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[Kurehayama (①The back that tells the story of folk art and history)] (Toyama City, Toyama Prefecture, former province name: Etchu)



It is said that the prototype of the current Toyama city was built during the Sengoku period, when the Jinbo clan, who served as the deputy governor of Ecchu (present-day Toyama Prefecture), moved east from their base in Hojozu (present-day Imizu City) to establish a base. The Jinbo clan built Toyama Castle to counter the Shiina clan in central Ecchu, based in Uozu, and Uesugi Kenshin of Echigo Province (present-day Niigata Prefecture), who boasted a powerful influence behind them. They built the castle on the plains surrounded by the Joganji River to the east and the Jinzu River to the west, and established a defensive line that made use of the natural terrain. Looking down on the Jinzu River, a series of gentle hills can be seen on the west bank, running parallel to each other as they head towards Toyama Bay. These hills are the Kureha Hills, and the mountain rivers that run across them have not only strengthened Toyama's defenses, but also created an incredibly beautiful natural landscape. In addition, the names "Kureha" and "Kureha" used to divide Toyama Prefecture into regions refer to the east and west sides of the Kureha Hills, and it is easy to see that for people who have lived in Toyama Prefecture since ancient times, these hills have an extraordinary presence that seems to represent a division of their lives.

The mountain on the middle slope of the Kureha Hills is called Mount Kureha, and it is a scenic spot that has a place of scenic beauty that is remembered in Etchu's national history and as a tourist resource today. In 1585 during the Azuchi-Momoyama period, Hideyoshi Hashiba, who had taken control of the Kinai region and was on a quest to unify the country, besieged Sassa Narimasa (1536-1588) of Toyama, who was stubbornly resisting. Seeing the overwhelming difference in military strength, Narimasa gave up resistance, opened Toyama Castle, climbed Mount Kureha, shaved his head there and surrendered to Hideyoshi. This historic site still remains in the mountains, and tells the story of the end of an era when Etchu Province's "independence" was at its strongest.

Due to the above-mentioned circumstances, Mount Kureha was strongly associated with historical sites and scenic spots, but today it has a unique presence that forms a cultural sphere. The basis for this is the "Toyama Citizens' Folk Crafts Village" (photos 2-7), which refers to the series of cultural facilities that have been opened in succession in the mountains since 1965. Toyama is known as one of the bases of the Mingei Movement, triggered by the evacuation of Munakata Shiko (1903-1975, printmaker born in Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture) during the war. Based on this spiritual climate, Mingei Village was established with museums themed on Toyama culture such as selling medicine and pottery. Many of the museums are old houses built in the Edo or Meiji period, and you can see the beauty of utility in the unique colors used under the deep shadows.

Leaving Mingei Village and climbing up the gentle slope, you will reach the grounds of Chokei-ji Temple (Photo 1, 8th to 10th). Chokei-ji Temple is a Soto Zen temple that was invited to Mt. Kureha during the Edo period, and its temple buildings are arranged to line the southeastern foot of the mountain. One of the famous sights is the "Five Hundred Arhats." The Buddhas are lined up in an orderly fashion on the slope, almost like a tiered platform, and although they have gentle expressions, they are obscured by the shadows of the trees and give off a somewhat lonely vibe. All of the stone Buddhas were carved during the Edo period, and it is said that a Kitamae-bune merchant named Kuromakiya Zenjiro had them all carved in Sado Province (now Sado Island in Niigata Prefecture) and transported across the Sea of Japan to Mount Kureha. The grandiose wish is astonishing, but the way the Buddhas exude a modest yet striking presence as a group gives the impression of a "theatrical performance" that goes beyond the Buddha's simple heart. The highlight of this is the view of Toyama city and the Tateyama mountain range that unfolds before the Buddhas' eyes. As cherry blossom petals drift in the warm spring breeze, the sight of the snow-capped mountain range towering beneath the clear blue sky is no exaggeration to say it is the most beautiful sight in Etchu, and it is not at all difficult to project onto the Buddhas looking out at it in the distance the feelings of the many people who have looked up to and worshipped the mountain in this area since ancient times.

Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★★ (You can explore to your heart's content. It's practically a private venue!)

Visit date: Around 13:00 on the second weekday of April

Access: About 20 minutes by car from Toyama Nishi IC

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Post by hanakin_kozakura | Sep 1, 2024

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