Live Your Best Lives
Among all the cities I have visited, big and small, if I had to choose one that stands out in the history of urban aesthetics in China, I would choose Qingdao.
Although the people of Qingdao have made the sea their home and made a living by fishing for generations, and by the Qing Dynasty there were hundreds of villages with a population of tens of thousands, the real modernization of Qingdao city only began after the German Empire occupied Qingdao.
November 14, 1897, marked an unusual day. Qingdao would remain under German occupation and construction for 17 years. Initially, the Germans did not rush to expand the city, but instead conducted a lengthy land survey and consideration. Only after completing the initial urban plan did they begin large-scale construction of Qingdao, a model city for the German colony.
Qingdao's meticulous attention to detail in architecture and urban planning has enabled its urban aesthetics to surpass most cities built during the same period since its founding. This includes not only architectural planning and control of the city's overall appearance, but also analysis and accurate definition of population, spatial structure, and urban functions.
The unique geographical location and the strategic urban planning have attracted many writers and poets in history to visit or stay here, including many celebrities such as Shen Congwen, Ba Jin, Lao She, and Wen Yiduo.
Even Liang Shiqiu, a native of Hangzhou, praised Qingdao as a paradise in his "Remembering Qingdao". "Although I have not traveled far, I have visited more than a dozen provinces from Liaodong in the north to Guangdong in the south. I think Qingdao is the place that really makes people linger."
Today, it's difficult to judge whether Qingdao was good or bad during the German occupation, but in terms of urban aesthetics and construction, I think it was positive. Even today, more than a hundred years later, it's still difficult to find a city in China that can rival this stagnation in urban aesthetics.
Among them, Qingdao's many buildings are truly exceptional. From the Badaguan (Eight Gates) at the World Expo, to the luxurious and elegant Yingbin Building, still considered the most prestigious single building in my country, to the Governor's Palace, built at a massive cost... These are among the many classic German-style buildings that were scarce in China and even Europe at the time.
Even after more than a hundred years of rule by Japan and the Beiyang government and construction in different styles, it is still dazzling and praised by the world.
Qingdao Catholic Church, also known as St. Michael's Church, was designed by German architect Johann Sebastian Bloha in Gothic and Romanesque styles. Construction began in 1932 and was completed in 1934. With a tower height of 56 meters, it was the tallest building in Shandong Province before the founding of the People's Republic of China, the largest Romanesque structure in downtown Qingdao, and the only consecrated church in China.
It is said that in the early stages of design, the church was originally designed to be about 100 meters high. Later, when World War II broke out, Germany banned the outflow of local funds, so the church had to modify the drawings and built to its current size.
The church is a brick and stone twin-tower building. The interior is spacious and bright. The hall is 18 meters high and contains four large bells. On both sides of the corridor stand two confessional booths for priests to receive believers' confessions. In the middle stands a valuable pipe organ imported from Germany, which is only played during Sunday mass.
Unlike the grandeur of many cathedrals abroad, Catholic churches appear elegant and delicate, like a homely beauty. The pale yellow walls and pink roof make the otherwise solemn and majestic church seem even more endearing. The arched doors, red window sills, and simple, elegant patterns create a rich and harmonious atmosphere.
Outside the church, there are several large lavender trees, known locally as Paulownia flowers – a truly captivating name. On sunny days, the blossoms sway gently in the breeze, creating a truly pleasing sight. To the right is a statue of the Virgin Mary, lending the church a maternal glow.
On weekdays, there are many newlyweds taking wedding photos or travel photos outside the Catholic church. It is not easy to take clean photos without people. It is best to use low-angle or wide-angle shooting to avoid the crowds.
The entrance fee to the church is only 10 yuan, and with a student ID it's half price, which is quite cost-effective. On weekdays, most tourists take photos outside the church. Inside, there are only a few tourists, and it is very quiet. Although I am not a believer, it is still very shocking to experience the sacredness in person.
Tips:
Ticket price: 10 yuan
Opening Hours:
08:00-17:00 (Monday to Saturday, January 1st - December 31st)
12:00-17:00 (January 1st - Sunday December 31st)
Weekday Mass is at 06:00 every day and Sunday Mass is at 08:00-09:00 on Sunday.
Qingdao Post and Telecommunications Museum, the former site of the German Empire Post Office in Jiaoao, was built in 1901. It is the earliest existing post and telecommunications business building in Qingdao. After restoration, it was officially opened to the public as a museum.
As the only century-old wooden tower currently open to the public in Qingdao, it can be said to be an important window for visitors to Qingdao to understand architectural art, and it is also the best witness to Qingdao’s century-old urban and postal and telecommunications development.
The exterior of the museum is a European-style building with red exterior walls. It is quite conspicuous from a distance. The entire building covers an area of about 2,500 square meters. It is not large in scale among domestic museums, but it has its own uniqueness.
The museum now has three floors: the first floor houses the reception hall, the antique telephone wall, the Jiaoao 1901 courier, and the souvenir shop. Inside, you can see a variety of telephones on the antique telephone wall.
There is also a post office that sells local postcards. The written postcards can be sent by express delivery, and they can also be stamped with stamps of various attractions in Qingdao. Friends who want to keep stamps from various places as souvenirs should not miss it. I asked the boss and he said it normally takes about half a month to receive the postcards.
The second floor is the main exhibition hall, where you can learn about the development of Qingdao's post and telecommunications over the past century through pictures and real objects, as well as the restored Kong Xiangxi office. You need to buy a separate ticket here, which is 20 yuan per person.
The fourth floor houses the Tower 1901 Hall, Qingdao's only century-old wooden tower currently open to the public. The rooftop offers a glimpse into the interior structure, showcasing the architectural techniques of 120 years ago. It also serves as a retro-style book bar, perfect for relaxing with a book. On a sunny day, it's the perfect place to relax and unwind, immersing yourself in Qingdao's unique slow-paced lifestyle.
Tips:
Address: No. 5 Anhui Road, Shinan District, Qingdao
Tickets: Only the second floor exhibition hall is charged, 20 yuan
Opening Hours:
10:00-17:00 (Monday-Sunday, November 1st - April 30th of the following year)
09:30-18:00 (Monday-Sunday, May 1st-October 31st)
Badaguan is the place that best embodies Qingdao's distinctive "red tiles, green trees, azure sea, and blue sky." It's called Badaguan because there are eight roads (now ten), named after my country's eight famous passes. Before I came here, I thought Badaguan was just a tourist attraction, but later I learned that it actually refers to a large area between the First and Third Baths.
Because the area is home to villas in over 20 architectural styles, including Russian, British, French, German, and Malaysian, as well as European classical buildings, all with unique shapes, it is also known as the "International Architecture Expo." This has made Badaguan a popular location for many film locations.
A few buildings within the scenic area were built during the German colonial period (1897-1914), but the vast majority date from the 1930s. The Flower and Stone Tower and Princess Tower are the most famous, boasting unique architectural styles. Entrance fees are required, making them must-see attractions.
The stone walls of the buildings inside are mostly light yellow in color, with granite pillars. The color combination is quiet and elegant, and it is very pleasing to the eye to walk through.
Before liberation, this place was a villa area for most bureaucrats and capitalists. After liberation, the People's Government carried out a comprehensive renovation of Badaguan, making it one of China's important sanatoriums. Many party and state leaders and important international friends have stayed here.
Nowadays, some of the buildings inside are not open to the public, but there are friendly explanations about the history of these buildings outside the buildings, which is very humane.
Each of the eight inner roads is planted with a different tree species. Shaoguan Road is lined with peach trees, which bloom in spring; Zhengyangguan Road is planted with crape myrtles, which bloom in summer; Juyongguan Road is lined with maples, which turn red in autumn frost; and Zijingguan Road is lined with rows of cedar trees, which remain evergreen year-round. The avant-garde and thoughtful design is unparalleled in China today.
Walking from Badaguan to the beach, you will reach the second bathing beach. When the weather is fine, this is also a paradise for the locals. There is also a row of blue changing houses on the coast, which is very literary. Those who love taking pictures should not miss this photo-taking spot.
By the way, the road conditions in Badaguan are complicated and there are few parking spaces. Although transportation here is very convenient, it is best not to drive if you are not familiar with the road.
Tips:
Admission: Free (some attractions have separate charges)
Transportation: Bus No. 468, which can directly drive to Badaguan
Recommended tour time: 3 hours
Huashilou is located on a cape extending into the sea at the southern end of Badaguan scenic spot in Qingdao. It is surrounded by the sea on three sides, with Badaguan at its back and the second bathing beach in front. It is a European castle-style building that I really like.
The entire building was built by a Belarusian designer in 1930. It is a rare castle-style villa that integrates the four classic Western architectural styles (Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque).
Most of the building's exterior materials are granite with talc decoration, so it has been well preserved until now, hence the name "Huashilou".
The Huashilou building, with a total construction area of 777.15 square meters, consists of five floors, one underground floor, three above-ground floors, and a tower. The top floor houses a sea-viewing platform, with a distinctive iron spire on the side. Around the main building, there are stables, a ball court, a well, and gardens, creating a tranquil environment perfect for both living and recreation.
According to legend, Chiang Kai-shek once lived here before liberation. There is still a path in the courtyard outside Huashilou that leads directly to the Second Bathing Beach (now closed). It is estimated that the Second Bathing Beach was a private bathing beach for the people living here in the past. Mr. Chiang really knew how to enjoy himself!
Tips:
Address: No. 18 Huanghai Road, Shinan District, Qingdao
Ticket price: 8.5 RMB
Opening Hours:
08:00-18:00 (Monday-Sunday, January 1st-December 31st)
The Guest House, also known as the former site of the German Governor's Building, was built in 1905 and completed in 1907. It was designed by the famous German architect Lacharowicz. It is a castle-like building with a very German style. During the German occupation period, the two governors of Jiaozhou Bay, Oscar von Trube and Mayer Waldeck, both lived here.
After the Kuomintang government reclaimed Qingdao, it was renamed the "Guest House" in 1934, specifically for hosting state dignitaries. The hotel has hosted numerous prominent figures from home and abroad, serving as a bridge between Chinese and foreign cultures. It stands as a classic symbol of Qingdao, a renowned historical and cultural city, and a witness to the city's turbulent half of modern history.
As the highest representative of "German architectural art in China", the Guest House is still ranked first among my country's single buildings for its luxurious decoration and elegant shape.
Because it combines typical Wilhelmine-era architecture with Jugendstil elements, it has been hailed by both Chinese and international visitors as a rare architectural specimen. Even in continental Europe and Germany, after the two world wars, this style of architecture is virtually extinct, further highlighting its precious value. In 1996, the State Council designated it a "National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit."
The entire building area of the Guest House is over 4,000 square meters and it is 30 meters high. It is built with a mixture of stone, brick, steel and wood, and the beige exterior walls are decorated and protected with granite. Therefore, it still looks not dilapidated after hundreds of years. The overall momentum is rugged and majestic, while at the same time it is exquisite. As soon as you enter it, you will feel solemn and dignified.
The building has four floors and a total of 30 rooms of various sizes. Here is a brief description.
The ground floor consists of semi-underground rooms, originally used as a dining room for the Governor’s servants;
The first floor is the entrance hall, middle hall, lobby, conference room, ballroom, restaurant and greenhouse, etc. It is tall and majestic, full of simple and rich Western style.
The Governor's bedroom and office on the second floor are decorated in an elegant and magnificent manner. The furniture inside is all original products from a German company that once manufactured them for the royal family. It is said that even after a century, not a single piece of wooden furniture in the entire hotel has cracked or deformed due to quality issues. (Because photography is not allowed inside, no pictures are recorded.)
Architecture is like frozen music, and the Governor's Mansion quietly recounts the vicissitudes and profound changes of Qingdao's modern history. For a panoramic view, climb the adjacent Signal Hill. Nestled among the lush greenery, the State Guest House unfolds before your eyes, resembling a castle from a Hayao Miyazaki anime. It's truly breathtaking.
Tips:
Address: No. 26, Longshan Road, Shinan District, Dao City
Ticket price: 20 RMB
Opening hours: 08:00-17:00
Tsingtao Beer Museum is the old factory of Tsingtao Brewery. Tsingtao Brewery was founded in 1903. Today, more than a hundred years later, its earliest factory building has been transformed into a world-renowned beer museum.
The museum is set up in the old factory buildings and old equipment of Tsingtao Beer from a hundred years ago. It takes the century-long history and technological process of Tsingtao Beer as the main line, and displays the history and production process of Tsingtao Beer. It has now become a landmark attraction in Qingdao.
The exterior of the building retains the original German design. The entire museum is divided into three visiting areas: a century-old historical and cultural exhibition area, a Tsingtao Beer brewing process area, and a multi-functional interactive leisure area.
In the Centennial History and Culture Exhibition Area, you can learn about the origin and long history of Tsingtao Beer through the exhibition materials. There are also many pictures and materials collected from Europe and across the country, and even the actual products produced by Tsingtao Beer at various stages, which are very ornamental.
The brewing process area displays many old equipment, workshop environments and production scenes. The video equipment placed at each representative part of the production process can vividly introduce the production process of Tsingtao Beer.
In order to recreate the original historical appearance, the museum has set up sculptural models of workers' labor in multiple workshops, and at the same time replicated the old laboratory scenes and the scenes of workers turning malt, as well as simulated 3D animation images, which are super realistic!
The multifunctional interactive leisure area consists of a beer tasting area and a shopping center on the first floor, where visitors can enjoy a variety of fresh Tsingtao beers of different qualities and buy various souvenirs. The second floor has comprehensive entertainment facilities with avant-garde design concepts and high-tech means, which organically combine knowledge and entertainment, allowing visitors to understand the complex process of beer brewing while having fun.
For every visitor who purchases a ticket, the museum will give a cup of original beer, a cup of pure beer, and a bag of beer beans for free, which will be given to the visitor for tasting in two batches.
Don’t underestimate this set meal. It was specially designated by the Chairman when he visited the Qingdao Beer Museum, and it is affectionately called the “Dada Set Meal” internally.
Tips:
Tickets:
Adult Ticket
(Off-season) RMB 50 (Monday to Sunday, January 1st - December 31st)
(Peak Season) RMB 60 (Monday to Sunday, January 1st - December 31st)
Opening Hours:
08:30-16:30 (Monday to Sunday, January 1st - April 30th)
08:00-17:30 (Monday to Sunday, May 1st - June 30th)
Explanation (high quality)
Chinese: 100 yuan for less than 10 people, 50 minutes of explanation, 10 yuan per person for more than 10 people
If you're talking about Qingdao's most worthwhile bookstores, Liangyou Bookstore is undoubtedly one of the top. Founded in 2006 and considered one of China's top ten distinctive bookstores, Liangyou Bookstore has long been synonymous with Qingdao's "literature + art + lifestyle aesthetics" and a landmark for Qingdao tourism.
The environment is classical and elegant, and the decoration style is full of Shanghai culture and atmosphere. It is very different from traditional bookstores and you will fall in love with it at first sight!
The books, coffee, art, flower art, cultural and creative industries, and salons that best reflect Qingdao can all be found here!
The "Liangyou" series of art exhibitions and the "New Youth" series of art exhibitions in the bookstore allow you to experience Qingdao's cultural memory from different angles.
It is worth mentioning that the bookstore building itself is also managed by the Post and Telecommunications Museum. It was formerly the site of the German Empire Post Office in Jiaoao. It was built in 1901 and is the earliest existing post and telecommunications business building in Qingdao. It is also the only century-old wooden tower currently open to the public in Qingdao. It is well worth a visit to Liangyou Bookstore.
Tips:
Address: No. 5 Anhui Road, Qingdao City, Shandong Province (next to Qingdao Post and Telecommunications Museum)
Transportation: Take Metro Line 3, Qingdao Road, Exit G, and walk 570 meters
Opening hours: 9:30-21:30
Of all the old buildings in Qingdao, if you had to pick one that stands out as a government office, it would definitely be the former site of the Jiaoao Governor's Mansion. This modern German-style building was commissioned by German architect Malik after the German occupation of Qingdao in 1897. The construction took three years, and the building was completed in January 1906 at a cost of 850,000 marks. It is the largest and most expensive of all German buildings in Qingdao. It was also the seat of the highest authority during the German occupation of Qingdao, truly the heart of the city.
The entire architectural style is a typical 19th-century European public building, with a symmetrical plane, slightly protruding corners and the middle, and a very obvious central axis. The exterior is in the shape of an "concave" character, the roof is covered with red tiles, the wide radiating stone steps at the door and the solid building facade create the building's grandeur and unparalleled solemnity.
Later, it became the office of Qingdao Municipal Government and the CPPCC until it ceased to be used with the completion of the new municipal government building. Surrounding the Governor's Mansion are numerous historical buildings. Its location in the heart of the city was like the heart of Qingdao in the old days, with blood vessels connecting it to every corner of the old city.
Tips:
Admission: Free
Opening hours: Surface viewing only
Address: No. 11, Yishui Road, Shinan District, Qingdao City, Shandong Province
Transportation: Get off at Qingdao Medical University Affiliated Hospital Station and walk 300 meters
The railway station is a city’s business card. This is especially true for Qingdao, where Qingdao Station is one of the city’s most distinctive landmark buildings.
Qingdao Station is located on Tai'an Road in Shibei District. It was built in the 26th year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1900). It is a century-old station with German Renaissance architectural style. It is also one of the most beautiful railway stations in China. On December 2, 2017, it was selected into the second batch of China's 20th century architectural heritage list.
The railway station was originally designed by German architects Werner and Gödeltz and constructed by the Shandong Railway Company. The station at the time consisted mainly of two parts: a clock tower and a waiting hall. It was a typical German Renaissance architectural style, simple yet elegant.
With the development of Qingdao, Qingdao Railway Station has undergone several renovations, reconstructions and expansions. It was demolished and rebuilt in 1991, put into operation on August 8, 1994, renovated again on December 10, 2006, and reopened on August 1, 2008.
To this day, Qingdao Railway Station and its surrounding areas have become a "city living room" and landmark building that integrates history, culture, leisure and entertainment. Many tourists come here specifically to check in and take photos.
Tips:
Address: No. 2 Tai'an Road, Shinan District, Qingdao
Admission: Free
Opening hours: All day
Located on Jiangsu Road, the Christ Church, formerly known as the Gospel Church, is a renowned religious building in Qingdao, accessible in just minutes from Signal Hill. Unlike the Catholic Church on Zhejiang Road, the Christ Church is a classic German castle, a medieval castle with the texture of an oil painting. From a distance, it has a fairytale feel.
The Christ Church was originally a place for Germans to gather and worship. It was funded by the German Jiaozhou Governor's Office. The foundation stone was laid on April 19, 1908 and completed on October 23, 1910.
The entire church is divided into two parts: the auditorium and the bell tower. The bell tower is 39.1 meters high and is very suitable for overlooking the sea. The auditorium inside is spacious and bright, with two floors on both sides, and it is said to be able to accommodate more than 1,000 people.
The exterior of the church is made of stones, and the thick granite wall foundation is solemn and rough, making the outline of the entire church appear clear and concise, with a unique religious architectural beauty.
The most eye-catching thing when you walk in is the giant clocks on three sides of the bell tower. Climb to the top of the bell tower and you can visit the internal mechanical structure of the clock. After more than 100 years, it can still tell time accurately, and to the minute and second, which is really admirable!
Tips:
Address: No. 15, Jiangsu Road, Shinan District, Qingdao (near Yishui Road)
Ticket price: 10 RMB
Opening hours: 08:30-16:30 (opens at 11:30 on Sundays)
There are far more buildings in Qingdao than these. Some people say that Qingdao’s architectural history is a condensed version of most of Qingdao’s modern history, and from the German occupation period to today, Qingdao’s urban planning is a condensed history of urban aesthetics. I personally think this is not an exaggeration.
Some time ago, I was discussing with a friend the nicknames of Qingdao. Some are called "Qindao", some are called "Jiaoao", and some are called "Island City", but strangely, they always sound unfamiliar, and I even feel that none of them sounds like Qingdao.
So what is Qingdao like? I can’t really explain it. Only when you come here can you savor your own memories of Qingdao!
