Veliko Tarnovo: A city that has been reborn many times

⛪️ Green Dome Cathedral
“The soaring dome is a symbol of the rebirth of Veliko Tarnovo in the 19th and 20th centuries and the revival of Veliko Tarnovo.”

As we stand atop the highest walls of the Tsarevets Fortress and gaze out, Veliko Tarnovo slowly unfolds into a panoramic view, surrounded by mountains and the Yantra River meandering around it. What emerges is not just a landscape, but a layering of time—past and present, still breathing in unison.

From above, a stone bridge spans the river, connecting the two sides of the city. Rows of red-roofed houses line the banks, some dating back centuries, others newly constructed, all blending seamlessly into the landscape shaped by the water. Nearby, a small stone church, its dome and bell tower firmly rising above the houses, remains the center of the community, as if to say that the faith has not faded. Looking further down the bridge, we see the details of the solidly stacked stones, proclaiming that the city was built to withstand the test of time. As our gaze travels to the center, The cathedral's green-blue dome stands out against the surrounding red-tiled roofs, symbolizing the city's rebirth in the 19th and 20th centuries, when Veliko Tarnovo reclaimed its role as Bulgaria's cultural and political center.

But this image, when layered with history, has a deeper meaning. In the 12th and 14th centuries, the Tsarevets Fortress served as the heart of the Second Bulgarian Empire, housing kings, nobles, and the clergy. The towering stone walls and surrounding cliffs served as natural armor, reinforced by towers and weapons of war. Whoever occupied the hill held both political and religious power. However, with the Ottoman invasion in the 14th century, the grandeur collapsed, leaving the fortress, once a symbol of power, to be seen in stone ruins by later generations.

Today, Tsarevets has been rebuilt as a historical monument. The church within the fortress is no longer used for ceremonies, but instead serves as a space for stories of decline and rebirth. The dark frescoes depict not saints but the nation's glory and loss. Beneath the ancient walls, Veliko Tarnovo still radiates life. Rows of white houses with red roofs, restaurants, streets, and markets still bustle along the paths that cross ancient stone bridges, demonstrating how modernity can coexist harmoniously with the ancient.

The city is thus never dead, but rather transformed over time—once a royal capital, once a deserted city after conquest, and now, revitalized beneath the shadow of its original stone walls. The cool light cast by the walls on the red-roofed houses silently tells us that Veliko Tarnovo still breathes in sync with the Yantra River that has surrounded it for centuries. And when we look out from the walls of Tsarevets, what we see is not just a city, but a “journey through time”—from prosperity, to ruin, and to rebirth.

#Bulgaria #VelikoTarnovo #Tsarevets #EasternEurope #TravelEurope #History

Post by Mr. Choon | Oct 4, 2025