Live Your Best Lives
Why did I go to Central Asia? Perhaps it was a spur-of-the-moment impulse, a desire to stop procrastinating; perhaps it was to fulfill a graduation promise I'd made; or perhaps it was because I felt the ambiance of my class was too strong and I wanted to take advantage of the brief window of time to fully experience it. Anyway, I set off, and the journey proved far more exciting than I'd imagined.
I was leisurely paddling in the middle of Lake Kolsay with my newfound companions, feeling the relaxation of the azure waters and emerald green mountains;
Tirelessly explore every corner of the ancient city of Khiva and admire the golden sunset from the highest minaret;
Look up at the Nakkaron Minaret in every street and alley of Bukhara, and get lost in the ancient buildings with the purest flavor of the ancient Silk Road;
Surrounded by three massive madrasas in the heart of Rekistan, you'll be amazed and overwhelmed by the sheer scale of these monumental structures...
👆Let’s take a look at this video first to get a feel for it~
Central Asia and I have always had a deep connection. My first foreign friend was from Central Asia. At China-TravelNote, I was a product manager for the Middle East and Africa region. My first package tour was a Central Asian trip to Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, and my first independent tour was also a Central Asian trip to Uzbekistan. (I've already seen this, so please sign up before reading on. ^^)
This trip to Central Asia allowed me to personally experience the charm of Central Asian civilization. I specially compiled this guide, hoping it will be helpful for your trip.
Kazakhstan:
30 days visa-free, really super friendly!
Uzbekistan:
① 10-day visa-free entry and exit by air or land (a departure ticket is required, and the third country cannot be another Stan country)
② Electronic visa, divided into single entry and multiple entry, single entry is US$21.5, maximum stay is 30 days, and the visa can be issued in 3 days
Materials required for e-visa: passport front page photo + 2-inch electronic photo. Official website for e-visa application: http://e-visa.gov.uz
Uzbekistan time is only 3 hours behind Beijing time, and Kazakhstan time is 2 hours behind Beijing time. The time difference is relatively friendly and the biological clock can basically get used to it.
The currency of Uzbekistan is the Uzbekistani Som. US dollars can be exchanged for Som locally, but RMB cannot be directly exchanged for Som. 1 USD ≈ 12,689.97 Uzbekistani Som (the exchange rate changes in real time, please refer to the actual query).
The currency of Kazakhstan is the Tenge. Locals can exchange Tenge with US dollars and RMB. 1 US dollar ≈ 443.8 Kazakhstani Tenge (the exchange rate changes in real time, please refer to the actual query).
Alipay and WeChat are not widely accepted in both countries. Cash transactions are done in most places. Visa can be used in restaurants, shopping malls, supermarkets, etc.
Please note: Many guesthouses in Uzbekistan only accept cash payments.
Both countries have their own languages, but Russian is still the most commonly spoken language. English is not widely used in either country, but most young people can speak English, and service staff in hotels, B&Bs, and restaurants can usually communicate in English.
Both countries have a typical continental climate, with hot summers and cold winters. However, summers aren't as unbearably hot and humid as in East China. As long as you stay out of the sun, you'll still feel a bit chilly in the shade. However, the daytime heat is noticeably hotter than the nights, and with strong sunlight, it's crucial to wear sunscreen and stay warm.
Although winter is quite cold, the ancient city in the snow has another charm, and there is no need to worry about crowds.
Although the Central Asian countries are primarily Islamic, they are relatively open-minded, so there's no need to worry too much. Of course, when visiting mosques and religious sites in the summer, please dress appropriately; men are prohibited from wearing shorts. It's recommended that women bring a silk scarf (you can bring a variety of styles to easily match your outfit) to cover their head and hair.
The temperature difference between morning and evening is very large in summer, so you also need some cold-proof clothing. Be sure to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, skin-protecting clothing, etc. for outdoor activities; in winter, down jackets, cotton jackets, down pants and other warm clothing are the main ones, and gloves, hats, scarves, etc. are all necessary cold-proof equipment.
All are European standards, with round toes on both feet.
① You can choose to purchase the Belt and Road package of Wuyouxing, which includes all five Central Asian countries except Turkmenistan.
② It is also very convenient to buy local phone cards at the airport after landing, and the price is relatively cost-effective. The main operators include Beeline, Ucell, Tele2, etc.
★ ①Yandex Go
This Central Asian version of Didi lets you hail taxis in all four Central Asian countries from one app, supporting domestic mobile number binding and Visa payments. It feels essentially the same as Didi in China, with accurate location and fast order processing. Don't take illegal taxis in Central Asia! The downside is that, because it's a Russian app, it can't be installed on iPhones from the App Store. Taxis in Uzbekistan are practically free, while in Kazakhstan, taxi fares are comparable to those in second-tier cities in China, making them a bit pricey.
②Yandex Map
This amazing map app does everything you can imagine. It can navigate, hail taxis, show real-time bus stops (it's so accurate I never have to worry about missing my stop), and even find restaurants, department stores, pharmacies, hospitals, gas stations, ATMs, and even hair salons. And, best of all, it can even order takeout!
③Uz Railway
The Uzbek version of 12306 is very convenient and important for independent travelers. Intercity trains are definitely the most convenient. It also supports domestic mobile phone number binding and Visa payment.
After successfully booking the ticket, you can download the electronic version of the ticket, and it is best to print it out.
Generally speaking, when traveling to Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, you must visit these cities: Almaty in Kazakhstan, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva in Uzbekistan.
Domestic flights to Almaty are more frequent and the airfares are better, so it is best to choose Almaty as the entry and exit point when choosing flights.
D1 Domestic [Flight] Almaty
D2 Almaty city day tour
D3 Almaty Suburban Tour
D4 Almaty [Flight] Tashkent [Train] Khiva
D5 Khiva
D6 Khiva【Bus】Bukhara
D7 Bukhara【Train】Samarkand
D8 Samarkand [Train] Tashkent [Bus] Alam
D9 Almaty【Flight】Domestic
Almaty is the largest city in Central Asia and a snow-capped mountain city on the back of the Tianshan Mountains. In 2023, my country and Kazakhstan will exempt each other from visas. You can take a bus from Yili to Almaty for 200 yuan. Traveling abroad at a super cheap price is no longer a dream!
Most of Almaty's popular attractions are in the city, such as the Ascension Cathedral, the 28 Heroes Park, the Green Bazaar, the Central Mosque, etc., which are only a few blocks apart.
The first stop on your itinerary in Almaty must be the Ascension Cathedral, the city's oldest building. As the world's second-tallest existing wooden structure, the cathedral boasts a single steel nail and rebar, having survived a 7.8 magnitude earthquake and remaining standing, a testament to the exceptional architectural skill of ancient craftsmen.
Near the Ascension Cathedral, there is a monument to the 28 Panfilov warriors, which is mainly to commemorate the heroes of the 16th Regiment of the 316th Panfilov Guards Rifle Division of the former Soviet Army who died in the Battle of Moscow in 1941. On the long platform in front of the sculpture, there is also an eternal flame symbolizing the heroic spirit of the 28 warriors that will never be extinguished.
If you're a musical enthusiast, we highly recommend the Kazakhstan Musical Instruments Museum, located across from the Warriors Monument. Tickets are 1,500 tenge. Kazakhs are a nation known for their love of singing, dancing, and rapping (try again if you're mistaken). This museum showcases a collection of traditional instruments from across Kazakhstan.
The most representative instrument is undoubtedly the dombra, of which the museum houses approximately 13 different versions. This two-stringed instrument is one of the most beloved traditional instruments of the Kazakh people. In addition to Kazakh instruments, the museum also houses instruments from around the world, including the Chinese erhu, pipa, and guzheng.
When you come to the Islamic world, you must visit the bazaar. It is definitely a good place to understand the daily life of local people and it is also the place with the strongest atmosphere of fireworks.
Almaty's Green Bazaar is the most famous market in the area, said to have a history of over a century. The Green Bazaar is divided into two floors: the ground floor is primarily occupied by stalls, while the second floor houses a restaurant with panoramic views, allowing you to dine while overlooking the bustling scene on the ground floor. There are also many stalls outside the Green Bazaar, selling clothing, souvenirs, and daily necessities, most of which appear to be made in Yiwu. A simple stroll through the area is sufficient.
Away from the city, Almaty's suburbs are even more exciting, encompassing almost all the landforms and scenery of Northwest China, including snow-capped mountains, canyons, alpine lakes... If you don't have enough time to travel the entire Northwest Small Loop, why not come to Almaty and travel through the Northwest Small Loop quickly without the hassle of traveling?
Generally, if you go to the outskirts of Almaty, you must visit the following places: ▶Charyn Grand Canyon ▶Kolsay Lake ▶Kaindi Lake ▶Big Almaty Lake ▶Alatau National Park
Because they are all located in the suburbs of Almaty, I strongly recommend joining a local tour group, which is convenient and can help you find a companion.
There are two options for joining a tour group: ① Choose to join a tour group directly on entertainment platforms such as Get your guide or Tripadvisor. The advantage is convenience, but the disadvantage is that the cost will be twice as much as the latter.
②You can skip the platform and directly search and contact the local tour group agency in Almaty for reservations on Instagram. The more well-known ones are Join me and KK tour. The advantage is that they are cheap enough, but the disadvantage is that you must go to the tour group agency's offline office to pay the day before the departure date, and you can only pay in cash, not VISA.
This time I chose the most popular "Two Lakes and One Canyon" because it is a one-day tour. This canyon is not the Charyn Grand Canyon, but the Black Canyon. The price is 17,000 tenge per person (excluding lunch). It is a very special one-day tour. The specific itinerary is as follows:
6:00 - Gathering, 6:30 - Departure
9:30--Arrival at Black Canyon
10:00 - Leave Black Canyon and head to Saty Village
11:30 - Arrive at Saty Village and transfer to a Soviet-style small steel cannon for an off-road trip to Kaindi Lake
2:30 PM - Leave Kaindi Lake
3:30 PM - Arrive at Lake Korsai, have lunch and free time
18:30 - Return, 22:00 - Back to the city
👆Receipt received after offline payment
The most beautiful of these is Lake Kaindi, which was once listed in Lonely Planet's "20 Most Amazing Travel Destinations in the World" and has a mysterious sunken forest.
In the town of Saty, you can change to a Soviet steel cannon that is still strong. After climbing the slope, crossing the pits, and wading through the water, you will reach the parking lot of the scenic area after a shaky half-hour journey. Then you can choose to hike, ride a horse, or continue to spend 500 tenge to take the Soviet steel cannon to reach Lake Kaindi.
Arriving after all the hard work will make you feel it was all worth it. The azure waters of the lake are so beautiful that they seem unreal, so clear that you can see the bottom without a ripple. A spruce forest, with only trunks left, has long lost any signs of life, but it stands motionless in the transparent water. Everything here seems to be at a standstill.
Compared to Kaindi Lake, Kolsay Lake offers more comprehensive tourist facilities, including horseback riding, boating, archery, cafes, and hotels. Here, you can fully experience the relaxed atmosphere of Kazakhstan. Just sit down anywhere, watch the ripples on the lake, and listen to the gentle waves. It's truly chill.
Uzbekistan, one of the only two doubly landlocked countries in the world, has the most world cultural heritage sites among the five Central Asian countries, with as many as 7,400 cultural heritage sites. It is also the country with the richest relics of the glorious history of the Millennium Silk Road in Central Asia.
👆Tashkent Airport, you can exchange currency and buy phone cards after passing through customs
The Pumpkin Museum is a small but culturally rich museum that offers a truly healing experience. It was renovated from the family home of its two founders, a 30-year-old couple. The husband communicates only in Russian, while the wife speaks English. She provides most of the explanations for foreign visitors.
The garden of the house is planted with a variety of edible and decorative pumpkins, which are used to make various dolls and decorations. The two founders have set up many fairy-tale plots and stories. Each cabin and each link is like a stage play. Their sense of storytelling immerses us in every detail of their lives.
Upon entering, the host, dressed as a puppet, knocks on the door and leads you into a dazzling world of fairytale pumpkins. He explains how each unique pumpkin variety grows and is crafted into various utensils, instruments, and puppets. Then, you enter the performance room to watch and experience various traditional local instruments, dance performances, and participate in carefully designed storytelling sessions.
Finally, we'll go outside to enjoy tea and snacks prepared in advance, chat, and leave comments on paper. The whole process lasts about 1.5 hours, and the experience and sense of substitution are extremely strong. You will definitely be moved by the authentic and simple Ukrainian culture.
The key point is that the Pumpkin Museum is free to visit and relies on donations for revenue, and the amount of donation is entirely up to personal wishes.
When discussing Khiva, one cannot help but recall the famous saying, "I would give a bag of gold just to see Khiva." While gold is no longer a barrier to entry, the 200,000 som entrance fee is undoubtedly the most expensive in Uzbekistan. In my opinion, only by experiencing it firsthand can one truly empathize with the merchants who once braved the desert, accompanied by the sound of camel bells, and risked everything to reach Khiva.
Khiva is located in western Uzbekistan, very close to Turkmenistan. The most important thing to do when visiting Khiva is to see the legendary ancient city of Khiva, which is said to be worth a thousand gold coins.
The ancient city is divided into two parts: the inner city of Ichin Kala (generally known as the ancient city) and the outer city. The inner city is an "open-air museum group" with dense ancient buildings. It has nearly 60 cultural relics, including 8 mosques, 31 madrasa, 14 minarets, 12 mausoleums and 6 royal palaces. It is also the first world cultural heritage in Uzbekistan and was once the capital of the Khanate of Khiva, one of the three major khanates in Central Asia.
The structure of Khiva's Old Town is simple, with a single east-west main street running through the city. Most of the worthwhile attractions are located along this main street. Tours generally begin at the West Gate, where the ticket office is located and where the highest concentration of historical sites is located. The entire city isn't large, but it's not small either. A cursory walk around the old town should be sufficient in half an hour. However, if you want to savor every detail and not miss any of the sights, a full day is definitely not enough.
👆 Khiva Ancient City Ticket Information
👆Map of the Ancient City of Khiva
As soon as you enter the west gate, you will be greeted by the Carter Minaret, which will immediately stimulate your desire to explore the ancient city.
Legend has it that if the Carter Minaret had been successfully completed, you could even have seen Bukhara from its summit! Unfortunately, the then-contractor, Amin Khan of Khiva, fell to his death while inspecting the minaret's construction. Construction was halted, leaving this magnificent half-finished minaret standing, a symbol of the ancient city of Khiva's "never-ending" nature.
Although it is only half a ruin, it is shocking enough. The tower covered with turquoise is very eye-catching in the entire "plain" city. The overall appearance is blue and white, which is gorgeous, bright and vivid.
Another symbol of Khiva is the 57-meter-tall Islam Khodja Minaret, Uzbekistan's tallest ancient structure. Despite its 9.5-meter diameter, the minaret appears light and slender, thanks to the use of bright azure, dark blue, white, and turquoise inlays, which create a decorative horizontal pattern around the perimeter and enhance the elegance of the brickwork. The minaret can be reached for a fee of 100,000 soms, but the climb is narrow, difficult, and the views are average, so it's not a good idea to spend the money.
The Mausoleum of Palavon Muhammad is arguably the most magnificent site in the ancient city of Khiva. Successive Khiva khans sought to be buried as close to it as possible. Palavon Muhammad was the region's foremost wrestler, undefeated throughout his life. Even today, before various sporting events, local athletes still visit Palavon's mausoleum to pray for good luck.
The mausoleum was built magnificently by Khan. It is said that blue tiles cover every inch of the interior. The internal dome is extremely gorgeous. Many locals worship here. I strongly recommend everyone to come and get the good luck of Palaung!
Even without a ticket, you can still peek inside through the open door. Rather than calling it a mosque, it would be more accurate to call it a "carved wooden column museum."
Over 200 ancient carved pillars bear witness to the craftsmanship of ancient Khwarazmian artisans. These wooden pillars, carved with various designs and motifs, date back to the 10th century AD. Some of the pillars were padded with camel hair where they met the stone base to prevent termite infestation, a method that has preserved the pillars for nearly a thousand years.
The Stone Palace was built by Alakul Khan between 1832 and 1841. It has gorgeous blue walls and intricately carved stone pillars.
Don’t forget to look up and admire the three caissons with different styles. The complex and orderly patterns are really beautiful, and it is really a blessing for people with cervical spondylosis.
Believe me, the best sunset view must be given to the watchtower next to the Khan Palace! Although it costs an extra 100,000 som, it is absolutely worth it.
Time your visit well before sunset to visit the Khan Palace. Originally built in the 12th century, it was expanded by successive khans, and its interior has now been converted into a museum, offering a glimpse into the lives of the royal family of the time.
Just a few steps from the Khan Palace, turn left and you'll reach the entrance to the watchtower. Only by climbing the tower can you find those popular online photo spots and the best views of the city!
When the afterglow of the setting sun falls, the entire ancient city will be dyed golden, and the prominent Islam Khoja Minaret and Qat Minaret will become the best finishing touch. At this moment, you will truly understand what it means to be worth a thousand gold at first sight.
Recommended restaurant: Khiva Moon, just outside the old city, is a great place for a hearty meal. Highly recommended!
Bukhara, with a history spanning over 2,500 years, is synonymous with antiquity. It is ancient, one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and a renowned hub on the Silk Road. It is pristine, its fading Islamic heritage replaced by the hues of a pristine earth, a perfect example of the pristine character of the ancient Silk Road. It is also primordial, as a former pillar of Islam, its conservative adherents retain a sense of pride and dignity.
You can wander around the ancient city of Bukhara, visit one ancient monument after another, look up at the different mosques and seminaries one after another, or have a simple chat and bargain with the souvenir sellers in the ancient city, and delve into the core of this ancient city in every aspect.
This iconic building in Bukhara's Old Town, built in the early 19th century, once graced the cover of Lonely Planet's Central Asia magazine. Originally the gate to a religious academy, though the structure no longer exists, this is a chance to imagine the academy's splendor.
It has four distinctive minarets (not actually called minarets as they are solid and cannot be climbed) representing four dynasties, namely the Samanidas, Shaybanidas, Karakhanidas and Mangitas.
Next to Charminar there is a map showing all the ancient monuments in Bukhara↓
It has the reputation of being the "tallest tower in Central Asia", but it has long been used to be and has not been repaired to date. It has stood in Bukhara for nearly 9 centuries.
The massive tower is constructed from stacked bricks, and its structure is decorated with 14 different decorative bands of brick and earth from top to bottom. Its pristine simplicity is even more striking than the minarets of Khiva, which are covered in turquoise mosaic tiles. This minaret is the only structure in Bukhara that escaped destruction by the Mongol cavalry, and legend has it that even Genghis Khan was impressed by it.
The Miri Arab Theological Seminary, opposite the Kalon Mosque, is still in use, so its interior is temporarily closed to the public.
Since its construction in 1620, it has been the CBD of the old city of Bukhara. There are many restaurants. There is a statue of Avanti on the east side of the square.
Not far from the statue is the Nadir Diwan Beghi Madrasah, with its bold architectural style. Looking up, one can easily spot that the exterior tiles of this Madrasah are distinctly different from those found elsewhere, featuring peacocks, lambs, and human faces. This is a direct violation of the Islamic prohibition against depicting living things, and is quite rare. You can also find this phenomenon in Samarkand.
The 20 massive carved wooden columns at the entrance are the finishing touch, hinting at luxury. In Uzbekistan and even Central Asia, wood is far more valuable than stone or brick. Furthermore, 20 such tall wooden columns are as rare as the golden nanmu in my country.
Looking closely at these wooden pillars, although they have been eroded for hundreds of years, the exquisite carvings are still stunning, especially the stalactite-shaped arches, which are carved in colorful colors other than the traditional blue, which is very pleasing to the eye.
Dress etiquette and other taboos to pay attention to when entering a mosque↓
Yak Castle is the oldest building in Bukhara. It has been the palace of the Bukhara rulers since the 5th and 6th centuries AD. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. Now, except for a few royal residences, other buildings have long been lost in the long river of history. However, several small museums have been opened, and the castle houses many relics of the former Bukhara rulers.
The other part of the Yak Castle is a barren wasteland, but if you think it's worthless, you will regret it forever! Beneath the surface of the ruins, this is actually the best place to appreciate the ancient city of Bukhara and the Kalon architectural complex. The quaint earth-yellow buildings are even more in tune with the sunset.
People only know about Rome, Athens and Babylon, which have a history of 2,600 years, but they don’t know that Samarkand, the most brilliant hub city on the Silk Road, is the same age as them!
In 2000, the entire ancient city of Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rich in history, the Timurid architecture, wide avenues, and unique floral patterns will not disappoint. The city weaves together Persian, Arabic, Greek, and even Chinese cultures and histories.
My favorite part is walking the streets of old Samarkand, where you'll occasionally stumble upon enormous structures. The low walls and buildings offer no protection from the sprawling seminaries of Rekistan and Bibihanem, which seem poised to break away. Imagine a blue dome poised amidst a forest of low-rise residential buildings—the contrast is magical!
Rekistan Square, the most famous landmark in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, and even Central Asia, is known as the "Heart of Samarkand." It has been bustling and vibrant throughout history. Three madrasas (madrasahs) dot the square. The oldest is the Ulugh Beg Madrasah on the west side. The Sher-Do Madrasah, a similar-looking madrasah across from it, and the smallest madrasah in the center is the Tila Khari Madrasah.
In the early morning, Reikistan is even more vibrant. Standing alone in the center of the square, surrounded by three massive madrasas, the feeling is simply overwhelming. The overwhelming sense of awe easily evokes the once immortal splendor of Central Asia. So, this is what it feels like to be at the center of the world!
Shah-i-Zinda, meaning "Tomb of the Living King," is an avenue of mausoleums where the princesses and nobles of the Ulugh Beg era are buried. Ascending the steps, you pass by magnificent mausoleums, a variety of classic Arabic domes come into view, and the blue-green tiles glow softly in the sunlight. The exquisite tiles tell of the ancient city's former glory. Walking here is like stepping back into "One Thousand and One Nights," a fairytale land right at your feet.
Life is always full of regrets, like the sunrise at Khiva, the pilaf and sunset at Bukhara, the 24-hour limit at Samarkand, and Tashkent, which I didn't even get to see...
But regret is also a strong reason to return. Maybe next time you go, it will no longer be a regret, but a surprise? Just like this unknown world, surprises will only appear as long as you keep going!
Finally, I am grateful for all the people and everything I met during this trip to Central Asia. I believe that time and space will intertwine again, and that will be the time when we meet again!
