Changting Wetland - Even rainy days have a special charm.
by Kopi Chaser
Sep 5, 2025
Tingjiang Night Tour|Pushing a pole under the moonlight, I unexpectedly returned to the thousand-year-old Tingzhou in a painting
If the ancient city of Changting by day is a thick history book, then the Tingjiang night tour is an immersive dream traveling through a thousand years. Buying a boat ticket, I unexpectedly fell into the scroll of "A Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains." This journey is worth savoring for a lifetime.
Before boarding: The lively atmosphere of the ancient city is the best prologue
It is recommended to arrive at the dock half an hour early and not rush to board. The dock is right at the foot of the ancient city wall. Walking slowly along the stone path by the Tingjiang River, you will discover countless surprises.
Lanterns on the shore are already lit, their warm yellow glow reflecting on the river like scattered gold flakes. An old lady selling Changting dried tofu pushes her cart calling out, while the air is filled with the sweet aroma of Hakka rice wine and the savory scent of fried potato cakes.
The light strips on the ancient city wall outline the characters "Tingzhou," especially striking in the night. At this moment, it feels as if the city gate from a thousand years ago has just opened, waiting for us "returnees" to enter.
During the night tour: The boat moves on the water, and people wander in the painting
As the boat slowly leaves the dock, the whole world instantly quiets down, leaving only the splash of oars and the faint sound of distant Hakka mountain songs.
I chose an open-air seat on the second floor. Although a bit chilly, the view is excellent. I suggest bringing a shawl, which can keep you warm and serve as a prop for photos.
Act One: Lights as brushes, the river as the scroll
The boat turns the first bend, and a dynamic "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" suddenly unfolds before my eyes.
The ancient buildings on the shore are carefully sculpted by lights; flying eaves, carved beams, and painted rafters are clearly visible in the night. The most stunning part is "Shuidong Street," where the arcade buildings on both sides are illuminated by warm red lights, and candlelight flickers through the windows, as if you can see merchants from a thousand years ago discussing business in teahouses and women sewing by the window.
Lotus lanterns occasionally float on the river, carrying wishes from couples. The lights reflected in the water blend with the moon in the sky, making it hard to tell where the sky ends and the water begins.
Act Two: Culture as the soul, stories as the charm
Don’t just focus on taking photos; the narration on the boat is the essence. The boatman and guide is a native of Changting, speaking Mandarin with a Hakka accent, vividly telling the stories of Tingzhou.
He points to a distant tower and says it is the "Sanyuan Pavilion," built in the Tang Dynasty, witnessing the rise and fall of Tingzhou city. Then he points to a cluster of ancient residences on the shore, saying this was once the "Prefectural School" in the Song Dynasty, which cultivated countless scholars and poets.
The most touching part is the explanation in front of the "Mother’s Affection" sculpture. The sculpture depicts a Hakka mother holding her child, her eyes gentle yet resolute. The guide says the Tingjiang River is the "mother river" of the Hakka people; many Hakka have set out from here to explore the world and returned with homesickness.
Hearing this, looking at the shimmering river surface, I suddenly felt a deeper weight.
Act Three: Interaction as fun, fully immersed
Midway through the boat ride, a Hakka girl sings mountain songs on the shore. "Bright moonlight shines on the hall, sister waits for brother to return home..." The sweet singing drifts over the river, and the passengers can’t help but hum along.
Some boats also prepare Hakka rice wine and Changting dried tofu, allowing you to taste local specialties on board. I took a small sip of rice wine; the warm liquid slid down my throat, warming my whole body.
The biggest surprise is when the boat passes an ancient bridge, fireworks suddenly light up on the bridge. Although small, the fireworks are stunning against the night and river scenery, making people scream with delight.
After disembarking: Still craving more, seeking fireworks again
When the boat docks, I am still immersed in the dream just experienced, unable to come back to reality quickly.
After getting off, be sure to visit the "Tingzhou Examination Hall" next to the dock. At night, the hall is free from daytime noise, and lanterns illuminate the ancient cypress trees in the courtyard, as if you can see the scholars studying late into the night by lamplight.
If you still want more, you can sit in a small tavern in the ancient city. Order a "Tingjiang Night" special cocktail, listen to the resident singer perform Hakka folk songs, and watch pedestrians passing by outside the window. You will feel like you have truly become part of the ancient city of Tingzhou.
This Tingjiang night tour is not just sightseeing but a dialogue with history. When the lights come on, when the mountain songs play, when the boat glides across the river, I feel as if I have truly returned to the prosperous era of "Ten Li Changting."
If you want to experience this romance and depth, you must come to the Tingjiang night tour. Trust me, this will be the most unforgettable memory of your trip.
Post by MathildeAndersen | Oct 21, 2025













