Yangzhou is already beautiful—until you visit Gaoyou, the town immortalized by Wang Zengqi
by ADDYSON MULLINS
Jun 1, 2025
Why Gaoyou?
This Jianghuai town, "marinated to perfection" in Wang Zengqi's prose, boasts the 7,000-year-old Longqiuzhuang ruins but made its name with oily double-yolk salted duck eggs! Here, the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal embraces Gaoyou Lake, creating the "Canal-on-Lake" wonder. The poetry stele of Qin Guan still stands fresh at Wenyou Terrace, while the Tang Dynasty bricks of Zhenguo Temple Pagoda have witnessed millennia of fishing lights—holding the scalding "Wang-style tofu" in one hand and the crimson sun of salted duck eggs in the other, this town slow-drips to the rhythm of lapping water, curing itself into amber light.
One Town, One Lake, One Relay Station
📍 Old Town Time Capsule (Walking + Tricycle from ¥5)
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Wang Zengqi Memorial Hall
🕒 9:00-17:00 | 🎫 Free (Closed Mondays)
📖 Light-shadow corridors recreate scenes from *The Love Story of a Monk*; rooftop views of old-town rooftops like steamer cloth
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Ancient Wenyou Terrace
🕒 8:30-17:00 | 🎫 ¥30
🖋️ Where Su Dongpo and Qin Guan drank together; climb to watch canal barges move like toy blocks
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Yucheng Relay Station (China's last surviving Ming Dynasty courier station)
🕒 8:30-17:30 | 🎫 ¥25
📜 Feed horses at the Stone Trough of Horse God Temple; admire the 8-meter lacquer engraving *Rhymes of the Courier Road* in Huanghua Hall
🌅 Lake & Canal Symphony
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Zhenguo Temple Pagoda
🕒 Open all day | 🎫 Free
📸 Tang Dynasty square pagoda on a lake island; sunset splits golden-red waves with its shadow
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Gaoyou Lake Wild Beach (📍 Mapeng East Lake)
🚗 ¥15 taxi from downtown | 🎫 Free
🌾 June turns reed marshes into green mazes; rent a boat to hunt duck eggs (¥20/person)
🎑 Hidden Gems
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Longqiuzhuang Ruins
🕒 9:00-16:30 | 🎫 ¥35
🦴 See 4,000-year-old carbonized rice; pottery markings may predate oracle bones by a millennium
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Jieshou Reed Marsh Railway
📍 Jieshou Town riverbank | 🚂 Abandoned coal line
🌄 Sunset gilds the sleepers; snap *Kikujiro's Summer*-style photos
Wang's Culinary Decoder
🌞 Gaoyou Slow Morning
👉 Yangchun noodles + Pu-pork: Jiao’s Alley Noodles (explosive lard aroma, thinly sliced grass-smoked meat)
👉 Crab roast pork buns: Beihai Teahouse (steam-basket reveals crab oil soaking the folds)
👉 Pepper Wang-style tofu: Wang Sisters (duck blood + tofu + liver in thick sauce, topped with fresh-ground white pepper)
🦆 Salted Egg Kingdom
❗ Trust *Red Sun* brand: South Gate Egg Shop (vacuum-packed, yolks creamy like cheese)
🍳 Ultimate runny-yolk hack: Bury egg in congee | Wrap in sticky rice and fry
🥚 Dark Easter eggs: Drunken eggs (rice wine-soaked) | Salted yolk stir-fried stinky tofu
🌿 Lake Delicacies
▪ Eel noodles: Zhou’s (wild eel, milky broth)
▪ Snowflake tofu soup: Old Fuchun (crucian carp base, tofu shredded 30,000 times!)
▪ Water chestnut shoots: West Lake boat cuisine (tender stems with river shrimp, June-only)
⏱ Classic Speedrun Route
Yucheng Relay Station at dawn → Wang Zengqi Memorial → Wenyou Terrace noon views → Zhenguo Pagoda sunset → West Dike beer-and-duck feast
Local Pro Tips
⚠️ Traps to avoid:
- Don’t buy salted eggs at tourist spots! Stick to *Red Sun* or *Sanhu* brands (authentic at South Gate Street shops)
- Zhenguo Pagoda climbs only on 1st/15th lunar days, but lakeside paths always open
🚲 Transport hacks:
- Rent e-scooters (¥2/20min) to hunt Wang’s famed "Eight-Thousand-Year" oven cakes in alleys
- For "Gaoyou Lake sunset," navigate to 📍 Guoji Reed Marsh—wear rain boots!
🥄 Secret rituals:
❗ Pair Wang tofu with Gaoyou white liquor | Crush yolk into lard rice
❗ West Dike stalls code: "Half duck with giblets, extra gravy!"
🔑 Ultimate truth: Live like Wang’s badger—
Dawn at the canal waiting for diving ducks, noon counting moss in Yucheng’s ancient bricks, dusk crouching at Zhenguo Pier with a salted egg.
Watch the pagoda pierce the yolk-like sun, spilling oily gold into the canal, till the whole town becomes a glowing eggshell.
Post by ADDYSON MULLINS | Jun 1, 2025












