Overcrowded and Overrated

Question

My wife and I hiked to Havasu Falls campground on 10/9. The hike is much as it's described. Steep switchbacks at the start. Long level stretch through a dry wash leading into Supai. Then about another 2 miles of some downhill hiking past the falls to the campground. The trail was busy with hikers and horse/mule trains. The animals looked ok to me.

The campground is a free for all. No designated sites, so people set up where they please. We had a pretty difficult time finding a spot to put our tent. The last thing we wanted after a 10 mile hike with packs, was to walk around the campground for another hour to find a small spot to fit our tent. We finally settled on a spot near the creek with neighbors very close by, and no picnic table around. Our neighbors were pretty welcoming, letting us know they had a very hard time finding a spot the day before.

The campground is overrun. Packed. There are buckets and bucket lids everywhere - they are used to protect the food from the critters, but the place is littered with them. The bathrooms were gross and almost unusable. Human waste inches from the top of the pit, feces on the seats and seatbacks. I have no problem digging a cat hole and doing my business outdoors, but as mentioned this place is crowded and not the place for pooping in the woods.

We are hikers with some backpacking experience, and feel our expectations of a campsite and a usable toilet at this campground were not unreasonable, especially for the price we paid. We understand the money paid is for the right to be on the tribes land. Maybe some of the money should be used to soften the environmental impact of crowds of people being charged to be on that land.

The falls were beautiful but we had a negative experience, and hiked out earlier than we anticipated. We were saddened by the environmental impact of all the people, and the resulting conditions of the campground and surrounding areas.

Bright angel campground and Ribbon Falls are a great example of what a Grand Canyon Backcountry campground and falls should be. I was pretty excited about this trip to Havasu Falls, and was pretty let down. Unfortunately, I do not recommend going there.

Answer

Havasu Falls, located near Supai in Arizona, is one of the most photographed and famous waterfall destinations in the United States, known for its turquoise-blue waters and dramatic red rock canyon backdrop. However, as your experience highlights, the reality of visiting this remote area can differ greatly from the idyllic photos often seen online. While the falls themselves remain breathtaking, the growing popularity of the destination has led to crowding, environmental strain, and maintenance challenges, especially at the campground area.

The hike into Havasu Falls is roughly 10 miles one way, starting from Hualapai Hilltop. The first section involves steep switchbacks descending into Hualapai Canyon, followed by a long, mostly flat walk through the canyon floor before reaching the village of Supai. From there, another 2 miles lead to the campground area, which stretches between Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls. The trail is well-marked but busy, with hikers, mule trains, and pack animals regularly passing by, especially during peak season (March–October).

Regarding the campground, your description is unfortunately accurate for many visitors. Havasu Falls Campground is not a designated-site campground — it operates as open camping, meaning visitors claim spots wherever space is available along the creek. During high-traffic months, especially in fall and spring, this can lead to overcrowding and difficulty finding level, shaded, or private areas to set up a tent. Amenities such as picnic tables and food storage are limited and often shared among multiple groups.

Campground setup: First-come, first-served style with no numbered sites; camping areas are spread along Havasu Creek for roughly 1 mile.
Facilities: Composting toilets are available but can become unsanitary or overused when visitor numbers are high.
Water access: A natural spring (Fern Spring) provides drinkable water, but lines and crowding are common.

Environmental impact has been a growing issue. The combination of limited infrastructure, heavy foot traffic, and improper waste disposal has resulted in degradation of the area. Buckets and lids, as you mentioned, are often used for storing food to prevent damage from animals, but they also contribute to visual clutter and litter if not properly managed. The tribe, which controls the area, has implemented various efforts over the years to maintain the site, but balancing tourism and preservation remains challenging due to the high number of daily visitors.

Crowding: The number of visitors allowed in daily has increased over time, leading to packed trails and campsites.
Maintenance challenges: The remote location makes sanitation and cleanup difficult, as all waste must be carried out or managed manually.
Environmental wear: Foot traffic and litter impact both the canyon floor and the fragile ecosystem along the creek.

While many still consider Havasu Falls a bucket-list destination, seasoned hikers like yourself often find the experience less serene than expected due to the volume of people and the decline in campground conditions. Comparisons to places like Bright Angel Campground or Ribbon Falls in Grand Canyon National Park are valid — those locations have better infrastructure, stricter regulations, and fewer visitors per area, leading to a cleaner and more peaceful camping environment.

For those still planning a trip to Havasu Falls, it’s worth considering timing and preparation. Traveling outside the peak months (for example, early March or late November, when weather allows) can reduce crowding. Additionally, ensuring all gear and waste practices follow Leave No Trace principles helps minimize individual impact. However, travelers seeking solitude and well-maintained facilities may find other Arizona or Utah canyon destinations more rewarding.

In summary, while Havasu Falls remains visually stunning, the experience is often overshadowed by overcrowding and limited campground infrastructure. The area’s natural beauty is undeniable, but for visitors seeking tranquility, cleanliness, and a true wilderness experience, alternative destinations like Ribbon Falls, Deer Creek, or Coyote Gulch may offer a more satisfying adventure. Your feedback reflects a common and valid concern shared by many responsible hikers who value both nature and sustainability.

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