Ding Zhen's hometown is beautiful, but there are even more beautiful

  • Number of days: 11 days
  • Time: September
  • Average cost: 10,000 yuan
  • With whom: With friends
  • Tour kinds: food, photography, humanities, free travel
  • The author went to these places: Kunming Lugu Lake Kangwu Temple Changhaizi Gnie Sacred Mountain Koji Tsoka Lake Daofu Jia Yi Lacuo Dangling La Longcuo
  • Updated: 2021.11.18

[Time] 2021.9.29-10.10

[Itinerary]

D0 9.29 Shanghai to Kunming, accommodation: Kunming

D1 9.30 Kunming flying to Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake - Muli County, accommodation: Muli

D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin, Accommodation: Mana Chajin

D3 10.2 Mana Chajin-Daocheng, Accommodation: Jinzhu Town

D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Genie, Xiazetong Village, Genie Zhiyan, Genie Shenshan, Accommodation: Genie Nai Ganduo Village

D5 10.4 Xinleng Ancient Temple, Laoleng Ancient Temple, Genie-Batang, Accommodation: Batang

D6 10.5 Batang-Babagou, Babahai, Dongba Village, -Gaiyu-Baiyu, Accommodation: Baiyu

D7 10.6 Baiyu-Ganbai Road-G317, Tongcui Lake, Accommodation: Ganzi

D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zai Temple, Accommodation: Xinlong

D9 10.8 Larima Township, Accommodation: Daofu

D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayi Latso, Hongmu Haizi-Dangling Village-Danba, Accommodation: Danba

D11 10.10 Danba-Xiaojin-Siguniang Mountain-Chengdu, Chengdu to Shanghai


D1 9.30 Kunming Fly Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake-Muli County, Accommodation: Mulining

Lang Lugu Lake Airport

This airport is really small, there is only a baggage carousel, but the speed is quite fast.

Lugu Lake

Lugu Lake is still so beautiful, I came here five years ago, and it was also a sunny day, the water blue was outrageous, and the water surface was like a mirror. In fact, we just want to choose a beautiful road to Muli, but as long as we pass by, we still have to charge a 70 yuan ticket, in fact, we don't charge a ticket from Muli to Lugu Lake.

Lunch: Chengdu Impression Restaurant

is a restaurant in Lugu Lake. I chose two of the three signature dishes, and the boss patted his chest and said that if he was not satisfied with the signature dishes, he didn't have to pay.

Juewei mashed potatoes, the taste is really delicate, and the taste is very good.

Diving fish, fresh and tender, delicious.

I also ate the local specialty water-based poplar flowers.

baked potatoes

It is said that by selling baked potatoes, people have bought suites, which shows how good the business is.

4 yuan a piece, very original baking method, the potatoes taste a little crispy, I still prefer the powdery one. You also have to dip some chili noodles, which are really spicy.


D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin, accommodation: Mana Chajin

Dingdong Haizi

is a mountain road that travels for more than an hour, and it is a sea of clouds from outside the valley, and the sea is shrouded in fog when it arrives.

Maybe it's because you can hear the sound of cowbells on the other side of the river, so it's called Dingdong Haizi.

When the morning fog dissipated, it was so psychedelic, from not being visible on the other side at all, to gradually becoming clear, everything just had to wait.

A shop on the side of

the road for breakfast

can't be called a store, it's just a family.

Rice noodles with fried sauce, the taste is not bad, especially the bone broth, which is particularly fresh. The corn is peeled and roasted and eaten, which is very fragrant.

The second largest temple in

the Kangwu Great Temple

Muli is actually not big, but the carving on the building is very exquisite, and the hall is gorgeous and simple. That's the trace of time.

Changhaizi

Mountain Road turned a little motion sickness, surrounded by mountains on all sides, and the water was very blue.

herdsmen's yak milk

It turns out that yak milk is naturally sweet, and the sweetness is relatively high, as if it has been added with sugar.

The butter tea here is also very fragrant, only to know that butter tea can have such a strong milky aroma, and it is the first time I have seen hand-made butter tea.

I forgot what the dairy product was called, a little sour and a little astringent, like lumpy yogurt, but it felt very nutritious.

Muli Temple

is much larger than Kangwu Temple, and it is a Huangjiao temple.

The exterior is refined, and the color inside the hall is very new, and it looks like it is often maintained and repaired.

There are many scriptures on the second floor.

There are still many ruins around the main hall.

Mana Chajin

is perfect from sunset to starry sky to sunrise.

At half past eight in the evening, the Milky Way can be clearly visible, and when you look up, the sky is full of stars, and meteors often pass by.

The sunrise of the Mana Chajin Observation Deck can see 11 snow-capped mountains above 5,000 meters above sea level at the same time, as well as three layers of cloud sea and halo belts, the C position is the famous Aden Three Sacred Mountains, from left to right are Yang Maiyong, Xiano Dorji Dongpo, and Xian Nai Ri. The price is to live in a place above 4,500 meters, no electricity, no water, no signal, really frozen into a dog, but the whole process of seeing the sunrise is really very, very shocking, the world is worth it!

The observation deck is not yet developed, so you can drive up directly.

Mana Chajin Accommodation: Tibetan house

is located at the bottom of the observation deck, about a few minutes' drive.

There are many standard rooms at home, but there is no electricity or running water, and if there are many people, it may generate electricity for two or three hours, and then you have to rely on flashlights. No electricity is actually okay, no water means you can't wash. To make matters worse, the toilet is across the road and it's a dry toilet.


D3 10.2 Mana Chajin - Daocheng, Accommodation: Jinzhu Town

The road conditions from Mana Chajin to Daocheng are not good, dusty, and have been driving halfway up the canyon, and I feel that the Shu Road is difficult.

On the way to Gnie, I met a golden forest and already felt the autumn.


D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Gnie, below is Tong Village, Gnie's Eye, Gnie Shenshan, and lodging: Gnie Nagando Village

The scenery from Daocheng to Genie is very good, and there are several observation decks along the way.

After entering Gnie, the first thing you arrived at was Xiazetong Village, which is Ding Zhen's hometown, and it was impossible to meet Ding Zhen, but Ding Zhen's hometown was really good-looking.There is a log cabin accommodation in Xia Zetong Village, facing the Genie Shenshan, and the location is good. In fact, there are still many accommodation options, and there are also new and better hotels.

Gnie's Eye and Gnie's Sacred Mountain

did not have a plane, so Grenie's Eye only looked a little like an eye.

But this is a good place to see the sunset and sunrise of Mount Gne, because there is a reflection.

When I went, there were still people playing horse racing, which was very sassy.

The autumn colors of the mountains, forests and river valleys in front of you are comparable to Kanas, Xinjiang.

Gnie Accommodation: A newly opened accommodation in

Nagando Village

, it is already very good to be able to find accommodation with such conditions in this village, and it is prepared to endure hardships in advance.

The room is quite clean, normal standard room. In the public bathroom, there is hot water, because it is an electrically heated water heater, and all the hot water is boiled by this water heater, so it is difficult to take a bath, and I am not ready to wash.

At night, there are villagers dancing, which feels like a local square dance, and some of them are dressed in national costumes, which is very lively.

But there is no food provided in this accommodation, only instant noodles can be bought, and the rest are rice and potatoes. There is no breakfast, only rice can be cooked by yourself, it is recommended to bring some food in.


D5 10.4 New Leng Ancient Temple, Old Leng Ancient Temple, Genie-Batang, Accommodation: Batang

went

to the New Leng Ancient Temple after watching the sunrise in Genie, where a blessing ceremony was being held, and the main hall was not allowed to be visited, so I did not see the Three Treasures of Genie.

Old Leng Ancient Temple

From the new Leng Ancient Temple, you can ride a horse to the Old Leng Ancient Temple, the horse gang is at the door, 380 yuan per person, It was possible to ride a motorcycle before, but considering that it was unsafe, it was banned, and it is said that the horse gang is now a regular organization in the scenic spot.

Now there are only two options, horseback riding or hiking. More than an hour one way, most of the road is not difficult to walk, and a small part of the road is a bit bad.

Laoleng Ancient Temple is very close to Genie Shenshan, it is a Huangjiao temple, with a history of more than a thousand years, and the locals are still accustomed to walking a long way to Laoleng Ancient Temple to pray for blessings. Meeting an uncle who explains by chance becomes even more interesting. The little brother of the groom also took us on the vertical stone mountain road to drink the magical medicinal spring that can cure stomach problems, which is the most difficult road I have walked in my life.

From Gnie to Batang, it is really a heavenly road, the scenery is very good, we are the only car on the road, as if dreaming, the pass is more than 4900 meters, It's a bit of a flutter to get out of the car and take a photo.

The Grenier South Line is so good-looking.


D6 10.5 Batang-Babagou, Babahai, Dongba Village, -Gaiyu-Baiyu, Lodging: Baiyu

Babahai

The water color of the Baba Sea is purer and more transparent than Jiuzhaigou, like a gemstone. It is said that whether it is sunny or rainy, it is such a highly saturated blue-green color.

Dongba Village

drove from Babahai to Dongba Village for more than two hours on the high-altitude gravel mountain road, and some sections of the road were stone roads that were very bad, and there were really people deep in the mountains. The geographical location of the village from top to bottom is magical, surrounded by mountains, and the sun shines on this small gentle hillside, Hu Bayi will definitely feel that the feng shui here is good. There are more than 20 people in the village, who live by raising yaks and digging cordyceps, and the villagers are very simple, maybe seclusion is just like that. There is also a Xiba village under Dongba Village, look at it just below, in fact, the two roads are far away.

This is a place that should not be disturbed, but I feel that the people inside want to go out and be known. The villagers saw us enter the village and came to greet us, and finally sent us to the road with a motorcycle, but it was actually quite difficult to walk up.

They welcome foreign tourists from the bottom of their hearts, and several young people say that they can provide accommodation, where they can eat yak meat, barbecue, yak milk, etc., and enjoy collecting fun. In fact, traffic is the main problem, and they say that they can be responsible for picking up and dropping off at Babagou or the county seat. I hope that this village as beautiful as an oil painting will still maintain such a rare original style and original intention after being noticed by everyone.

Baiyu County is really well built, the buildings are neat and uniform, clean and tidy, there are murals on the walls, and you can see the temple on the mountain in the distance.

Dinner: I looked for it randomly near the

accommodation of Pingtou Ge Roast Restaurant

, but I didn't expect it to be unexpectedly delicious.

Boiled beef, spicy and fragrant, the meat slices are very tender, and there are many side dishes.

The green pepper meat slices are very fragrant and flavorful.

Fish-flavored eggplant, which looks oily and soft and glutinous.


D7 10.6 Baiyu-Ganbai Road-G317, Tongcui Lake, accommodation: Ganzi

Ganbai Road-G317

Ganbai Road has beautiful scenery all the way, from the river ditch to the mountains and forests to the grassland to the snow-capped mountains, and the transfer to G317 is also very beautiful.

Passing through Lalongcuo National Wetland Park, the attraction is still under development.

I was going to go to Ase Village in Yinduo Township to see the Danxia landform, but the scenic spot had just been repaired and the road was not open to the public.

Tongcui Lake

has three lakes at a glance, each of which is different colors, and the one in it can only be regarded as a pond, because if you look at it with a drone, there is actually a lake in the distance. But it is blocked by mountains, and it is impossible to walk on foot.

High-altitude lakes are always so attractive and glassy.

Dinner: Chengdu family restaurant

is 11 years old, the store is very big, but it looks a little deserted, the owner is from Chengdu, He admitted that the epidemic has had a great impact on business, coupled with the increasingly abundant tourist routes, which has led to the dispersion of passenger flow.

The taste is quite good.

Potato roasted pork ribs, the meat is not a little meaty, very delicious, and the potatoes are soft and glutinous.

Liver and waist stir-fry, a famous Sichuan dish, but only the liver has no waist, and it is also delicious.

Home-cooked tofu made pot gas.


D8 10.7 Tsoka Lake, Zai Temple, accommodation: Xinlong

Tsoka Lake

Tsoka Lake needs to be driven up the mountain, although there is no door, but someone will stop and charge, 10 yuan per person, 20 yuan per car.

The reflection of Tsoka Lake is beautiful, suitable for picnic and afternoon tea by the lake, and the temple is the Nyingma Red Sect.


There

is a road sign at the entrance, but there is no road sign at the fork in the back, so it is still the wrong way, and it took about an hour to drive the mountain road. There is a very small road down the road, the road is not very good, it takes about five to ten minutes to get there, and of course there is no sign.

The Zayi Temple was built on a cliff and lasted more than 800 years. This was originally the place where the eminent monk Tashi Jiangcuo practiced in seclusion. At present, there is a lama who stays to watch the temple, but the lama is not in and cannot enter, and he did not see the legendary well-preserved mural.


D9 10.8 Larima Town, Accommodation: Daofu

Larima Town

From Xinlong to Larima Town, it took several hours to rush to build roads. But in the future, this road will be quite good, and it is built according to the national highway standard.

The Larima grassland is beautiful, and it is said that the ground is full of wildflowers in July and August, and it changes its color every 15 days. When you hesitate to choose the most beautiful point to take a photo, you open it and find that the grassland is over, and it seems that life is the same.

A village on the grassland of Larima Town, which is being built with the help of Taizhou, will become a mature attraction in five years, when there will be starry sky houses, grass skiing, etc. The characteristic is the stone slab Tibetan village, and a large statue of Master Padmasambhava is enshrined at the entrance of the village, and the mantra of Master Padmasafund is engraved on the mountain, so the whole village is of the Nyingma sect.

At present, an observation deck on the mountain is almost built, and you can see the whole picture of the village.

It is actually very close from Larima to Duff, more than an hour's drive, and the road conditions on the mountain road are also good.

Dinner: The Himalayan kitchen

is very Tibetan, and after living in a small village for so many days, this restaurant looks really exaggerated.

There are not many dishes, and the menu is iPad.

Yogurt, very thick, homemade very sour kind.

The beef cover is good, the cake is good, roll the beef inside and eat it with side dishes, the side dishes include onions, potatoes, etc., the amount is quite large.

Ghee mushrooms, very fragrant, a bit like baked snails.

Potato pie, the cake is wrapped in mashed potatoes, delicious.

Stir-fried bacon with mushrooms, the taste is very strong, and the mushrooms and bacon are good.


>D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayilatso, Hongmu Haizi-Dangling Village-Danba, Accommodation: Danba

Qimei Township is full of water and grass, The road is scenic and passes by a temple in splendid splendor.

A Yilatso

At the foot of the mountain in Jiayi Latso, there are people blocking the road and charging only their motorcycles up the mountain, charging 120 yuan, in fact, this off-road vehicle is completely no problem, the road is very easy to walk on foot, four or five kilometers, you can choose to hike when you have plenty of time, because it is also very beautiful along the way.

The water is turquoise and the autumn colors are charming, which is refreshing to look at.

The mahogany lake

is

more than 20 kilometers away from Jiayi Latso, which is actually deep in the grassland of the herdsmen's homes, and the road is too wild.

The motorcycle took me into the depths of the grassland, the horse took me into the pile of rubble, and I had to walk by myself in the last section, and finally saw the quiet mahogany lake. Groundhogs were also seen in the grassland. The herdsmen are too enthusiastic, and they invite us to drink yak milk and invite us to eat, and the joy of eating ghee is delicious.

There is nothing beautiful about this lake itself, and it is not recommended to go, because the road the horse walks is too dangerous, and the horse stumbles in the pile of rocks, and it is nervous to be carried around. On the contrary, I think the experience of the herdsman's house is very good.

Danba Dinner: Wang Laowu Hotel

chose a 10-year-old restaurant, which is also very close to the accommodation, and is open on the second floor, which is easy to miss when walking by.

Ordered a fish with tofu in it, I thought it was too spicy and tasted average.

Wild mushroom pork rib soup, such a big bowl, the soup is very fresh, the ribs and mushrooms are also very honest, delicious.

Stir-fried shredded pork with eggs, there are a lot of seasonings, very fresh, it is the freshness of the seasoning.


D11 10.10 Danba - Xiaojin - Siguniang Mountain - Chengdu, Chengdu flew Shanghai

Danba to Chengdu did not arrange attractions all the way, Siguniang Mountain took a look, the weather was not good, you could see a little snow-capped mountain.

When you go to Chengdu, you can check in an Internet celebrity landmark, IFS giant panda, you can see the panda butt downstairs, and you can see the giant panda on the front on the terrace on the 7th floor.

a restaurant recommended on

the must-eat list in Panfang City

, a time-honored brand.

Oil-drizzled ducklings, delicious, duck is very fresh, tender and flavorful, a bit like sauce duck, but more dry than sauce duck.

Braised spelling, pork ribs, pig ears, chicken hearts, chicken, dried tofu, the taste is okay, it is useless.

Fresh pepper fried goose intestines, very numb, goose intestines are well processed and very crispy, but the taste is actually not very delicious.

Health stir-fry, yam, snow peas, black fungus, carrots, just want to eat some vegetarian dishes.

Brown sugar pot helmet, the inner layer is a little stiff, and the taste is okay.

After the meal, I saw many people queuing up to buy buns.

Xiyuecheng Tan Douhua

After eating salty, let's have something sweet.

Ice drunken tofu pudding, 7 yuan, is the taste of wine, the bean flavor of tofu pudding is quite strong, the taste is thicker than Shanghai's tofu pudding, and the taste is not bad.

Brown sugar tofu pudding, this is a bit of a joke, it is hot, looking at the soy sauce flavor, it tastes like brown sugar.

Tianfu International Airport

is more than 60 kilometers away from the city, which is quite far, but the transportation is convenient, and Line 18 is direct, and it takes more than an hour to arrive.

This airport is very big and new, there are not many people, and the security check speed is relatively fast. The facilities are very advanced, there is no contact all the way to brush the face, and the electronic screen at the door of the bathroom also has the layout and crowding.

Finally, I will end this travelogue with the delicious Sichuan cuisine I have tasted

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