Vacation in the secluded mountains! 3 days of watching morning mist and eating farmhouse dishes, so comfortable you won’t want to leave

Previously, whenever I went to Dali, I always got a headache from the crowds in the ancient town. This time, a local friend recommended Jiuwei Mountain, calling it a "hidden treasure" in the Yailao Mountain range. I went with a try-it-out attitude and ended up totally hooked! Over 3 days, I barely saw any tourists—just pristine mountain scenery. The cost per person was less than 1800 RMB, which is 10 times more comfortable than crowded Dali!

On the first day, I drove from downtown Dali, taking nearly 2 hours on winding mountain roads. The deeper into the mountains, the fresher the air became. The last stretch was lined with towering ancient trees, sunlight filtering through the leaves, casting dappled light that made my eyes feel soft. I stayed at a Yi ethnic farmhouse at the foot of the mountain. The owner couple was very genuine—200 RMB a night including breakfast. The room window faced the forest, and I was woken up by birdsong, not an alarm clock! In the afternoon, I followed the owner for a hike in the primeval forest behind the mountain. There were no proper paths, just walking on fallen leaves, soft underfoot like a carpet. The most amazing part was the moss covering the forest floor, thick enough to cover my ankles, wet and slippery to the touch, with a fresh sweet scent. We came across a small stream; the water was so cold it stung my hands. The owner said it was drinkable straight from the source. I tried a sip—it was even sweeter than bottled mineral water! In the evening, sitting in the courtyard watching the clouds by the mountain slowly turn pink and purple, with the scent of pine needles in the breeze—this is what a vacation should be!

On the second day, I got up early to see the terraced fields in Leqiu Township with the owner. I didn’t have high expectations, but when we reached the mountaintop, I was stunned—the morning mist wrapped around the terraces, layer upon layer stretching down the slope. As the sun rose, the mist gradually dispersed, and the water droplets on the ridges sparkled like scattered silver. The best part—there was no one else! Just me and the owner, free to take photos however we wanted, no fighting for spots. At noon, we ate farmhouse dishes in the village. The cured meat was smoked by the owner’s family, fatty but not greasy. The stir-fried bracken was crisp, and mixed with brown rice, I ate two big bowls. In the afternoon, we visited a nearby ancient Yi village. The houses were all made of adobe walls with thatched roofs, and the stone paths were polished shiny from foot traffic. The village was very quiet, with only elderly people sitting at their doorsteps drying corn. They smiled and offered us bitter buckwheat tea. The tea was a bit bitter but left a sweet feeling in the throat after swallowing.

On the third day, we didn’t go far, just wandered around near the farmhouse. The owner took us to see wild rhododendrons behind the mountain. Although it wasn’t the flowering season, the green shrubs covering the slope were very soothing. In the afternoon, we went to the village convenience store to buy souvenirs. Buckwheat cakes were only 5 RMB each, much cheaper than in tourist spots. We also bought a jar of honey; the owner said it was collected by wild mountain bees. I brewed some at home, and it really had a floral fragrance.

Leaving was really hard. Jiuwei Mountain doesn’t have the hustle and bustle of Dali, but it has a magic that calms you down—no hawking, only the sounds of wind, birds, and streams. Even breathing feels smooth. If you want to escape the crowds and find a place to "catch your breath," trust me, Jiuwei Mountain is definitely the right choice!

Post by ALAINA ORTEGA | Oct 22, 2025