Live Your Best Lives
When you think of islands, what comes to mind? Phuket's sunny beaches? Hawaii's bonfire hula dances? Or perhaps a relaxing retreat at a Balinese resort?
Compared to the luxurious resorts of the Maldives or the exotic charm of Bali, the islands of our Japanese and Korean neighbors—Okinawa and Jeju—indulge in a sense of natural intimacy.
Their seas, hills, and towns exude a fresh and clean atmosphere, and people live a simple and leisurely life, while maintaining the order, cleanliness, and safety that a developed country should have.
One is a visa-free island in a visa-free country, and the other is the "Hawaii of Japan" where you can enjoy simplified multiple visa processing
. Both are outlying islands of two small East Asian countries, but they have completely different personalities.
Jeju Island's undeniable advantage among short-haul destinations is its high cost-performance ratio.
Visa-free travel and airfares as low as three figures already surpass those of many islands in East Asia and even Asia. With arrival times of just 2+ hours from Shanghai and excellent value for money accommodation, traveling abroad can sometimes be more convenient than leaving your province.
Add to that the filter of old Korean dramas and variety shows, like the heroine of "My Name is Kim Sam-soon" who, on her 30th birthday, decided to give up her contracted relationship with Jin-hyun and climbed up Hallasan Mountain in the rain, talking to herself all the way. There's also "Dae Jang Geum" that brought the Folk Village Museum to the forefront, "Full House"'s Yongduam, and the goddess' idyllic life in "Hyori's Homestay"...
Nowadays, celebrities still check out Jeju Island's food and drink spots, and fans flock to try them out.
In comparison, Jeju Island's topography is relatively simple: a flat, oval shape, with towering Hallasan Mountain in its center. Jeju City and Seogwipo City lie to the north and south coasts, respectively. Seongsan Ilchulbong, a World Heritage Site, is nestled on the east coast. Sunlight streams across the vibrant, lush grasslands. Amidst a thin mist, two or three ponies graze, their tails wagging, as they watch groups of tourists from all corners of the world ascend a volcano rising from the sea.
At the summit of Hallasan Mountain, a 600-meter-diameter circular crater appears, resembling a giant oyster frolicking in the water when viewed from above. Dotted off to the east, west, and south are several small outlying islands: Udo Island, where you can admire fields of rapeseed flowers; Gapado Island, with its man-sized wheat fields; Marado Island, where you can enjoy fragrant jajangmyeon; and Chuja Island, home to the Yellow Croaker Food Festival.
Jeju Island is known as the "Hawaii" of Koreans. Koreans love visiting it so much that the flight density between Seoul and Jeju Island is one of the "busiest domestic routes in the world." And our deepest impression of Jeju Island is its proud "Jelly Sea."
Having visited Jeju Island no fewer than ten times, I can reliably assure you that its beauty is far more than just its "jelly sea."
Azure seas and skies, lush greenery and flowers, flocks of seagulls, and reeds lining the mountains—that's how Lonely Planet describes it. It has everything other islands have, and more.
Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes, designated a World Heritage Site, includes a system of lava tubes; Ilchulbong Peak, a conical tuff-shaped peak; and Hallasan Mountain, South Korea's highest peak, known for its waterfalls, diverse rock formations, and crater lakes. In 2010, nine geological sites, including Hallasan Mountain and Manjanggul Cave, were designated World Geoparks by UNESCO.
Beyond its natural wonders, Jeju Island's even more precious "living fossils" are its Haenyeo (Haenyeo), or women divers. Fewer than 4,000 Haenyeo remain, 84% of whom are at least 60 years old. In 2016, UNESCO inscribed Jeju Island's Haenyeo culture on its Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
The 437-kilometer Olle Trail, a hiking route that circumnavigates Jeju Island and complements its natural beauty, is a must-do for Koreans. The world-renowned UTMB ultra-trail race series also takes place on Jeju Island. Active Traveller Magazine, a renowned British outdoor magazine, once named the Olle Trail one of the world's top ten most popular coastal hiking routes, the only one in Asia to be included. The Olle Trail is considered the crown jewel of Jeju Island.
A host of scenic spots and several outlying islands are scattered across the island like sesame seeds, so evenly spread out that it's a bit crazy. For first-timers to Jeju, staying in the city is the best option. Jeju Island doesn't have a well-connected subway, but it does have a fairly developed public transportation system. How extensive is that?
For example, the western route from downtown to Aewol-eup to Sajae Beach has over 60 stops, but don't be intimidated; it doesn't stop at every stop, so it takes just over an hour.
For the eastern route, taking a downtown bus typically requires a transfer, and while there are only about 20 stops, it still takes nearly two hours. Joining a small group charter might offer a much better experience.
I believe the best way to travel Jeju Island isn't to dwell on the sights.
Whether heading east or west, rent a bicycle and slowly cycle along the coast, enjoying the sea breeze and sunshine. You might stumble upon a roadside cafe or small restaurant. Inside, huge floor-to-ceiling windows reflect the jelly-like sea beneath the blue sky. Find a window seat, order a pour-over coffee, and gaze out. The laughter of tourists and the music in the cafe will sway your heart, and the wind and waves will shake your eyes.
As outlying islands of developed East Asian nations, many people often compare Okinawa and Jeju Island. However, I'd argue that these two destinations offer completely different travel experiences.
As we all know, Okinawa was once part of the Ryukyu Kingdom. In 1429, King Sho Hashima unified the various tribal states and officially established the Ryukyu Kingdom. The Ryukyu paid tribute to the Ming Dynasty, relying on trade as the foundation of their nation. They also invited numerous scholars and craftsmen from Fujian to study Chinese culture and technology.
Okinawa Prefecture comprises three large island groups from north to south: the Okinawa Islands, the Miyako Islands, and the Yaeyama Islands. If you're an island enthusiast like me and have some free time, you'll definitely want to explore the unique charm of each island.
The charm of the largest Okinawa Island is beyond words. The tropical mountains at the northern end offer the pleasure of walking through a tropical rainforest. The coastal paradise in the middle has numerous seaside resorts where you can lie back and enjoy the sea. The Naha metropolitan area in the south is the core of the entire Okinawa. It has shopping malls, pedestrian streets and food that are comparable to those on the main island of Japan. No matter where you go, you can support a rich and happy vacation.
On Zamami Island, just west of Okinawa's main island, I encountered the clearest waters I've ever seen. Like a piece of transparent glass with a hint of emerald green, it clung to the golden sand. The area wasn't crowded, so rent a parasol, snorkeling goggles, and a life jacket and enjoy the colorful corals and fish at any time, or just kick back for a lazy nap.
To experience the charm of the ancient Ryukyu Kingdom, visit Shuri Castle in Naha City and the "Ryukyu Wind Experience Kingdom" in Yomitan Village.
Shuri Castle, perched atop Mount Shuri, is a fortress-style palace that blends traditional Chinese and Japanese architectural features. Its wooden structure was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt in 1992. Ascending the stone steps is reminiscent of the Potala Palace in Lhasa.
Standing in the imperial gardens of Shurijo Castle, overlooking Naha Harbor, one can imagine the former Ryukyu king gazing upon the tribute ships returning laden with the wind. Every year at the end of October, the "Ryukyu Dynasty Festival" is held here, recreating the enthronement ceremony of the Ryukyu king by the Qing envoys and the king's tour to the temples to offer sacrifices to the heavens. Despite a fire in 2019, the restored wooden joints reveal the secrets of the artisans' technique of mixing lacquer with awamori sake. Now open to the public, it's recommended to rent AR glasses to virtually recreate the court music and dance of King Sho Shin's era.
Okinawa, sharing the same latitude as Hawaii, is often called the "Hawaii of Japan"! With world-class sunshine and azure waters, Okinawa exudes a captivating sense of relaxation.
Unlike Jeju Island, which offers a more casual approach to marine activities, Okinawa's outlying islands are almost exclusively for serious sea enthusiasts, boasting some of Asia's top diving spots. The ocean is rich in resources, and the waters are incredibly beautiful. Even a stroll along the beach can instantly wash away worries with the sea breeze.
The beauty of the ocean is only one side of Okinawa. As a "familiar stranger" to Chinese culture, Okinawa has been repeatedly criticized by Japanese netizens as the "least Japanese city," and Okinawans are often mocked as "completely un-Japanese."
Not only is the logic of the Okinawan dialect completely different from the standard language of Honshu, but the mentality of Okinawans is also starkly different from that of most Japanese. They drink until they're completely drunk during the day, work far less than they rest, and are warm, welcoming, and free-spirited. Locals say: Okinawa is an open island, and they hate feeling confined!
Okinawa boasts over 100 islands, and Kouri Island is perhaps the most romantic.
A circular outlying island with a diameter of approximately 8 kilometers, it is connected to the main island by the 1,960-meter-long Kouri Bridge. Surrounded by emerald waters and white sandy beaches, the waters boast a transparency of up to 30 meters, making it a popular spot for marine activities such as snorkeling and SUP (stand-up paddle boarding).
The iconic Heart Rock, formed by two natural reefs, is considered a "holy place of love" due to its heart-like shape and is home to the Ryukyu version of the Adam and Eve creation myth. The island retains traditional stone dwellings and sugarcane fields. Kouri Ocean Tower on the northwest coast offers 360-degree panoramic views and is renowned for its nighttime stargazing.
Cape Chinen Park, surrounded by the sea on three sides, offers a 270-degree panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean. The interplay of lush greenery, azure sea, and blue sky creates a scene straight out of a Hayao Miyazaki manga.
Manzamo in central Okinawa boasts a "grassland that could seat 10,000 people." True to its name, the natural grassland here stretches endlessly, extending to the land's edge. Beyond, the sea meets the sky, creating a quartet of sea, grassland, cliffs, and blue sky.
Churaumi Aquarium is undoubtedly a must-see in central Okinawa. 8.8-meter-long whale sharks dance with you through the window in front of the world's largest acrylic glass, the "Kuroshio Sea." A secret moment: After the 3:00 PM feeding show, the keepers open the top observation deck to witness the Tyndall effect created by sunlight penetrating 10 meters of water.
Besides the ocean, Naha's city center is also well worth a visit.
The bustling Kokusai-dori, the resort's central business district, is a bustling 24-hour street that never sleeps. Besides numerous international chain stores, you'll also find plenty of local specialty shops, often offering free awamori.
If the sea is the background color of Okinawa, then the music lingering in the souls of Okinawans must be the shamisen. There are many taverns in Kokusai-dori where you can enjoy live performances of Okinawan folk songs. A soul-stirring song of the sea, paired with a glass of Ryukyu Awamori, the taste of the sea stirs in your mouth and seeps into your soul.
When the shimmering jelly sea meets the vermilion Ryukyu palace, and when the modern civilization of the US military base collides with the ancient music of the shamisin, Okinawa weaves Japan's most unique island narrative poem with the blue-green gradient of the coral sea and the century-old houses with red tiles and white walls.
