Samurai Sunsets: My Return to Obi Castle, Miyazaki

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There’s a kind of magic in returning to a place that time seems to have held gently. Obi Castle (飫肥城), nestled in the lush, subtropical hills of Miyazaki Prefecture, is one of those places. With its quiet stone walls, samurai residences, and fragrant citrus groves, my second visit felt like stepping back into a whispered history—one I now knew how to listen to.

My Solo Itinerary (Encore Edition):

· Morning – Stone Paths & Silent Stories: I arrived as the gates opened, walking the same flagstone paths shaded by ancient trees. This time, I lingered longer in the Obi Castle Ruins, noticing the way moss clung to the ishigaki (stone walls) and how the morning light fell through the cedar branches. Revisited the restored Honmaru Goten (main palace), admiring the tatami rooms and sliding screens with a deeper appreciation.
· Afternoon – Citrus & Craftsmanship: Explored the preserved samurai district more intentionally, peeking into workshops where local artisans carve wooden kokeshi dolls or make washi paper. Tasted fresh dekopon (a sweet local citrus) at a streetside stall and picnicked in the garden of Shimizu Nojo, a former samurai home.
· Evening – Golden Hour & River Walks: Climbed to the viewing platform above the castle as the sun began to set, painting the tile roofs and distant Nichinan coast in warm gold. Wandered along the Obi River, where lanterns began to glow and the evening air carried the scent of flowers and salt from the sea.

Why Obi Castle is Even Better the Second Time:

· Beyond the Guidebook: I discovered small shrines tucked behind walls, spoke with a volunteer guide who shared stories of the Ito clan, and found a tiny teahouse serving matcha and manjū (sweet buns) near the castle gate.
· Seasonal Secrets: I returned in early summer—hydrangeas bloomed violet and blue along the paths, and the heat was softened by ocean breezes.
· Deeper Connection: I recognized the woman sweeping the steps of a merchant house, and she nodded—a silent welcome back.

Obi isn’t just a castle; it’s a living postcard from the Edo period. And returning alone lets you hear its stories more clearly.

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