[Mukaishima] (Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, former province name: Aki)

＜The northern end of the Shimanami Kaido, where the charms of the sea, sky, and craft come together; dynamic nature and urban history coexist＞

Of the six islands that make up the so-called Shimanami Kaido, Mukaishima is located at the northernmost position. It is only 300m away from the port of Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture, and the strait that separates the two is like a river. It is literally between the two islands, and the islanders travel between the island and Onomichi City by the shortest boat trip in Japan, which takes just over five minutes. Due to this geographical condition, Mukaishima and Onomichi have a history that is like a community of shared destiny. During the Sengoku period, it became the main base of the Murakami pirates based in Innoshima, which is located to the south, and cooperated with the Mori clan, the rulers of the Chugoku region. As soon as Onomichi developed into a key port for the Hiroshima domain in the Edo period, salt fields were opened one after another on Mukaishima, and the salt produced on the island was loaded onto trading ships on the westward route from Onomichi Port. Today, the salt fields have disappeared, but instead, large shipyards cover the coast, and their thriving status can be seen from the Onomichi side.

On the other hand, in the southern part of the island, facing away from Onomichi, there is a series of rock cliffs, and their dynamic shapes remind us of the active movement of the earth. As we drive up the mountainside of one of these rocky mountains, Mount Takami, a sign for "USHIO CHOCOLATL" suddenly appears. It feels quite out of place in the mountains, where there are few houses, but when we drive further, we come across a public facility called "Tachibana Nature Utilization Village Management Center". Our doubts only grow stronger, but when we go around to the front entrance of the building from the parking lot, we are captivated by the magnificent view of the Seto Inland Sea that opens up. Looking back at the building, the color and material are reminiscent of an elementary school building, but instead of being deserted, what catches our eye is a "ghost." Its unique color scheme and appearance reminds one of the signs and cheers made for a school festival, and the sense of incongruity changes to an exquisite excitement.
Following the ghost's guidance, we proceeded upstairs to a corner that had a strange and strong presence in the quiet building. This was the factory of USHIO CHOCOLATL (photos 1-7), where you can not only shop, but also enjoy specially made cacao lattes and other drinks in the cafe space. When you look into the chocolates in the refrigerated showcase, the first thing that will surprise you is their rich design. The neatly lined chocolates are all in the shape of regular hexagons, each with an exotic pattern and coloring. USHIO CHOCOLATL is purely creative chocolate. Although the ingredients are only cacao beans and sugar, by directly talking to the producers, you can gain a deeper understanding of the background of the flavor, such as by who, where, and with what feelings the cacao beans were produced. And packaging is one way to combine and launch these elements. By using different artists for the design of each flavor, it seems to embody the charm of the original yet diverse world itself. The techniques and excitement unique to "craft chocolate" are truly conveyed.

When you descend Mt. Takami and reach the Tachibana district at the foot of the mountain, the pale colored sea of ​​Seto Inland Sea spreads out at the same height as the road, and you can see a magnificent view like a tropical resort. "WILLOWS NURSERY" (photos 8-10) further enhances that feeling. It is a pancake specialty store that has been attracting attention recently. The pancakes are made with completely pesticide-free wheat from Hokkaido and seasoned with locally grown citrus fruits, and have a refined taste with a restrained sweetness. The volume is light compared to its appearance, so you can eat it slowly without straining yourself. The shop is like a hut standing in the shade of a large acorn tree. Its cute form and design, as well as the seats on the warm grass, are filled with features that make you feel at ease just by being there, and it's easy to see why so many tourists now drive along the Shimanami Kaido to this shop. The fact that the energetic nature, serene scenery, and above all the "craft" creativity that makes use of these elements exists adjacent to one of Hiroshima Prefecture's leading cities is a symbolic reality that is also part of the charm of the Shimanami Kaido itself. Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!)

Visited: 3rd Sunday in May around 2pm

Access: 10 minutes by car from Mukojima IC (to USHIO CHOCOLATL)

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | May 25, 2024