Iwasehama Beach (Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture, formerly Etchu Province)

Toyama City prospered as the castle town of the Maeda clan, with a fiefdom of 100,000 koku. Along with Kanazawa, the seat of their main domain, Kaga Domain (present-day southern Ishikawa Prefecture), Toyama led the regional economy as one of the largest cities in the Hokuriku region. The domain encouraged the production of medicines and washi paper, creating a virtuous cycle for the economy, and Iwase, a port of call for the Kitamae-bune (broad-ship) trade, played a major role in this. Located approximately 9 km north of Toyama Castle, this outer port was established at the mouth of the Jinzu River, and many merchant houses dealing in shipping wholesalers and seafood lined the harbor. Among them were the "Five Great Families of Iwase," wealthy merchants who flourished. The Baba and Mori families (photos 2 and 3, currently closed as of August 2024) are particularly well-known for their prosperity. The pillars and beams of the mansion are made of enormous timber—enough to cover several arms—creating a grandiose space unattainable in an ordinary Japanese home. The exhibits and artifacts within the mansion also provide detailed information about the "mechanisms of wealth" that made these buildings a reality, thanks to the Kitamae-bune ships and the Nishiki-mawari shipping route. This makes it the perfect spot to learn about Iwase's history and unique character.

Thus, Iwase, which reached its height of prosperity during the Edo period, inevitably fell into decline as the power source shifted in the modern era. Fortunately, however, the old families survived, having escaped war damage. Amidst a society undergoing major changes, the nostalgic neighborhood, with its traditional streetscape, has retained a strong sense of the era. Iwase once lost its vitality and was in a stately decline. However, by renovating stately old houses with the sophisticated design sensibility cultivated in Toyama, it is now reinventing itself as a tourist destination. A prime example is "Shaseki" (photos 5-7). This self-standing sake bar, run by Masuda Sake Brewery, which has been in Iwase since the Meiji era, offers a relaxing experience of savoring the bar's signature sake, such as "Masuzumi." The bar offers two options: a "timed" system, where you can drink as much as you like within a set time frame, and a "fixed-rate" system, where you pay as you go using a wooden masu box. While both options are very appealing, I chose the fixed-rate system during my visit because I had plenty of time left. With over 100 different brands lined up in the refrigerated cases, it's rare to have the opportunity to see the sake brewed at a single brewery on such a large scale. Among the offerings are rare experimental samples brewed four years ago and aged in storage, making for a truly invaluable experience, like a glimpse into the heart of a sake brewery. The store is housed in a renovated warehouse that once housed a shipping wholesaler, and is decorated with objects and photographs by artists with ties to Iwase and Toyama.

In fact, the current owner of Masuda Sake Brewery actively invites young artisans, artists, and chefs to Iwase, promoting the formation of a cultural sphere rooted in the local community. He has attracted much attention as a driving force behind regional revitalization. Another spot resulting from these efforts is the "Kobo Brew Pub" (photos 1 and 8). This craft beer is brewed in a warehouse on the Baba family's property by artisans from the Czech Republic, the home of beer. The signature beer is the refreshing "Premium Pilsner," which originates from the Czech Republic. Its vibrant, almost golden hue is further accentuated by the deep shadows unique to the Japanese-style wooden architecture, creating an intriguing atmosphere. The brewery also offers a selection of beers that combine a variety of brewing methods with locally sourced ingredients, and you can try them all together as a set. The particularly heavy "Dark Lager" pairs perfectly with the mustard-dressed sausages, leaving a pleasant aftertaste that permeates the air. The single-piece table that makes a strong presence in the pub is large enough to seat 20 to 30 people, and its bold spatial design is enough to evoke the former Baba family's glory. Iwase has revived the heritage that remains in the area along with the memories of its predecessors with a modern sensibility, and has once again regained its vitality. Today, Iwase, along with its design, has every reason to attract attention as a model course for regional development in Japan. Recommended for Solo Travelers: ★★★ (There are a fair number of people, but it's a spacious area so it's not a problem.)

Visited: 1st Saturday of September, around 4 PM

Access: Approximately 8 minutes walk from Keirinjo-mae Station (to the Former Baba Family Residence and Kobo Brew Pub)

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Aug 17, 2024