Yamugou(亚木沟)| Enjoy the nature
by Ketty Zhong
Oct 29, 2021
Guizhou's landscapes always hide surprises. As I rounded the 99th bend on the mountain road, a cluster of stilted houses gently caressed by mist suddenly came into view—the Heart of Mountains Homestay unexpectedly became the most breathtaking highlight of my Fanjing journey.
The moment I pushed open the carved wooden door, the fresh scent of pine greeted me. This century-old stilt house transformed into a homestay perfectly preserves the wisdom of mortise-and-tenon construction. Drawing the curtains at dawn, Mount Fanjing emerges faintly through the sea of clouds like an ink painting.
Each building holds its secrets: some with stargazing terraces, others with tea ceremony spaces, but my favorite is the matcha reading nook hidden in the bamboo grove. Afternoon sunlight filters through the lattice windows, casting dappled shadows on the tatami as I lose myself in "Notes from a Mountain Dwelling"—time seems to stretch like mountain breeze.
The Mount Fanjing scenic area is just a 15-minute drive away. I recommend catching the early sightseeing bus (first at 7:30 AM) straight to the cable car station when the mist still lingers, making the Red Cloud Golden Peak appear like a floating fairyland.
Don't miss the hidden gem of Yamu Valley on your descent. Follow the emerald stream past over 30 cascading waterfalls forming nature's air-conditioned rooms. Take off your shoes at "Jade Dragon Pool"—the icy mountain springs wash away all weariness. Locals told me if you visit after rainy season, you might witness the rare "Rainbow Waterfall" phenomenon.
Back at the homestay, the aroma of sour soup from the kitchen makes me devour three bowls of rice without hesitation. After dinner, try rattan tea—a wild tea unique to Mount Fanjing whose lingering sweetness carries the fragrance of the entire mountain.
As dusk falls, the caretaker lights the courtyard lanterns. Rocking on the terrace chair watching fireflies paint light trails over rice fields, I suddenly understand why people say: Guizhou's most luxurious scenery is time slowed down.
Tips:
- Homestay offers tea-picking/batik experiences (book in advance)
- Bring water shoes for Yamu Valley (no food inside)
- West Gate route to Mount Fanjing is more primitive (5-hour hike)
- Best in May (rhododendron season) or September (sea of clouds season)
As the city fades into a distant blur behind me, every roof tile here whispers ancient tales of mountains and people.
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