Checking in at a niche architectural spot on a rainy day

First, the transportation:
Take Metro Line 4 to the terminus Tongli Station, exit at Gate 9, and you’ll see it right away. Transfer to the Zhigu tram, which is specially for tourists heading to Tongli. It runs every 20 minutes, and the trip takes just over 10 minutes.

At the station, there are WeChat and Alipay navigation guides for the Zhigu tram. Boarding and ticket purchase are free, with zero fare.

Arriving at the north entrance, follow the signs; the first attraction is the Pearl Pagoda Scenic Garden.

Ticket price: 100 RMB.

Suzhou Leisure Annual Card holders enter free.

It’s already autumn, the weather is just right, with a gentle breeze—not too hot or cold—perfect for going out and exploring.

In just one night, on the metro, short sleeves have become rare; most people have switched to long sleeves, some even wearing thicker two-piece sets, all reminding us that autumn has truly arrived.

Last time I visited Tongli, the branches by the bridge were full of golden loquats, welcoming visitors. Now, though it’s autumn, there’s no sign of withering or falling leaves; the greenery is still vibrant and full of life, making autumn feel even more splendid than spring.

This is a small town, not very big, but very old.

Even during the day, red lanterns light up along both sides of the river. The river isn’t wide, only a few steps across. Tall trees line both banks, their branches and leaves thick and intertwined, completely shading the river. Playful rays of light sneak through the branches, casting shimmering reflections and rippling shadows, resembling the Qinhuai River in a painting. A casual snapshot captures a beautiful scene.

Looking down from the bridge, willows brush the green water, and houses surround the river. The scene from childhood Chinese textbooks comes to life before your eyes—real green water, finally seen today. A boat passes by, small and deep in the green water, bringing the painting to life, swaying gracefully.

There are many restaurants by the green water bridge, no doubt about it.

Along the riverbank, tents are set up densely, one next to another, tables fully arranged with no gaps, yet it doesn’t feel crowded.

Most tables have casually placed flowers, each different, creating their own unique scenery.

One thing in common is that every table is set with a tea set, a Jiangnan custom. When guests arrive, a pot of tea is brewed first before anything else. After all, Suzhou’s Biluochun tea is famous.

Each shop has a large signboard in front, displaying signature dishes, and seasonal vegetables change with the seasons. Dishes like Zhuangyuan Pig’s Trotters, Silverfish Scrambled Eggs, White Fish and White Shrimp, Gorgon Fruit with Shrimp, Crispy Eel Strips, Sweet Lotus Root, Water Shield and Silverfish Soup, Malan Vegetable, Water Three Fresh, and of course, Squirrel Mandarin Fish. For noodle lovers, there are even more varieties to choose from, enough to dazzle you. When it comes to food, this trip is definitely worthwhile.

This time in Tongli, my mood was completely different from last time. I wasn’t rushing to check off attractions but wandered casually, only then realizing that far fewer people were wearing Hanfu for photos; most were very relaxed. Unlike the crowded gardens in the city center, here there are fewer people but many sights.

Pearl Pagoda Scenic Garden, Gengle Garden, and Tuisiyuan Garden—all near the same river—three gardens with different scenery, all exquisitely crafted. Oh my, how did I miss this treasure town for so long?

Turning into an alley, winding stone paths and ancient Suzhou-style buildings appear, with weathered walls bearing the marks of time, passing through the years and hitting you in the face.

On a narrow one-foot window ledge, several small flower pots are tightly placed, with succulents and unknown little flowers blooming. Along the wall base, climbing roses grow on poles, covering an entire wall with flowers. Sunflowers and daisies grow together, leaning on each other. Around the corner, a few branches are casually stuck in the ground to form a fence, and just outside is a small garden. Though not inside a formal garden, every step offers a new scene, perfect for photos anywhere.

When tired, sit by the riverbank, brew a pot of tea, order some seasonal vegetables, and taste the local specialties—what a joy!

Before leaving, I’m already looking forward to coming back in another season to explore again!