If you come to Taiyuan and don't visit the Twin Pagoda Temple, aren't you confused?
by PAUL WEBSTER
May 25, 2024
6:30 AM: Dive into Taoyuan Erxiang alley at dawn and join the queue of elders for Old Liu's glutinous millet oil cakes—freshly fried sweetness paired with "Tounao" soup (don't grimace—it’s a Taiyuan breakfast staple coded in local DNA).
9:00 AM: Twin Pagodas Temple Early-Bird Hack
Beat the tour groups to climb the Lingxiao Twin Pagodas! Steep steps? Worth it. When the east pagoda opens, ascend to the 13th floor for a panoramic view. Morning breezes whisper through brick-carved *queti* brackets, revealing the true solitude of Jin Yang’s famed "Twin Pagodas Piercing the Sky."
Noon: Escape into a Bronze Universe
The Shang-Zhou Bronze Gallery at Shanxi Museum is always the chilliest (literally). Spend 10 minutes mesmerized by the flowing feather patterns on the Bird Zun vessel under the lights—*bring a jacket!* Artifacts get VIP treatment: a constant 20°C.
3:00 PM: Old Town Alley Revival Project
Skip Food Street; wander Xiaoweiying Hutong instead:
👉 Barber shop windows advertise "Shave: ¥5"
👉 A seamstress adjusts hems on her peony-painted sewing machine
👉 Chess battles rage under tree shade
Raise your phone? Elders chuckle: "Why snap pics of these old walls?"
Dinner Showdown: Lao Junying Neighborhood
The holy land for local foodies:
🔥 Ziran Valley fried skewers with sweet-sour pepper powder (¥15/stuffed)
🔥 Zhang Na’s mung bean cakes—crispy skin, molten filling (grab the hawthorn flavor!)
🔥 Spicy noodle shops hide god-tier *wantuo* (sliced buckwheat jelly)—doused in garlic vinegar chili oil
8:30 PM: Freedom on Fen River Breezes
Rent a bike under Nanneihuan Bridge and glide north along Fen River Park. Skyscraper neon bleeds into ink-black water as willow leaves brush your cheeks—a rare moment of humidity in Taiyuan.
Sleep Strategically:
✅ Bingzhou Hotel West Wing (¥200+/Soviet-era charm)
✅ Changfeng Street metro hotels (late-night snack access)
Hidden Easter Eggs:
→ Pure Yang Palace Stele Corridor: Trace your nail over Tang Dynasty *Jinci Inscription* rubbings—Li Shimin’s calligraphy grooves
→ Shanxi Archaeology Museum: Weekend bronze restoration demos—watch masters glue fragments with handmade fish glue
The True Measure of Local Life:
Here, time is measured by vinegar fermentation, kindness lives in calloused hands offering noodle broth. Don’t rush—pause under the locust tree, where sunlight warms a stone lion’s back.
Post by Matthew#Cooper93 | Jul 31, 2025














