Dynasty artifact.
Jin Dynasty Bronze Distillery Pot: This is a national first-class cultural relic, dating back 800 years. Made of brass, the pot features a cooler on the top and a steamer on the bottom, forming a nested structure with a very scientific construction and method of use.
Qing Dynasty Rosewood Pagoda with Copper Enamel: This is a first-class national cultural relic and a breathtaking treasure. Standing over three meters tall, the enamel pagoda is impressive and exquisitely crafted. It consists of a roof, a main body, a Sumeru pedestal, and a base. The roof is shaped like a vase, flanked by flowing ribbons, and the spire features a cross-shaped vajra.
The tower body is divided into three styles from top to bottom. Except for the top three domes, the eaves of each other layer have a copper gilt dragon head and four ridge beasts. A copper bell is hung under the eaves. The beams, brackets, railings, and niches are painted with various decorative patterns such as flaming beads, twined flowers, "Shou" characters, Kuilong patterns, etc., which are very exquisite.
A Qing Dynasty rosewood three-story pavilion-style nine-Buddha shrine: This is also a national first-class cultural relic, displayed alongside a bronze enamel pagoda in the "Looking at the Great Wall Inside and Outside: A Record of National Unity During the Prosperous Qing Dynasty" exhibition hall. The shrine is nearly one meter tall and constructed in the style of a three-story pavilion with a hipped roof. The shrine is topped with a Tibetan vase-shaped dome, flanked by silk ribbons. It features a chiwen (gargoyle), horn beasts, and brackets. Each shrine bears identical inscriptions in Manchu, Chinese, Mongolian, and Tibetan.
Transportation: It is very convenient to get to Chengde from Beijing. It only takes 1 hour by high-speed rail from Beijing Chaoyang Station to Chengde South Station.
Accommodation: We stayed at the Atour Hotel, which is located not far from the Mountain Resort. It's only a few hundred meters from the Lizheng Gate, a 10-minute walk away. The area surrounding the hotel is also bustling, with convenient dining, shopping, and transportation.
Food: Chengde’s local mutton soup is very famous. In addition, casserole and Manchu eight bowls are also good choices.
